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« 


THE  UNIVERSITY 


OF  ILLINOIS 


:/ 


m 


* 


t 


LIBRARY 

an. 7 


IILINOIS  HISTORICAL  SURVEY 


T^T^i^-'. 


**■  ...  >^ 


^.^ 


^y 


JAMES' 


K  I  V  E  R    GUIDE: 


CONTAINING 


DESCKIPTIONS  OF  ALL  THE  CITIES,  TOWNS,  AND 
PEINCIPAL  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST, 

ON  THE  NAVIGABLE  TITERS  OF  THE 

MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY, 


FLOWING    WEST    FROM    THE    ALLEOnANY    MOUNTAINS,    EAST    FROM    THE    ROCKY 

MOUNTAINS,  AND  SOUTH  FROM  NEAR  THE  NORTHERN  LAKES,  INCLUDING  THE 

RIVERS  OF  ALABAMA  AND  TEXAS,  FLOWING  INTO  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO  : 

ALSO,  AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  RIVERS; 

,  WITH 

FULL  TABLES  OF  DISTANCES, 

AND     MANY     INTERESTING 

HISTORICAL  SKETCHES  OF  THE  COUNTRY, 


STATISTICS    OF    POPULATION,   PRODUCTS,    COJIMERCE,    MANUFACTtTRES,  MINERAL    BB- 

SOURCES,  Scenery,  &c.,  &c. 


ILLUSTRATED    WITH   FORTY-FOUS    MAPS, 
AND  A  NUMBER  OF  ENGRAVINGS. 


^"'  t.  CINCINNATI: 

PUBLISHED    BY    U.    P.    JAMES. 

'*  167   WALNUT    STREET. 


1857. 


PUBLISIIEE^S    NOTICE. 


The  former  edition  of  the  River  Guide,  published  under  the  name  of 
"  Conclms  New  River  Guide,"  is  embodied  in  this  edition  so  far  as  it 
suits  the  present  time.  The  work  has  been  tliorouglily  revised  and  cor- 
rected, very  much  enlarged,  in  amount  of  matter,  and  brought  down  to 
the  latest  date.  It  is  confidently  believed  that  the  book  is  now  as  com- 
plete and  accurate  as  it  is  possible  to  make  a  work  of  this  character. 

To  the  traveler  on  the  Western  Waters  desiring  correct  information 
respecting  the  Rivers,  Towns,  Products  and  Resources  of  the  country,  it 
will  prove  an  invaluable  companion. 


ABBREVIATIONS  USED   IN   THIS   WORK. 


Ala.  stands  for  Alabama. 


Ark. 

li 

Arkansas. 

CO. 

cc 

county. 

lo. 

(( 

Iowa. 

la. 

ii 

Indiana. 

111. 

cc 

Illinois. 

Kan. 

(C 

Kansas. 

Kj. 

cc 

Kentucky 

La. 

•       CI 

Louisiana. 

Min.  or  Minn.    Minnesota. 


Mo. 

stands  for  Missouri. 

Miss. 

cc 

Mississippi. 

Neb. 

a 

Nebraska. 

0. 

It 

Ohio. 

Pa. 

u 

Pennsylvania 

pop. 

u 

population. 

R.or 

Riv. 

(C 

River. 

Tenn 

cc 

Tennessee. 

Va. 

11 

Virginia. 

Wis. 

(i 

Wisconsin. 

Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856, 

By   U.   p.    JAMES, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern  District  of  Ohio. 


TABLES   OF  DISTANCES. 


The  jniSSISSIPPl 


RIV£R,  from  Fort 
ITIexico. 


Kipley  to   the  Guif   oi 


PLACES. 


From  I'lace'  Whole 
to   Place,   dintance 


Fort  Ripley,  Min.... 

Swan  River,  Min , 

Sauk  Rapids,  Miu.... 

Benton.  Min , 

Itasca,  Min 

Rum  River,  Min 

Manomin,  Min 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony) 
Minneapolis,  Min...  | 
Fort  Snelling,  Min.  1 
St.  Peter's  River,M.  [ 

Mendota,  Min J 

St.  Paul.  Min 

Red  Rock,  Min 

Hastings,  Min 

Vermilion  Riv.  Min. 
Point  Douglas,  Min  "| 

St.  Croix  River - 

Pre^cott,  Wis J 

Red  Wing,  Miu....  ) 

Lake  Pepin j 

Kansas,  Wis 

Chippewa  River,  Wis. 

Wabashaw,  Min 

Fountain  City,  Wis... 
Trempaleau  R,.Wis. 
Minnesota  City,  M. 
Montoville,  Wis.... 
Black  River.  Wis.. 
Rising  Sun,  Min... 

Brooklyn,  Min 

La  Crosse,  Wis 

Hokah  River,  Min 
Brownsville,  Min... 
Racoon  River,  Wis 
Bad  Axe  River,  Wis. 

Battlefield,  Wis 

Lansing,  lo 

Lynxviile,  Wis ] 

Wexford.  lo [ 

Prairie  Du  Chien,  W, 
Fort  Crawford,  Wis.., 
Wisconsin  Riv.,  Wis 

Cincinnati,  Wis ] 

Kilroy,  lo j 

Clayton,  lo, 

Mendota,  Wis 

Guttenburg,  lo 

Cassville,  Wis 

Turkey  River,  lo. 

Frankford,  lo 

Buena  Vista,  lo... 

Potosi,  Wis 

"Peru,  lo 

Sinapee,  Wis 

Jamestown,  Wis 

Dubuque,  lo | 

Dunleith,  111 j 

Fevre  River,  111 

Moselle,  111 1 

Bellevue,  lo J 

Makoqueta  River,  lo. 
Portsmouth,  111 


Milm.     Milrs. 


IS 
28 

9 
40 
10 
10 


10 
3 


18 

25 

1 

10 

15 

10 


18 
•16 
55 
95 
105 
115 

124 

132 

138 
145 
155 
158 

1G3 

ISl 

206 
207 
217 
232 

242 


5 

247 

8 

255 

4 

259 

2 

201 

2 

263 

3 

266 

6 

271 

5 

276 

6 

282 

2 

2.S4 

15 

299 

8 

.307 

10 

317 

1 

31 S 

3 

321 

7 

328 

2 

330 

7 

337 

5 

342 

G 

348 

5 

353 

12 

3G5 

7 

372 

2 

374 

1 

375 

5 

380 

15 

395 

6 

401 

8 

409 

5 

414 

PLACES. 


From  Plnc^    Whnlc 
to  PlBcc.  ilibtauci 


Savannah,  111 

Sabula,  lo 

Lvons,  lo I 

Fulton  City,  lo J 

Albany,  111 I 

Camanche,  lo j 

Wapsipinecon  R.,  lo 

Cordova,  III 

Princeton,  lo 

Parkhurst,  lo 

Port  Byron,  111 

Le  Claire,  lo 

Hampton,  111 

Davenport,  lo 
Rock  Island... 

Moline.  Ill 

Rock  Island  City,  111 

Rock  River,  111 

Buffalo,  lo \ 

Andalusia,  111 J 

Iowa,  lo 

Fairport,  lo , 

Muscatine,  lo 

Port  Louisa,  lo 

New  Boston,  III... 

Iowa  River,  lo 

Keithsburg,  111.... 

Huron,  lo 

Oquawka,  IJl 

Burlington,  lo 

Skunk  Paver,  lo... 

Pontoosue,  111 

Appanoose,  111 

Fort  Madison,  lo.. 

Nauvoo,  111 

Montrose,  lo 

Nashville,  lo 

Montebello,  111 

Keokuk,  lo 

Hamilton  City,  111.  j 

Warsaw,  111 

Des  Moines  R.,  lo 

Fox  River,  Mo , 

Des  Moines  City,  Mo 

Tully,  Mo 

Lagrange.  Mo 

Quincy,  III ) 

Fabin's  River,  Mo.  J 
Marion  City,  Mo... 

Aston,  111 

Booneville,  111 

Hannibal,  Mo 

Dayton,  111 

Saverton,  Mo 

Salt  River,  Mo 

Louisiana,  Mo 

Clarksville,  Mo 

Hamburg,  111 

Gilead,  111 

Riv  iere  au  Cui  vre,  Mo 

Deer  Plain,  Mo 

Illinois  River,  111 
Crafton,  111 


Mll»      MiJei. 


J 


4 
15 


7 
4 
1 
5 
1 
1 
5 

12 

3 

2 


7 

6 

16 

10 

7 
9 
10 
15 
8 
7 
5 
3 


2 

6 

12 

G 

12 


422 
426 

441 

448 

455 
459 
460 
465 
466 
467 
472 

484 

487 
489 

494 

502 
609 
515 
531 

541 

548 
557 
5G7 
582 
590 
597 
602 
605 

613 

617 
623 

627 

531 

633 
639 
651 
657 

6G9 

676 

679 

686 

694 
712 
714 

726 
741 
750 
765 
777 

783 


PLACES. 


From   Place 
to  Flare. 


>:;::} 


Portages  des  Sioux, M. 

Randolph,  111 

Alton,  111 

Missouri  River,  Mo 

Chippewa,  111 

Madison,  111 , 

Venice,  111 , 

Bremen,  Mo 

ST.  LOUIS,  Mo.... 
Illinoistown,  111 
Cahokia,  111. 

Caroudalet,  Mo 

Jefferson  Biirracks.M. 
Maramec  River,  Mo.. 

Clifton,  Mo 

Harrisonvillo,  111 

Herculaueum.  Mo 

Plattin  Rock,  Mo 

Selma,  Mo 

Rush  Tower,  Mo 

Fort  Cbartres,  111 

St.  Genevieve,  Mo.... 
St.  Mary's  Landing... 
Pratt's  Landing,  Mo. 
Kaskaskia  River,  111. 

Chester,  111 

Mary's  River.  Ill 

P'lrt  Perry,  Mo 

Libertj',  111 

Wittemberg,  Mo 

Devil's  Bake  Oven 

Grand  Tower 

Breesevillo,  111 

Muddy  River,  111 

Birmingham.  Mo...  1 
Union  Point,  111....  / 
Devil's  Tea  Table  I 
and  Cornice  Rocks  J 
Bainbridge.  Mo, 
Hamburg,  111.... 
Cape  Girardeau,  Mo 

Thebes,  111 ] 

New  York,  Mo j 

Commerce,  Mo 

New  Philadelphia,  M. 

Ohio  City,  Mo 

Cairo,  111 

MOUTH  OF  OHIO 

RIVER I 

I.-land  No.  1 ] 

Norfolk,  Mo I 

Beekwith's,  Mo 

Baldwinsville,  Mo... 

Columbus.  Ky 

Hickman,  Ky 

New  Madrid,  Mo 

Point  Pleasant,  Mo.. 
Riddle's  Point,  Mo.. 

Walker's  Bend 

Little  Prairie,  Mo... 
Needham's  Cut-off 
Obion  River,  Tenn, 
Hale's  Point 


4 
1 
5 
9 

10 
2 
2 
1 
2 
4 
9 

11 

10 
2 
3 
1 
4 
3 
4 

17 
5 
1 
2 
4 


3 

6 

10 

9 

3 

7 

21 


5 

4 

20 

44 


Whom 

(liKtano 


Milatt. 


19S736 


[^Continued  oji  next  page 


790 
794 
801 
806 
807 
809 
817 
819 

823 

827 
828 
833 
842 
852 
854 
856 
857 
859 
863 
872 
883 
893 
895 
898 
899 
903 
906 
910 
927 
932 
933 
935 
939 

P43 


94S 
952 
962 
971 

974 

981 

1002 

1008 

1015 
1020 
1024 
1044 
1088 
1095 
1098 
1116 
1123 

1147 
] 


TABLES    OF  DISTA NC E S.— Continued. 


PLACES. 


Kroni  Pl»c<! 
I       to  Pl(U-e. 


Whole 
dintuuri 


Misi'i  River  Cont'd. 
BearBeld  Landing,  A. 
Forked  ])eer  R.,  Ten. 

Ashport,  Tenu 

Osceolii,  Ark 1 

Plum  Point J 

1st  Chickiisaw  Bluff,  T 

Fulton,  Tenn 

llatchee  Riv.,  Ton.  ) 
Ptiindolph,  Tenn...  J 

Pecun  Point,  Ark 

Sd  Chickasaw  Bluff,  T 

Greenock,  Ark 

Mound  City,  Ark 

Wolf  River,  Tenn..  ) 
Memphis,  Tenn....  j 

Pickering,   Tenn 

(Jrayson,  Ark 

Norfolk.  Miss 

Blue's  Point,  Ark 

Commerce,  Miss 

Austin,  Miss 

St.  Francis  River...  ) 

Sterling,  Ark j 

Helena,  Ark 

Yazoo  Pass,  Miss...  \ 

Delta,  Miss j 

Frier's  Point,  Miss. 
Horseshoe  Bend  <fc 

Cut-off. 

Old  Town,  Ark 

Barney's,  Ark 

Concordia,  Miss 

Montgomery'sPoint) 

Victoria,  Miss J 

WMte  Eiver,  Ark.. 
Arkansas  Biver... ) 

Napoleon,  Ark J 

Bolivia,  Miss 

Oaines'  Landing,  Ark 

Columbia,  Ark 

Point  Chicot,  Ark.... 

Greenville,  Miss 

WorthingtonLand-  ) 
iug.  Miss J 

Grand  Lake  Land-  ) 
ing,  Ark j 

Princeton,  Miss 

Buncho's  Bend  and  I 
Cut-off J 

Providence,  La 

Tallalula,  Miss 

Tompkinsville,  La.... 

Brunswick     Laud- ) 
ing.  Miss J 

Campbellsvillo,  La... 

^[ilUkinsville,  La 

Young's  Point,  Iia.  ] 

Yazoo  River,  Miss,  j 

"Walnut  Hills,  Miss... 

Vicksburgli,  Miss.... 

AVarrcntown,  Miss 

Palmyra  Set.,  Miss,  ) 

New  Carthago,  La.  j 

Point  Pleasant,  La... 

Big  Black  Riv.  Miss, 

Grand  Gulf,  Miss 


2 
4 
2 

12 


4 

10 

10 
10 

27 
12 

8 

2 

6 
2 
18 
2 
6 

20 

10 

8 


3 
10 
30 


1149 
115;> 
1155 

1167 

1173 
1177 

1187 

1197 
1207 
1234 
1246 

1254 

1256 
1262 
1264 
1282 
1284 
1290 

1310 

1320 

1328 

1334 

1.337 
1347 
1377 

10   1387 


PLACES. 


From  riacc    Wkole  I 
to  Place    oittsncsi 


Bayou  Pierre,  Miss.  ] 
Bruinsburgh,  Miss,  j 
St  Joseph,  La 


4 

16 

13 

35 

18 

4 

4 

22 


4 

10 

19 

5 

10 

14 

10 
2 


10 

2 

10 

15 

10 
14 

2 

10 
6 


1391 

1407 

1420 
1455 
1473 
1477 
1481 

1503 

1509 

1513 

1523 

1542 
1547 
1557 

1571 

1581 
1583 

1589 

1599 
1001 
1611 

1626 

1636 
1650 
1052 

1662 

1668 


MinD'i  Jiiver  Cont'd. 

Rodney,  Miss 

Natchez,  Miss ) 

Vidalia,  La j 

Ellis'  Cliffs,  JViiss 

Union  Point,  La 

Ilomochitto  R.  Miss.. 

Port  Adams,  Miss 

Red  River,  La 

Red    River   Island 

and   Cut-off. 

Red  R.  Landing,  La 
Raccourci   Bend  and 

Cut-ofl". 

Tunica  Bend 

Ba3-ou  Sara,  La.... 
St.  Francisville.  La 
Point  Cuupeo,  La... 

Waterloo,  La 

Thompson's  Cr'k,  La. 

Port  Hudson,  La , 

Thomas'  Point 

Baton  Rouge,  La...  1 
W.  Baton  Rouge,  L  j 

Manchac,  La ) 

Manchac  Bayou j 

Bayou  Plaquemine,  \ 
Plaquemine,  La —  J 

Iberville,  La 

Bayou  Goule,  La 


Miles.    Milia. 


Bayou  La  Fourche,  | 
Donaldsonville,  La.  j 
Jefferson  College,  La. 

Bonnet  Carre,  La 

Red  Church,  La 

Carrollton,  La 

Lafayette  City,  La.... 

NEW  ORLEANS 

Battle  Ground,  La... 
Ducro's  Lauding,  La 
Fort  St.  Leon,  La.. 
English  Turn,  La.. 
Forts  St.  Philip  &  ) 

.lackson.  La J 

Mouths  of  the  Mis-  ) 
sissippi J 


ALABAMA  RIVER, 

From  Montgomery   to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Montgomery,  Ala.... 

Washington,  Ala 

Lowndesport,  Ala 

Vernon,  Ala 

Miller's  Ferry,  Ala... 

Benton,  Ala 

Selma,  Ala 

Cahawba,  Ala 

Elm  Bluff,  Ala 

Portland,  Ala 

Bridgeport,  Ala 

Canton,  Ala 

Prairie  Bluff,  Ala 

1  Upper  Peach  Tree  ) 

j      Landing,  Ala j 

;  Black  Bluff  Land-  | 

ing,  Ala., J 

Lower  Peach  Tree  ) 
I   Landing,  Ala.....  j 


4 

41 

18 

3 

23 

10 

11 


4 
6 

24 

5 
5 
1 

13 

12 
15 


10 
10 

14 

16 

24 

16 

19 

5 

2 

6 

6 

5 

55 
30 


1672 

1713 

1731 
1734 
1757 
1767 

1778 

1784 

1788 
1794 

ISIS 

1823 
1828 
1829 
1842 

1854 
1869 

1877 

1887 
1897 

1911 

1927 
1951 
1967 
1986 
1991 
1993 
1999 
2005 

2010 
"005 
2095 


PLACES. 


From   Place 
to   Plic*. 


diataa* 


13 
10 

8 

9 
15 
26 
16 

5 
19 
16 

5 
10 

11 


13 
23 
31 
40 

55 
81 
97 
102 
121 
137 
142 
152 

163 
176 
18] 


Alabama  Ji.  Contin'd. 

Bell's  Landing,  Ala... 

Claiborne,  Ala 

Gosport,  Ala 

Gainestown,  Ala 

French's  Land'g,  Ala. 
James'  Landing,  Ala. 
Tombigbee  Riv.  Ala. 
Fort  St.  Philip,  Ala.. 

MOBILE,  Ala 

Gulf  of  Mexico 


ST.  PETERS  RIVER. 

From  South  Bend  Ci- 
ty to  the  3/ii)niiisippi. 

South  Bend  City,  M.. 

Mankato,  Miu  

St.  Peters,  Min 

Traverse  Des  Sioux  ) 
Min j 

Le  Sueur,  Min 

Henderson,  Min 

Chasca,  Min 

Carver,  Min 

Hennepin,  Miu 

Mouth  of  St.  Peters.. 


ST.  CROIX  RIVER, 

From  St.  Croix  Falli 
to  the  Missinsij/pi 
Jiiver. 

St.  Croi.\  Falls,  Wis.. 

Osceola,  Wis 

Marine  Mills,  Min.... 

Stillwater,  Min 

Hudson,  Wis ) 

Lake  St.  Cruix ) 

Mouth  of  St.  Croix... 


WISCONSIN  RIVER, 

From    Wau»au  to  the 
JliHsissippi  River. 

Wausau  ;     or    Big ) 
Bull  Falls.  AVis..  J 

Little  Bull  Falls,  W.. 

Stephen's  Point,  Wis. 

Plover,  Wis 

Portage  City,  Wis... 

Prairie  du  Sac,  Wis.. 

Kichhuul,  Wis 

Brooklyn,  AVis  

Mouth  of  Wisconsin 


16 

22 

7 

9 

8 

6 

40 

22 

22 

30 


8 

6 

34 

2 

10 

25 


9 

9 

15 

5 

16 


18 
28 

3 

115 

40 

45 

65 

7 


ROCK  RIVER, 

From  Wfttertown  to  the 
3Iis»isiippi  Rirer. 

Watertown,  Wis 

.Tefferson,  Wis. 16 

Fort  Atkinson,  Wis...  8 

Jancsvillo,  Wis 34 

Beloit,  Wis....  18 

Roscoe,  111 8 

Rockford,  111..  12 

Byron,  111 12 

Oregon,  111 10 

Dixon,  111 20 

f  Continued  an  next  jpage 


TABLES    OF  DI S T A  NCE S.— Continued. 


PLACES. 


IFrom  Plac«    Wkole 
lo  Plac*.  Idiiitaiicff, 


Hock  River  Contin'd. 

Sterling,  111 

Lyndon,  111 

Prophetetown,  111.. 

Erie,  111 

Camden,  111 

Mouth  of  Rock  River 


Mlln.     MiLei. 


IOWA  RIVER. 

From  Iowa  City  to  the 
Jfissiseippi  River. 

Iowa  City,  lo 

Port  Allen.  lo 

Concord,  lo 

Wapello.  In 

Mouth  of  Iowa 


DES  MOINES  RIVER, 

from  Ft.  Dca  Moines 
to  the  Mississippi. 

Fort  Des  Moines,  lo 

Dudley,  lo , 

Lafayette,  lo 

Bennington,  lo 

Red  Rock,  lo 

Amsterdam,  lo 

Bellefontaine,  lo  

Auburn,  lo 

Des  Moines  City,  lo 

Eddyviilc.  lo 

Chillicotlie,  lo 

Ottumwa,    lo 

lowaville,  lo ) 

New  Market J 

Portland,  lo 

Philadelphia,  lo 

Pittsburgh,  lo 

Keosauqua,  lo | 

Pleasant  Hill,  lo...  j 

I'ontonsport,  lo | 

Vernon,   lo J 

Bonaparte,  lo 

Fariiiington,  lo 

Black  Hawk,  Mo 

Croton,  lo 

Athens,  Mo 

Belfast,  lo 

Niagara,  Mo 

St.  Francisville,  Alo. 

Church ville.  Mo 

Mouth  of  the  Des  ) 
Moines J 


ILLINOIS  RIVER, 

from  Dresden  to  the 
Mississippi  River. 

Dresden,  111 

Morris,  III 

Clarkson.  Ill 

Marseilles,  III 

Ottowa,  111 

Utica,  111 

La  Salle,  111 

Peru,  111 

Hennepin,  111 ) 

West  Hennepin....  j 
Henry,  111 


12 
16 

2 

10 
.35 

1 


150 
166 
168 
178 
213 
214 


35 

45 
57 
80 


14 
19 
29 
45 
57 
69 
81 
89 
91 
99 
111 

131 

137 
145 
152 

157 

165 

170 
178 
181 
184 
189 
195 
200 
205 
219 

220 


10 
14 
31 

40 
50 
55 
67 

74 

87 


PLACES. 


From   Plftcej  Whole 
to   Pluce.  distance 


lUinoit  River  Cont'd. 

Lacon,  111 

Chillicothe,  111 I 

Peoria  Lake J 

Rome,  III 

Spring  Bay,  111., 

Detroit,  111 

Little  Detroit,  111 

Peoria,  111 

Wesley  City,  111 

Pekin,  111 

Liverpool,  111 

Havana,  111 

Bath,  111 

Sangamon  River 

Fredericksville,  111... 

Beardstown,   HI 

La  Grange,  111 

Meredosia,  111  

Naples,  111 

Florence,  111 

Montezuma,  111 

Bridgeport,  111 

Newport,  111 

Hardin,  111 

Guilford,  111 

Monterey,  111 

Mouth  of  the  Illinois 


MISSOURI  RIVER, 

From  the  Head  Wa- 
ters to  the  Miaiis- 
sippi  River. 

"Gates  of  the  Rocky) 
Mountains" J 

Great  Falls 

Mouth   of    Yellow  1 
Stone  River J 

Sioux  City,  lo 

Tekama,   Neb 

De  Soto,  Neb 

Fort  Calhoun,  Neb... 

Florence,   Nob 

Council  Bluff's  Ci 
ty,  lo 

Omaha  City,  Neb. 

Council  Point,  lo 

Trader's  Point,  lo 

Bellovue,  Neb 

St.   Mary's,  lo 

California  City,  lo.  ] 

Platte  Rivor... J 

Plattsbille,  lo 

Plattsmouth,  Neb 

Bethlehem,  lo  

Kenosha,  Neb 

Nehr.aska  City,  Neb.. 

Brownsville,  Neb 

Iowa  Point,  Mo 

Nodeway  City,  AIo... 

St.  Joseph,  Mo 

Leachman,   Mo 

Doniphan,  Kan 

Atchinson,  Kan 

Kickapoo  City,  Kan. 

Weston,  Mo 

Ft.  Leavenworth,  K. 

Little  Platte  Riv.  lo. 

Paxkville,  Mo 


6 
13 


93 

100 


4 

110 

4 

114 

7 

121 

2 

123 

5 

128 

4 

1.32 

7 

139 

28 

167 

9 

176 

12 

188 

IS 

206 

3 

209 

4 

213 

8 

221 

9 

230 

7 

237 

10 

247 

6 

253 

6 

259 

8 

267 

14 

281 

4 

285 

4 

289 

13 

302 

441 

441 

110 

551 

675 

1226 

t075 

2301 

60 

2361 

30 

2391 

15 

2406 

10 

2416 

10 

2426 

5 

2431 

3 

2434 

2 

2436 

6 

2441 

2 

2443 

2 

2445 

1 

2446 

1 

2447 

10 

2457 

10 

2467 

30 

2497 

40 

2537 

30 

2567 

25 

2592 

25 

2617 

8 

2625 

9 

2634 

12 

2646 

10 

2656 

4 

2660 

20 

2680 

2 

2682 

PLACES. 


From  Place 
to  Place. 


Missouri  Riv.  Cont'd. 

Wyandotte  City,  K. 

Kansas  Rivor 

Kansas,  Mo 

Randolph,  Mo 

Wayne  City,  Mo... 

Liberty  Landing,  Mo 

Livingston,  Mo... 

Owen's  L.anding,  Mo. 

Richfield,  Mo.  

Sibley,  Mo 

Napoleon,  Mo 

Camden,  Mo 

Wellington,  Mo 

Lexington,  Mo 

Crooked  River,  Mo... 

Walconda,  Mo 

Wnverly,  Mo 

Hill's  Landing,  Mo... 

Miami,  Mo 

De  Witt,  Mo 

Grand  Rivor,  Mo 

Brunswick,  Mo 

Old  Jefferson,  Mo 

Cambridge,  Mo 

Chariton  Rivor,  Mo.. 

Glasgow,  Mo 

Bluffport,  Mo.., 

Arrow  Rock,  Mo 

La  Mine  Rivor,  Mo... 

Booneville.  Mo ) 

Old  Franklin,  Mo..  J 

Rocheport,  Mo 

Mt.  Vernon,  Mo 

Providence,  Mo 

Nashville,  Mo 

Moniteau,  Mo 

Marion,  Mo 

Stonesport,  Mo 

Jefferson  City,  Mo.  | 

Hibernia,   Mo j 

Formosa,  Mo ) 

Osage  River J 

Cote  Sans  Dessein, 
Mo 

Smith's     Landing, 
Mo 

Portland,  Mo 

Gasconade    River,  1 
Mo J 

Hermann,  Mo 

Bridgeport,  Mo 

Pinckney,   Mo ) 

Griswold,   Mo J 

Washington,   Mo 

Ba.=sora,  Mo 

South  Point,  Mo 

Portmuna,  Mo 

Mt.  Pleasant,  Mo.... 

St.  Albans,  Mo 

Missouri  ton.  Mo 

.Johnson's  Ferry,  M 

Port  Royal,  Mo 

Pittman's  Ferry,  Mo 

St.  Charles,  Mo 

Jamestown,  Mo 

Bellefontaine,  Mo 

Columbus,  Mo 

Mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri   

^Continued  on  next  page 


12 

5 

7 

5 

5 

1 

10 

10 

6 

6 

7 

8 

6 

15 

3 

10 

20 

6 

5 

2 

25 

2 

5 

3 

5 

10 

10 

6 

12 
8 
6 
2 
3 
6 

10 

6 
9 


8 

16 

10 

6 
1 

12 

16 
1 
2 
6 
1 
8 
1 

2 

5 
18 
Ifi 

2 


Whole 

diAtano 


2694 

2699 
2706 
2711 

2716 
2717 

2727 
2737 
2743 

2749 
2756 
2764 
2770 
2785 
2783 
2798 
2813 
2824 
2829 
2831 
2856 
2858 
2863 
286G 
2871 
2881 
2891 

2897 

2909 
2917 
2923 
2925 
2923 
2934 
2944 

2950 

2959 

2964 

2972 

2988 

2998 

3004 
3005 

3017 

3033 

3034 
3036 
3042 
3043 
3051 
3052 

3054 

3059 
3077 
3093 
3095 

3099 


TABLES   OF  D I S T A N C E S .—Continued. 


PLACES. 


From  Place 
to  Plav«. 


KASRASKIA  RIVER, 

From    Shelbyville    to 
the  MiasUsijipi  liiv. 

Sholbyvillo,   111 

Vandalia,  111 

Koysport,  III 

Carlyle,  111 

Covington,   111  

Fayetteville,  111 

Athens,  111 

Lively,  111 

Tauaarawa,  111 

Evansville,  111 

Kaskaskia,  111 

Mouth  of  the  Kas- 
kaskia  


WHITE  RIVER, 

From     Worth    to    the 
Mitsiasippi  River. 

Worth,  Ark 

Johnson,  Ark 

Liberty,  Ark 

Athens,  Ark 

Mt.  Olive,  Ark 

Sylamore,  Ark 

Batesville,  Ark 

Jacksonport,  Ark 

Elizabeth,  Ark 

Augusta,  Ark 

Des  Are,  Ark 

Clarendon,  Ark 

Crockett's  Bluff,  Ark. 

Cass  Coe,  Ark 

Mouth  of  White  Riv. 


ARKANSAS  RIVER, 

From  Fort  Gibson  to 
the  Missiaiiippi  It. 

Ft.  Gibson,  Ind.  Ter. 

Fort  Coffee,  Ind.  Tor. 

Fort  Smith,  Ark 

Van  Buren,  Ark 

Ozark,  Ark 

Rosoville,  Ark  

Patterson's  Bluff,  Ark 

Spadra  Bluff,  Ark 

Pittsbur;;h,  Ark 

St.  Martin's,  Ark 

Scotia,  Ark 

Norristown,  Ark...  ) 

Dardenelle,  Ark ( 

Lewisburir,  Ark 

Greene  Grove,  Ark... 

Little  Rock,  Ark 

Straw  Hat,  Ark 

Pine  Bluff,  Ark 

Rob  Roy,  Ark 

New  Gascony,  Ark... 

Richland,  Ark 

Swan  Lake,  Ark 

Niccattoo,  Ark 

South  Bend,  Ark 

Arkansas  Post,  Ark.. 

Red  Fork,  Ark 

Wellington,  Ark 

Mouth  of  the  Ar- 1 
kansas j 


50 

27 

12 

14 

26 

9 

2 

.3 

20 

8 


55 

28 

25 

6 

6 

45 

35 

10 

65 

35 

38 

33 

8 

50 


100 
20 
10 
60 
12 
20 
15 

5 
10 

2 

20 

40 
IS 
40 
70 
20 
12 
10 
8 
5 
10 
30 
25 
10 
20 

30 


Whole  [ 
dittanc 


50 
77 
89 
103 
129 
138 
140 
143 
163 
171 

178 


55 
83 
108 
114 
120 
165 
200 
210 
275 
310 
348 
381 
389 
439 


100 
120 
130 
190 
202 
222 
237 
242 
252 
254 

274 

314 
332 
372 
442 
462 
474 
484 
492 
497 
507 
537 
562 
572 
592 

622 


PLACES. 


From  riacc 
to  Place. 


RED  RIVER, 

From  Lanesport  to  the 
JUissiesip2>i  Itiver. 

Lanesport,  Ark 

Fulton,  Ark 

Conway,  Ark 

Shreveport,  La 

Nachitoches,  La 

Alexandria.    La 

Mouth  of  Red  River. 


OHIO    RIVER 

From    Pittshurcfh     to 
the  3fississippi  R. 

Pittsburgh,  Pa 

Manchester,  Pa 

Middleton,  Pa 

Sewickleyville,  Pa... 

Economy,  Pa 

Baden,  Pa 

Freedom,  Pa 

Rochester,  Pa 

Beaver,  Pa \ 

Jacobsburg,  Pa J 

Georgetown,  Pa....  ) 

Glasgow,  Pa J 

Liverpool,  0 

Wellsville,  0 

Elliottsville,  0 

Newburg,  0 , 

Steubenville,  0 

Wellsburg,  Ya 

Warrenton,  0 

Tiltonsville,  0 

Burlington,  0 

Martinsville,   0 

Wheeling,  Va | 

Bridgeport,  0 J 

Bellaire,  0 

Mannyville,  Va 

Elizabethtown,  Va 

Moundsville 

Big  Grave  Creek.., 

Steinervillo,  0 

Clarington,   0 

New  Martinsville,  Va 

Sistersville,  Va 

Newport,  0 

Marietta,  0 

Muskingum  River. 

Harmer,  0 

Vienna,  Va 

Parkersburg,  Va... ") 
Little  Kanawha  R.  j 

Belpre,  0 J 

Blannerhassett's  I 

Centre,   0 

Troy,  0 | 

Hockhocking  Riv..  J 

Belleville,  Va 

Murraysville,  Va 

Shade  River,  0 

Ravenswood,  Va 

Letartsville,  0 

Graham's  Station,  0.. 

Racine,  0 

Minersville,  0 

Fomeroy,  0 


100 
100 

90 
100 

80 
150 


14 

4 
4 
8 
2 
9 
7 
7 
3 
4 
1 

1 

4 


9 
12 

19 


12 

4 
5 
1 
11 
23 
6 
1 
6 
1 


Whole 
di«taiic« 


100 
200 
290 
390 
470 
620 


11 
13 
19 
23 
25 
29 

30 

44 

48 
52 
60 
62 
71 
78 
85 
88 
92 
93 

94 

98 
106 

107 

115 
122 
130 
139 
151 

170 

176 

1S3 

185 

197 

201 
207 
208 
219 
242 
248 
249 
255 
256 


PLACES. 


From   Place  \Vljole 
to  Flact^  iliiujio 


Ohio  River  Contin'd. 

Coalport,  0 

Middleport,  0 ) 

Sheffield,  0 j 

West  Columbia,  Va... 

Cheshire,  0 

Addison,   0 

Point  Pleasant,  Va,  ) 
Great  Kanawha  R.  J 

Gallipolis,  0 

l!lg  Racoon  Creek,  0- 

Blandenburg,  0 , 

Millerspiirt,  0 

Haskellville,  0 

Guyandotte,  Va.. 
Guyandutte  R.,  V 
Proctorsville,  0... 
Burlington,  0 


Big  Sandy  River...  1 
Catleltsburg.  Ky...  J 

Coal  Grove,  U , 

Ironton,  0 

Hanging  Rock,  0.... 
Greenupsburgh,  Ky.. 

Wheelersburg,  0 

Sciotoville,  0 

Portsmouth,  0... 
Scioto  River,  0.., 
Springville,  Ky... 

Alexandria,  0 

Bradford,  0 

Rockville,  0 

Vanceburg,  Ky 

Rome,  0 

Concord,  Ky 

Manchester,  0  , 

Maysville,  Ky ) 

Aberdeen,  0 | 

Charleston,  Kj' , 

Ripley,  0 

Lavana,  0 ) 

Dover,  Ky j 

Higginsport,  0 

Augusta,   Ky 

Rockspring,  Ky 

Mechanicsburg,  0... 

Neville,  0 ) 

Fosterville,  Ky j 

Moscow,  0 

Point  Ple.asant  0...  ) 

Belmont,  Ky J 

New   Richmond,  0.., 

Palestine,  0 

Californiii,   0 | 

Little  Miami  River  J 

Columbia,  0 

Pendleton,  0 

Jamestown,  Ky... 

Brooklyn,  Kv 

CINCINNATI,  0...  1 

Newport,  Ky [ 

Licking  River 

Covington,  Ky.... 

Industry,  0 

Claysviile,  Ky.... 

Home  City,  0 

North  Bond,  0 

Great  Miami  River. 
Lawrenceburg,  la.... 
Petersburg,  Ky 


MflM.     MilM. 


4 
5 
6 
14 
3 

10 

8 

4 

4 
5 
4 
6 
8 


3 

3 

11 

2 

7 
7 
7 

12 

7 
2 


4 
4 
4 
4 

3 

2 

3 

5 

4 

11 
2 


\_Concluded  on  next  ]^age.'\ 


TABLES   OF  DISTANCE S.— Continued. 


PLACES. 


From  Place    Whole 
to  Place,  di.-tance 


Ohio  River  Contin'd. 

Aurora,  la. 

Belleview,  Ky 

Rising  Sun,  la 

Millersburg,  la 

Big  Bone  Lick  Cr'k  ) 

Ilamilton,   Ky J 

Patriot,  la 

Warsaw,  Ky 

New  York,  la 

Vevay,  la ) 

Ghent.  Ky J 

CarroUton,  Ky... 
Xentucky  River 

Preston,  Ky 

Madison,  la | 

Wilton,  Ky j 

Hanover  Landing,  la 

New  London,  la , 

Bethlehem,  la 

Westport,  Ky 

Charleston  L'd'g,  la.. 

Utiea,  la 

Jeffersonville.  la 

Louisville,  Ky 

Shippingsport,  Ky 

Portland,  Ky \ 

New  Albany,  la...  J 

Bridgeport,  la 

Blakesville,  la 


Salt  River,  Ky \ 

West  Point,  Ky....  J 

Brandenburg,  Ky 

Mauckport,  la 

Northampton.  la 

Amsterdam,  la 

Blue  River,  la 

Leavenworth,  la 

Fredonia,  la 

Alton,  la 

Concordia,  Ky 

Rome,  la. 

Stephensport,  Ky.. 
Sinking  Creek,  Ky. 

Cloverport,  Ky 

Tobinsport,  la 

Hawesville,  Ky 

Cannalton,  la 

Troy,  la 

Anderson  River.... 

Maxville,  la 

Batesville,  la 

Lewisport,  Ky , 

Rockport,  la 

Owensburg,  Ky 

Bon  Harbor,  Ky... 

Enterprise,  la 

Point  Isabel,  la 

Nowburg,  la 

Green  River,  Ky... 

Evansville,  la 

Verona,  la , 

Henderson,  Ky 

West  Franklin,  la. 
Mount  Vernon,  la. 

Uniontown,  Ky 

Wabash  River 

Raleigh,  Ky 

Shawneetown,  111.. 
OMeyville,  Ky 


Miles.     Milps. 


2 

11 

1 

10 


10 


10 

6 
6 
6 
6 
12 
5 
9 
1 
2 


18 
3 
7 
3 
6 
2 
5 
13 
10 

12 

10 
14 

6 

1 
2 
3 

13 
9 
3 
3 
1 

13 
6 
9 

r 

5 

14 

12 

10 

5 

6 

5 

10 


502 
503 
511 
514 

523 

525 
536 
537 

547 


001 


567 

573 
579 
585 
591 
603 
608 
617 
618 
620 

621 

630 
636 

640 

658 
661 
668 
671 
678 
680 
685 
698 
708 

720 


730 

744 

750 

751 
753 
756 
769 
778 
781 
784 
785 
798 
804 
813 
820 
825 
839 
851 
861 
866 
872 
877 
887 


PLACES. 


From  Place    Whole 
to   Place,  distance 


Ohio  River  Contin'd' 

Battery  Rock,  HI 

Cave-in-rock,  111 

Elizabethtown,  111.... 

Golconda,  111 

Cumberland  River ) 

Smitbland,  Ky J 

Tennessee  River... ) 

Paducah,  Ky j 

Belgrade,  111 

Port  Massac,  111 

Metropolis,  111. 

Hillaman,  111 

Wilkinsonville,  111.... 

Caledonia,  111 

America,  111 

Emporium,  111.  .. 

Cairo,  111 

Mouth  of  Ohio.... 


MUSKINGUM  RIVER, 

From  Coshocton  to  the 
Ohio  River. 

Coshocton,  0 

Dresden,   0 

Zanesville,  0 

Duncan's  Falls,  0..  ) 

Taylors ville,  0 J 

Eagleport,  0 

McCounellsville,  0  1 

Malta,  0 J 

Newcastle,  0 

Windsor,  0 

Big  Rock,  0 

Beverly,  0 ) 

Waterford,  0 J 

Lowell,  0 

Mth.  of  Muskingum 

sciotTTiver. 

From  Columbus  to  the 
Ohio  River. 

Columbus,  0 

Circleville,  0 

Chillicothe,  0 

Piketon,  0... , 

Jasper,  0.. 

Lucasville,  0 

Mouthof  Scioto..., 


KENTUCKY  RIFER, 

From   Booncsboro'  to 
the  Ohio  River. 

Boonesboro',  Ky 

Cogar's  Landing,  Ky 
Monday's  Land'g,  K. 
Cumming's  Ldg,  Ky. 

Oregon,  Ky 

McCowan's  Ldg,  Ky. 
Wilson's  Land'g,  Ky. 
Sherlock's  L'd'g,  Ky. 
Woodford  L'd'g,  Ky. 

Frankfort,  Ky 

Flat  Creek  L'd'g,  Ky 

Monterey,  Ky 

Owenton's  Land'g,  K 

Lockport,  Ky 

Gratz,  Ky 


Miles.  I   MUea. 


I 

I 

2  I  889 

12  I  901 

6  907 

23  930 


15 

12 

8 
2 
1 
8 
7 
10 

ei 
O 

8 


17 
16 


11 

10 

3 

7 
8 

10 

10 
12 


26 
19 
20 
2 
10 
13 


945 

957 

965 
967 
9G8 
976 
983 
993 
996 
999 

1005 


17 
33 

42 

53 

63 

66 
73 
81 

91 

101 
113 


26 
45 
65 
67 
77 
90 


4 

4 

4 

8 

10 

18 

3 

21 

4 

25 

4 

29 

4 

33 

12 

45 

15 

60 

3 

63 

5 

68 

6 

74 

3 

77 

PLACES. 


From  Place 
to  Place 


Miles 


Kentucky  Riv.  Cont'd. 

Drennon's  Springs,  K 

Springport,  Ky 

Marion,  Ky 

Law's  Lauding,  Ky... 

Worthsville,  Ky 

Mouth  of  Kentucky.. 

WAB;IS1I  RIVER, 

From  Lafaytttc  to  the 
Ohio  River. 

Lafayette,  la 

Wbeaton,  la 

La  Grange,  la 

Maysville,  La 

Independence,  la 

Atica,  la 

Williaia.^port,  la 

Portland,  la 

Baltimore,  la 

Covington,  la 

Perryville,  la 

Vermilion   Piiver 

Lodiville,  la 

Newport,  la 

Montezuma,  la 

Armiesburg,  la 

Clinton,  la 

Nurua,  la 

Harrison,  la 

Terrs  Haute,  la 

Darwin,  la 

Yorke,  111 

Hudsonville,  111 

Merom,  la 

Russellville,  111 

Vincennes,  la 

Mt.  Carmel,  111 

GraysviUe,  111 

New  Baltimore,  la... 
New  Harmony,  la... 

Chainville,  la 

Mouth  of  Wabash... 


CUMBERLAND  RIV. 

From  Nailiville  to  the 
Ohio  River. 

Nashville,  Tenn 

Clarksville,  Tenn 

Palmyra,  Tenn 

Dover,  Tenn 

Tobaccoport,  Tenn.. 

Canton,  Ky 

Rockcastle,  Ky 

Eddyville.  Ky 

Mth.  of  Cumberland 


TENNESSEE  RIVER, 

From   Muscle  Shoah 
to  the  Ohiii  River. 

Muscle  Shoals 

Florence,  Ala 

Tuscumbia,  Ala... 

Waterloo,  Ala 

Savannah,  Tenn  .... 
Carrollvillc,  Tenn.... 

Perryville,  Tenn 

Reynoldsburg,  Tenn 

Mouth  of  Tennessee 


9 
3 
5 
1 

8 
2 
8 
6 
4 
9 
10 
2 
7 
6 
2 
10 
2 

14 

4 

25 

16 

9 

8 

25 

18 

36 

45 

9 

6 

20 

40 


Wbote 

distanfl 


86 
86 
90 
93 
97 
105 


9 

12 

17 

18 

26 

28 

36 

42 

46 

65 

65 

67 

74 

80 

82 

92 

94 

103 

112 

137 

153 

162 

170 

195 

213 

249 

294 

303 

309 

329 

360 


55 

65 

15 

70 

30 

100 

15 

115 

16 

131 

5 

136 

17 

153 

50 

203 

30 

30 

35 

55 

35 

100 

20 

120 

50 

170 

110 

2S0 

INDEX  TO  EIVEES. 


FACE,  f 

Alabama  River 60 

Alleghany  River 86 

Amite  River 46 

Anderson  River 118 

Aransas  River 65 

Arkansas  River 80 

Bad  Axe  River 14 

Bark    River 69 

Bayou  Goulc 48 

Bayou  La  Fourche 48 

Bayou  Pierre 40 

Bayou  Plaquemiue 46 

Bayou  Sara 44 

Beaver  River 92 

Big  Barren  River 120 

Big  Black  River 40 

Big  Bone  Lick  Creek. . .  112 

Big  Grave  Cr6ek 96 

Big  Racoon  Creek 102 

Big  Saudy  River 102 

Big  Stone  River 74 

Black  River,  Ark 80 

Black  River,  Wis 13 

Blue  River,  Ark 81 

Blue  River,  la 118 

Brazos  River 64 

Cahaba  River 60 

Canadian  River 80 

Cash  River 122 

Chagres  River 66 

Chariton  River 77 

Cheat  River 84 

Chippewa  River 68 

Clearwater  River 68 

Clinch  River 127 

Colorado  River 64 

Coosa  River 60 

Copper  River 20 

Crawfish  River 69 

Crooked  River 77 

Cumberland  River 127 

Des  Moines  River 70 

Des  Plaines  River 71 

Fabin's  River 20 

False  River 46 

False  Washita  River. . .  81 

Fevre  River 15 

Forked  Deer  River 34 

Fox  River,  111 71 

Fox  River,  lo 18 

Fox  River,  Wis 68 

8 


PACK.  I 

Gasconade   River 78 1 

Grand  River,  Ind.Ter..  80  j 

Grand  River,  Mo 77  i 

Great  Kanawha  River. .  102' 

Great  Miami  River....  112 1 

Green  River 120  I 

Guadalupe  River 65] 

Guyandotte  River 102 

Hatchee  River 34 

Hockhocking  River. .. .  100 

Hokah  River 13 

Holston  River 128 

Homochitto  River 42 

Illinois  River,  111 71 

Illinois  River,  Ind.  Ter.  80 

Iowa  River 69 

Kankakee  River 71 

Kansas  River 76 

Kaskaskia   River 79 

Kentucky  River 125 

La  Mine  River 77 

Lavacca  River 65 

Licking  River 110 

Little  Blue  River 118 

Little  Kanawha  River. .  98 

Little  jVIiami  River 106 

Little  Platte  River 76 

Makoqueta  River 15 

Manchac  Bayou 46 

Maramec  River 26 

Mary's  River 28 

Mission  River 65 

Mississippi  River 9 

Missouri  River 73 

Monongahela  River 84 

Muddy   River 28 

Muskingum  River 124 

Neasho  River 80 

Neches   River 62 

Nueces   River 65 

Obion  River 32 

Ohio  River 88 

Osage  River 78 


Platte  River. . 
Plover  River. 


75 
68 


PAGC. 

Racoon  River,  lo 70 

Racoon  River,  Wis....  14 

Red  Cedar  River 68 

Red  River 81 

Rio  Grande 65 

Rock  River 68 

Rum   River 12 

Sabine  River 62 

Salt  River,  Ky 116 

Salt  River,  Mo 20 

San  Antonio  River 65 

Sangamon  River 72 

San  Jacinto  River 64 

Scioto   River 124 

Shade  River 100 

Sinking    Creek 118 

Skunk  River 17 

Spoon    River 72 

St.  Croix  River 67 

St.  Francis  River 36 

St.  Peters  River 67 

Sunflower  River 81 

Swan  River 11 

Talapoosa  River 60 

Tallahatchee  River 81 

Tennessee  River 128 

Thompson's  Creek 46 

Tombigbee  Piiver 60 

Trempaleau  River 13 

Trinity   River 62 

Turkey  River 14 

Tuscarawas  River 124 

Upper  Iowa  River 14 

Vermilion  River,  la. . . .  126 

Vermilion  River,  Min. .  13 

Wabash  River 125 

Walhoundintc  River. . . .  124 

Wapsipinecon  River   .  .  16 

White  River,  Ark W 

Wliite  River,  la 126 

Willow  River 67 

Wisconsin  River 68 

Wolf  River 34 

Yallabusha  River 81 

Yazoo  Pass,  or  Bayou.  .  36 

Yazoo  River 81 

Yellow  Stone  River. . ..  74 

Youghiogheney  River. .  84 


JAMES' 


RIVEE     GUIDE.     > 


THE    MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 

The  Mississippi  is  the  largest  and  most  magnificent  river  in  North  America, 
and  with  its  main  branch,  the  Missouri,  the  longest  in  the  world.  It  takes 
its  rise  near  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Red  Eiver  of  the  north,  and  in  a 
small  lake  called  Itasca.  This  beautiful  lake,  which  is  some  5  or  7  miles  in 
length,  reposes  amidst  hills  of  marine  sand,  of  the  drift  epoch,  and  consists  of 
pure  springs  of  water,  gushing  out  in  copious  rills,  within  a  visible  basin.  Its 
distance  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  estimated  at  3160  miles.  The  entire  alti- 
tude of  the  lake,  as  determined  by  Mr.  Nicollet,  in  1836,  is  1575  feet,  which  is 
105  feet  below  the  summit  of  its  environing  hills;  and  its  latitude,  at  School- 
craft's Island,  the  only  island  in  it,  is  47°  13'  35"  N.  Lat.,  and  it  flows  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  in  29°  N.  Lat. 

The  face  of  the  country  about  its  head,  presents  a  very  similar  appearance  to 
that  at  its  estuary.  It  is  formed  of  many  small  branches ;  but  soon  becomes 
a  broad  stream,  moving  a  wide  expanse  of  waters,  with  a  current  scarcely  percep- 
tible— sometimes  along  a  marshy  bed — through  interminable  swamps  ;  at  others, 
over  a  white  sand  bottom,  with  its  waters  transparent,  and  at  others,  "  it  is 
compressed  to  a  narrow  and  rapid  current,  between  ancient  and  hoary  limestone 
bluffs.  A  great  number  of  streams,  risiug  in  the  same  plateau,  and  interlocking 
with  the  waters  of  Red  River,  and  other  streams  of  Lake  Winnipeg,  unite  to  form 
the  St.  Peters  and  Mississippi."  The  following  are  among  the  mo.^t  considerable 
of  its  tributaries :  Rapid,  St.  Croix,  Cannon  River,  Bufiido  Bluff,  Black,  Root, 
Upper  Iowa,  Yellow,  Bad  Axe,  Wisconsin,  Turkey  River,  La  Mine,  Fevre 
Rivei",  Tete  de  Mort,  Wipisipinacon,  Little  Loutour,  Rock  River,  Iowa,  Des 
Moines,  Waconda,  Fabian,  Justioni,  Oahaka,  or  Salt  River,  Bocuf  of  Cuivre, 
Dardenne,  Illinois,  Missouri,  Maramcc,  Kaskaskia,  Big  Muddy,  Ohio,  Wolf,  St. 
Francis,  White  River,  Arkansas,  Yazoo,  Red  River,  and  Bayou  Sara.*  1100 
miles  below  its  source,  and  771  above  St.  Louis,  are  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
Here  the  river  is  about  600  yards  wide,  and  is  precipitated  over  a  ledge  of 
limestone,  17  feet  high.  The  scenery  around  the  falls  is  grand  and  imposing. 
Below  thi.s  point,  the  river  is  bounded  by  limestone  bluffs,  from  100  to  400  feet 
high,  and  first  begins  to  exhibit  islands.  Its  current  is  broke  by  the  Rapids,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Rock  river  and  Des  Moines,  which  partially  obstruct  navigation, 
for  a  portion  of  the  summer.    ■ 

The  scenery  along  the  Upper,  or  Rock  River  Rapids,  is  very  fine.  On  the 
vrcstern  side,  the  land  rises  in  gentle  slopes,  which  are  terminated  in  the  distance 

♦Flint's  Geography. 

9 


10  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

hy  a  beautiful  chain  of  hills.  On  the  opposite  side,  a  broad,  flat  plain,  of  more 
than  a  mile  in  width,  and  several  miles  in  length,  presents  itself.  The  celebrated 
Black  Hawk  War  originated  in  the  determination  of  the  Sacs  and  Fox  Indians 
to  maintain  possession  of  this  splendid  tract  of  country. 

"Below  the  rapids,  the  river  assumes  its  medial  width  and  character  from  that 
point  to  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri.     It  is  a  still  more  beautiful  river  than 
the  Ohio;  somewhat  gentler  in  its  current — a  third  wider,  with  broad,  clean 
sand-bars,  except  in  time  of  high  waters,  when  they  are  all  covered.    At  every 
little   distance,  there  are  islands,  sometimes  a  number  of  them  parallel,  and 
broadening  the  stream  to  a  great  width.     These  islands,  are,  many  of  them, 
large,   and   have,  in   the    summer  season,  an    aspect  of  beauty,  as  they  swell 
gently  from  the  clear  stream,  a  vigor  and  grandeur  of  vegetation,  which  con- 
tribute much  to  the  magnificence  of  the  river."     "  Where  it  receives  the  Mis- 
souri, it  is  a  mile  and  a  half  wide.     The  Missouri,  itself,  enters  with  a  mouth  not 
more  than  half  a  mile  wide.    The  united  streams  below  have  thence,  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio,  a  medial  width  of  little  more    than  half  a  mile.     This   mighty 
aflBuent  seems  rather  to  diminish   than  increase  its  width  ;    but  it  perceptibly 
alters  its  depth,  its  mass  of  waters,  and,  what  is  to  be  regretted,  wholly  changes 
its  character.    It  is  no  longer  the  gentle,  placid  stream,  with  smooth  shores,  and 
clean  sand-bars ;  but  has  a  furious  and  boiling  current,  a  turbid  and  dangerous 
mass  of  sweeping  waters,  jagged  and  dilapidated  shores,  and,  wherever  its  waters 
have  receded,  deposits  of  mud.    It  remains  a  sublime  object  of  contemplation; 
•but  its  character  of  calm  magnificence,  that  so  delighted  the  eye  above,  is  seen 
no  more."*     The    surface  of  the  river  is  covered  with  huge  boils  or  swells, 
which  render  it  a  matter  of  considerable  difficulty,  in  some  places,  to  navigate 
a  boat.     "  In  its  course,  accidental  circumstances  shift  the  impetus  of  its  cur- 
rent, and  propel  it  upon  the  point  of  an  island,  bend,  or  sand-bar.     In  these  in- 
stances, it  tears  up  the  island,  removes  the  sand-bars,  and  sweeps  away  the  tender, 
alluvial  soil  of  the  bends,  with  all  their  trees,  and  deposits  the  spoils  in  another 
place.     At  the  season  of  high  waters,  nothing  is  more  familiar  to  the  ears  of  the 
people  on  the  river,  than  the  deep  crash  of  a  landslip,  in  which  larger  or  smaller 
masses  of  the  soil  on  the  banks,  with  all  the  trees,  are  plunged  into  the  stream. 
Such  is  its  character,  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Balize — a  wild,  furious,  whirl- 
ing river,  never  navigated  safely. 

°'  No  person  who  descends  this  river  for  the  first  time,  receives  clear  and  ade- 
quate ideas  of  its  grandeur,  and  the  amount  of  water  which  it  carries.  If  it 
be  in  the  spring,  when  the  river  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  is  generally  over 
its  banks,  although  the  sheet  of  water  that  is  making  its  way  to  the  gulf,  is, 
perhaps,  80  miles  wide,  yet,  finding  its  way  through  deep  forests  and_  swamps, 
that  conceal  all  from  the  eye,  no  expanse  of  water  is  seen,  but  the  width,  that 
is  curved  out  between  the  outline  of  woods  on  either  bank;  and  it  seldom 
exceeds,  and  ofteuer  falls  short  of  a  mile.  But  when  he  sees,  in  descending 
from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  that  it  swallows  up  one  river  after  another,  with 
mouths  as  wide  as  itself,  without  affecting  its  width  at  all— who^n  he  sees  jtre- 
ceiving  in  succession  the  mighty  Missouri,  the  broad  Ohio,  St.  Francis,  "White, 
Arkansas,  and  Red  Rivers,  all  of  them  of  great  depth,  length,  andvolume  of 
^ater— when  he  sees  this  mighty  river  absorbing  them  all,  and  retaining  a  vol- 
ume, apparently  unchanged,  he  begins  to  estimate  rightly  the  increasing  depth 
of  current,  that  must  roll  on  in  its  deep  channel  to  the  sea.  Carried  outof  the 
Balize,  and  sailing  with  a  good  breeze  for  hours,  he  sees  nothing  on  any  side  but 
the  turbid  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  long  after  he  is  out  of  sight  of  land. 

'<  Between  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  St.  Louis,  on  the  west  side  of  the  riyer, 
the  blufl"s  are  generally  near  it,  seldom  diverging  from  it  more  than  2  milea. 


•  Flint's  Geography. 


THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER.  11 

They  are  for  the  most  part,  perpendicular  masses  of  limestone ;  sometimes  shoot- 
ing up  into  towers  and  pinnacles,  presenting,  as  Mr.  Jefferson  well  observed,  at 
a  distance,  the  aspect  of  the  battlements  and  towers  of  an  ancient  city.  Some- 
times the  river  sweeps  the  base  of  these  perpendicular  bluffs,  as  happens  at  the 
Cornice  rocks,  and  at  the  cliffs  above  St.  Genevieve.  They  rise  here  between  200 
and  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  There  are  many  imposing  spectacles 
of  this  sort  near  the  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  this  distance.  We  may 
mention  among  them,  that  gigantic  mass  of  rocks,  forming  a  singular  island  in 
the  river,  called  the  'Grand  Tower,'  and  the  shot  tower  at  Hercuhineum. 

"  From  the  sources  of  the  river  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  annual  flood 
ordinarily  commences  in  March,  and  does  not  subside  until  the  last  of  May,  and 
its  medial  height  is  15  feet.  At  the  lowest  stages,  4  feet  of  water  may  be  found 
from  the  rapids  of  Des  Moines  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  Between  that 
point  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  there  are  6  feet  in  the  (Channel  of  the  shallow- 
est places  at  low  water;  and  the  annual  inundation  may  be  estimated  at  25  feet. 
Between  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  the  St.  Francis,  there  are  various  shoal  places, 
where  pilots  are  often  perplexed  to  find  a  sufficient  depth  of  water,  when  the  river 
is  low.  Below  that  point,  there  is  no  difficulty  for  vessels  of  any  draught,  ex- 
cept to  find  the  right  channel.  Below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  the  medial  flood 
is  50  feet;  the  highest,  60.  Above  Natchez,  the  flood  begins  to  decline.  At 
Baton  Rouge,  it  seldom  exceeds  30  feet ;  and  at  New  Orleans,  12.  Some  have 
supposed  this  gradual  diminution  of  the  flood  to  result  from  the  di'aining  of  the 
numerous  affluxes  of  the  river,  that  convey  away  such  considerable  portions  of 
its  waters,  by  separate  channels  to  the  sea.  To  this  should  be  added,  no  doubt, 
the  check,  which  the  river,  at  this  distance,  begins  to  feel  from  the  reaction  of 
the  sea,  where  this  mighty  mass  of  descending  waters  finds  its  level."  * 

The  banks  of  the  river,  from  Cairo  down,  are  clothed,  in  many  instances,  with 
a  rich  verdure  of  trees,  down  to  the  water's  edge,  interspersed  here  and  there 
with  towns  and  fine  plantations.  About  500  miles  below,  commences  the  great 
cotton  growing  region,  and,  below  the  mouth  of  Red  River,  the  sugar  plantations. 
From  thence  to  New  Orleans,  the  banks  of  the  river  are  lined  with  a  succession 
of  fine  plantations  and  dwellings,  delightflally  surrounded  with  shrubbery.  From 
Columbia,  Arkansas,  the  forest  of  cotton  and  other  trees  presents  a  most  singular 
appearance,  being,  in  many  places,  covered  with  a  peculiar  kind  of  moss,  which  de- 
pends from  the  branches,  in  long,  thick  masses,  and  gives  an  almost  funereal  aspect 
to  them.     It  is  the  moss  commonly  used,  when  manufactured,  for  mattreses,  &c. 

A  traveler,  in  some  well  written  sketches,  very  truthfully  remarks,  that,  "No 
person  can  pass  down  the  Mississippi,  and  view  the  immense  bodies  of  unculti- 
vated lands,  lying  contiguous  to  its  banks,  without  reflecting  on  the  great  changes 
which  time  will  produce.  In  a  century,  or  two  at  the  most,  the  banks  of  the 
river  will  present  continuous  lines  of  cultivated  plantations,  similar  to  those  on 
the  coast.  The  lands  are  as  rich  as  nature  can  make  them,  being  all  of  alluvial 
formation  ;  and  the  soil  of  such  a  depth  that  there  is  no  danger  of  its  ever  be- 
ing exhausted.  When  we  read  of  the  myriads  of  people,  who  formerly  existed 
in  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  and  compare  the  capabilities  of  the  Mississippi  valley 
with  it,  we  can  comprehend  the  great  destiny,  awaiting  only  the  development  of 
time,  in  store  for  this  already  far-famed  region." 

Fort  Ripley,  formerly  Fort  Gaines,  is  6  miles  south  of  Crow  Wing  river, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Nokay,  in  Cass  co.,  Minnesota,  and  122  miles  north 
of  St.  Paul. 

Swan  River,  Benton  co.,  Minn.,  18  miles  south  of  Fort  Ripley.  Near  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  is  a  small  settlement. 

•Flint's  Greography. 

« 


:i2  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Sauk  Eapids,  county  seat  of  Benton  co.,  Minn.,  28  miles  below.  The  vil- 
lage is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the  center  of  a  very  fine 
farming  country.     Population  about  300. 

Benton,  9  miles  below,  in  the  same  county. 

Itasca,  about  40  miles  below,  in  Benton  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Eum  River,  10  miles  below,  rises  to  the  north  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Mille 
Lacs,  aud  after  a  course  of  about  80  miles,  falls  into  the  Mississippi  at  this  point. 

Manomin,  10  miles  below,  in  Ramsey  co.,  Minn. 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  9  miles  below.  These  falls  are  about  18  feet  per- 
pendicular, and  about  30 
rods  in  width,  divided  by 
a  conical  island,  leaving 
nearly  two-thirds  on  the 
west  side.  The  entire  fall 
of  the  river  in  a  distance 
of  a  few  miles,  is  about 
100  feet,  affording  almost 
unlimited  water-power. 
St.  Anthony's  Falls,  Ramsey  co.,  Minn.  The  town  of  St.  Anthony  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  side  and  summit  of  a  hill,  rising  up  from  a  preci- 
pice, from  which  a  fine  view  of  the  falls  and  surrounding  country  can  be  obtained. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  University  of  Minnesota,  endowed  by  a  liberal  donation  of 
lands  by  the  General  Government.  There  are  a  number  of  stores,  2  printing 
offices,  2  hotels,  a  number  of  saw  and  grist-mills,  and  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. Population  about  2500.  The  laud  in  the  vicinity  of  the  falls,  consists 
of  prairie,  interspersed  with  openings  of  various  extent,  and  is  generally  admi- 
rably adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.  It  is  also  well  watered  by  numerous 
small  lakes  and  streams,  whose  never-failing  springs  add  much  to  the  strength 
and  fertility  of  the  soil.     These  lakes  and  streams  are  well  stocked  with  fish. 

The  falls  of  St.  Anthony  were  named  by  Father  Hennepin,  a  companion  of 
the  enterprising  M.  De  la  Salle,  who,  in  1680,  ascended  the  Mississippi  river  as 
far  as  the  falls,  and  reported  that  he  had  discovered  its  source.  The  Mississippi 
river  was  discovered  by  Marquette,  seven  years  before. 

Minneapolis,  county  seat  of  Hennepiu  co.,  Minn.,  is  a  thriving  town  oppo- 
Bitc  St.  Anthony's  Falls.     Population  aliout  3.000. 

Fort  Snelling,  8  miles  below,  in  the  same  county.     This  fort  is  situated 
on  the  west  side  of  the   Mississippi,  and  at  the  mouth  of 
St.  Peter's  Eiver.     (See  page  67.) 

Mendota,  the  capital  of  Dakota  co.,  Minn.,  is  just  below  the  mouth  of  St. 
Peter's  river,  which  must,  at  no  distant  day,  bear  upon  its  waters  the  valuable 
products  of  a  fertile  and  luxuriant  soil.  Mendota  contains  a  number  of  stores, 
and  a  population  of  about  500. 

St.  Paul,  6  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Minnesota,  and  county  seat  of 
Ramsey  co.  'This  is  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation.  St.  Paul  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  high  bluff,  from  which  a  fine  view  of  the  river  may  be  had.  It 
contains  a  fine  State  House,  6  or  8  churches,  a  number  of  hotels,  3  printing 
offices,  several  mills,  and  flourishing  schools,  a  large  number  of  stores,  and  me- 
chanic's shops  of  various  kinds.  It  is  rapidly  increasing  in  wealth,  and  com- 
mands the  trade  of  a  large  extent  of  growing  country,  with  a  soil  of  exceeding 
fertility.     Population  estimated  at  about  8000. 

Eed  Eock,  Ramsey  co.,  Minn.,  7  miles  below.  Its  name  is  derived  from 
a  lar^e  rock,  which  the  Indians  painted  red,  and  styled   Wahon,  or  Spint-rock. 


TEE   MISSISSIPPI  RIVER.  13 

Red  Rock  was  first  settled  by  the  Methodist  missionaries,  in  1837,  under  the  su- 
perintendence of  the  Rev.  Alfred  Branson.  An  Indian  school  was  established, 
at  an  expenditure  of  830,000;  but,  after  a  few  years,  the  mission  failed.  The 
soil  in  this  region  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  corn. 

Hastings,  10  miles  below,  in  Minnesota. 

Vermilion,  or  Rapid  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  3  miles  below;  it  rises 
in  Minnesota,  and  flows  north-cast  ou  a  line  nearly  parallel  with  the  St.  Peters  river. 

Point  Douglas,  ^yashington  co.,  Minn.,  5  miles  below.  This  village  is 
situated  on  a  point  of  land  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  St.  Croix  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi river.     It  has  an  excellent  steamboat  landing. 

St.  Croix  River,  (See  page  T)".) 

Prescott,  the  county  seat  of  Pierce  co.,  Wis.,  is  just  below  the  junction  of 
the  St.  Croix  with  the  Mississippi. 

Red  Wing,  18  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Goodhue  co.,  Minn.,  and 
at  the  upper  part  of  Lake  Pepin. 

Lake  Pepin,  is  formed  by  an  expansion  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  about 
25  miles  long,  and  4  wide ;  the  water  is  clear  and  the  current  very  gentle.  On 
the  eastern  side  of  the  lake,  is  the  celebrated  Maiden's  Rock,  which  rises  perpen- 
dicularly 500  feet.  Near  the  head  of  the  lake,  on  the  east  side,  is  the  mouth  of 
Rush  river,  which  empties  into  the  lake ;  and,  ou  the  opposite  side  is  the  Cannon 
river.     The  shores  of  this  lake  abound  with  carnelian  and  other  valuable  stones. 

Kansas,  25  miles  below  Red  Wing,  at  the  lower  extremity  of  Lake  Pepin, 
in  Dunn  co..  Wis. 

Chippewa  River,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  1  mile  below,  from  Wiscon- 
sin.  (See  page  68.) 

Wabashaw,  in  Wabashaw  co.,  Minn.,  about  10  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Chippewa. 

Fountain  City,  15  miles  below,  in  Buffalo  co.,  Wis. 

Trempaleau  River,  10  miles  below,  rises  in  Jackson  co.,  Wis.  It  is  a 
small  stream. 

Minnesota  City,  opposite,  is  the  capital  of  Winona  co.,  Minn.  Settled  in 
1852  by  the  "Western  Farm  and  Village  Association." 

Montoville,  5  miles  below,  in  Trempaleau  co..  Wis. 

Mountain  Island,  is  a  high  rocky  island, and  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
places  on  the  upper  Mississippi.  Its  altitude  has  been  variously  estimated  at  from 
300  to  500  feet,  and,  from  a  distance,  has  the  appearance  of  rising  from  the 
middle  of  the  river.     It  is  a  conspicuous  and  noted  landmark. 

Black  River,  8  miles  below  jNIontoville,  rises  near  the  center  of  Wisconsin, 
It  is  navigable  for  small  boats  about  50  miles.  Before  entering  the  Mississippi, 
it  separates  into  two  branches,  forming  a  delta  of  some  extent. 

Rising  Sun,  4  miles  below,  in  Winona  co.,  Minn. 

Brooklyn,  2  miles  below. 

La  Crosse,  capital  of  La  Crosse  co..  Wis.,  2  miles  below,  is  located  upon  a 
beautiful  prairie  of  the  same  name,  at  the  mouth  of  La  Crosse  river,  and 
contains  a  court-house,  2  churches,  a  land  office,  a  number  of  stores  and  mills, 
and  commands  a  considerable  portion  of  the  lumber  trade  of  La  Crosse  river. 
Population  about  1000. 

Hokah,  or  Root  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Minnesota  3  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  La  Crosse. 


14  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Brownsville,  5  miles  below,  in  Minnesota. 

Racoon  River,  a  t-muU  stream,  flows  into  the  Mississippi  from  Wisconsin, 
5  miles  below. 

Bad  Axe  River,  rises  in  Wisconsin  and  joins  the  Mississippi  6  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  Racoon  river. 

Battle  Field,  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Bad  Axe  rivei-,  in  Bad  Axe 
CO.,  Wis. 

Upper  Iowa  River,  rises  in  Minnesota  and  flows  southerly,  then  north- 
east, through  the  north-eastern  part  of  Iowa,  and  enters  the  Mississippi  a  short 
distance  below  the  mouth  of  Bad  Axe  river,  near  the  boundary  line  between 
Iowa  and  Minnesota. 

Lansing',  15  miles  below,  in  Alamake  co.,  Iowa. 
Lynxville,  8  miles  below,  in  Crawford  co..  Wis. 
Wexford,  Alamake  co.,  Iowa,  is  nearly  opposite  Lynxville. 

Prairie  du  Chien,  capitol  of  Crawford  co..  Wis.,  is  about  100  miles  west  of 
Madison.  It  is  situated  on  the  borders  of  an  extensive  prairie,  and  occupies 
the  site  of  an  old  Indian  village,  from  whose  chief,  called  by  the  French, 
Chien,  it  derives  its  name.  The  town  contains  a  court-house,  a  fine  academy, 
and  several  churches.  There  are  excellent  hunting-grounds  in  the  vicinity  of 
this  place.  The  water  courses  and  marshes  are  covered  with  wild  rice,  which 
the  Indians  gather  for  food.  Numerous  mounds  are  scattered  over  the  land — 
the  remains  of  a  people  whose  history  is  unknown  to  us,  and  whose  existence 
might  have  been  doubted,  had  they  not,  like  the  builders  of  the  pyramids,  left 
these  unmistakable  evidences  of  their  having  "lived,  and  moved,  and  had  a 
being."  The  terminus  of  the  i^Iilwaukee  &  Mississippi  Railroad  is  here.  Pop- 
ulation about  2000.    Prairie  du  Chien  is  10  miles  below  Wexford. 

Fort  Crawford,  1  mile  below  Prairie  du  Chien,  in  the  same  county. 
Fort  Atkinson,  Iowa,  near  the  head  waters  of  Turkey  river,  is  nearly  due  west 
from  this  station. 

Wisconsin  River,  enters  the  Mississippi,  from  Wisconsin,  3  miles  below. 
(See  page  68.) 

Cincinnati,  Grant  co.,  Wis.,  7  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wisconsin 
river. 

Kilroy,  opposite  Cincin.,  in  Clayton  co.,  Iowa. 

Clayton,  2  miles  below,  in  the  county  of  same  name,  Iowa.  Lead  mines 
are  worked  near  this  place. 

Mendota,  Grant  co..  Wis.,  7  miles  below. 

Guttenburg,  formerly  Prairie  du  Fort,  5  miles  below,  in  Clayton  co., 
lo.,  is  a  thriving  village.  It  is  situated  on  a  high  blufi".  Rich  lead  mines  are 
worked  in  this  neighborhood. 

Cassville,  Grant  co..  Wis.,  6  miles  below.  A  large  quantity  of  lead  is 
gbippod  at  this  point,  from  mines  in  the  vicinity.     Population  about  300. 

Turkey  River  rises  in  Iowa,  and  after  a  course  of  150  mile.s,  passing 
diagonally  through  Clayton  co.,  enters  the  Mississippi,  opposite  Cassville.  It  is 
not  navigable  for  steamboats. 

Frankford,  Clayton  co.,  Ic,  is  a  small  village  at  tbe  mouth  of  Turkey  river. 

Buena  Vista,  Clayton  Co.,  lo.,  5  miles  below. 

Potosi,  12  miles  below,  in  Grant  co.,  Wis.,  on  Grant  river,  near  its  mouth, 


THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER.  15 

Lead  abounds  in  this  region.  Potosi  is  an  important  and  flourishing  town, 
having  a  large  trade.     Population  about  3000. 

Peru,  Dubuque  co.,  lo.,  7  miles  below,  near  the  mouth  of  Little  Makoquette 
river. 

Sinapee,  Grant  co.,  Wis.,  2  miles  below. 

Jamestown,   1  mile  below,  in  the  same  county. 

Dubuque,  capitol  of  Dubuque  co.,  lo.,  5  miles  below.  It  is  situated  on 
a  gently  sloping  prairie,  in  one  of  the  ricliest  lead  districts  in  the  world.  It 
contains  a  land  office,  0  or  8  churches,  4  printing  offices,  2  banks,  several  large 
hotels,  a  court-house,  a  number  of  stores,  and  workshops  of  all  descriptions. 
The  branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway,  passing  through  Galena,  terminates 
here.  It  is  the  terminus,  also,  of  the  Dubuque  &  Keokuk  Railroad.  The  town 
was  settled  by  the  French  and  Canadians,  about  1784.     Population  about  9000. 

Dunleith,    opposite  Dubuque,  in  Jo  Daviess  co.,  Jll. 

Fevre  River,  a  small,  sluggish  stream,  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  from 
111.,  15  miles  below.     It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  to  Galena,  duriua;  most 

7  C  7  O 

of  the  year.  On  account  of  the  narrowness  of  this  stream,  large  boats  have 
difficulty  in  getting  up  and  down. 

Galena,  Jo  Daviess  co..  111.,  is  situated  on  Fevre  river,  seven  miles  from 
its  mouth.  It  is  located  near  the  center  of  a  rich  lead  district,  extending,  on 
both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  from  the  Wisconsin  to  the  vicinity  of  Rock  river. 
It  derives  its  name  from  galena,  a  kind  of  lead  ore  found  in  the  vicinity.  In 
1822,  the  process  of  smelting  was  first  commenced  ;  since  that  time  there  has 
been  as  high  as  10,000,000  of  pounds  smelted  in  one  year.  The  ore  lies  in  hor- 
izontal strata,  varying  in  thickness  from  a  few  inches  to  several  feet,  and  yields 
75  per  cent  of  pure  lead.  Galena  was  first  settled  in  1826,  and  was  then  an 
outpost  in  the  wilderness.  An  immense  amount  of  business  is  now  transacted 
here,  as  it  is  a  place  of  import  and  export  for  the  products  of  a  very  extensive 
and  fertile  region.  There  are  several  churches,  8  printing  offices,  a  number  of 
extensive  manufactories,  including  mills,  (flouring  and  saw  mills,)  sheet  lead 
inanufiictories,  &c.,  &c.  Population  about  9000.  The  Chicago  &  Galena  Rail 
road  has  a  terminus  here,  and  a  branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  passes 
through. 

Moselle,  in  same  county,  6  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Fevre  river. 

Bellevue,  nearly  opposite  Moselle,  is  the  county  seat  of  Jackson  co.,  lo. 
It  is  a  thriving  place,  beautifully  situated  on  a  high  blufi".  It  has  a  fine  lauding, 
and  a  splendid  farming  region  in  the  interior. 

Makoqueta  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Iowa,  8  miles  below.     It 
furnishes  a  large  amount  of  water-power.     Its  whole  length  is  about  100  miles. 
Portsmouth,  Carroll  co..  111.,  5  miles  below. 

Savannah,  Carroll  co..  III.,  8  miles  below,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth 
of  Plum  creek.  It  contains  a  court-house,  jail  and  a  number  of  stores 
Population  about  1000. 

Sahula,  Clinton  co.,  lo.,  4  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Lyons,  Clinton  co.,  lo.,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  15  miles  below. 

Fulton  City,  Whiteside  co.,  111.,  is  a  flourishing  village  nearly  opposite 
Lyons. 

Albany,  Whiteside  co.,  1,11.,  7  miles  below,  has  an  active  trade.  Population 
about  800. 

Camanche,  Clinton  co.,  lo.,  nearly  opposite  Albany,  is  a  lively  business 
place.     Population  about  200. 


16  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Wapsipinecon  River,  rises  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  Iowa,  and  after  a 
"windiug  course  of  about  200  niilos,  enters  the  Mississippi  7  miles  below  Camauche. 
It  afi'onls  excellent  water-power  for  mills. 

Cordova,  Kock  Island  co.,Ill.,  4  miles  below. 

Princeton,  Scott  co.,  lo.,  1  mile  below. 

Parkhurst,  5  miles  below,  in  the  same  county. 

Port  Byron,  llock  Island  co.,  111.,  a  small  town,  1  mile  below,  is  near  the 
head  of  the  upper  rapids. 

Le  Claire,  Scott  co.,  lo.,  1  mile  below,  is  a  thriving  village. 

Hampton,  llock  Island  co.,  111.,  5  miles  below,  it  has  considerable  trade 
in  earthenware.     Population  about  300. 

Davenport,  county  seat  of  Scott  co.,  lo.,  12  miles  below,  is  one  of  the 
most  iiourishiug  cities  on  the  upper  Mississippi.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
upper  rapids  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  region  of  country.  Stone  coal  is  found  iu 
the  vicinity.  Davenport  was  settled  in  1837.  It  now  contains  a  number  of 
flouring  and  saw  mills,  over  100  stores,  many  important  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, 8  or  10  churches  and  3  or  4  printing  oihces.  Population  about  GOOO. 
A  splendid  rail-road  bridge  crosses  the  Mississippi  at  this  point.  The  terminus 
of  the  Davenport  and  Missouri  Railroad  is  here.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of 
Davenport  is  very  beautiful.  The  town  stands  on  an  elevated  plain  with  a  range 
of  hills  in  the  background. 

Rock  Island,  is  the  name  given  a  large  island  in  the  Mississippi  just  below 
Davenport.  Fort  Armstrong,  an  old  U.  S.  Blockhouse  in  the  time  of  Black 
Hawk's  wars  is  on  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Island,  it  stands  upon  a  rock, 
near  twenty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river.  There  is  a  recess  in  this  rock 
called  Black  Haiclcs  Cave,  where,  it  is  said,  he  often  concealed  himself.  It  was 
here  that  Col.  Davenport  was  murdered,  July,  1845,  by  a  party  of  lawless  wretch- 
es. The  Mississippi  at  this  point  is  very  rapid;  it  falls  21  feet  10  inches  in  the 
distance  of  15  miles.  Ledges  of  rock  extend  across  the  river,  and,  at  low  water, 
greatly  obstruct  the  navigation. 

The  country  around  Rock  Island  is  exceedingly  rich.  It  consists  mostly  of 
prairie  land,  rising  in  a  succession  of  little  knolls,  which  at  a  distance,  appear  like 
the  swells  of  the  ocean,  as  it  rolls  about  the  verdant  islands  of  the  East.  After 
leaving  the  river,  the  land  rises  gradually  into  a  chain  of  rounded  hills,  thinly 
covered  with  trees.     The  Indians  regard  this  as  their  promised  land. 

Moline,  Rock  Island  co..  111.,  is  a  thriving  manufacturing  village  opposite 
the  head  of  Rock  Island,  and  has  considerable  water-power  from  the  rapids  of 
the  river. 

Rock  Island  City,  3  miles  below,  opposite  the  foot  of  Rock  Island,  is  the 
capital  of  Rock  Island  co.,  111.  A  number  of  extensive  manufactories  are 
carried  on  here,  having  the  advantages  of  excellent  water-power.  It  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Chicago  &  Rock  Island  Railroad.     Population  about  4500. 

Rock  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  2  miles  below  Rock  Island  city,  from 
Illinois.     (See  p;ige  G8.) 

Buffalo,  Scott  CO.,  lo.,  5  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Rock  river. 

Andalusia,  Rock  Island  co..  111.,  nearly  opposite  Buffalo. 

Iowa,  Muscatine  co.,  Ic,  8  miles  below. 

Fairport,  7  miles  below  in  the  same  county. 

Muscatine,  6  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Muscatine  co.,  lo.,  is  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  towns  in  the  State.  Iowa  city  is  32  miles  north-west.  Musca- 
tine was  laid  oSt  in  1836,  being  previously  an  Indian  trading  post.     It  is  the 


THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER.  17 

phipping  point  for  a  large  and  fertile  region  of  country.  It  contains  a  fine  court- 
house, 9  or  10  churches,  3  printing  offices,  7  hotels,  a  large  number  of  stores  and 
warehouses,  2  steam  flouring  and  2  steam  saw  mills.     Population  about  5500. 

Port  Louisa,  Louisa  co.,  lo.,  16  miles  below. 

New  Boston,  10  miles  below,  in  Mercer  co.,  III.,  is  a  thriving  village 
with  an  active  trade,  it  has  a  good  landing,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  country. 
Population  about  800, 

Iowa  Elver,  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Iowa,  just  below  New  Boston. 
(See  page  69.) 

Keithsburg,  county  scat  of  Mercer  county.  111.,  7  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  Iowa  river,  is  a  flourishing  village.  Large  amounts  of  produce  are  shipped 
from  here.     It  is  a  good  landing  place.     Population  about  600. 

Huron,  Dcs  Moines  co.,  lo.,  9  miles  below. 

Oquawka,  capitol  of  Henderson  co..  111.,  10  miles  below,  is  a  place  of 
active  business.  It  contains  2  or  3  printing  offices,  a  court-house,  a  number  of 
stores,  and  a  population  of  about  1200. 

Burlington,  15  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Des  Moines  co.,  lo.,  and 
before  1839  was  the  capitol  of  the  State.  The  river  here  is  a  broad  and 
beautiful  stream.  The  town  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  partly  on  high  ground, 
overlooking  delightful  scenery.  Burlington  contains  a  number  of  fine  churches, 
schools,  academics,  &c.,  4  printing  offices,  and  a  large  number  of  business  houses, 
mills,  foundries,  manufactories  of  diflerent  kinds,  extensive  pork  packing  houses, 
«fec.  Population  about  8000.  The  terminus  of  the  Burlington  &  Peoria  Rail- 
road is  here  ;  also,  the  Burlington  &  Missouri  Railroad. 

Skunk  River,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  8  miles  below  Burlington,  from 
Iowa.  It  rises  near  the  center  of  the  State,  and  furnishes  extensive  water- 
power  through  a  rich  region  of  country. 

Pontoosue,  7  miles  below,  in  Hancock  co.,  111.,  is  a  flourishing  village, 
surrounded  by  a  fertile  country.     Population  about  600. 

Appanoose,  5  miles  below  in  same  county. 

Fort  Madison,  county  seat  of  Lee  co.,  lo.,  3  miles  below.  It  became  a  ■ 
town  in  1835;  since  that  time  it  has  increased  rapidly.  The  town  occupies  the 
site  of  an  old  fortification,  built  in  1808,  as  a  defense  against  the  Indians,  who, 
.in  1813,  obliged  the  garrison  to  abandon  and  bui-n  the  fort.  It  contains  a 
handsome  court-house,  a  number  of  elegant  churches,  the  Iowa  Penitentiary, 
several  spacious  hotels,  and  is  largely  engaged  in  various  branches  of  manufac- 
turing and  trade.  There  are  2  or  3  printing  offices  here,  and  it  is  a  ship- 
ping point  for  large  quantities  of  produce,  and  an  extensive  lumber  depot.  Pop- 
ulation about  3500. 

Nauvoo,  8  miles  below,  in  Hancock  co  ,  111.,  the  sacred  city  of  the  Mormons, 
is  the  most  remarkable  city  in  the  Union.  It  is  situated  on  a  high  slope, 
elevated  several  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river.  The  location  is  one  of  the 
best  in  the  West.  The  land  was  purchased  by  the  Mormons,  and  the  city  laid 
out  in  1840,  under  the  direction  of  Joe  Smith.  It  was  12  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence— streets  regular,  crossing  each  other  at  right-angles.  The  dwellings  were 
mostly  plain,  with  the  exception  of  the  Great  Temple,  which  was  one  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  the  West ;  it  was  130  feet  long,  88  feet  wide,  65  feet  to  the  top  of 
the  cornice,  and  163  to  the  top  of  the  cupola,  and  cost  over  half  a  million  of 
dollars.  It  was  designed  to  accommodate  a  congregation  of  3,000  persons.  The 
basement  of  the  temple  contained  the  hapthtry,  or  brazen  sea,  in  which  new 
converts  were  baptized.  This  pool  was  supported  by  twelve  gilded,  colossal  oxen, 
2 


18  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

and  was  designed  to  imitate  the  brazen  sea  of  Solomon.  In  the  erection  of  this 
magnificent  structure,  most  of  the  male  population  were  engaged.  Each  one 
considered  it  his  duty  to  contribute  as  far  as  he  was  able,  believing  he  was  erect- 
ing a  temple  which  would  stand  till  the  end  of  time.  The  Mormons,  supposing 
themselves  the  true  Latter  Day  Saints,  into  whose  hands  the  earth  would  soon 
pass,  did  not,  at  all  times,  pay  a  due  regard  to  the  rights  and  privileges  of  others. 
This  constantly  brought  them  into  difiSculty ;  and  though  often  in  fault,  yet  they 
were  persecuted  beyond  measure.  Smith  and  others  of  his  sect  were  arrested 
and  thrown  into  prison,  where,  in  June,  1844,  they  were  murdered  by  a  lawless 
mob,  without  even  the  form  of  a  trial.  In  October,  1848,  the  temple  was  fired, 
and  soon  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins.  The  city  is  now  in  the  hands  of  a  band  of 
French  Socialists.  Only  a  small  number  of  the  dwellings  are  occupied — the 
Mormon  population,  which  at  one  time  exceeded  15000,  removed  to  Utah, 
and  built  the  "  Great  Salt  Lake  City."  The  present  population  of  Nauvoo  is 
about  2000. 

The  Mormons  first  appeared  in  the  United  States  about  1830.  Joseph  Smith, 
their  prophet,  pretended  to  have  found  an  addition  to  the  Bible,  engraved  on 
twelve  golden  plates.  After  being  submitted  to  Professor  Anthon,  and  others, 
who  pronounced  the  inscriptions  a  mess  of  jargon,  he,  by  Divine  assistance,  was 
enabled  to  get  a  correct  translation,  which  he  published  under  the  title  of  the 
Booh  of  Mormon. 

Montrose,  nearly  opposite  Nauvoo,  in  Lee  co.,  lo.,  is  situated  on  an  ele- 
vated prairie  which  commands  a  view  of  the  river  and  country  for  20  miles  around; 
Numerous  Indian  mounds,  the  depositories  of  the  ancient  dead,  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  This  town  stands  at  the  head  of  the  Lower  Rapids,  and  is  the  place 
of  reshipping  in  time  of  low  water.     Population  about  1000. 

BTashville,  Lee  co.,  lo.,  is  a  small  village  4  miles  below.  ^ 

Montebello,  Hancock  co..  111.,  6  miles  below. 

Keokuk,  4  miles  below,  in  Lee  co.,  lo.,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Des 
Moines,  or  Lower  rapids,  is  a  place  of  large  business.  In  low  water  large  boats  from 
below  can  not  pass  the  rapids ;  their  freight  is  discharged  at  Keokuk,  conveyed 
to  Montrose,  and  reshipped  on  smaller  boats.  The  fall  of  the  rapids  is  24  feet  in 
12  miles.  Keokuk  stands  upon  a  limestone  rock  formation,  which  affords  an 
excellent  building  material.  The  place  contains  8  or  9  churches,  several  acad- 
emies and  schools,  2  printing  offices,  flouring  mills  and  foundries,  and  a  large 
number  of  stores,  &c.     Population  nearly  6500. 

Hamilton  City,  Hancock  co..  111.,  nearly  opposite  Keokuk. 

Warsaw,  4  miles  below,  in  Hancock  co..  111.,  stands  on  a  high  bluff  at  the 
foot  of  the  rapids,  near  the  site  of  old  Fort  Edwards.  The  situation  is  very 
favorable  for  trade,  and  a  large  business  is  done  in  receiving  and  shipping  mer- 
chandise and  produce.  Warsaw  contains  several  mills,  a  large  number  of  busi- 
ness houses,  and  manufactories.     Population  about  4000. 

Des  Moines  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Iowa,  nearly  opposite 
Warsaw.  (See  page  70.) 

Alexandria,  Clark  co..  Mo.,  on  Fox  river  near  its  entrance  into  the  Missis- 
sippi. 

Fox  Eiver ,  a  small  stream,  rises  in  Daviss  co.,  lo.,  and  entprs  the  Mississippi 
from  Mo.,  about  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  river. 

Des  Moines  City,  6  miles  below,  in  Clark  co..  Mo. 

Tully,  Lewis  co.,  Mo.,  12  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  place.  Large  quan- 
tities of  produce  are  shipped  from  here.     It  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  contains 


•^e/Te^, 


Bloody  I. 


'^■^oujs!ihwf!!nnuoisu>.^ 


MISSISSIPPI 

No    1. 


Fine's  (, 


20  THE  illSBISSIP  PI  RIVER. 

2  or  3  churches,  2  steam  mills,  and  a  number  of  stores.     Population  about  800. 
Laid  out  in  1833. 

Lagrange,  6  miles  below,  in  same  county,  near  the  mouth  of  Wyaconda 
river,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  It  contains  several  churches,  a  college, 
a  flouring  mill,  &c.     Population  about  700. 

ftuincy,  12  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Adams  co.,  111.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  a  beautiful  elevation  125  feet  above  the  Mississippi,  and  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  river  for  5  or  6  miles  in  each  direction.  It  contains  a  largo  pub- 
lic square,  a  good  court-house,  a  land  office,  8  or  10  printing  offices,  about  20 
churches ;  3  banks,  a  number  of  extensive  mills  and  manufactories,  and  a  largo 
number  of  stores  and  commission  houses,  also  foundries,  machine  shops,  distil- 
leries, pork  houses,  &c.  The  country  in  its  vicinity  is  a  beautifully  rolling  and  rich 
prairie,  and  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  regions  in  the  State.  Large  quantities 
of  produce  ai-e  annually  shipped  from  here,  by  steamboats  and  other  craft,  which 
can  navigate  the  river,  from  this  place  down,  at  any  season  of  the  year.  Popu- 
lation about  12000.     Quincy  is  the  terminus  of  the  Northern  Cross  Railroad. 

Fabin's  Eiver,  enters  the  Mississippi  opposite  Quincy.  Near  its  mouth 
this  river  branches — north  Fabin's  and  south  Fabin's — the  sources  of  each  branch 
being  about  150  miles  from  the  point  where  they  unite.  Neither  branch  is  nav- 
igable for  steamboats. 

Marion  City,  7  miles  below,  in  Marion  co..  Mo.,  is  a  thriving  village  and 
the  shipping  port  for  the  interior.  The  soil  of  this  county  is  very  rich,  and 
abounds  in  fine  timber,  bituminous  coal,  salt  springs,  and  lead. 

Aston,  opposite  Marion  city,  in  Adams  co..  111. 

Booneville,  3  miles  below,  in  same  county. 

Hannibal,  Marion  co..  Mo.,  7  miles  below,  is  a  shipping  port  for  large 
quantities  of  pork,  hemp,  tobacco  and  other  produce  raised  in  the  vicinity.  Stone 
coal  and  an  excellent  limestone  for  building  purposes  are  abundant  near  the  place. 
Hannibal  is  the  terminus  of  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad.  It  contains 
a  large  number  of  stores  and  warehouses,  2  or  3  printing  offices  and  a  population 
of  about  3800. 

Dayton,  opposite  Hannibal,  in  Adams  co.,  111. 

Saverton,  8  miles  below,  in  Ralls  co..  Mo. 

Salt  River,  empties  into  the  Mississippi  18  miles  below.  Three  branches 
of  this  river  —  the  north,  middle,  and  south  forks — unite  at  Florida,  Monroe 
CO.,  Mo.,  about  85  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  form  the  main  stream,  to  which 
point  it  is  navigable  for  small  steamers. 

Cincinnati,  Ralls  co.,  Mo.,  is  on  Salt  river,  about  20  miles  below  Florida. 

Louisiana,  Pike  co.,  Mo.,  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Salt  river,  contains 
a  number  of  stores  and  warehouses,  and  2  printing  offices.  Population  about 
1000. 

Clarksville,  12  miles  below,  in  same  county. 

Hamburgh,  15  miles  below,  in  Calhoun  co.,  111.,  is  a  flourishing  town.  It 
has  a  good  landing,  and  employs  considerable  capital  in  mercantile  and  manufac- 
turing pursuits.     Population  800. 

Gilead,  Calhoun  co.,  111.,  9  miles  below,  is  situated  a  short  distance  from 
the  river.     It  was  formerly  the  county  seat.     Population  about  800. 

Riviere  au  Cuivre,  a  small  stream,  enters  the  Mississippi,  from  Mo.,  15 
miles  below  Gilead. 

Deer  Plain,  12  miles  below,  in  Calhoun  co.   Mo. 


^JS-^^^^.v 


22  THE  MISSISSIPPI  IIIVER. 

Illinois  River,  enters    the  Mississippi  6  miles  below  Deer    Plain.     (Sec 
page  71.) 

Craft  on,  Jersey  co.,  111.,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  river,  is  a  small 
village.      Population  about  350. 

Portage  des  Sioux,  St.  Charles  co.^  Mo.,  7  miles  below. 

Randolph,  4  miles  below,  in  Jersey  co.,  111. 

Alton,  7  miles  below,  in  Madison  co.,  111.,  was  laid  out  in  1818.  Up  to  the 
year  1832,  it  contained  only  a  few  houses  and  a  steam  mill.  In  that  year,  the 
Penitentiary  of  the  State  was  erected  here.  After  which  it  improved  rapidly,  and 
many  fine  buildings  were  put  up.  It  is  handsomely  laid  out  in  wide,  beautiful 
streets,  and  contains  6  or  8  churches,  a  lyeeum  and  theological  seminary,  and  a 
lar<^e  number  of  stores,  commission  houses,  pork  houses  and  manufactories.  It 
is  fovorably  situated  for  trade,  and  has  an  excellent  landing.  Alton  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Chicago  and  Mississippi  Railroad,  also  of  the  Terre  Haute  &  Alton 
Railroad.  Population  about  5000.  This  city  is  surrounded,  for  several  miles  in 
extent,  with  one  of  the  finest  bodies  of  timber  in  the  State.  Bituminous  coal 
exists  in  creat  abundance  only  a  short  distance  from  the  town.  Inexhaustible  beds 
of  limest^one,  for  building  purposes,  and  easily  quarried,  are  within  its  precincts. 
A  species  of  freestone,  easily  dressed,  and  used  for  monuments  and  architectural 
purposes,  and  that  peculiar  species  of  lime,  used  for  water-cement,  are  found  in 
great  abundance,  in  the  vicinity.  The  corporate  bounds  extend  2  mile  along 
the  river,  and  half-a-mile  back.  The  city  plat  was  laid  out,  by  the  proprietors, 
upon  a  liberal  scale.  There  are  5  squares  reserved  for  public  purposes,  and  a 
large  reservation  was  made  on  the  river  for  a  public  lauding  and  promenade. 

Missouri  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  5  miles  below  Alton.    (See  page  73.) 

Chippewa,  1  mile  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri  river,  in  Madison  co.,  111. 

Madison,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Venice,  in  same  co.,  8  miles  below. 

Bremen,  2  miles  below,  in  St.  Louis  co.,  Mo. 

St.  Louis,  4  miles  below,  was  selected  by  Mr.  Laclede  (the  manager  for  a 

company  of  merchants,  who 
had  obtained  the  monopoly 
of  the  Indian  fur  trade,  on 
the  Mississippi  and  Missouri 
rivers),  as  a  depot  for  their 
merchandise.     Mr.  Laclede, 

after  examining   numerous 

BT.^^o™S^Ni..  points   on  tbe   Mississippi, 

foresaw  and  predicted  the  future  importance  of  the  town,  to  ^^^^^^l?.^^  .f!^^  ^^^ 
nameTf  St.  Louis,  in  honor  of  Louis  XV  of  France,  and  in  Dec.  1  -  63  he  had  a 
poSn  of  the  ground,  on  which  it  stands,  cleared,  and  returned  to  Fort  Chartres  to 
make  preparati^on  for  the  establishment  of  his  new  colony.  He  was  accompanied  m 
Ss  vis't  by  two  young  Creoles  of  xNew  Orleans,  Augustus  and  Pierre  Chouteau, 
whom  le  despltched,  in  the  February  following,  with  men  and  materials  to  com- 
plete the  settkment.'  During  the  summer  of  1764,  many  of  the  French  from 
?he  Vic  nirof  Fort  ChartresT  removed  to  St.  Louis.  This  emigration  was  soon 
checkeT  Ify   tbe    cession    of'  that  territory  to  the  King  of  Spain.     It  was  no 

^=d^i;3^i^^  t:::tr^^  ^^:^^ 

large  body  of    Indians,  numbering    from  900  to   i5UU.        ine   womeu  auv» 


St.  Otntvive  \ 


St.  Generhre  I 


jiaskaskia 


i\  ' 


Saline  Cr. 


Horse  I. 


\m  Chester. 


Mary '8  R. 


Port  Perry.  *»iN 


MISSISSIPPI 
NO.  3. 


jf^ 


A^  %&\ 


ttl    ■!  liberty. 


Lacoaraee  I 


^  Hat  1. 


Wittenberg. « 


34  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

children  who  could  not  take  part  in  the  defense,  took  shelter  in  the  house  of 
Auguste  Chouteau,  whilst  all  those,  both  men  and  women,  who  wore  within  the 
palisades,  cornmeuced  so  vigorous  a  resistance,  that  the  enemy  was  forced  to 
retreat.  But,  with  their  characteristic  ferocity,  threw  themselves  upon  those  of 
the  inhabitants,  who  engaged  in  the  cultivation  of  their  lields,  had  not  time  to 
reach  tlie  palisades,  and  it  is  said  that  GO  were  killed  and  13  made  prisoners. 
The  year  this  attack  took  place  is  called  by  the  French,  "  V  Anec  du  Grand 
Coup — the  year  of  the  great  blow." 

After  this,  the  inhabitants  finding  their  garrison  insufficient  to  protect  them, 
sent  Mr.  A.  Chouteau  to  New  Orleans  for  assistance.  Cruzat  was  made  com- 
mander of  St.  Louis,  and  a  wooden  fort  erected  on  the  most  elevated  spot 
within  the  city,  upon  which  several  heavy  pieces  of  ordnance  were  mounted,  and 
still  later,  4  stone  turrets  were  added,  from  which  cross  fires  could  be  kept  up. 
No  traces  of  this  fortification  are  now  to  be  seen. 

St.  Louis  is  the  capitol  of  St.  Louis  co.,  Mo.,  and  the  largest  town  in  the 
State,  situated  in  Lat.  38°  37'  north.  It  rests  on  a  bed  of  limestone  rising  from 
20  to  60  feet  above  the  floods  of  the  Mississippi.  At  this  elevation  an  extensive 
plain  opens  to  view.  The  city  extends  along  the  river  6  or  7  miles.  Some  of 
the  prominent  buildings  of  St.  Louis  are,  a  splendid  court-house,  erected  at  a 
cost  of  over  half  a  million  of  dollars,  the  Planter's  House,  United  States  Hotel, 
Virginia  Hotel,  Missouri  tlotel.  City  Hospital,  Marine  Hospital,  Home  for  the 
Friendless,  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitarian),  Catholic  Cathedral,  St.  George's, 
Church  (Episcopal),  and  the  U.  S.  Arsenal.  St.  Louis  contains  about  60 
churches,  of  difi'erent  denominations,  the  University  of  St.  Louis,  the  Missouri 
University,  a  Mercantile  Library  Association,  in  a  very  flourishing  condition, 
with  a  large  and  increasing  library  and  fine  reading  room.  The  public  schools 
receive  the  special  attention  of  the  citizens ;  a  large  number  of  pupils  are  in 
daily  attendance,  and  the  seminaries  and  private  schools  are,  also,  well 
patronized.  There  are  some  25  or  30  printing  offices  in  St.  Louis,  a  number  of 
them  issuing  daily,  tri-weekly,  and  weekly  newspapers,  with  a  large  circulation. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  water,  from  reservoirs,  forced  up  from  the  river  by 
stationary  engines,  and  distributed  through  iron  pipes. 

The  location  of  St.  Louis,  for  commerce,  is  second  to  none  in  the  West.  It 
is  the  center  of  an  immense  and  fertile  region,  watered  by  the  largest  rivers  in 
the  world.  There  are  a  vast  number  of  steamboats  in  its  trade,  many  of  them 
of  the  largest  class,  navigating  the  rivers  from  near  the  Alleghany  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  from  the  northern  lakes  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  flouring, 
the  pork  packing,  and  the  sugar  refining  business,  are  carried  on  here  very  exten- 
sively, and  a  great  number  of  important  manufacturing  establishments  on  a  large 
scale.  The  terminus  of  the  St.  Louis  and  Pacific  Kailroad,  is  here ;  and  the 
Ohio  &  Mississippi  Railroad,  and  others,  have  their  terminus  in  Illinois, 
opposite. 

The  population  of  the  city  has  increased  rapidly  :  in  1810,  it  was  less  than 
2000;  in  1830,  it  was  7000  3  in,  1840,  it  was  16000;  in  1845,  35,000;  in 
1850,  70000 ;  in  1852,  about  90000,  and  it  is  now  estimated  at  over  100,000. 

Illinoistown,  St.  Clair  co.,  111.,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  opposite 
St.  Louis,  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  Ohio  &  Mississippi  Railroad.  Popula- 
tion about  600. 

Cahokia,  4  miles  below,  in  St.  Clair  co..  111.,  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlementw 
in  the  State.  It  was  occupied  by  the  Caoquias,  a  tribe  of  Illinois  Indians,  long 
before  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi.  The  French  settled  on  it  shortly  after 
La  Salle  descended  the  Mississippi,  probably  about  the  year  1683.  In  1766,  it 
contained  40  families,  and  now  about  50.  The  majority  of  the  houses  are  built 
of  pickets,  one  story  high,  having  piazzas  on  each  side,  and,  being  white-washed, 


Dunkins  Bar 


ObrazoR 


Grand  Tower 


ils  bakt  oven 


Breeseville. 


Sandy  I. 


Muddy  R. 

MISSISSIPPI. 
No.  4. 


BirmvBgham.  *ft 


'^Pe  Q 


''"^"''iii 


f'  Hamburg 


DevUs  Is. 


Sew  "fort 


HThebea. 


26  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

present  a  pleasant  appearance.  The  inhabitants  are  principally  French.  By 
an  act  of  Congress,  passed  in  1788,  a  grant  of  400  acres  of  land,  adjoining  the 
village,  was  made  to  each  family.  The  situation  is  somewhat  elevated,  but  un- 
healthy, and  Americans  seldom  pass  a  season  in  it  without  suffering  from  the 
miasma  of  the  surrounding  ponds.     Stone  coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity. 

Carondalet,  St.  Louis  co.,  Mo.,  formerly  called  Vide  Poche  (empty  pocket), 
1  mile  below,  is  a  small  village  principally  occupied  by  the  French,  who  supply 
ve<^ctablc8  for  the  St.  Louis  market.     It  was  settled  in  1767. 

Jefferson  Barracks,  St.  Louis  co.,  5  miles  below,  is  one  of  the  most  cxten- 
sive  U.  S.  military  establishments  in  the  West,  and  has  a  large  cavalry  school 
attached,  from  which  the  mounted  troops  upon  the  frontiers  are  supplied. 

Maramec  Eiver,  rises  in  Crawford  and  Washington  counties.  Mo.,  and  flows 
north-east,  then  south-east,  and  enters  the  Mississippi  9  miles  below  Jefferson 
Barracks.     It  is  navigable  some  60  miles. 

Clifton,  10  miles  below,  in  Jefferson  co..  Mo. 

Harrisonville,  2  miles  below,  in  Monroe  co.,  111. 

Herculaneum,  Jefferson  co..  Mo.,  2  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  town.  There 
are  a  number  of  shot  towers  here,  and  in  the  vicinity,  and  being  a  principal  port 
of  the  lead  district,  a  large  amount  of  lead  and  shot  are  annually  exported. — 
Population  700. 

Piatt  in  Rock,  1  mile  below,  in  same  co. 

Selma,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  has  a  good  landing,  and  carries  on  consid- 
erable trade  in  lead.  Shot  are  also  made  here  in  large  quantities.  Population 
about  400. 

Rush  Tower,  4  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Fort  Chartres,  9  miles  below,  in  Randolph  co.,  Ill,  was  an  old  French  fort, 
built  in  1720,  as  a  defence  against  the  Spaniards.  It  was  taken  possession  of 
by  the  English  in  1765  by  virtue  of  the  treaty  of  Fontainbleau.  It  is  now  a 
heap  of  ruins.  The  walls  are  fast  crumbling  away,  and  vines  and  trees  are 
springing  up  around  these  venerable  remains.  This  fort  was  designed  to  be  the 
strongest  on  the  continent:  Its  walls  were  built  of  solid  masonry,  in  quadrangular 
form,  490  feet  in  circumference.  It  was  the  head  quarters  of  the  commandant 
in  upper  Louisiana,  and  the  center  of  fashion  in  the  West. 

St.  Genevieve,  capitol  of  St.  Genevieve  co..  Mo.,  11  miles  below,  is  pleasant- 
ly situated,  and  a  place  of  considerable  business.  It  exports  large  quantities  of 
lead,  iron,  copper,  limestone  and  a  white  silicious  sand,  a  very  fine  article  used 
at  Pittsburgh  and  other  places  for  making  glass.  St.  Genevieve  was  settled  by 
the  French  about  1750.  It  contains  the  usual  county  buildings,  and  2  printing 
offices.  Population  about  2000.  Directly  back  of  this  town,  a  few  miles,  is 
Potosi.  It  is  located  in  the  finest  mineral  district  in  the  United  States.  ^  The  Iron 
Mountain,  the  greatest  natural  curiosity  in  the  West,  is  in  the  vicinity.  This 
mountain  is  said  to  be  an  almost  solid  mass  of  ore. 

St.  Mary's  Landing,  10  miles  below,  in  same  county, is  a  small  village. 
5    Pratt's  Landing,  Perry  co..  Mo.,  2  miles  below,  is  a  small  place. 

Kaskaskia  River,  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Illinois,  3  miles  below.  (Seo 
page  79.)  This  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  great  American  Bottom,  which 
extends  northerly,  on  the  river,  for  80  miles. 

Chester,  Ptandolph  co.,  111.,  1  mile  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kaskaskia  river. 
The  town  is  built  on  an  elevated  bottom,  and  is  the  commercial  depository  of  a 
fine  country.     It  is  a  flourishing  place.     Population  about  1600. 


Commerce.  ^. 


MISSISSIPPI 


New  Phila4elph 


SaldvinsTille.  g: 


Hickman  Cy.,  Ky. 


28  THE   MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Mary's  River,  4  miles  below,  rises  in  Illinois  and  flows  soulli-west  into  the 
Mississippi.     It  is  a  small  stream,  and  not  navigable. 

Port  Perry,  Perry  co.,  Mo.,  3  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Liberty,  Randolph  co.,  111.,  4  miles  below. 

Wittemberg,  17  miles  below,  in  Perry  co.,  Mo. 

Devil's  Bake-oven  and  Grand  Tower,  5  and  6  miles  below.  These 
are  nanios  given  to  a  portion  nf  a  gigantic  range  of  rocks,  rising  to  a  considerable 
height  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  nearly  midway  between  St.  Louis  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Ohio.  The  summits  of  this  range  are  covered  with  vegetation,  which 
looks  smilino-ly  down  upon  the  water  as  it  dashes  against  its  base.  The  cur- 
rent here  is  very  swift;  and  by  its  force  and  constant  wearing  away  of  the 
cliffs,  it  has  Siiparated  a  large  portion,  which  stands,  like  a  gigantic  column  in  the 
midst  of  the  waves.  Such  is  ''  Grand  Tower,"  which  rises  nearly  50  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  river. 

Those  hardy  boatmen,  who  navigated  our  western  waters  before  the  introduc- 
tion of  steam,  dreaded  this  place  more  than  any  other  on  the  river.  The  only 
way  they  could  ascend  the  river,  was  to  pull  their  boats  along  the  Illinois  shore 
by  means  of  ropes.  The  Indians,  who  were  always  on  the  lookout  for  plunder, 
would  conceal  themselves  in  the  bushes,  and,  when  a  fiivorable  opportunity 
offered,  fall  upon  them.  Thus  many  valuable  lives  and  cargoes  were  lost,  in 
attempting  that  which  steam  now  performs  in  perfect  safety. 

Breeseville,  Jackson  co.,  111.,  2  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Muddy  River,  4  miles  below,  rises  in  Illinois  and  flows  south-west  into  the 
Mississippi.     It  is  navigable  only  for  a  short  distance. 

Birmingham,  4  miles  below,  in  Cape  Girardeau  co.,  Mo.,  near  the  mouth 
of  Apple  creek,  is  a  small  village. 

Union  Point,  opposite  Birmingham,  in  Union  co..  111. 

Devil's  Tea-table  and  Cornice  Rocks,  3  miles  below,  are  great 
natural  curiosities.  The  water  has  worn  the  rocks  into  regular  shapes,  representing 
continuous  rows  of  cornice  work  and  other  architectural  devices  of  the  greatest 
beauty,  which  hang  majestically  over  the  river. 

Bainbridge,  6  miles  below,  in  Cape  Girardeau  co..  Mo. 

Hamburg,  Union  co.,  III.,  opposite  Bainbridge. 

Cape  Girardeau,  in  the  county  of  the  same  name,  10  miles  below.  It  has 
a  number  of  good  stores  and  mills,  2  academies,  3  schools,  and  1  convent.  It 
is  the  seat  of  St.  Mary's  college,  founded  in  1830  j  which  now  has  a  president, 
5  professors,  and  a  library  of  2500  volumes.  Population  1500.  The  country 
around  it  is  very  fertile,  and  thickly  inhabited,  for  forty  or  fifty  miles  back,  to 
the  New  Madrid  settlements. 

Thebes,  9  miles  below,  capital  of  Alexander  co.,  111. 

New  York,  nearly  opposite  Thebes,  in  Scott  co..  Mo. 

Commerce,  3  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  contains  a  number  of  stores.  It  haa 
considerable  trade,  and  a  fine  region  of  country  back.     Population  about  400. 

New  Philadelphia,  7  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Ohio  City,  Mississippi  co.,  Mo.,  21  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  plaee, 
nearly  opposite  Cairo  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river. 

Ohio  River,  and  Cairo — (See  pages  88  and  122.) 


ron  Banks 


MISSISSIPPI 

No.  6. 


Ft.  Pleasant::;^ 


30  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  BIVER. 

Island  No.  1,  6  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  opposite  which,  in 
Kcntuclcy,  a  .short  distance  from  the  river,  are  the  remains  of  Fort  Jeiferson, 
erected  by  Gen.  George  Rogers  Clark,  in  the  spring  of  1780.  This  fort  was 
built  by  order  of  Gov.  Jcficrson,  of  Virginia,  in  order  to  protect  the  navigation 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  secure  it  to  that  State,  in  which  this  territory  was  then 
included. 

Norfolk,  Mississippi  co.,  Mo.,  opposite  Island  No.  1. 

Bickwith's,  7  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Bald  wins  ville,  5  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  place.  Population 
about  200. 

Columbus,  4  miles  below,  capitol  of  Ballard  co.,  Ky.  It  contains  several 
extensive  warehouses,  aud  a  population  of  about  GOO.  Just  above  it  are  the 
Iron  banks,  extending  along  the  river,  on  the  same  side,  for  about  2  miles.  They 
derive  the  name  from  the  color  of  the  banks  resembling  iron  rust. 

Hickman,  formerly  Mills  Point,  county  seat  of  Fulton  co.,  Ky.,  20  miles 
below,  is  a  flourishing  town.  It  contains  10  or  12  stores,  and  commission  and 
forwarding  houses,  2  or  3  churches,  a  printing  office,  a  large  tobacco  stemery,  and 
a  bank.  Large  quantities  of  tobacco,  corn,  cotton,  cattle,  poultry,  &c.,  are 
annually  shipped  from  here,  it  being  the  depot  for  the  products  of  a  large  and 
fertile  section  of  country.  It  is  the  starting  point  for  the  stage  route  to 
Nashville.     Population  about  600. 

New  Madrid,  44  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  New  Madrid  co.,  Mo. 
It  carries  on  a  large  trade  in  shipping  produce,  cattle,  lumber,  &c.  It  has  a 
printing  office  and  a  population  of  about  500.  This  point  was  the  scene  of  a 
violent  earthquake  in  1811.  The  following  account  of  it  is  from  the  pen  of 
Dr.  Ilildreth  of  Marietta,  0.,  and  published  in  Perkins'  Annals  of  the  West. 

"  The  center  of  its  violence  was  thought  to  be  near  the  Little  Prairie,  25  or  30 
miles  below  New  Madrid — the  vibrations  from  which  were  felt  all  over  the  valley 
of  the  Ohio,  as  high  up  as  Pittsburgh.  *  *  *  *  New  Madrid,  having  suffered 
more  than  any  other  town  on  the  Mississippi  from  its  effects,  was  considered  as  situ- 
ated near  the  focus,  from  whence  the  undulations  proceeded.  From  an  eye-witness, 
who  was  then  about  40  miles  below  that  town,  in  a  flat-boat,  on  his  way  to  New 
Orleans,  with  a  load  of  produce,  and  who  narrated  the  scene  to  me,  the  agitation 
which  convulsed  the  earth  and  the  waters  of  the  mighty  Mississippi,  filled  every 
living  creature  with  horror.  The  first  shock  took  place  in  the  night  (Dec.  1 G,  1811), 
while  the  boat  was  lying  at  the  shore,  in  company  with  several  others.  At  this 
period,  there  was  danger  apprehended  from  the  Southern  Indians,  it  being  soon 
after  the  battle  of  Tippecanoe,  and  for  safety  several  boats  kept  in  company,  for 
mutual  defense,  in  case  of  an  attack.  In  the  middle  of  the  night,  there  was  a 
terrible  shock  and  jarring  of  the  boats,  so  that  the  crews  were  all  awakened,  and 
hurried  on  deck,  with  their  weapons  of  defense  in  their  hands,  thinking  the 
Indians  were  rushing  on  board.  The  ducks,  geese,  swans,  and  various  other 
aquatic  birds,  whose  numberless  flocks  were  quietly  resting  in  the  eddies  of  the 
river,  were  thrown  into  the  greatest  tumult,  and,  with  loud  screams,  expressed 
their  alarms  in  accents  of  terror.  The  noise  and  commotion  soon  became  hushed, 
-  and  nothing  could  be  discovered  to  excite  apprehension  ;  so  that  the  boatmen 
concluded  that  the  shock  was  occasioned  by  the  falling  in  of  a  large  mass  of  the 
bank  of  the  river  near  them.  As  soon  as  it  was  light  enough  to  distinguish  ob- 
jects, the  crews  were  all  up,  making  ready  to  depart.  Directly  a  loud  roaring 
and  hissing  was  heard,  like  the  escape  of  steam  from  a  boiler,  accompanied  by 
the  most  Violent  agitation  of  the  shores,  and  tremendous  boiling  up  of  the  waters 
of  the  Mississippi,  in  huge  swells  rolling  the  waters  below,  back  on  the  descend- 
ing stream,  and  tossing  the  boats  about  so  violently  that  the  men,  with  difficulty, 


lUddle'a 


Obion  Cy.,  Tenn. 


Dyer  Cy.,  Tenxi 


32  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

could  keep  their  feet.  The  sand-bars  and  points  of  the  islands  gave  way,  swal- 
lowed up  in  the  tumultuous  bosom  of  the  river,  carrying  down  with  them  the 
cotton-wood  trees,  cracking  and  crashing,  tossing  their  arras  to  and  fro,  as  if 
Bensible  of  their  danger,  while  they  disappeared  beneath  the  flood.  The  water  of 
the  river,  which,  the  day  before,  was  tolerably  clear,  being  rather  low,  changed 
to  a  reddish  hue,  and  became  thick  with  mud,  thrown  up  from  its  bottom;  while 
the  surface,  lashed  violently  by  the  agitation  of  the  earth  beneath,  was  covered 
with  foam,  which,  gathering  into  masses  the  size  of  a  barrel,  floated  along  on  the 
trembling  surface.  The  earth  on  the  shores  opened  in  wide  fissures,  and,  clo^^ing 
again,  threw  the  water,  sand,  and  mud,  in  huge  jets,  higher  than  the  tops  of  the 
trees.  The  atmosphere  was  filled  with  a  thick  vapor,  or  gas,  to  which  the  light 
imparted  a  purple  tinge,  altogether  different,  in  appearance,  from  the  autumnal 
haze  of  Indian  summer,  or  that  of  smoke.  From  the  temporary  check  to  the 
current,  by  the  heaving  up  of  the  bottom,  the  sinking  of  the  banks  and  sand-bars 
into  tlie  bed  of  the  stream,  the  river  rose,  in  a  few  minutes  5  or  6  feet;  and,  im- 
patient of  the  restraint,  again  rushed  forward  witli  redoubled  impetuosity, 
hurrying  along  the  boats,  now  set  loose  by  the  horror-struck  boatmen,  as  in  less 
danger  on  the  water  than  at  the  shore,  where  the  banks  threatened  every  moment 
to  destroy  them  by  the  falling  earth,  or  carry  them  down  in  the  vortices  of  the 
sinking  masses.  Many  boats  were  overwhelmed  in  this  manner,  and  their  crews 
perished  with  them.  It  required  the  utmost  exertions  of  the  men,  to  keep  the 
boat,  of  which  my  informant  was  the  owner,  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  as  far 
from  the  shores,  sand-bars,  and  islands,  as  they  could.  Numerous  boats  were 
wrecked  on  the  snags  and  old  trees  thrown  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  Mississippi, 
where  they  had  quietly  rested  for  ages;  while  others  were  sunk  or  stranded  on 
the  sand-bars  and  islands.  At  New  Madrid,  several  boats  wero  carried,  by  the 
reflux  of  the  current,  into  a  small  stream  that  puts  into  the  river  just  above  the 
town,  and  left  on  the  ground  by  the  returning  waters,  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  Mississippi.  *  *  *  The  sulphurated  gasscs  that  were  discharged  during 
the  shocks,  tainted  the  air  with  their  noxious  efiluvia,  and  so  strongly  impregnated 
the  water  of  the  river,  to  the  distance  of  150  miles  below,  that  it  could  hardly  be 
used  for  any  purpose  for  several  days.  New  Madrid,  which  stood  on  a  bluff,  15 
or  20  feet  above  the  summer  floods,  sunk  so  low,  that  the  next  rise  covered  it  to 
the  depth  of  5  feet.  The  bottoms  of  several  fine  lakes  in  the  vicinity  were 
elevated,  so  as  to  become  dry  land,  and  have  since  been  planted  with  corn." 
Slight  oscillations  and  shocks  continued  to  be  felt  for  years,  along  this  region. 

Point  Pleasant,  7  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  a  thriving  village. 
Large  quantities  of  corn  are  shipped  from  this  place. 

Riddle's  Point,  3  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.,  is  a  landing  place  for 
goods  destined  for  the  interior,  and  for  the  receipt  of  produce.  The  whole 
country,  for  miles,  along  the  river,  is  extremely  rich,  yielding  immense  quantities 
of  corn. 

Walker's  Bend,  18  miles  below.  This  is  simply  a  large  bend  of  the 
river,  so  named  by  the  boatmen. 

Little  Prairie,  7  miles  below,  in  New  Madrid  co.,  Mo.  Population  500. 
This  is  the  point  where,  it  is  thought,  was  the  center  of  the  vibrations  of  the 
great  earthquake. 

Needham's  Cut-off,  24  miles  below.  These  cut-ofi"s  are  channels  formed 
by  the  current,  in  the  circular  bends  of  the  river.  The  floods  are  constantly 
washing  away  the  banks,  thus  opening  new  channels  for  the  current.  These 
frequent  changes,  in  the  channel,  render  the  navigation  of  the  river  quite 
intricate. 

Obion  Elver,  rises  in  West  Tennessee  and  flows  south-west  into  the  Mis- 


c^-^^" 


■M' 


34  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Bissippi,  just  above   Needham's  Cut-off — its  whole  length  is  estimated  at  150 
miles.     It  is  navigable  for  60  miles. 

Hale's  Point,  at  the  lower  side  of  Needham's  Cut-off. 
Bearfield  Landing,  2  miles  below,  in  Mississippi  co.,  Ark. 
Forked  Deer  River  flows  from  West  Tennessee,  and  enters  the  Mississippi 
4  miles  below  Bearfield.     It  is  navigable   for  keel  boats,  some  150   miles,  to 
Jackson. 

Ashport,  Lauderdale  co.,  Tenn.,  2  miles  below,  near  the  lower  end  of  the 
Canadian  Reach.   It  has  several  warehouses  and  a  steam  saw-mill.    Population  200. 
Osceola,  12  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Mississippi  co.,  Ark.,  is  a  smali 
village,  just  at  the  head  of  Plum  Point  Bars. 

Plum  Point.  — This  is  one  of  the  most  diflBcult  places  to  pass  on  the 
Mississippi.  From  the  frequent  changes  in  the  channel,  bars  have  been  thrown 
up,  in  which  a  large  amount  of  drift  has  become  imbedded,  rendering  navigatioa 
very  difficult.     Quite  a  number  of  of  boats  have  been  lost  here. 

1st  Chickasaw  Bluff,  6  miles  below.  These  bluffs,  which  are  4  in 
number,  are  merely  ordinary  banks,  extending  for  a  few  miles  along  the  river. 
The  highest  is  elevated  about  30  feet  above  high  water  mark.  After  passing 
these  banks,  the  country  bordering  on  the  river  is  very  low. 

Fulton,  Lauderdale  co.,  Tenn.,  4  miles  below,  on  the  lower  extremity  of  the 
1st  Chickasaw  Bluff.  It  contains  several  warehouses,  and  a  number  of  dwellings 
and  has  some  trade  in  cotton.  It  is  supported  by  a  rich  country.  Population  400. 
Hatchee  River  enters  the  Mississippi  10  miles  below  Fulton.  It  rises 
in  Mississippi,  and  flows  through  Hardeman  and  Haywood  counties,  Tenn.,  and 
is  the  boundary  line  between  Lauderdale  and  Tipton  counties,  Tenn.  It  is 
navigable  to  Bolivar,  the  county  seat  of  Hardeman  co.,  about  75  miles. 

Randolph,  Tipton  co.,  Tenn.,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hatchee  river,  near  the 
head  of  the  2d  Chickasaw  bluff.  Large  quantities  of  cotton  are  shipped  from 
this  place. . 

Pecan  Point,  10  miles  below,  in  Mississippi  co..  Ark. 
3rd   Chickasaw   Bluff,  10   miles  below.     This  bluff  is  separated  from 
the  main  channel  of  the  river  by  a  slough,  which  is  only  navigable  in  high  stages 
of  water. 

Greenock,  Crittenden  co..  Ark.,  27  miles  below  is  a  small  village.     Popu- 
lation about  200.  } 
Mound    City,  12  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

"Wolf  River  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State  of  Mississippi,  and  flows 
in  a  westerly  direction  till  it  joins  the  Mississippi  just  above  Memphis.  It  ianot 
navigable. 

Memphis,  8  miles  below  Mound  city,  in  Shelby  co.,  Tenn.,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  4th  Chickasaw  Bluff,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Wolf  river. 
This  spot  was  formerly  the  site  of  Fort  Assumption,  used  for  the  purpose  of 
protecting  the  country  against  the  Chickasaws,  to  chastise  whom  a  French  army 
of  nearly  4000,  white,  red,  and  black,  were  gathered  here.  They  remained  in  a 
state  of  inactivity,  from  the  summer  of  1739  to  the  spring  of  1740,  during  which 
time,  hundreds  of  them  sickened  and  died,  when  in  March  of  the  last  named 
year,  peace  was  concluded.  The  bluff,  on  which  Memphis  stands,  is  30  feet 
above  the  highest  floods,  and  its  base  is  washed  by  the  river,  for  a  distance  of  3 
miles,  while  a  bed  of  sand-stone,  the  only  known  stratum  of  rocks  below  the 
Ohio,  juts  into  the  stream  and  forms  a  convenient  landing.  From  the  Ohio  to 
Vicksburgh,  a  distance  of  600  miles,  it  is  the  only  site  for  a  commercial  mart,  on 


liiu 


Mound  City 


Shelby  Cy.,  Tenn. 


WolfK. 
Memphin 


MISSISSIPPI 
NO.  9. 


•13 
H*. 

o 


?•  Commerce. 


36  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

either  side  of  the  Mississippi.  The  beautiful  situation  of  Memphis,  and  its  con- 
nection with  a  fine  country,  together  with  the  great  distance  from  any  other 
point  on  the  river,  where  a  large  city  can  be  built,  give  it  superior  advantages. 
Immense  quantities  of  cotton  are  grown  in  the  interior  country,  and  this  is  the 
principal  mart  and  shippiug  point  for  it.  120,000  bales  are  annually  shipped 
from  this  place.  It  contains  6  or  7  churches,  2  medical  schools,  a  number  of 
private  schools,  a  large  number  of  stores  and  extensive  warehouses,  6  or  8 
printing  offices,  and  a  population  of  about  14,000.  Memphis  is  the  western 
terminus  of  the  Memphis  &  Charleston  Railroad. 

Pickering,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  contains  several  large  commission 
houses.     It  has  an  excellent  landing. 

Grayson,  Crittenden  co.,  Ark.,  6  miles  below. 

Norfolk,  2  miles  below,  in  De  Soto  co.,  Miss.,  is  a  small  village. 

Blue's  Point,  18  miles  below,  in  Crittenden  co.,  Ark. 

Commerce,  De  Soto  co.,  Miss.,  2  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Austin,  county  seat  of  Tunica  co.,  Miss.,  6  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing 
town.     Population  about  300. 

St.  Francis  River  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Arkansas,  20  miles  below 
Austiu.  It  rises  in  Missouri,  and  flows  almost  parallel  with  the  Mississippi  for  a 
great  distance,  and  drains  the  lakes  and  cypress  swamps  along  its  course.  Its 
whole  length  is  about  450  miles,  and  for  150  miles  it  is  navigable  at  some  sea- 
sons of  the  year. 

Sterling,  Phillips  co.,  Arkansas,  is  a  small  trading  post,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Francis  river. 

Helena,  county  seat  of  Phillips  co.,  Ark.,  10  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing 
town.  It  contains  a  court-house,  a  jail,  a  U.  S.  land  office,  and  several  printing 
offices.  In  the  summer  of  1852,  Helena  was  nearly  destroyed  by  fire.  Popula- 
tion about  500.  There  is  a  very  handsome  range  of  hills  immediately  back  of 
it — the  only  ones  seen  along  the  river  for  some  distance.  Considerable  cotton, 
brought  down  the  St.  Francis  river,  and  from  the  interior  country,  is  shipped 
from  this  place. 

Yazoo  Pass  or  Bayoa,  8  miles  below,  in  Koahoma  co.,  connects  the  Mis- 
sissippi river  with  the  Yazoo  river  at  this  point,  enabling  flat-boats  to  pass  through 
an  immense  section  of  fertile  country,  on  the  latter  river,  a  distance  of  nearly  300 
miles.     Extensive  cotton  plantations  are  all  along  the  course  of  the  Yazoo. 

Delta,  capital  of  Koahoma  co.,  Miss.,  on  the  lower  side  of  the  bayou,  ia  a 
Bmall  village. 

Prier's  Point,  6  miles  below,  in  same  county. 

Horse-Shoe  Bend  and  Cut-off,  just  below.  This  is  a  large  bend  of 
the  rivtr,  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  a  horse-shoe.  A  cut-off  has  been 
made  across  it. 

Old  Town,  Phillips  CO.,  Ark.,  3  miles  below. 

Barney's,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Concordia,  Bolivar  co.,  Miss., 30  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Montgomery's  Point,  10  miles  below,  in  Desha  co..  Ark.,  is  the  landing 
place  for  goods  destined  to  the  White  river  country. 

Victoria,  opposite,  in  Bolivar  co.,  Miss.,  is  also  a  landing  point  for  the  in- 
terior country. 

It  was  near  this  point  that  the  great  De  Soto  first  beheld  the  Mississippi,  some- 


MISSISSIPPI 
NO.  10. 


38  TSl:  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

where  between  Helena  and  the  mouth  of  White  river.  This  expedition,  ever 
memorable  in  the  history  of  our  country,  sailed  from  Havana  on  the  12th  of  May, 
1539.  After  a  voyage  of  two  weeks,  the  fleet  landed  in  a  small  bay  on  the  coast 
of  Florida.  Fired  by  a  thirst  for  gold,  and  ambitious  to  be  the  first  discoverers 
of  the  country,  they  eagerly  plunged  into  the  wilds  of  Florida  and  began  their 
search  for  gold.  The  natives  opposed  them  at  every  step.  In  order  to  make 
himself  as  secure  as  possible,  De  Soto  always  contrived  to  get  possession  of  the 
chief  of  the  country  through  which  he  was  passing,  whom  he  held  a  prisoner,  as 
security  for  the  good  conduct  of  his  people.  After  wandering  about  for  more 
than  2  years,  through  a  populous  and  hostile  country,  he  at  length  reached  the  Mis- 
sissippi. He  crossed  the  river  and  wandered  about  Arkansas,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  White  river.  Provisions  failing,  and  suffering  from  the  coldness  of  the 
winter,  he  again  directed  his  course  toward  the  Mississippi,  which  he  reached 
about  20  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas  river.  The  fatigues  and  disap- 
pointments of  the  expedition  began  to  weigh  so  heavily  on  his  mind,  that  they 
brought  on  a  fever,  which  soon  terminated  his  existence.  He  died  at  the  age  of 
42,  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land. 

White  River  enters  the  Mississippi  from  Arkansas,  4  miles  below  Victoria. 
(See  page  79.) 

Arkansas  River  empties  into  the  Mississippi  16  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  White  river.     (See  page  80.) 

Napoleon,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Arkansas  river,  in  Desha  co..  Ark.,  is 
the  depot  and  landing  place  for  goods  destined  for,  and  produce  brought  down, 
that  river.  The  U.  S.  Government  has  established  a  marine  hospital  here.  Pop- 
ulation about  1100, 

Bolivia,  capital  of  Bolivar  co..  Miss.,  13  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Ar- 
kansas river,  is  a  small  place. 

Gaines'  Landing,  Chicot  co..  Ark.,  35  miles  below. 
Columbia,  18  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Chicot  co..  Ark.  It  is  a 
very  pleasant  place,  containing  a  number  of  stores,  a  court-house,  and  a  popu- 
lation of  about  400.  Here  commences  the  great  cotton  growing  region,  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  are  almost  one  succession  of  plantations.  Just  below  this 
commences  the  growth  of  the  Spanish  moss. 

Point  Chicot,  4  miles  below,  in  Ark.,  was  formerly  the  county  seat  of 
Chicot  CO. 

Greenville,  4  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Washington  co.,  Miss.,  is  a  small 
village.     Population  about  300. 

Worthington   Landing,  22  miles  below  in  Washington  co..  Miss. 
Grand  Lake  Landing,  6  miles  below,  in  Chicot  co..  Ark.     Grand  Lake 
is  a  short  distance  back  of  the  landing. 

Princeton,  county  seat  of  Washington  co..  Miss.,  4  miles  below,  is  a 
landing  point  for  the  plantations  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Washington,  5 
miles  in  the  interior.     It  is  a  small  village.     Population  about  300. 

Bunche's  Bend  and  Cut-off  is  10  miles  below  Princeton.  This  cut-off 
runs  through  a  swamp,  and  is  but  a  few  miles  across ;  while  the  main  channel 
€ows  round  a  circular  bend  of  nearly  18  miles. 

Providence,  19  miles  below,  capital  of  Carroll  parish,  La.,  is  a  very  hand- 
some village,  and  has  considerable  trade  in  shipping  cotton  and  supplying  the 
planters  in  the  interior.  Population  about  350.  Just  back  of  the  town  is  the 
lake,  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  on  the  banks  of  which  there  are  a  number 
of  fine  cotton  plantations.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  a  very  large, 
fine  plantation,  with  a  number  of  houses  and  negro  quarters,  giving  it  the 
appearance  of  a  town. 


Old  Town..  J 


ni. 


40  •  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Tallalala,  capital  of  Issaquena  co.,  Miss.,  5  miles  below,  Is  a  small 
place.     Population  about  250. 

Tompkinsville,  10  miles  below,  in  Carroll  parish,  La.,  is  a  neat  little 
place,  extending  for  some  distance  along  the  river,  and  containing  the  residencea 
of  a  number  of  wealthy  planters. 

Brunswick  Landing,  14  miles  below,  in  Issaquena  co.,  Miss. 

Campbellsville,  10  miles  below,  in  Carroll  parish.  La. 

Millikinsville,  La.,  2  miles  below,  is  a  large  settlement  of  planters,  with 
many  fine  residences. 

Young's  Point,  6  miles  below,  ia  Madison  parish,  La. 

Tazoo  River  enters  the  Mississippi,  from  the  State  of  that  name,  nearly 
opposite  Young's  Point.     (See  page  81.) 

"Walnut  Hills,  10  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Yazoo  river,  in  Warren  co., 
Miss.,  extend  along  the  river  for  about  2  miles.  They  rise  to  the  height  of  near 
600  feet,  and  display  the  finest  scenery  on  the  lower  Mississippi.  They  are  under  a 
state  of  high  cultivation,  which  renders  them  very  attractive  in  their  appearance. 

Vicksburgh,  2  miles  below,  capital  of  Warren  co.,  Miss.,  is  built  on  a  hill, 
the  highest  point  of  which  is  nearly  300  feet  above  the  river.  It  was  settled  in 
1824  by  Neivitt  Vick,  Esq.,  and  became  a  city  in  1836.  This  City  is  the  depot  of 
all  the  Yazoo  country.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  producing  abundant  crops 
of  grain,  cotton  and  tobacco.  About  100,000  bales  of  cotton  are  annually  ship- 
ped from  Vicksburgh  to  New  Orleans.  It  contains  a  court-house,  5  or  6  churches, 
3  academies,  a  theater,  and  several  public  and  private  schools,  and  3  printing 
offices.     Population  about  4000. 

The  city  presents  a  fine  view  from  the  river ;  the  location  being  high,  and  the 
houses  built  in  terraces  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  give  the  whole  a  beautiful  appear- 
ance. A  railroad  extends  to  Jackson,  the  capital  of  the  State,  46  miles  in  the  in- 
terior.    The  Mississippi  river  is  some  300  feet  deep  at  this  point. 

Warrentown,  10  miles  below,  in  Warren  co..  Miss.,  is  a  pleasant  town. 
Population  about  300. 

Palmyra  Settlement,  15  miles  below  in  same  county. 

New  Carthage,  Madison  parish.  La.,  nearly  opposite,  ia  a  small  village. 

Point  Pleasant,  10  miles  below  in  Tensas  parish.  La. 

Big  Black  River,  rises  in  Choctaw  co..  Miss.,  and  after  a  course  of  about 
200  miles,  enters  the  Mississippi  14  miles  below  Point  Pleasant.  It  flows,  mostly 
through  a  level  and  fertile  region,  chiefly  occupied  by  cotton  plantations.  It  is 
navigable  for  some  60  miles.  The  point  at  which  this  river  joins  the  Mississippi 
is  called  Grand  Gulf,  and  the  town  of 

Grand  Gulf,  is  situated  2  miles  below,  in  Claiborne  co.,  Miss.  It  is  very 
pleasantly  situated,  on  an  elevated  bank,  and  has  considerable  trade  in  cotton, 
and  also  in  supplies  for  the  neighboring  plantations.  It  contains  2  or  3  churches, 
a  town  hall,  a  hospital,  a  theater,  a  cotton  press,  a  steam  saw  and  grist  mill,  and 
a' population  of  about  1000. 

Bayou  Pierre  empties  into  the  Mississippi  10  miles  below.  Keel-boats 
can  ascend  it  as  far  as  Port  Gibson,  which  is  a  flourishing  town,  28  miles  from  its 
mouth.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Claiborne  co..  Miss.,  and  contains  a  population 
of  about  1200. 

Bruinsburgh,  Claiborne  co..  Miss.,  is  a  small  place  at  the  mouth  of  Bayou 
Pierre. 

St  Joseph,  capital  of  Tensas  parish.  La.,  6  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 
It  contains  a  court-house  and  a  number  of  stores.     Population  200. 


42  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Rodney,  Jefferson  co.,  Miss.,  4  miles  below,  is  a  pleasant  town,  containing  a 
printing  office,  a  number  of  stores  and  warehouses.     Population  about  500. 

Natchez,  41  miles  below,  capital  of  Adams  co..  Miss.,  is  built  mostly  on  a 
high  bluff,  near  200  feet  above  the  river,  and  is  the  largest  town  in  the  State. 
It  was  founded  by  D'Iberville  in  1700.  That  portion  of  the  city  on  the  mar- 
gin of  the  river  is  termed  ''  Natchez,  under  the  Hill."  Most  of  the  heavy 
mercantile  business  is  done  in  this  part  of  the  town.  The  upper  town  stands 
on  the  bluff.  From  this  point  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country  can  be  ob- 
tained. As  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  it  beholds 
rich  and  well-cultivated  plantations ;  while,  beyond  this,  mingling  with  the  blue 
mists  that  float  along  the  edge  of  the  horizon,  nothing  can  be  seen  but  a  bound- 
less waste  of  deep  and  impenetrable  swamps.  The  streets  are  generally  regular 
and  broad.  In  1840,  a  severe  tornado  swept  over  this  city  and  destroyed  a  large 
amount  of  property.  This  city  is  one  of  the  principal  cotton  ports  on  the  Missis- 
sippi J  the  streets  are  often  rendered  impassible  by  the  piles  of  cotton  bales  wait- 
ing to  be  shipped.  The  city  contains  a  large  number  of  stores,  5  or  6  churches, 
4  banks,  a  hospital,  an  orphan  asylum,  several  seminaries  and  public  schools,  a 
Masonic  hall,  a  number  of  steam  mills,  and  4  or  5  printing  offices. 

Natchez  carries  on  an  extensive  inland  and  foreign  trade:  many  large  vessels 
come  up  to  the  town,  receive  their  freight,  and  sail  to  foreign  ports.  There  are 
several  large  founderies  here,  which  are  extensively  engaged  in  making  engines, 
cotton  presses,  and  sugar  mills.     Population,  about  7000. 

D'Iberville,  whose  name  occupies  a  large  space  in  the  early  history  of  our  coun- 
try, and  especially  in  those  events  which  transpired  on  the  lower  Mississippi,  was 
no  ordinary  man.  No  where  did  he  display  himself  to  more  advantage,  than  in 
the  discovery  of  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  the  last  great  act  in  his  event- 
ful life.  He  set  sail  for  the  Mississippi  on  the  17th  of  October,  1698,  with  2 
frigates,  2  small  vessels,  and  about  200  settlers.  On  the  2d  of  March  they  suc- 
ceeded in  entering  this  mighty  river  in  two  small  barges ;  they  probably  pro- 
ceeded as  far  as  the  mouth  of  Red  river,  and  then  returned,  by  way  of  the  bayou 
which  bears  his  name,  and  Lakes  Pontchartrain  and  Maurepas,  to  St.  Louis  bay. 
After  building  a  fort,  and  leaving  his  two  brothers  in  command,  he  sailed  for 

France. 

In  December,  1699,  D'Iberville  returned  from  Europe,  with  new  plans  of  col- 
onization. In  company  with  his  brother,  he  ascended  this  great  river  for  the  pur- 
pose of  selecting  a  site  for  a  town.  When  he  arrived  in  the  country  of  the 
Natchez,  the  Great  Sun,  their  principal  chief,  came  out  to  welcome  them.  A 
high  bluff,  on  which  Natchez  now  stands,  was  selected,  and  called  Rosalie,  in 
honor  of  the  Countess  Pontchartrain.  The  fort,  however,  was  not  built  till  1716, 
16  years  after  the  selection  of  the  site.  Up  to  this  time,  no  permanent  settle- 
ment had  been  made  at  Natchez.  The  few  traders  and  hunters  who  had  taken 
up  their  abode  among  the  Indians,  did  not  attempt  to  form  a  settlement.  But 
after  the  completion  of  the  fort,  the  tide  of  emigration  poured  in  so  rapidly,  that 
it  soon  became  the  most  important  place  in  Louisiana. 

Vidalia,  Concordia  parish,  La.,  is  a  small  place,  opposite  Natchez.  It  is 
the  county  seat,  and  contains  a  court-house  and  printing  office. 

Ellis'  Cliffs  is  a  high  ridge  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  18  miles 
below.  They  extend  for  several  miles  along  the  river,  and  tend  to  relieve  the 
eye  of  the  low  and  monotonous  scenery  of  the  lower  Mississippi. 

Union  Point,  Concordia  parish,  La.,  3  miles  below,  is  a  small  town. 
Homocliitto  River  rises  in  the  State  of  Mississippi,  and  flows  west  into 
the  Mississippi  river,  23  miles  below.     It  is  a  small  stream,  and  not  navigable. 
Port  Adams,  10  miles  below,  in  Wilkinson  co.,  Miss,,  is  a  small  village, 


MISSISSIPPI 
KO.  13. 


o 


o 


O 


» 
% 


44  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER.  V 

and  is  considered  the  port  of  Woodville,  a  thriving  town,  a  short  distance  in  the 
interior. 

Red  River,  upper  mouth,  enters  the  Mississippi  11  miles  below  Port  Adams. 
(See  page  81.) 

Red  River  Island  and  Cut-off. — At  the  mouth  of  Red  river,  the  main 
channel  of  the  Mississippi  makes  quite  a  long  bend,  leaving  a  very  narrow  strip 
of  land  between.  Captain  Shrove,  of  the  United  States'  Engineers,  cut  a  channel 
across  this  bend,  which,  upon  admitting  the  waters,  soon  became  sufficiently  wide 
and  deep  to  allow  the  largest  boats  to  pass  with  ease. 

From  this  point,  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  no  longer  flow  in  one  regular 
channel;  but,  separating  into  a  number  of  branches  or  bayous,  they  wend  their 
way  through  lakes  and  swamps  to  the  Gulf,  in  lines  nearly  parallel  with  the 
parent  stream,  thus  dividing  the  southern  part  of  the  State  into  a  number  of 
islands.  The  largest  of  these  bayous  is  Atcuafalaya,  which  leaves  the  river  3 
miles  below  Red  river,  and  pursues  a  southern  course  till  it  falls  into  Atchafalaya 
bay  on  the  Gulf  coast.  At  Plaquemine,  128  miles  below,  there  is  another  bayou, 
which  also  connects  with  the  Gulf.  At  Donaldsonville,  81  miles  above  New 
Orleans,  the  justly  celebrated  Bayou  La  Fourche  commences.  It  can  be  com- 
pared to  nothing  but  a  beautiful  ship  canal.  The  plantations  along  this  bayou 
are  so  numerous  that  they  resemble  one  continuous  town  stretching  from  one 
extremity  to  the  other.  On  the  east,  the  principal  outlet  is  the  Iberville,  which 
communicates  with  the  Gulf,  through  Lakes  Maurepas,  Pontchar train,  and  Borgne. 
The  land  included  between  these  bayous  is  called  the  delta  of  the  Mississippi. 
This  land  is  frequently  inundated,  and  amounts  to  several  thousand  square 
miles.  To  prevent  these  overflows  as  much  as  possible,  embankments  have  been 
thrown  up  along  the  river,  called  the  Icvcc.  On  the  east  side,  the  levee  com- 
mences about  60  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  extends  for  near  130 ;  on  the 
west  side  it  begins  at  Point  Coupee,  172  miles  above  New  Orleans.  From  this 
point  down  to  New  Orleans,  the  river  is  lined  with  beautiful  plantations,  upon 
which  are  many  fine  and  costly  residences.  The  whole  has  the  appearance  of  a 
town,  extending  along  the  margin  of  the  river. 

Red  River  Landing,  Point  Coupee  parish,  La.,  6  miles  below,  is  a  small 
place,  where  those  going  up  Red  river  usually  stop. 

Raccourci  Bend  and  Cut-off,  4  miles  below.  The  cut-off"  here,  was 
made  in  1848,  by  order  of  the  State.  The  distance  by  the  main  channel  is 
about  25  miles — by  the  cut-off"  it  is  only  about  half  a  mile.  The  width  of  the 
channel  is  400  yards,  and  sufficiently  deep  to  admit  the  largest  boats. 

Tunica  Bend  is  a  large  bend  G  miles  below.  Island  number  122  is  in  the 
the  lower  part  of  this  bend. 

Bayou  Sara,  West  Feliciana  parish,  La.,  24  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  town, 
and  a  shipping  point  of  large  quantities  of  cotton.  The  country  through  which 
the  bayou,  of  same  name,  passes,  is  rich,  thickly  settled,  and  under  a  high  state 
of  cultivation. 

St.  Francisville,  capital  of  West  Feliciana  parish.  La.,  just  below  bayou 
Sara,  is  a  pleasant  place,  being  built  mostly  on  a  hill,  about  1  mile  from  the  river. 
It  is  connected  with  Woodville,  a  distance  of  26  miles,  by  a  Railroad.  The 
portion  of  the  town  on  the  hill  is  well  built,  and  contains  several  fine  houses. 
Along  the  margin  of  the  river,  there  are  a  number  of  extensive  warehouses, 
from  which  a  large  amount  of  cotton  is  annually  shipped.     Population  500. 

Point  Coupee,  capital  of  Point  Coupee  parish,  La.,  is  opposite  St.  Fran- 
cisville. It  is  a  settlement  of  wealthy  planters,  mostly  French,  and  extends 
several  miles  along  the  river.  At  this  place,  the  Grand  Levee  or  embankment 
commences.     The  tendency  of  the  lower  Mississippi  to   seek  new  channels  to 


i 


Issaquena  Cy.,  MiaB. 


MISSISSIPPI. 

No.  14. 


Toung's  Point.  %' 


y 


46  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

the  Gulf,  Las  been  apparent  for  a  long  time.  The  cut-offs  that  have  been  made 
above,  though  they  have  shortened  the  distance  several  miles,  have,  by  giving  the 
water  a  more  direct  course,  greatly  increased  its  rapidity,  volume,  and  pressure 
against  its  banks.  This  is  no  doubt  the  cause  of  the  crevasse,  which  has  often 
been  the  means  of  destroying  entire  plantations,  and  burying  villages  in  water. 
The  land  on  the  river  from  this  point  to  the  Gulf,  is,  with  few  exceptions,  below 
the  surface  of  the  water,  even  at  its  ordinary  stage. 

Waterloo,  Point  Coupee  parish,  La.,  5  miles  below,  at  the  outlet  of  False 
river.  It  is  a  handsome  settlement,  surrounded  by  rich  and  beautiful  plantations. 
Population  about  300. 

Thompson's  Creek,  enters  the  Mississippi  from  the  east  a  short  distance 
above  Port  Hudson.  Jackson,  East  Feliciana  parish,  La.,  is  situated  on  the  east 
side  of  Thompson's  creek,  about  12  miles  from  St.  Francisville.  It  is  the  seat 
of  Louisiana  College,  founded  in  1825,  which  has  an  able  faculty,  and  about  2000 
volumes  in  its  libraries. 

Port  Hudson,  6  miles  below  Waterloo,  in  East  Feliciana  parish.  La.,  on 
White  Cliffs,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  large  amounts  of  cotton  and 
sugar  are  annually  shipped  from  here.  It  is  at  the  terminus  of  the  Clinton  and 
Port  Hudson  Iluilroad.     Population  about  300. 

Thomas'  Point,  is  situated  in  an  acute  bend  of  the  river,  13  miles  below. 
Baton  Eouge,  12  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Louisiana,  and  seat  of  jus- 
tice of  Baton  llouge  parish.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  last  bluff  that  is 
seen,  in  descending  the  river.  The  site  is  30  or  40  feet  above  the  highest  over- 
flow of  the  river.  The  bluff  rises  by  a  gentle  and  gradual  swell,  and  the  town, 
as  seen  from  the  river,  in  the  months  when  the  greatest  verdure  prevails,  rising 
so  regularly  and  beautifully  from  the  banks,  with  its  singularly  shaped  French 
and  Spanish  houses,  and  its  green  squares,  looks  like  a  finely  painted  landscape.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  pleasantly  situated  places  on  the  lower  Mississippi. 
From  Baton  Rouge  to  New  Orleans,  the  ''  coast,"  as  it  is  called,  is  lined  with 
as  fine  plantations  as  there  are  in  the  South.  Every  spot,  susceptible  of  cultiva- 
tion, is  transformed  into  a  beautiful  garden,  containing  specimens  of  all  those 
choice  fruits  and  flowers  which  flourish  only  in  tropical  climes.  From  the  espla- 
nade, the  prospect  is  delightful,  commanding  a  great  extent  of  the  coast,  with 
its  handsome  houses  and  rich  cultivation,  and  an  extensive  view  of  the  back  coun- 
try at  the  east. 

Baton  Rouge  contains  a  fine  State-house,  a  court-house,  penitentiary.  Baton 
llouge  College,  4  or  5  churches,  an  extensive  U.  S.  arsenal  and  barracks,  2  or  3 
printing  ofiices,  2  academies  and  a  number  of  schools.  Population  about  5000. 
The  penitentiary  is  a  fine  brick  building,  320  feet  long,  three  stories  high,  and 
contains  240  cells  for  convicts.  Baton  Rouge  College  has  4  professors,  and  a 
library  of  10,000  volumes. 

West  Baton  Ronge,  is  a  small  place  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
Manchac,  15  miles   below,  in   East   Baton   Rouge  parish.  La,,  is  a  small 
place  at  the  mouth  of  Bayou  Manchac. 

Manchac  Bayou  leaves  the  Mississippi  at  this  point.     About  20  miles  from 
the  river  it  is  couucctcd  with  the  Amite  river,  and  by  means  of  Lakes  Maurepas, 
'Pontchartrain  and  Borgnc,  opens  a  communication  with  the  Gulf. 

Bayou  Plaquemine,  8  miles  below,  affords  the  best  communication  to 
the  rich  settlements  of  Altukapas  and  Opolousus.  It  is  navigable  for  small  ves- 
sels for  some  miles  in  the  interior,  and  its  banks  are  lined  with  splendid  sugar 
and  cotton  plantations. 

Plaquemine,  just  below,  is  a  pleasant  town.  Considerable  trade  with  the 
surrounding  plantations  is  carried  on  here.   It  contains  a  population  of  about  60O. 


j^arrenton 


MISSISSIPPI 
No.  15. 


isi 


48  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

Iberville,  10  miles  below,  capital  of  Iberville  parisb. 

Bayou  Goule,  in  same  parisb,  10  miles  below,  is  a  email  place. 

Bayou  La  Fourche,  14  miles  below,  leaves  the  Mississippi  at  Donaldson- 
ville,  and  flows  in  a  direct  lino  to  the  Gulf.  It  is  very  thickly  settled  on  both  sides, 
by  some  of  the  richest  planters  in  the  State.  It  is  navigable  during  most  of  the 
year  for  a  distance  of  60  miles. 

Donaldson ville,  capital  of  Ascension  parish,  La.,  is  just  below  Bayou  La 
Fourche.  It  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  and 
is  a  place  of  considerable  trade  and  wealth.     Population  about  1000. 

Jefferson  College,  founded  in  1831,  is  a  thriving  institution,  16  miles 
below,  in  St.  James  parish. 

Bonnet  Carre,  24  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  St.  John  the  Baptist 
parish,  La. 

Red  Church,  16  miles  below,  in  St.  John  the  Baptist  parish,  La. 

Carrollton,  19  miles  below,  in  Jefferson  parish,  La.,  is  a  flourishing  town, 
7  miles  above  New  Orleans,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  Railroad  that  runs 
to  the  center  of  the  city.  The  Carrollton  Gardens  are  much  admired  by  all 
who  visit  them.  They  are  public,  and  laid  out  with  great  taste.  Here,  among 
beautiful  flowers,  thick  shrubbery,  and  finely  laid  out  walks  and  arbors,  and 
umbrageous  branches  of  green  trees  filled  with  innumerable  bright-plumaged 
and  melodious  singing  birds  of  the  South,  one  may  spend  a  day,  almost  oblivious 
of  the  near  vicinity  of  that  great  city,  with  its  thousands  of  inhabitants,  gathered 
from  all  countries  under  the  sun.     The  population  of  Carrollton  is  about  1000. 

Lafayette  City,  5  miles  below,  is  but  a  continuation  of  New  Orleans.  The 
Railroad  leading  from  New  Orleans  to  Carrollton,  passes  through  it.  A  steam 
ferry  is  constantly  running  from  this  to  the  opposite  shore,  and  another  to  New 
Orleans.  Most  of  the  flat-boats,  bound  for  New  Orleans,  land  at  Lafayette. 
Population  about  5000. 

New  Orleans,  2  milesbelow,  in  Orleans  parish.  La.,  is  situated  on  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  near  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi valley,  in  29** 
57'  north  latitude  and  90° 
7'  west  longitude.  It  is 
the  great  commercial  cap- 
ital of  the  South,  and  is, 
by  the  river,  about  100 
miles  from  the  Gulf.  New 
KKw  ORWAKS  FKOJi  IDE  MISSISSIPPI.  Orlcaus  Is  thc  scat  of  jus- 

tice for  Orleans  parish.  This  city  is  built  on  a  strip  of  low  marshy  land  lying  be- 
tween Lake  Pontchartrain  and  the  Mississippi  river,  and  on  the  convex  shore  of 
a  large  bend,  which  resembles  a  crescent,  or  new  moon,  for  which  reason  it  is 
often  called  the  Crescent  City.  The  ground  gradually  falls  back  toward  the  lake, 
and  in  no  part  of  the  city  is  it  suflaciently  elevated  to  throw  the  waste  water 
into  the  river.  In  time  of  heavy  rains  many  of  the  streets  are  flooded  with  water. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  town  of  Algiers.  This  place  is  exten- 
sively engaged  in  ship  building;  it  contains  several  large  ship  yards,  which  em- 
ploy a  great  number  of  hands. 

New  Orleans  has,  probably,  twice  as  much  boat  navigation  above  it,  as  any 
other  city  on  the  globe.  By  means  of  the  basin,  the  canal,  and  the  Bayou  St. 
John,  it  communicates  with  Lake  Ponchartrain,  with  the  Florida  shore,  with 
Mobile,  Pensacola,  and  the  whole  Gulf  shore.  It  also  communicates,  by  means 
of  the  bayous  Plaquemine  and  La  Fourche,  with  the  Attakapas  country,  and  has 


MISSISSIPPI. 

No.  16. 


Ellis  Cliffe. 


50  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER: 

many  other  communications,  by  means  of  the  numerous  bayous  and  lakes,  with 
the  lower  parts  of  Louisiana.  Its  wharves  may  be  seen,  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  lined  with  all  kinds  of  craft,  rough  flat-boats,  which  have  traveled  from  the 
Alleghanies,  with  lumber,  or  from  further  west,  with  provisions,  &c.;  steamers, 
from  the  hundred  navigable  rivers,  which  flow  into  the  Mississippi ;  ships  and 
other  sea  vessels  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe,  here  meet,  to  land  the  productions 
of  all  climes,  and  bring  together  the  inhabitants  of  all  countries,  colors,  and 
languages.  The  greater  part  of  the  business  is  transacted  between  October  and 
June.  During  the  summer,  the  city  is  generally  unhealthy,  and  is  visited  by 
that  scourge,  the  Yellow  Fever.  During  the  winter  and  spring,  the  climate  is 
generally  reputed  healthy,  and  thousands  flock  here  from  all  quarters  of  the 
world — some  for  health,  othei's  for  pleasure,  and  still  more  in  connection  with  the 
immense  business  of  all  kinds  which  is  here  transacted.  The  Carondelet,  or  old 
canal,  runs  in  a  line  with  Orleans  street,  the  center  street  of  the  city,  to  Bayou 
St.  John.  This  canal  is  about  2  miles  long,  and  from  25  to  30  feet  in  width,  and 
from  4  to  7  feet  in  depth.  The  basin  is  in  tlie  center  of  the  city,  near  the  Catho- 
lic Cemetery.  It  is  about  5  miles  from  the  canal,  down  the  bayou,  to  its  junction 
with  Lake  Pontchartrain,  where  there  is  a  large  dam  about  ^  of  a  mile  in  extent; 
at  the  extremity,  there  is  a  light  house.  There  is  another  canal  running  through 
the  city  to  the  lake,  which  does  a  large  amount  of  business.  The  New  Orleans 
and  La  Fourche  Canal  extends  through  Algiers  to  Bayou  La  Fourche,  a  distance 
of  85  miles.  This  is  a  very  important  work,  as  it  brings  in  communication  with 
New  Orleans,  some  of  the  richest  agricultural  portions  of  the  State.  There  are 
4  railroads  in  this  city  :  the  Orleans  and  Carrollton  llailroad,  which  runs  to  Car- 
rollton,  a  distance  of  7  miles ;  the  New  Orleans  Street  Kailroad,  which  starts  near 
the  river,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  and  extends  to  Lake  Pontchartrain,  a  dis- 
tance of  6  miles.  The  third  is  the  Mexican  Gulf  Railway,  which  starts  oiF  at 
right  angles  from  the  Pontchartrain  road,  at  the  corner  of  the  Elysian  Fields 
and  Good  Children  streets,  and  runs  eastward  to  Proctorsville,  on  Lake  Borgne, 
a  distance  of  27  miles.  The  4th  is  to  Jackson,  Miss.  The  Shell  Eoad  is  the  pride 
of  New  Orleans.  It  extends  to  the  lake.  This  road  is  made  of  small,  white 
sea-shells,  which  soon  become  broken  and  cemented  together.  The  cemeteries 
of  ISiiW  Orleans  attract  much  notice.  There  are  several,  which  are  laid  out  in 
a  handsome  manner,  the  most  celebrated  are  the  "  French  Cemetery,"  in  the  city, 
and  ''  Cypress  Grove  Cemetery,"  about  3  miles  out  on  the  Shell  lioad,  leading  to 
Lake  Ponchartrain.  The  taste  and  elegance  displayed  in  many  of  the  vaults, 
and  the  constant  attention  manifested,  to  show  respect  for  the  memory  of  de- 
parted friends,  are  truly  gratifying  to  the  finer  feelings  of  our  nature.  On  ac- 
count of  the  marshy  state  of  the  soil,  it  is  impossible  to  dig  graves,  as  a  foot 
beloiv  the  surface,  they  would  be  filled  with  water.  To  obviate  this,  the  tombs 
are  built  entirely  above  ground,  and  well  cemented,  with  apertures  just  large 
enough  for  a  single  colfiu,  and  rising  up,  in  many  instances,  to  the  height  of 
3  or  4  tiers.  The  walks  between  the  vaults  are  covered  with  beautiful  white  shells, 
from  the  sea  beach ;  and  along  the  edges  may  be  found  almost  every  variety  of 
shrubbery  and  flowers,  which  grow  so  luxuriantly  in  the  south.  These  cemete- 
ries are  free  to  all  visitors. 

Public  Buildings. — The  St.  Charles'  Hotel  ia  one  of  the  finest  buildings  in 
the  city.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  nearly  §600,000.  The  Verandah,  at  the 
corner  of  St.  Charles  and  Common  streets,  is  another  fine  building.  The  Munici- 
pal Hall  is  a  beautiful  marble  edifice.  The  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a  beautiful  and 
costly  structure.  The  Custom  House  is  one  of  the  largest  buildings  of  the  kind 
in  the  Union;  it  is  built  of  New  England  granite.  The  United  States  Branch 
Mint  is  a  large  edifice  of  the  Ionic  order,  2^2  |et!t  long  and  IGS  feet  deep.  The 
Catholic  Cathedral  is  also  a  large  and  splendid  building.  The  Odd  Fellows'  Hall 
is  u  fine  and  extensive  building,  also  the  Merchants'  Exchange.     Many  of  the 


Point  Coupee  Cy.,  La 


Bed  River  LRndlng.  •• 


52  TEE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

churches  are  costly  and  splendid  edifices,  of  which  the  city  contains  between  40 
and  50  of  the  various  denominations,  and  several  Jewish  synagogues.  The 
markets  also  deserve  attention.  They  are  conducted  on  a  dilfercnt  jilun  from  those 
of  most  of  our  Western  cities.  There  are  stands  erected  along  the  sides  of  the 
market-house  for  the  sale  of  coffee,  chocolate,  cakes,  pies,  &c.  These  are  the 
boarding  places  of  hundreds  of  people  who  wander  about  without  any  fixed  place 
of  residence.  The  city  contains  several  public  squares,  which  are  ornamented 
with  fine  trees  and  shrubbery.  There  are  4  or  5  theaters  here, — the  St.  Charles, 
the  (Jrleaus,  the  American,  and  others.  The  University  of  Louisiana  was  founded 
in  1835,  and  has  an  elegant  building  at  the  corner  of  Common  and  Philippe 
streets.  There  are  departments  of  medicine,  law,  political  economy,  and  com- 
merce, with  able  professors  in  each.  New  Orleans  has  a  large  number  of  excel- 
lent public  schools,  in  which  about  16,000  children  annually  receive  instruction. 

The  benevolent  institutions  in  New  Orleans  are  numerous  and  extensive; 
among  them  may  be  mentioned  the  Charity  Hospital,  the  U.  S.  Naval  Hospital, 
Stone's  Hospital,  the  Franklin  Infirmary. 

The  city  contains  about  25  printing  otfices,  some  of  them  on  an  extensive  scale, 
issuing  daily  and  weekly  papers  with  a  large  circulation,  several  of  them  in  the 
French  language. 

The  Commerce  of  New  Orleans  is  very  large,  extending  to  nearly  all  quarters 
of  the  globe.  The  article  of  greatest  value  is  cotton,  but  immense  quantities  of 
other  produce  are  annually  shipped — flour,  sugar,  pork,  tobacco,  hemp,  and 
numerous  other  articles  from  all  the  north-western  and  south-western  States. 
There  are  9  or  10  well  managed  banks  here,  with  a  heavy  capital. 

The  population  in  1850  was  126,000,  in  1853,  145,000.  It  is  now  estimated, 
during  the  business  season,  at  about  170,000,  including  Lafayette. 

In  1718  (Louisiana  then  being  under  the  dominion  of  the  French),  colonists 
were  sent  from  Europe,  who  laid  out  New  Orleans  with  great  ceremony.  This 
colony  was  under  the  direction  of  John  Law,  the  noted  financier.  The  Missis- 
sippi company,  under  Law,  received  their  charter  in  1717,  and  it  granted  them 
the  exclusive  right  of  trading  in  the  Mississippi  country,  for  25  years,  with  the 
monopoly  of  the  Canada  beaver  trade.  In  1718,  the  monopoly  *f  trading  in 
tobacco  was  also  granted  them.  In  1719,  the  exclusive  right  of  trading  in  Asia 
and  the  East  Indies,  and,  soon  after,  the  farming  of  the  public  revenue,  together 
with  the  extension  of  all  these  rights  to  the  year  1770 — and,  also,  the  exclusive 
right  of  coining  for  9  years.  They  also  had  the  grant,  formerly  given  to  Crozat, 
but  resigned  by  him,  of  an  exclusive  monopoly  of  Louisiana,  for  15  years,  and 
the  absolute  ownership  of  whatever  mines  might  be  opened,  for  this  was,  in  fact, 
the  great  object  of  all  the  explorers  of  the  Mississippi  country.  They  relied,  not 
so  much  on  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  as  the  immense  wealth  that  would  be  realized 
from  the  rich  mines  of  precious  metals,  which  they  hoped  to  find.  In  1717,  about 
2000  subjects  of  the  Western  Duchy,  embarked  from  Europe,  under  the  direction 
of  the  company.  In  1720,  the  company  failed,  and  the  Germans,  thus  deserted, 
dispersed  into  diflerent  portions  of  the  country.  Large  sums  were  advanced  by 
the  crown  to  uphold  the  company,  and  much  expended  for  military  protection 
against  the  Indians.  But  all  failed  to  keep  it  up.  In  1731,  the  government 
obtained  a  judgment  against  them,  of  twenty  millions  of  francs,  to  cancel  which, 
the  entire  property  and  privileges  were  re-conveyed.  In  1721,  the  Council  Gen- 
eral was  removed  from  Eiloxi  to  New  Orleans 

In  1759,  Great  Britain  had  over-run  most  of  the  province  of  New  France,  and 
obtained  possession  of  Quebec,  Ticouderoga,  Crown  Point  and  Niagara.  During 
this  war,  Spain  had  formed  a  family  compact  with  France,  and  taken  sides  against 
England.  In  1762,  hostilities  ceased  between  the  three  powers,  and  peace  was 
restored  by  the  ratification  of  the  treaty  of  Paris,  dated  February  10,  1763. 
By  this  treaty,  England  obtained  possession  of  Canada  and  all  the  posts  along  the 


W.  Baton  Rouge  Cy.,  La. 


64  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER 

St.  Lawrence.  France  also  cctled  to  licr  all  that  portion  of  Louisiana,  extending 
from  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  on  the  east  side,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Bayou 
Ihcrville;  thence  along  the  bayou,  to  Lake  Maurepas;  thence,  along  the  center  of 
the  lakes,  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  including  the  port  and  river  of  Mobile.  The 
navigation  of  the  Mississippi  was  to  remain  forever  free  to  both  powers.  .At  the 
same  time,  the  French  King  formed  a  secret  treaty  with  Spain,  by  which  he 
agreed  to  deliver  to  the  Spanish  government  the  remainder  of  Louisiana,  including 
the  Island  of  New  Orleans.  Two  or  three  years  elapsed  before  Spain  took  posses- . 
sion  of  this  valuable  territory.  The  French  population  were  very  much  dissatisfied 
at  the  change;  and,  in  order  to  prevent  an  outbreak,  it  was  deemed  necessary  to 
keep  a  large  military  force  constantly  at  New  Orleans.  The  laws  of  Spain  were  very 
despotic  and  unpupular.  Morales,  the  intendant,  knowing  that  Spain  could  not  long 
maintain  her  position  on  the  Mississippi,  determined  to  exercise  his  vindictive  feel- 
ings against  the  Americans,  by  denying  them  the  right  to  deposit  goods  and  produce 
in  New  Orleans.  This  act  so  completely  aroused  the  people  of  the  western 
States,  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the  general  government  was  able  to 
restrain  them  from  the  conquest  of  the  country.  This  suspension  of  trade  brought 
the  people  of  New  Orleans  on  the  verge  of  famine.  Accordingly,  to  modify  the 
evil,  without  fully  removing  the  cause.  Morales  issued  an  order,  that  Western 
people  might  have  the  privilege  of  sending  flour  into  the  territory,  provided  they 
paid  a  dut}^  oi  six  per  cent,  ad  valorum,  and  shipped  it  in  Spanish  vessels.  But 
the  Americans  respccfully  declined  to  avail  themselves  of  the  privileges  of  this 
order.  The  King,  however,  so  far  revoked  the  acts  of  Morales,  as  to  again  re- 
store, in  1795,  for  three  years,  the  free  navigation  of  the  river,  and  the  right  to 
deposit  at  New  Orleans,  which  continued  till  1802. 

After  the  overthrow  of  the  Bourbon  dynasty,  the  King  of  Spain  formed  a  secret 
treaty  with  the  First  Consul,  Oct.  1,  1800,  by  which  he  agreed  to  deliver  within 
six  months,  the  province  of  Louisiana  to  the  French  authorities.  In  consideration 
of  this  act  of  Spanish  generosity,  the  French  established  on  the  throne  of  Tuscany, 
the  Prince  of  Parma,  son-in-law  of  the  King  of  Spain.  Napoleon  now  began  to 
make  extensive  preparations  to  extend  his  authority  over  this  rich  and  valuable 
territory.  A  large  fleet  and  an  army  of  25,000  men  were  soon  ready  to  sail  for 
the  Mississippi.  After  spending  a  year  in  the  various  ports  of  Holland,  continu- 
ally watched  by  the  English,  Napoleon  determined  to  abandon  the  enterprise,  and 
transfer,  if  possible,  the  territory  to  the  United  States.  Near  the  close  of  the 
year  1802,  he  directed  his  minister,  M.  Talleyrand,  to  open  negotiations  with 
Mr.  Livingston,  United  States  Minister  at  Paris.  While  this  correspondence  was 
going  on,  Mr.  Jeftersou,  then  President,  deeming  the  possession  of  New  Orleans 
and  Florida  of  vast  importance  to  the  whole  Union,  sent  over  Mr.  Monroe,  with 
instructions  to  make  some  arraugement,  if  possible,  for  its  purchase.  When  Mr. 
Monroe  arrived  in  Paris,  he  was  somewhat  surprised  to  find  Napoleon  so  willijig 
to  part  with  Louisiana.  The  only  thing  then  for  the  American  Commissioners  to 
arrange,  was  to  fix  the  price  to  be  paid.  Napoleon  wanted  125,000,000  francs; 
but  the  commissioners,  thinking  it  by  far  to  high,  ofi'ered.only  50,000,000.  After 
some  time  spent  in  consideration,  they  agreed  upon  80,000,000,  deducting 
20,000,000  for  spoliation  upon  our  commerce.  Their  course  was  fully  approved 
by  the  President  and  his  cabinet,  and  confirmed  by  the  Senate  of  the  United 
States.  On  the  20th  of  December,  1803,  the  province  of  Louisiana  was  oflicially 
delivered  over  to  the  constituted  authorities  of  the  United  States. "^ 

The  Spanish  government  were  very  much  displeased  at  this  transfer  of  Louisiana, 
but  finally,  in  1804,  became  reconciled.  Spain,  however,  still  retained  possession 
of  Florida  till  1820,  when  it  was  purchased  by  the  United  States.  Immediately 
after  the  United  States  obtained  possession  of  Louisiana,  it  was  formed  into  a 
territorial  government.     In  1811,  the  people  were  authorized  by   Congress  to 

»See  American  State  Papers.     Also,  Martin's  Louisiana. 


56  THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

form  a  State  constitution;  and  in  1812,  Louisiana  was  admitted  into  the  Union, 
with  full  privileges,  as  a  sister  State  of  this  Great  Western  llepublic.  In  1812, 
war  was  declared  between  England  and  the  United  States,  and  the  British  Min- 
istry, resolved,  if  possible,  to  possess  themselves  of  New  Orleans,  and  thereby 
control  the  entire  navigation  of  the  Mississippi.  New  Orleans  was  in  imminent 
danger;  the  city  was  without  defenses,  and  the  Spaniards  at  Mobile  and  Pensa- 
cola,  were  ready  to  receive  a  British  army  with  open  arms.  This  state  of  things, 
was  repeatedly  urged  upon  the  consideration  of  the  President  and  his  Cabinet,  but 
nothing  was  done,  till  the  arrival  of  General  Jackson,  in  the  autumn  of  1814. 

On  the  12th  of  December,  1814,  the  British  fleet  made  its  appearance  off  Cat 
Island,  near  the  entrance  of  Lake  Borgne.  Commodore  Patterson  dispatched  a 
flotilla  of  5  gun-boats,  to  observe  the  movements  of  the  enemy,  and  check,  if  pos- 
sible, his  advance.  On  the  14th,  the  boats  were  attacked  by  a  superior  force  of 
43  barges,  and  1200  men ;  and,  after  a  gallant  struggle  of  one  hour,  they  were 
overpowered  and  compelled  to  surrender.  In  this  engagement,  the  Americans 
lost  but  6  killed  and  o5  wounded,  while  the  British  loss  could  not  have  been  less 
than  300  in  killed  and  wounded. 

General  Jackson,  on  reviewing  the  militia  and  defenses  of  the  city,  found  it 
necessary  to  proclaim  martial  law,  which  no  doubt  saved  the  city.  This  measure 
was  very  much  opposed  at  the  time.  Judge  Hall  took  upon  himself  the  respon- 
sibility to  impose  upon  the  General,  after  the  battle,  a  fine  of  $1000,  in 
consequence  of  the  suspension  of  the  habeas  corpm  act.  The  Judge  under- 
took to  interfere  with  the  military  arrests,  and  Jackson  ordered  him  beyond 
the  limits  of  the  camp.  This  fine,  which  the  General  promptly  paid  from  his  own 
resources,  was  refunded  by  Congress  with  interest,  a  short  time  before  his  death. 

On  the  22d,  a  division  of  the  British  army,  under  General  Keane,  succeeded 
in  passing  from  Lake  Borgne  into  Bayou  Bienvenu.  The  British,  supposing  them- 
selves perfectly  secure,  concluded  to  encamp  near  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
American  general  determined  to  attack  them  in  their  new  position.  He  ac- 
cordingly collected  his  whole  force,  which  was  less  than  2000,  and  marched 
to  attack  the  English,  who  were  not  less  than  3000  strong.  The  schooner  Caro- 
line, and  the  Louisiana,  were  sent  down  the  river,  with  orders  to  commence  the 
attack  when  the  proper  signal  should  be  given.  The  action  commenced  at  half- 
past  seven  in  the  evening,  by  a  heavy  discharge  of  grape  and  canister,  which 
was  the  first  warning  the  enemy  had  of  the  approach  of  the  American  army. 
Jackson  commanded  here  in  person ;  and  so  complete  was  the  surprise  of  the 
enemy,  that  hundreds  were  cut  down,  without  even  an  opportunity  of  offer- 
ing any  resistance.  The  British  lost  nearly  400,  in  killed,  wounded,  and 
prisoners. 

General  Jackson  fell  back  within  5  or  6  miles  of  the  city ;  where  he  com- 
menced fortifying  himself  on  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  lying  between  a  low  swamp 
and  the  river.  The  General  determined  to  build  a  breastwork  of  cotton-bales  and 
earth,  extending  from  the  swamp  to  the  river,  a  distance  of  nearly  a  mile.  He 
accordingly  ordered  all  the  drays  and  wagons  in  the  city,  to  haul  the  cotton  from 
the  warehouses ;  which  orders  they  were  compelled  to  obey,  at  the  peril  of  their 
lives.  The  front  of  this  cotton  breastwork  was  protected  by  a  deep  ditch,  filled 
with  water.  On  the  28th,  a  skirmish  occurred  a  short  distance  from  the  Ameri- 
can lines,  which  lasted  several  hours;  in  this  the  English  lost  about  250,  and 
the  Americans  only  7.* 

The  British  army  under  Packingham,  encamped  near  the  American  lines, 
waiting  several  days  for  reinforcements.  The  Americans  numbered  6000, 
and  the  British  15,000.  At  length  the  anxious  night  of  the  7th  had  passed  away, 
and  the  dawn  of  the  glorious  8th,  had  just  shed  its  mellow  light  on  the  extended 

*See  Breckenridge'  History  of  the  War. 


58 


THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 


MAP  OF  THE  VICINITY  OF  NEW   ORLEANS. 


lines  of  the  two  reposing  armies.     Packingham,  after  sending  800  of  his  men, 

iMOBiLE^  under  Colonel  Thorton, 
"  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  arranged  the 
'M  remainder  of  his  army 
^  into  two  divisions,  of  60 
"pdeep;  the  right  under 
General  Gibbs,  and  the 
left  under  Gen.  Keane. 
The  English  moved 
slowly  to  the  attack ; 
but  when  within  a  short 
distance,  the  batteries 
along  the  American  lines 
opened  upon  them  such 
a  destructive  fire,  that 
their  ranks  were  broken 
almost  as  fast  as  they 
were  closed  up.  But 
when  they  cume  within 
reach  of  the  muskets,  the 
whole  American  line 
opened  upon  them  such 
a  discharge  of  musketry, 
that  they  soon  retired  in  confusion  from  the  field.  Packingham  was  killed  in  front  of 
his  troops,  endeavoring  to  encourage  them  by  his  presence.  The  officers  succeeded 
in  bringing  the  troops  to  a  second  attack,  but  this  was  even  more  disastrous 
than  the  first.  They  soon  gave  way,  leaving  more  than  2,000  lying  on  the  field, 
killed  and  wounded.  The  American  loss  was  only  7  killed  and  6  wounded. 
The  battle  of  New  Orleans,  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  history  of  our 
country,  was  the  closing  scene  of  the  war  of  1812. 
Battle  Ground,  6  miles  below  New  Orleans. 

Ducro's  Landing,  is  6  miles  below.  The  Mexican  Gulf  Railway  here 
diverges  and  crosses  to  Lake  Borgne 

Fort  St.  Leon  is  on  the  Mississippi,  5  miles  below. 

English  Turn,  is  a  bend  in  the  river,  opposite  Fort  St.  Leon.  It  is  the 
point  'where  the  English  vessels,  sent  to  explore  and  take  possession  of  the 
Mississippi,  met  the  French,  who  informed  them  that  they  were  in  the  dominions 
of  his  majesty,  the  King  of  France,  aud  unless  they  retreated,  the  large  force, 
which  they  alleged  was  but  a  short  distance  up  the  river,  would  be  brought 
against  them.     The  English  reluctantly  turned,  and  sailed  down  the  river. 

Forts  St.  Philip  and  Jackson,  are  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Mississippi, 
55  miles  below  English  Turn. 

The  Mouths  of  the  Mississippi,  30  miles  below.  We  have  now 
arrived  at  the  point  whore  this  miglity  river,  separating  into  a  number  of  branches, 
resembling  a  large  hand  with  extended  fingers,  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Gulf. 
The  sedinicnt  which  is  annually  deposited  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  about  yj^g 
of  the  quantity  of  water  by  weight. 

The  North-east  Pass,  latitude ^29°  7'  N.,  and  longitude  89°  10'  W.,  is  the  prin- 
cipal pass.  The  word  lialize,  means  a  level.  At  the  mouth  of  the  pass,  there  is 
a  small  settlement  of  pilots,  known  as  the  Balize  settlement.  The  other  passes, 
are  the  Outlet  Pass,  the  South-east,  the  South,  the  South-west,  and  the  West. 


Hattlegroiind 


60  ALABAMA   RIVER. 

ROUTES  ON  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO. 

THE    ALABAMA   KIVER 

Is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Tulupoosa  and  Coosa  rivers,  about  10  miles 
above  Moataoraery,  Ala.  The  Talapoosa  tjikcs  its  rise  in  Paulding  co.,  Ga., 
about  '250  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  navigable  about  40  miles,  for  small 
steamers.  The  Coosa  rises  in  Georgia,  also;  length  some  350  miles,  and  navi- 
gable for  small  boats,  about  175  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Talapoosa. 

The  Alabama  is  a  very  crooked  stream,  but  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  for  the 
larcest  class  of  boats,  except  in  times  of  great  drought.  Its  whole  length  is  near 
34U  miles.  The  country  through  which  it  runs  is  exceedingly  rich,  occupied  by 
extensive  cotton  plantations,  and  large  tracts  of  valuable  timber.  It  enters 
Mobile  bay,  at  the  city  of  Mobile,  in  hit.  30°  41'. 

Montgomery,  capital  of  the  State  of  x\labama,  and  county  seat  of  Mont- 
gomery CO.,  is  a  thriving  city,  beautifully  situated  iu  a  healthy  and  fertile  region. 
It  has  an  extensive  trade,  and  fine  facilities  for  reaching  important  points  in  the 
surrounding  country.  The  terminus  of  the  Montgomery  and  West  Point  Railroad 
is  here.  About  80,000  bales  of  cotton  are  annually  shipped  from  Montgomery. 
Population  about  7500. 

Washington ,  13  miles  below,  in  Autauga  co.,  is  a  small  village. 
Lowndesport,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co. 
Vernon     In  same  co.,  8  miles  below. 
Miller's  Ferry,  9  miles  below. 

Benton,  Lowndes  co.,  15  miles  below,  is  a  thriving  town  and  has  an  active 
ti'ade.     Population  about  500. 

Selma,  26  miles  below,  in  Dallas  co.,  is  a  flourishing  town,  situated  in  a 
populous  and  fertile  region,  and  has  a  large  business.  It  contains  3  or  4 
churches  and  a  printing  office.  Population  about  1600.  The  terminus  of  the 
Alabama  and  Tennessee  Ptailroad  is  here. 

Cahawba,  16  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Dallas  co.,  just  below  the 
mouth  of  Cahawba  river,  and  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  It  contains  the  usual 
county  buildings,  several  churches,  2  printing  offices,  and  a  U.  S.  land  office. 
The  Cahawba  river  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  about  100  miles.  It  passes 
through  the  Alabama  coal  field. 

Elm  Bluff,  5  miles  below. 

Portland,  19  miles  below,  in  Dallas  co. 

Bridgeport,  16  miles  below. 

Canton,  AVilcox  co.,  5  miles  below. 

Prairie  Bluff,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Upper  Peachtree  Landing,  11  miles  below. 

Black  Bluff  Landing,  13  miles  below. 

Lower  Peachtree  Landing,  5  miles  below. 

Bell's  Landing,  Monroe  co.,  16  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Claiborne,  22  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Monroe  co. 

Gosport,  Clarke  co.,  7  miles  below,  is  a  small  place. 

Gainestown,  9  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  landing  place. 

French's  Landing,  8  miles  below. 

James'  Landing,  6  miles  below. 

Tombigbee  River,  enters  the  Alabama  40  miles  below.  This  river  takes 
its  rise  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  Mississippi,  and  is  over  400  miles  in  length.  It 
is  navigable  for  nearly  300  miles  from  its  mouth.     It  flows,  mostly,  through  a 


Johnsons  o|S 


Mississirpi 

NO.  22. 

Fori  ?t.  rhiUip 


62  SA BINE—NE  CHE S—TR INI  TY  RI  VERS. 

level,  fertile  country,  much  of  wliicli  is  occupied  by  cotton  plautations.  There 
are  niauy  iinportaut  towns  on  the  Tonibigbee  iiiver,  a  few  of  which  are :  Fulton, 
Aberdeen,  and  Columbus,  jMiss.,  and  Pichensville,  Gainesville,  and  Dcmopolis, 
Alabaina. 

Fort  St.  Philip,  22  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Tombigbee  river. 

Mobile,  capital  of  Mobile  co.,  Ala.,  22  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  near  its  entrance  into  the  bay  of  same  name,  30  miles  from  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  and  167  miles  from  New  Orleans.  Lat.  30°  41'  north.  It  is  the  com- 
mercial capital  of  the  State,  and  next  to  New  Orleans,  the  greatest  cotton  market 
in  the  Uniuu — nearly  000,000  bales  have  been  exported  in  a  single  year.  The 
situation  is  considered  very  healthy,  being  built  on  a  plain  that  rises  near  15  feet 
above  tide  water.  The  breezes  from  the  sea  render  the  atmosphere  pure,  which, 
together  with  the  climate,  make  it  the  resort  of  a  great  number  of  invalids,  from 
various  parts  of  the  world.  The  city  is  supplied  with  water  brought  from  a 
neighboring  hill,  and  distributed  through  the  towu  in  iron  pipes.  Mobile  contains 
a  naval  hospital,  city  hospital,  3  or  4  banks,  a  theater.  Burton  Academy,  several 
churches  and  6  printing  offices. 

About  2  miles  from  Mobile,  is  Spring  Hill  College,  incorporated  in  1830. 

The  Bay  of  Mobile,  is  the  outlet  of  one  of  the  most  prolific  cotton-growino' 
regions  in  the  South. 

Mobile  is  the  terminus  of  the  Ohio  and  Mobile  Railroad.  Population  of  the 
city  in  1850,  20,515 — estimated  now  at  about  25,000. 

Pensacola,  capital  of  Escambia  co.,  Florida,  is  situated  on  Pensacola  bay, 
10  miles  from  the  sea,  and  64  miles  east  from  Mobile.  The  town  is  built  on  a 
sandy  plain,  about  40  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  bay.  It  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  contains  a  court-house,  custom-house,  and  2  public  squares.  Population  about 
2500.  8  miles  below  the  city,  there  is  a  United  States  Navy  Tard,  which 
covers  80  acres  of  ground. 

THE  SABINE  RIVER 
Takes  its  rise  in  Hunt  co.,  Texas,  and  runs  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  to 
the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State,  from  which  point  it  runs  in  a  southerly  course, 
being  the  boundary  between  Louisiana  and  Texas,  and  empties  (through  Sabine 
lake)  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Its  whole  length  is  about  500  miles.  It  is 
shallow  at  its  mouth,  but  is  navigable,  during  high  water,  for  small  boats,  for 
some  distance. 

The  principal  towns  on  the  Sabine  river  are  Logansjiort,  in  De  Soto  parish.  La 
IlamiltoR,  below,  in  Shelby  co.,  Texas.  Sahinetoicn,  Sabine  co.,  Texas,  (a 
shipping  point  for  cotton,  etc.)  Belgrade,  Newton  co.,  Texas.  Salem,  in  same 
CO.      3Iadison,  Jeifersou  co.,  Texas,  (near  the  head  of  Sabine  lake.) 

THE    NECHES   RIVER 

Rises  in  Van  Zandt  co.,  Texas,  and  enters  Sabine  lake  near  its  upper  extremity 
It  is  navigable,  for  small  steamers,  about  100  miles,  in  high  water. 

Sumpteris  on  the  Neches  river,  in  Trinity  co.,  Texas.  Woodville,  below, 
is  the  capital  of  Tyler  co.,  Texas.  Beaumont,  county  seat  of  Jefferson  co.,  Texas, 
and  abtaU  28  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Neclies  river.  Inmiense  numbers  of 
cattle  and  luirses  range  over  the  prairies  in  this  part  of  Texas. 

Sabine  City,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  outlet  of  Sabine  lake_ 
about  6  miles  from  the  ( julf  of  3Iexicn,  in  Jetl'ersou  CO.,  Texas. 

THE   TRINITY   RIVER 

Rises  in  Cnok  co.,  Texas,  in  two  branches — -the  Went  Fork  and  Elm  Fork — 
which  unite  in  Dallas  ci.  Its  course  is  south-easterly,  and  it  empties  into 
Galveston  bay,  near  its  upper  end.  The  Trinity  is  nearly  600  miles  in  length, 
and  is  navigable,  during  high  water,  some  350  miles.     It  flows  through  a  very 


MISSISSIPPI 
No.  23 


I 

64       SAK  JACINTO— BRAZOS— COLORADO  RIVERS. 

fertile  region  of  country,  producing  cotton,  corn,  sugar,  and  rice,  in  great  abun- 
dance.    A  great  variety  of  timber  is  found  along  its  course. 

The  principal  towns  on  the  Trinity  are  BirdsviUe,  on  the  West  fork,  in 
Tarrant  co.  Dallas,  in  Dallas  co.,  a  short  distance  below  the  mouth  of  Elm  fork. 
Buffalo,  Henderson  co.  Fine  Bluff'vLXid  Alabama,  Leon  co.  Cincinnati,  Walker 
CO.  JSicartwout,  Polk  co.  Smithjield,  in  same  co.  Liberty,  capital  of  county 
of  same  name. 

Anahuac,  in  Liberty  co.,  is  on  the  east  side  of  Galveston  bay,  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Trinity  river. 

THE   SAN    JACINTO   RIVER 
Is  a  small  stream  which   rises  in   Walker  co.,  Texas,  and  empties  into   Gal- 
veston  bay,  about  25   miles  north-east  of   Houston.     It  is  navigable   for   10 
or  12  miles. 

Houston,  capital  of  Harris  co.,  is  situated  on  Buffiilo  bayou,  about  4-i 
miles  from  Galveston  bay,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation.  Large  quantities 
of  cotton,  corn,  and  sugar  are  sliippcd  from  this  point.  Houston,  contains  4  or  5 
printing  offices,  an  iron  foundry,  machine  shop,  &C.     Population  about  6000. 

San  Jacinto,  on  Buffalo  bayou,  Harris  co.,  Texas,  near  Galveston  bay,  is 
celebrated  on  account  of  an  important  battle  fought  here  in  1836,  which  resulted 
in  the  capture  of  Santa  Anna  and  the  independence  of  Texas.  Li/nchburg, 
Harris  CO.,  on  Buffalo  bayou,  opposite  San  Jacinto. 

Galveston,  county  seat  of  Galveston  co.,  Texas,  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
end  of  Galveston  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  in  lat.  29°  17'  north,  and 
nearly  450  miles  from  New  Orleans.  It  is  the  most  important  city  of  the  State, 
and  has  a  good  harbor,  with  sufficient  depth  of  water  to  float  all  ordinary  vessels. 
Galveston  has  an  extensive  and  active  trade.  It  has  7  or  8  churches,  4  printing 
offices,  several  large  hotels  and  a  population  of  about  7500. 

THE    BRAZOS   RIVER 

Rises  in  the  western  part  of  Texas,  and  runs  first  easterly,  then  south-easterly, 
and  enters  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  about  45  miles  south-west  of  Galveston.  Its  whole 
length  is  between  900  and  1000  miles,  and  it  is  navigable  during  high  water,  some 
300  miles,  the  country  along  its  course  is  generally  very  fertile,  and  produces 
large  crops  of  cotton,  sugar,  and  corn.  There  are  extensive  forests  of  red  cedar 
and  live  oak  on  some  parts  of  its  course.  The  lower  part  of  the  Brazos  flows 
through  a  level  country,  but  slightly  elevated  above  the  sea. 

The  principal  towns  on  this  river  arc,  Waco  Villac/e,  McLennan  co.  Nashville, 
below,  in  Milam  co.  Washington,  Washington  co.  San  Felipe,  Austin  co. 
Richmond,  capital  of  Fort  Bend  co.  Columbia,  Brazoria  co.  Velasco,  in  same 
CO.,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Brazos. 

THE    COLORADO   RIVER 

Takes  its  rise  in  the  north-western  part  of  Texas,  and  after  a  course  of  between 
800  and  900  miles,  empties  into  Matagorda  bay.  It  is  navigable  for  small 
steamers,  during  the  rainy  season,  200  or  300  miles.  The  lower  part  of  its 
course,  like  the  Brazos,  flows  through  a  rich  alluvial  plain,  occupied  by  cotton, 
rice,  corn,  and  sugar  plantations. 

The  principal  towns  on  the  Colorado  are,  Austin,  capital  of  the  State,  and 
county  seat  of  Travis  co.  (Austin  is  delightfully  situated  in  a  fine  region  of 
country,  and  is  a  flourishing  city.  Population  about  3500.)  Bastrop,  below, 
capital  of  Bastrop  co.  La  Grange,  Fayette  co.  Columbus,  county  seat 
of  Colorado  co.  Wharton,  capital  of  Wharton  co.  Frcston,  in  same  co. 
Matagorda,  at  the  mouth  of  Colorado  river,  and  on  Matagorda  bay,  (this  is  a 
place  of  considerable  business,  population  about  1500.  There  is  a  light-house 
at  this  point.) 


LAVACCA— NUECES— RIO    GRANDE   RIVERS.         65 

THE  LAVACCA    RIVER 

Is  a  small  stream,  which  rises  ia  Lavacca  co,  Texas.  It  is  navigable  to 
Texana,  Jackson  co.,  about  20  miles.     It  empties  into  Lavacca  bay. 

Port  Lavacca,  capital  of  Calhoun  co.,  Texas,  on  the  west  side  of 
Lavacca  bay.  Indianola,  Calhoun  CO.;  on  the  same  side  of  Lavacca  bay  aa 
Port  Lavacca. 

La  Salle,  Calhoun  co.,  Texas,  on  the  south-west  side  of  Matagorda  bay. 

Port  Cavallo,  in  same  co.,  on  a  point  of  land  at  the  entrance  of  Mata- 
gorda bay,  about  o3  miles  west  of  Matagorda.  Saluria,  same  co.,  at  the  north- 
eastern end  of  Matagorda  island,  and  entrance  to  the  bay. 

THE   GUADULUPE    RIVER 

Takes  its  rise  in  Bexar  co.,  Texas,  and  after  a  course  of  between  200  and 
300  miles,  enters  the  San  Antonio  some  15  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  land  on 
the  course  of  this  river  is  very  rich. 

The  most  important  towns  on  Guadulupe  river  are,  Sisterville,  Comal  co. 
N^ew  Brauvfeh,  below  capital  of  Comal  co.  Gonzales,  capital  of  Gronzales  co. 
Clintoiij  capital  of  De  Witt  co.      Victoria,  capital  of  Victoria  co. 

THE   SAN    ANTONIO   RIVER 

Rises  in  Bexar  co.,  Texas,  and  enters  Espirito  Santo  bay  opposite  Matagorda 
island. 

The  principal  towns  on  San  Antonio  river  are  Castorville,  capital  of  Medina 
CO.     Helena,  capital  of  Carnes  co.      Goliad,  capital  of  Goliad  co. 

THE   MISSION   RIVER 

Is  a  small  stream  running  through  Refugio  co.,  Texas,  into  Aransas  bay. 
Refugio,  capital  of  county  of  same  name,  is  situated  a  short  distance  above 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Lamar,  and  Copano,  are  small  villages  on  Aransas 
bay,  in  Ilefugio  co. 

THE   ARANSAS    RIVER 

Is  a  small  stream.     It  empties  into  the  bay  of  same  name. 

THE   NUECES    RIVER 

Rises  in  the  western  part  of  Texas,  and  after  a  very  circuitous  course  of  between 
350  and  400   miles,  it  empties  into  the  Corpus  Christi  bay,  in  latitude  27°  30 
north.     It  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  about  125  miles. 

SanPatrico,   in   county  of  same   name,   on   Nueces   river.      Baranca 

Blanca,  below,  in  Nueces  co. 

Corpus  Christi.,  capital  of  Nueces  co.,  Texas,  is  situated  at  &e  mouth  of 
Nueces  river,  on  Corpiis  Christi  bay. 

THE   RIO    GRANDE 

Takes  its  rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  in  its  course,  forms  the  boundary 
between  Mexico  and  Texas.  Its  whole  length  is  about  2000  miles.  It  enters 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  in  latitude  25°  north.  It  is  mostly  a  shallow  river,  and 
navigation  is  greatly  obstructed  by  sand  bars  and  rapid.s.  It  is  navigable  for 
small  steamers,  in  the  highest  stages  of  water,  for  about  400  miles. 

Some  of  the  most  important  places  on  Ilio  Grande  are,  El  Paso,  Mexico,  near 
the  north-western  boundary  of  El  Paso  co.,  Texas.  San  Elazario,  below,  in 
El  Paso  CO.  Fort  Leaton,  Presidio  co.,  Texas.  McKinney,  McKinney  co. 
Kingsbury's  Rapids,  in  same  CO.,  (about  400  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
river ;  stone  coal  is  found  a  short  distance  above  these  rapids.)  Palafos^  Webb 
CO.  Furt  Mcintosh,  and  Laredo,  in  same  co.  Alamo,  Starr  co.  Mier,  in  Mexico. 
Roma,  in  Starr  co.,  Texas.  Rio  Grande  city,  capital  of  Starr  CO.,  (Population 
about  1000.)    San  Francisco,  in  Mexico,  (opposite  Rio  Grande  city.)  Edinburgj 

5 


66  JiOUTES  ON  THE    GULF  OF    MEXICO. 

m  Hidalgo  co.,  Texas.  Reinosa,  Mexico.  Santa  Rita,  Mexico.  Matamoras, 
Mexico. 

Brownsville,  opposite  Matamoras,  is  the  county  seat  of  Cameron  co.,  Texas, 
and  one  of  the  most  important  towns  in  the  State.  It  has  a  hirge  trade  with 
Mexico.  Population  about  5000.  An  important  battle  was  fought  here,  in  1846, 
between  the  Mexican  and  U.  S.  troops,  in  which  the  latter  were  victorious. 
Brownsville  is  situated  about  38  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  liio  Grande. 

Point  Isabel,  same  co.,  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  Laguna  del  Madre, 
about  80  miles  east  of  Brownsville. 

Vera  Cruz,  capital  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz,  Mexico,  is  situated  on  tho 
south-west  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  19°  12'  north  latitude,  and  96°  9'  west  longi- 
tude, and  has  an  average  annual  temperature  of  77°.  It  is  the  principal  seaport  of 
Mexico,  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  Spanish  towns  on  the  continent.  'J'he  present  city  of 
Vera  Cruz  was  founded  by  Count  de  Monterey,  near  the  close  of  the  I6th  century,  and  is 
situated  about  15  miles  from  the  old  town,  planted  in  1519,  by  Cortes,  who,  guided  by 
religious  superstition,  named  it  "  La  Villa  Rica,"  or.  The  rich  tmcn  of  the  true  Cross. 
Before  approaching  the  city,  the  lofty  peak  of  Orizaba  comes  in  view,  with  its  cap  of 
eternal  snow,  rearing  its  head  far  above  the  region  of  the  drifting  clouds,  which  hover 
around  its  summit. 

The  city  is  enclosed  by  walls,  and  the  streets  are  wide,  regular,  well-paved,  and  lighted 
by  232  lamps.  The  houses  are  mostly  two  stories  high,  with  flat  roofs,  and  built  of  sub- 
marine stone,  obtained  from  the  sea-shore.  The  red  and  white  cupolas,  numerous  towers, 
and  battlements,  present  a  beautiful  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  sea.  The  harbor  is 
very  insecure,  on  account  of  the  rocky  state  of  the  coast  and  the  severity  of  the  gales,  that 
prevail  here  during  a  large  portion  of  the  year.  The  public  buildings  consist  of  hospitals, 
churches,  and  convents,  and  a  custom-house,  all  remarkable  for  their  size  and  solidity, 
rather  than  for  their  architectural  beauty.  The  climate  of  the  city,  owing  to  the  reflected 
heat  from  the  numerous  sand  hills  without  the  walls,  and  the  scarcity  of  water,  is 
extremely  unhealthy,  especially  to  foreigners.  It  is,  perhaps,  more  subject  to  yellow  fever 
than  any  other  place  on  the  coast. 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Vera  Cruz,  produces  every  thing  in  abundance. 
Cattle  roam  in  vast  numbers  over  the  plains,  which,  when  properly  cultivated,  yield 
annually  two  abundant  crops  of  corn,  and  tropical  fruit  of  a  superior  quality.  The  table- 
lands vary  so  little  in  temperature,  that  they  will  produce  most  of  the  grains  and  fruits 
common  to  both  temperate  and  torrid  zones. 

Vera  Cruz  has  been  besieged  and  taken  near  ten  times — once  by  a  band  of  robbers — 
twice  by  the  independent  and  ministerial  troops — three  or  four  times  by  the  Spaniards — 
once  by  the  French — and  lastly  by  the  Americans,  under  Gen(;ral  Scott.  The  castle  of 
San  Juan  de  Ulloa  commands  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  is  the  most  celebrated 
fortress  in  America.  It  was  commenced  in  1582,  on  a  small  island  or  bar,  a  little  more  than 
1000  yards  distant  from  the  town.  The  cost  of  this  great  work,  whose  foundations,  buried 
deep  in  the  sea,  have  resisted  for  near  three  centuries  the  lashing  of  its  waves,  and  the  fleets 
of  the  most  powerful  nations,  is  estimated  at  forty  millions  of  dollars.  The  walls  are  from 
four  to  five  yards  in  thickness.  There  are  seven  large  cisterns  within  the  castle,  which 
contain  93,767  cubic  feet  of  water.     Its  full  equipment  of  artillery  pieces  is  367. 

The  population  of  Vera  Cruz  is  15,000,  and  its  commerce,  very  extensive.  Most  of  the 
goods  for  the  interior  pass  tlirough  tliis  place.  It  is  connected  with  the  city  of  Mexico, 
by  an  excellent  road,  along  which,  stages  and  merchandise  are  constantly  passing.  A 
regular  communication  is  kept  up  by  sea,  with  the  various  United  States  and  European 
ports . 

Chagres  and  Panama ,  situated  in  the  republic  of  New  Grenada,  on  opposite 

sides  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  are,  from  the  great  amount  of  travel  to  California,  fast 
becoming  important  places.  Chagres  is  on  the  Chagres  river,  7  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  is  tlie  landing  place  of  all  those  who  are  going  to  California,  by  way  of  the  Isthmus. 
The  Chagres  river  is  navigable  as  far  as  Cruzes,  which  is  but  15  miles  from  Panama. 
The  passage  across  the  Isthmus,  formerly  performed  on  mules,  was,  during  the  rainy 
season,  extremely  difticult.  It  is  now  crossed  by  the  Panama  Railway.  The  climate 
is    very  unhealthy,  and  few  foreigners  think  of  remaining  long  in  the  place. 

AsriNWALL,  Navy  Bay,  near  Chagres,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Aspinwall  and  Panama 
Railroad— across  the  Isthmus,  46  miles — and  the  depot  of  steamers  from  New  York. 

Panama,  ou  the  Bay  of  Panama,  Pacific  coast,  is  a  fortified  town,  having  considerable 
trade. 

The  population  of  Chagres  is  2000,  and  of  Panama  10,000. 

Being  one  of  the  regular  stopping  points  of  the  New  York,  New  Orleans,  and  Chagres 
steamers,  we  here  insert  a  short  description  of 


ST.  PETERS'  — ST.   CROIX  RIVERS.  67 

Havana,  the  capital  of  the  island  of  Cuba,  is  situated  in  the  north-western 
part  of  the  island,  in  23°  9'  north  latitude,  and  82°  23'  west  lon},'itude.  This  city  has 
one  of  the  most  secure  and  commodious  harbors  in  the  world.  Its  entrance  is  through  a 
small  channel,  admitting  but  a  single  ship  ;  but  within  lliu  basin  it  will  contain  a  tliousand 
ships.  The  harbor  is  sheltered  from  the  wind  by  the  surrounding  heights,  and  the  chan- 
nel, which  communicates  with  the  sea,  is  eight  or  ten  fatlioms  deep.  On  the  hills  opposite 
the  city,  there  is  a  continuous  row  of  forts,  from  wh.ose  outer  parapet,  elevated  150  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  and  its  environs  can  be  obtained. 
These  works  are  said  to  have  cost  forty  millions  of  dollars. 

The  greatest  object  of  attraction  in  Havana,  is  tlie cathedral.  It  is  built  of  coral  rock, 
of  a  yellowish  color,  whicli  gives  it  the  appearance  of  great  age.  In  this  cathedral  are 
deposited  the  remains  of  Columbus.  His  bones  rest  on  the  right  hand  of  the  altar,  in  a 
small  recess  in  the  wall.  On  the  left  hand  side  of  the  altar,  hangs  the  painting  which 
was  tlie  constant  companion  of  Columbus  during  his  eventful  voyages.  Columbus  died 
at  Valladolid,  May  20.  IJOG,  and  his  body  was  deposited  in  the  Convent  of  St.  Fran- 
cisco. In  1513,  his  remains,  and  those  ol  his  son,  were  removed  to  Seville.  In  1536, 
they  were  removed  to  Hispaniola,  where  they  remained  till  1795.  His  remains  were 
then  collected  and  carried  in  great  pomp  to  Havana,  where  they  now  rest. 

Moro  and  I'unta  castles  are  very  strong  works.  Tlie  arsenal  and  dockyard  arc  also  on 
a  grand  scale.  The  citv,  when  viewed  from  a  distance,  presents  a  most  beautiful  appear- 
ance.    Population  140,000. 

Vessels  run  regularly  from  Havana  to  New  Orleans,  and  most  of  the  Atlantic  ports. 
Also,  to  all  the  important  seaports  of  Europe. 


THE  ST.  PETERS,  OR  MINNESOTA  RIVER 

This  river  has  a  total  length  of  nearly  450  miles,  and  is  navigable  for  steamboats  50  or 
60  miles.  The  principal  towns  on  its  banks  are  South  Bend  City,  in  Blue  Earth  co.,  Minn., 
(about  100  miles  from  Fort  Snclling)  ;  Mankato,  in  same  co.,  3  miles  below  ;  St.  Peters, 
in  Nicollet  co.,  8  miles  below  ;  Travrse  Des  Sioux,  ^  miles  below,  in  same  co.  ;  Le  Sueur, 
8  miles  below,  in  Le  Seuer  co.  ;  Henderson,  6  miles  below,  in  Sibley  co.  ;  Cliasca,  Scott 
CO.,  34  miles  below  ;  Carver,  in  same  co.,  2  miles  below  ;  Hennepin,  10  miles  below,  iu 
Hennepin  co. 

The  St.  Peters  empties  into  the  Mississippi  river  at  Fort  Suelling,  about  25  miles 
below  Hennepin.     (6Ve  Mississippi  river,) 

THE   ST.   CROIX  RIVER. 

Rises  in  the  north-western  part  of  Wis.,  near  Lake  Superior,  and  flows  southward 
till  it  reaches  the  Mississippi  in  44°  north  latitude.  It  is  about  200  miles  long,  and 
navigable  for  steamboats  about  60  miles.  Large  quantities  of  pine  lumber  are  annually 
brought  down  the  river  and  shipped  to  ports  below. 

St.  Croix  Falls,  capital  of  Polk  co.,  Wis.,  is  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation,  on  this  river. 

Osceola,  9  miles  below,  in  same  county. 

Marine  Mills,  Washington  co.,  Minn.,  9  miles  below. 

Stillwater,  county  scat  of  Washington  co.,  Minn.,  15  miles  below.  It 
contains  a  court-house,  land-office,  penitentiary,  saw  mills,  and  other  machinery 
propelled  by  water-power,  3  hotels,  a  number  of  stores  and  forwarding  houses. 
Settled  in  1843.  Population  about  2000.  The  surrounding  country  is  diversi- 
fied with  timber  and  prairie,  with  a  rich  soil,  watered  by  a  number  of  small 
lakes  and  streams,  abundantly  supplied  with  fish.  Stillwater  commands  a  large 
portion  of  the  lumber  trade  of  the  pineries  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  St.  Croix. 

Hudson,  county  seat  of  St.  Croix  co.,  Wis.,  5  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of 
Willow  river,  has  considerable  water-power,  and  contains  2  churches,  a  court- 
house, land  office,  and  several  stores  and  mills. 

Lake  St.  Croix,  commences  just  below  Iludson,  and  extends  to  near  the 
moutli  of  the  river;  it  is  a  mere  expansion  of  the  river.  Its  width  is  from  3  to 
4  miles.  The  St.  Croix  river  enters  the  Mississippi  16  miles  below  Hudson,  at 
Point  Douglas.     (^See  Mississijppi  River.) 


68  CHIPPEWA— WISCONSIN-ROCK  RIVERS. 

THE    CHIPPEWA   RIVER 

Rises  in  the  northern  part  of  Wis.,  near  the  head  waters  of  tlie  Montreal,  and  flows 
in  a  south-westerly  direction.  After  a  course  of  'tOO  miles,  it  joins  the  Mississippi  near 
the  tcnniuation  of  [>ake  Pepin.  Its  principal  branches  are  the  Clear-Water  and  Red 
Cedar  rivers.  It  is  navij^ablc  for  steamboats  70  miles.  The  shores  abound  with  pine 
forests.  The  nioutli  of  this  river  is  tlie  southern  boundary  of  tliat  tract  of  land  ki'own  as 
Ckirw.r's  Tract.  It  lies  principally  in  Crawford  county,  and  contains  an  area  of  more  than 
eight  millions  of  acres.  CajHain  Caj-ver  held  this  land  by  a  deed  obtained  from  the 
Indians,  May  1,  17G7.  It  commences  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  follows  the  Mis- 
sissippi to  the  mouth  of  the  Chippewa;  thence  cast,  about  100  miles  ;  thence  nortii  120 
miles  ;  and  thence,  in  a  direct  line,  to  the  Falls.  The  Mississippi  Land  Company,  of  Ne-\r 
York,  obtained,  in  1824,  a  recognized  deed  before  Judge  Van  Ness,  of  the  U.  S.  District 
Court,  New  York. 

Chippewa  Falls,  on  the  Chippewa  river,  is  the  capital  of  the  county  of 
same  name,  in  Wis.,  at  head  of  steamboat  navigation.  It  has  extensive  water- 
power,  and  a  number  of  mills.     Population  about  500. 

THE    WISCONSIN    RIVER 

Rises  in  some  small  lakes  near  the  northern  boundary  of  tlie  State,  and  after  a  south  and 
south-westerly  course  of  about  600  miles,  crossing  the  entire  State  of  Wis.,  it  enters  the 
Mississippi  in  43°  north  latitude,  '.\  tniles  below  Fort  Crawford.  It  is  navigable  for  steam- 
boats about  IGO  miles,  to  Portage  city,  where  a  short  canal  connects  witli  Fox  river,  which 
enters  Green  bay  at  Fort  Howard,  opening  navigation  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  northern 
lakes.  There  are  numerous  tributaries  emptying  into  the  Wisconsin  all  along  its  course, 
some  of  them  quite  large  streams. 

Wausau,  or  Big  Bull  Falls,  on  the  Wiscon.sin  river,  in  Marathon  co., 
Wis.,  170  miles  north  of  Madison,  capital  of  the  State.  Large  quantities  of 
lumber  are  annually  sent  down  the  river,  in  rafts,  from  this  point.  It  contains  a 
number  of  stores,  flouring  and  saw  mills,  and  a  population  of  about  500. 

Little  Bull  Falls,  about  18  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Stephen's  Point,  28  miles  below,  in  Portage  co.,  Wis.,  is  a  thriving  village, 
with  extensive  water-power,  and  the  adjacent  country  abounds  in  pines.  The 
lumber  business  of  this  place  is  very  extensive.  It  contains  a  number  of  stores, 
hotels,  mills,  and  manufacturing  establishments.     Population  about  700. 

Plover,  county  seat  of  Portage  co..  Wis.,  3  miles  below,  at  the  mouth 
of  Plover  river.  The  lumber  trade,  as  in  the  towns  above,  is  the  chief  business 
of  Plover.     Population  about  500. 

Portage  City,  county  scat  of  Columbia  co.,  Wis.,  115  miles  below,  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Wisconsin  Central  Railroad ;  and  a  canal,  a  few  miles  long, 
connects  the  Wisconsin  and  Fox  rivers  at  this  point,  as  mentioned  above.  Port- 
age city  is  a  flourishing  place,  and  increasing  rapidly,  it  contains  a  large  number 
of  stores,  hotels,  manufacturing  establishments,  a  bank,  and  2  printing  offices, 
and  commands  the  trade  of  a  large  district  of  country.     Population  about  3000. 

Prairie  du  Sac,  Sauk  co..  Wis.,  40  miles  below. 

Richland,  45  miles  below,  capital  of  llichland  co..  Wis.,  is  situated  on  Pine 
creek,  just  above  its  junction  with  the  Wisconsin,  with  abundance  of  water-power. 

Brooklyn,  Grant  co.,  Wis,  05  miles  below,  and  7  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Wisconsin  river. 

ROCK    RIVER 

Rises  in  Fon  du  Lnc  co.,  Wis.,  near  Lake  Winnebago,  and  flows  in  a  south-westerly 
course,  about  325  miles,  through  Wis.,  and  111.,  and  enters  tlie  Mississippi,  2  miles 
below  Rock  Island.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  about  225  miles,  during  high 
water.  The  country  through  which  this  river  passes,  is  reinarkuble  for  its  fertility  and 
beauty  of  scenery. 

Watertown,  Jefl"erson  co..  Wis.,  situated  on  llock  river,  at  the 
"  Great  Bend."  The  rapids  near  the  town  have  a  fall  of  about  25  feet,  afford- 
ing abundant  water-power.  Watertown  contains  7  or  8  flouring  and  saw  mills,  3 
printing  offices,  several  churches,  a  large  number  of  stores  and  manufactories  of 
diflfereut  kinds.     Population  about  4500.     It  was  settled  in  1836. 


IOWA    RIVER,  69 

Jefferson,  capital  of  Jefferson  co.,  Wis.,  is  a  flourisliiug  village,  16 
miles  below  Wutcrtown,  near  the  mouth  of  Cruwfisli  river.  It  has  iiue  water- 
power,  contains  a  number  of  churches  and  mills.  I'ojjulatiou  about  1500.  The 
llock  Kiver  A^illey  Railroad  passes  through  the  place. 

Fort  Atkinson,  8  miles  below,  is  a  thriving  village  in  the  same  county,  at 
the  mouth  of  Bark  river.  It  is  situated  in  a  rich  farming  region.  Population 
about  (300. 

Janesville,  county  seat  of  Rock  co.,  "Wis.,  34  miles  btlow,  is  beau- 
tifully situated,  and  contains  6  or  8  churches,  a  court-house,  a  female 
seminary,  the  State  asylum  for  the  blind,  4  printing  offices,  and  factories  and 
mills  of  different  kinds.  The  Milwaukee  and  Mississippi  Railroad  passes  through 
Janesville.     Population  about  GOOO.     Settled  in  1835. 

Beloit,  18  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.,  near  the  mouth  of  Turtle  creek, 
has  an  active  business  and  extensive  water-power,  it  has  several  fine  churches  and 
seminaries.  Beloit  College  is  located  here.  Population  about  4000.  A  branch 
of  the  Galena  and  Chicago  Railroad  extends  to  Beloit. 

Roscoe,  Winnebago  co.,  111.,  8  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  village.  It  haa 
good  water-power,  and  a  large  woollen  factory.      IVipulatiou  about  500. 

Eockford,  12  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Winnebago  co.,  111.  A 
large  business  is  transacted  here,  and  the  place  is  supplied  with  an  abundance  of 
water-power,  the  Chicago  and  Caleua  Railroad  passes  through  it.  Rockford con- 
tains 5  or  6  churches  and  2  printing  offices.     Population  about  4000. 

Byron  ,  Ogle  co..  111.,  12  miles  below. 

Oregon,  10  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.     Population  about  600. 

Dixon,  county  scat  of  Lcc  co.,  111.,  20  miles  below,  has  extensive  water- 
power.  It  is  on  the  line  of  the  Galena  branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad. 
It  contains  several  millS;  a  land  office,  2  or  3  churches,  and  court-house.  Popu- 
lation about  2500. 

Sterling,  Whiteside  CO.,  111.,  12  miles  below,  is  beautifully  located,  with 
extensive  water-power. 

Lyndon,  16  miles  below,  in  sameco.,  is  a  flourishing  village. 

Prophetstown,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  has  good  water-power. 

E  r  i  e  ,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Camden  ,  35  miles  below,  in  Rock  Island  co..  111.,  near  the  mouth  of  Rock 
river.     It  has  an  abundance  of  water-power,  and  a  number  of  fine  mills. 

THE    IOWA    RIVER 

Enters  the  Mississippi  just  below  Now  Boston,  26  miles  btlow  Muscatine.  It  takes  its 
rise  in  Hancock  co.,  lo.,  and  flows  in  a  south-east  direction.  Its  lentrth  is  about  309 
miles,  and  is  navigable  for  small  steamboats,  about  80  miles,  during  high  water. 

Hardin,  on  the  Iowa  river,  in  Hardin  co.,  lo.,  Eldora,  below,  in  same 
CO.  Marietta,  below,  in  Marshall  co.,  lo.  Toledo,  below,  in  Tama  co.,  lo. 
Marengo,  below,  in  lo.  co. 

Iowa  City,  capital  of  the  State,  and  county  seat  of  Johnson  co.,  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  a  high  bank  of  the  Iowa  river,  SO  miles  from  its  mouth  It 
was  laid  out  in  1839.  The  state-house  is  a  fine  edifice,  built  of  "  Birdsoye 
Marble,"  quarried  in  the  neighborhood.  The  city  contains  7  churches,  1  college, 
1  academy,  and  3  printing  offices.  The  river  affords  abundant  water-power  for 
manufacturing  purposes.  Population  about  4000.  Johnson  co.  is  in  a  rich 
agricultural  region,  well  adapted  to  raising  stock,  wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  &c. 

Port    Allen,  Louisa  co.,  lo.,  35  miles  below  Iowa  city. 

Concord,  10  miles  below,  in  sameco. 

Wapello,  county  seat  of  Louisa  co.,  lo.,  12  miles  below,  it  has  fine  water- 


70  DES   MOINES   RIVER. 

power,  and   contains    several    mills,  and  a  printing  office.     Laid    out  in  1839 
Pop.  about  1000.    The  Iowa  river  enters  the  Mis^sissippi  23  miles  below  Wapello. 

THE    DES    MOINES    EIVER 

Rises  in  the  southern  part  of  Minnesota,  and,  after  a  course  of  400  miles,  joins  the 
Missibsippi,  4  miles  below  Keokuk.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  about  aOO  miles.  Its 
course  is  through  an  exceedingly  rich  and  fertile  region,  with  numerous  prairies. 

Fort  Dodge,  on  the  [)qa  Moines  viver,  about  300  miles  from  its  mouth,  in 
Webster  co.,  io.  Buuiisboio,  below,  in  liooue  co.,  lo.,  capital  of  Boone  co. 
Population  about  350. 

Fort  Des  Moines,  capital  of  Polk  co.,  To.,  on  the  Des  Moines  river,  at 
the  point  where  Puicoou  river  enters  it.  It  contains  several  schools  and  churches, 
a  printing  office,  and  a  number  of  stores  and  manufactories.  The  rivers  furnish 
extensive  water-power.  Fort  Des  Moines  is  about  220  miles,  following  the 
course  of  the  river,  from  the  Mississippi.  It  was  laid  out  in  184G.  Population 
estimated  at  1500,  and  increasing  rapidly.  The  river  is  navigable  to  this  place, 
fur  small  steamboats,  during  high  water. 

Dudley,  14  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Lafayette,  5  nriles  below,  in  same  co. 

Bennington,  Marion  co.,  Io,  about  10  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

EedEoek,  IG  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  thriving  place.     Pop.  about  500. 

Amsterdam,  12  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Bellefontaine,  Mahaska  co.,  Io.,  12  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Auburn,  a  small  place,  12  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Des  Moines  City,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Eddyville,  2  miles  below  Des  Moines  city,  in  Wapello  co.,  is  a  flourishing 
village,  with  a  number  of  churches  and  schools. 

Chillicothe,  in  the  same  co.,  8  miles  below. 

Ottnmwa,  county  seat  of  Wapello  co.,  Io,  12  miles  below,  is  a  thriving 
town,  with  abundance  of  water-power,  and  surrounded  by  a  fertile  country.  It 
has  several  mills  and  manufacturing  establishments. 

lowaville.  Van  Buren  co.,  Io.,  20  miles  below,  has  2  flouring  mills 
and  1  distillery. 

New  Market,  just  below,  in  same  co. 

Portland,  in  same  co.,  6  miles  below. 

Philadelphia,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Pittsburg,  7  miles  below,  in  Van  Buren  co. 

Keosauqua,  capital  of  Van  Buren  co.,  Io.,  5  miles  below,  is  a  thriving 
town.  It  contains  a  number  of  schools  and  churches,  several  grist  and  saw  mills, 
a  paper  mill,  and  a  number  of  manufacturing  establishments.     Pop.  about  1200. 

Pleasant  Hill,  nearly  opposite  Keosauqua,  in  same  co. 

Bentonsport,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  flourishing  village,  with  good 
water-power,  and  several  mills  and  manufactories. 

Vernon,  just  below,  in  same  co.,  is  also  a  thriving  place. 

Bonaparte ,  5  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  has  several  grist  and  saw  mills,  and 
an  extensive  woollen  factory. 

Farmington,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  flourishing  town,  containing 
several  flouring  and  saw  mills,  a  foundry,  and  an  engine  shop.     Pop.  about  1000. 
Black  Hawk,  3  miles  below,  in  Clark  co.,  Mo. 
Croton,  3  miles  below,  in  Lee  co.,  Io. 

Athens,  5  miles  below,  in  Clark  co.,  Mo.,  has  good  water-power,  and 
several  mills. 


ILLINOIS  RIVER.  71 

Belfast,  6  miles  below,  in  Lee  co.,  lo. 
Niagara,  Ckrk  co.,  Mo.,  5  miles  below. 

St.  Francisville,  5  miles  below,  iu  same  co.,  is  a  thriving  village. 
Churchville,  14  miles  below,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Des  Moines,  into 
the  Mississippi  river. 

THE   ILLINOIS    RIVER 

Is  formed  by  the  union  of  tlie  Kiiukakce  and  Des  Plaines  rivers  at  Dresden,  Grundy  co., 
111.  Above  the  mouth  of  Vermilion  river,  it  is  greatly  obstructed  by  rapids  ;  but  below 
this  point  the  current  is  gentle,  and  the  river  is  navigable  for  steamboats  during  most  of 
the  year.  The  country  bordering  on  the  river,  is  very  rich  and  productive,  and  the  com- 
merce on  it  very  large.  Steamboats  ascend  the  river  about  "250  miles,  wliere,  by  the  aid 
of  the  Illinois  and  Micliigan  Canal,  a  direct  communication  is  opened  with  the  lakes  at 
(Jhicau-o.  On  the  banks  of  this  river,  the  French  emigrants  from  Canada,  settled  them- 
selves, and  here  was  the  scenery  on  whicli  they  founded  their  extravagant  panegyrics  upou 
the  western  country. 

Dresden,  is  at  the  head  of  the  Illinois  river,  as  mentioned  above,  and  about 
325  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi.  Population  300.  The  Illinois 
and  Michigan  Canal  passes  through  the  place. 

Morris,  10  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Grundy  co..  111.,  and  an  important 
shipping  point  for  produce.  The  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  llailroad  passes 
through  Morris.     Population  about  1000. 

Clarkson,  a  small  village  in  same  county,  4  miles  below.     Pop.  about  160. 

Marseilles,  17  miles  below,  in  La  Salle  co.,  is  a  thriving  town.  The  Grand 
Rapids  of  the  Illinois  at  this  place,  affords  an  iiuniense  water-power.  There  are 
a  number  of  mills  of  various  kinds,  and  a  population  of  500.  The  Illinois  and 
Michigan  Canal  passes  here. 

0  ttowa,  9  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  La  Salle  co..  111.,  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  and  on  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal,  near  the  mouth  of  Fox 
river.  The  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Railroad  passes  through  the  town.  Fox 
river,  furnishes  an  immense  water-power  by  a  fall  of  about  80  feet.  Stone  coal 
is  found  near  Ottowa.  It  contains  a  number  of  churches,  mills,  and  factories, 
and  2  printin"'  offices.     Ponulation  about  o800. 

IT  O  J. 

Utica,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  thriving  village. 

La  Salle,  5  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  flourishing  town  at  the  terminus 
of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal.  The  river  is  navigable  for  steamboats  to  this 
point.  A  large  manufacturing  and  commercial  business  is  carried  on  here.  The 
neighboring  country  is  exceedingly  rich  and  productive.  The  Galena  branch  of 
the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  passes  through  La  Salle.     Population  about   3500. 

The  Illinois  &  Micliigan  Canal. — This  important  work  was  com- 
menced in  the  year  ISoG,  and  huished  in  1848.  Its  length  is  100  miles,  is  60 
feet  wide  at  top,  and  36  at  bottom,  and  is  6  feet  deep.  There  are  17  locks,  each 
110  feet  long,  and  18  feet  wide,  being  large  enough  for  vessels  of  120  tuns  burden. 
The  entire  cost  of  the  work  was  §6,600,000. 

Peru,  2  miles  below  La  Salle,  in  same  co.,  is  a  place  of  active  business,  and 
improving  rapidly.  It  has  fine  water-power  advantages.  There  are  rich  veins 
of  stone  coal  in  the  vicinity.  The  Central  Railroad,  and  Chicago  and  Rock  Island, 
intersect  here.     Population  nearly  the  same  as  La  Salle. 

Hennepin,  county  seat  of  Putnam  co.,  17  miles  below,  in  the  Great  Bend 
of  the  III.  river.  The  location  is  a  beautiful  one,  being  elevated  by  a  gradual 
and  gentle  ascent,  to  a  height  of  about  25  feet  above  the  river.  This  town  was 
named  in  honor  of  Louis  Hennepin,  a  Franciscan  friar,  and  one  of  the  early 
explorers  of  the  north-west.  It  contains  a  court-house,  jail,  2  churches,  a  number 
of  stores,  and  about  800  inhabitants.  Hennepin  has  an  active  trade  in  shipping 
and  receiving  produce  and  merchandise. 


72-  THE   ILLINOIS    RIVElt. 

West  Hennepin,  Bureau  co.,  nearly  opposite. 

Henry,  IMaraluill  co.,  13  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  village.  Large  quan- 
tities of  produce  are  sliipped  from  Henry.     Population  1000. 

Lacon,  G  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Marshall  co.  It  is  a  thriving  town, 
and  has  an  active  trade.     Population  1000. 

Chilli cothe,  Peoria  co.,  13  miles  below,  at  the  head  of  Peoria  lake,  is  a 
shipping  poiut  of  importance.     Population  about  700. 

Peoria  Lake,  is  an  expansion  of  the  Illinois  river,  commencing  at  the 
town  of  Chillicothe,  and  extending  in  a  southerly  direction  for  a  distance  of  22 
miles.  It  has  very  little  current,  and  the  water  is  beautifully  clear  and  trans- 
parent, so  much  so,  that  the  fish,  of  which  there  is  a  great  abundance,  can  be 
distinctly  seen  swimming  about,  and  performing  their  various  evolution.s,  far 
beneath  the  surface. 

Rome,  4  miles  below  Chillicothe,  in  same  co.,on  the  west  bank  of  Peoria  lake. 

Spring  Bay,  4  miles  below,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  in  Woodford 
CO.,  is  a  flourishiug  village  doing  an  active  shipping  business. 

Detroit,  7  miles  below,  in  Peoria  co. 

Little  Detroit,  2  miles  below,  in  Woodford  co. 

Peoria,  5  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Peoria  co.,  is  handsomely  situated  at  the 
southern  end  of  Peoria  lake.  The  town  lies  on  two  tables  of  land,  the  first 
being  about  12  feet  above  the  water's  edge,  and  the  second  5  or  6  feet  higher, 
and  extending  back  some  distance  to  the  bluffs,  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  which 
rise  100  feet  above  the  general  level.  It  contains,  besides  the  county  buildings, 
10  or  12  churches,  6  printing  offices,  a  number  of  schools  and  seminaries,  mills 
and  manufacturing  establishments,  and  has  a  very  large  trade  in  pork,  grain, 
lumber,  &c.     The  Peoria  andOquaka  Eailroadhas  a  terminus  here.     Pop.  12,000. 

Wesley  City,  4  miles  below,  in  Tazewell  co.,  is  a  thriving  village. 

Pekin,  7  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  an  important  town,  and  has  an  active 
trade.  It  contains  2  or  3  printing  offices,  and  several  schools,  churches,  and 
steam  mills.     Population  about  3000. 

Liverpool,  Fulton  co.,  28  miles  below.     Population  about  800.    ■ 

Havana,  9  miles  below,  capital  of  Mason  co.,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Spoon 
river,  is  a  flourishing  town  and  finely  situated  on  a  high  ridge,  50  feet  above  high 
water  mark.     Population  about  1100. 

Bath,  in  same  co.,  12  miles  below,  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  country. 

Sangamon  River,  enters  the  Illinois,  18  miles  below. 

Fredericksville,  3  miles  below,  in  Schuyler  co.,  is  a  thriving  village, 
doing  a  large  business  in  the  shipping  of  produce. 

Beardstown,  4  miles  below,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  county 
seat  of  Cass  co.  It  has  an  active  trade,  and  2  or  3  churches,  a  printing  office, 
the  usual  county  buildings,  and  a  population  of  about  600. 

La  Grange,  Brown  co.,  8  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Meredosia,  9  miles  below,  in  Morgan  co.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Illinois,  on  a  fine  elevation.  It  contains  2  steam  mills,  a  number  of 
stores,  and  a  population  of  400. 

Naples,  7  miles  below,  in  Scott  co.,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  is  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  town.  It  contains  2  churches,  3  steam  mills,  a  number  of 
stores,  a  printing  office,  and  a  population  of  about  1000.  The  Morgan  and  Sanga- 
mon Railway  terminates  here,  which  connects  Naples  with  Springfield,  the  State  cap- 
ital, about  55  miles  east.     Large  quantities  of  produce  are  shipped  from  this  point 

Florence,  Pike  co.,  10  miles  below,  has  a  good  landing. 


THE  MISSOURI  RIVER.  ^^ 

Mouteznma,  6  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  good  shipping  point. 

Bridgeport,  Green  co.,  6  miles  below,  is  a  small  village,  and  good  shipping 
point  fur  produce. 

Newport,  8  miles  below,  in  same  countj,  is  a  small  place. 

Hardin,  county  seat  of  Calhoun  co.,  14  miles  below.     Population  about  650. 

Guilford,  4  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Monterey,  in  same  co.,4  miles  beh^w,  and  13  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Iliiuois  river,  which  empties  into  the  Mississippi,  18  miles  above  Alton. 

THE    MISSOURI    RIVER 

Rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  takes  its  name  after  tlie  nnion  of  three  branches,  the 
Jeftersoii,  Gallatin,  and  Madison.  The  springs  whicl)  give  rise  to  the  Missouri  river,  are 
not  more  than  a  mile  distant  from  some  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia  river,  which 
run,  in  a  contrary  direction,  into  the  Pacific  ocean. 

At  the  distance  of  441  miles  from  the  extretne  point  of  the  navigation  of  the  head 
branches  of  the  Missouri,  are  what  arc  denominated  the  "  Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains," 
which  present  an  exceedingly  grand  and  picturesque  appearance.  For  the  distance  of 
about  b  miles,  the  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  margin  of  the  river,  to  the  hei"-ht 
of  1200  feet.  The  river  is  compressed  to  the  breath  of  150  yards,  and  for  the  first  3  miles, 
there  is  but  one  spot,  and  that  only  of  a  few  yards,  on  whicli  a  man  can  stand  between 
the  water  and  the  perpendicular  ascent  of  the  mountain.  At  the  distance  of  110  miles 
below,  and  551  miles  from  the  source  of  the  river,  are  the  "  Great  Falls,"  2,575  miles  from 
the  egress  of  the  river  into  the  Mississippi.  At  this  place  the  river  descends,  by  a  suc- 
Bion  of  rapids  and  falls,  a  distance  of  357  feet  in  I6i.<  miles.  The  lower  and  greater  fall 
has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  98  feet,  the  second  of  ll),  the  third  of  47,  and  the  fourth  of 
26  feet.  Between  and  below  these  falls  are  continual  rapids  of  from  3  to  18  feet  descent. 
These  falls  next  to  those  of  Niagara,  are  the  grandest  on  the  continent.  Above  the 
falls,  the  course  of  the  rives  is  northv/artlly. 

The  length  of  the  Missouri  river,  from  its  source  to  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi,  is 
3,096  miles,  which,  with  the  addition  of  1,353  miles,  the  distance  from  the  mouih  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  makes  a  total  length  of  4,449  miles,  being  the  longest  river  in  the  world. 
Through  its  whole  course,  there  is  no  substantial  obstruction  to  the  navigation,  before 
arriving  at  the  "  Great  Falls."  Its  principal  tributaries  are  each  navigable  from  1  to  800 
miles.  Through  the  greater  part  of  its  course,  the  Missouri  is  a  rapid  and  turbid  stream, 
and  in  the  upper  part  it  flows  through  an  arid  and  sterile  country.  It  is  over  half  a  mile 
wide  at  its  mouth, and  is  generally  nearly  a  mile  in  width.  Notwithstanding  itdrainssuch 
an  extensive  region  of  country,  and  receives  so  many  large  tributaries,  it  is,  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year,  quite  shallow,  not  aifording  suflicient  water  for  steamboat  navigation, 
owing  to  its  passage  through  a  dry  and  open  country,  and  being  subject  to  more  than  usual 
evaporation. 

The  Missouri  river  trade  has  became  a  very  important  one,  and  the  annual  business 
between  St.  Louis  and  the  towns  on  the  river,  and  with  Santa  Fe,  through  Independence, 
is  increasing  with  an  amazing  rapidity. 

Tlie  Missouri  river  enters  the  Mississippi,  18  miles  above  St.  Louis,  by  a  mouth  mnch 
wider  than  the  upper  Mississippi.  It  is  the  opinion  of  many  geographers,  that  the 
Missouri  river  is  the  main  river,  and  should  be  considered  as  one  river  from  its  head  to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  reascms  in  support  of  this  opinion  are,  that  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri,  the  Mississippi  has  the  same  turbulent  apjK-arance  as  the  Missouri  ;  while 
the  upper  Mississippi  is  remarkable  for  its  clearness  and  transparency. 

There  are  some  peculiarities  of  the  Missouri  river,  which  it  is  highly  important  for 
emigrants,  who  design  settling  on  its  banks,  to  understand.  The  river  has  no  permanent 
and  settled  channel,  and  it  is  on  this  account  that  steamboats  are  generally  compelled  to 
lay  up  in  the  night,  it  not  being  considered  safe  to  run  unless  with  the  liijht  of  day  to 
guide  them.  Many  persons  who  have  purchased  farms  on  the  banks  of  this  river,  not 
understanding  the  nature  of  the  current,  have  lost  acre  after  acre  by  the  washino-  away 
of  the  soil.  Not  only  have  farms  suffered  in  this  w.ay,  but  whole  towns  have  been  laid 
w.a.ste,  and  swept  off  with  tlie  resistless  current  of  this  mighty  river,  compelling  the  in- 
habitants to  seek  other,  and  more  permanent  places  of  abode. 

The  channel  is  rendered  intricate  by  the  great  number  of  islands  and  sand-bars  ;  and 
in  many  places  the  navigation  is  made  very  hazardous  by  the  rafts,  snags,  banks,  d-c. 
The  river  begins  to  rise  in  March,  and  continues  till  July,  when  the  summer  fluods  of  its 
remote  tributaries  come  in.  During  this  period,  there  is  sufficient  depth  of  water  for 
steamboats  of  almost  any  class  ;  but  during  the  remainder  of  the  year,  it  is  liardly  navi- 
gable for  any  distance,  for  the  smallest  vessels  that  float  upon  the  western  waters. 


74  THE  MISSOURI  RIVER. 

"  The  bottoms  of  this  river  have  a  character  very  distinguishable  from  those  of  the 
upper  Mississippi.  They  are  higher,  iiol  so  wet,  more  sandy,  with  trees  which  are  not  so 
laro-e,  but  taller  and  straighter.  Its  alluvions  are  some  thing  narrower  ;  that  is  to  s^, 
havin"  for  the  first  500  miles  a  medial  width  of  something  more  than  4  miles.  Its  blutfs, 
like  tiiosc  of  the  other  river,  are  generally  limestone,  but  not  so  perpendicular,  and  have 
more  tendency  to  run  into  the  mamelle  form.  The  bottoms  abound  with  deer,  turkeys,  and 
small  game.  The  river  seldom  overflows  any  part  of  its  banks  in  this  distance.  It  is 
little  inclined  to  be  swampv.  There  is  much  fewer  lakes,  bayous,  and  small  ponds,  than 
along  the  Mississippi.  Prairies  are  scarcely  seen  on  tlie  banks  of  the  river,  within  the 
distance  of  the  first  400  miles  of  its  course.  It  is  heavily  timbered  ;  and  yet,  from  the 
softness  of  the  wood,  easily  cleared.  Tlie  water,  though  uncommonly  turbid  with  a 
whitish  earth,  which  it  holds  in  suspension,  soon  and  easily  settles,  and  is  then  remark- 
ably pure,  pleasant,  and  healthy  water.  The  river  is  so  rapid  and  sweeping  in  its  course, 
and  its  bed  is  composed  of  such  masses  of  sand,  that  it  is  continually  shitting  its  sand 
bars.  A  chart  of  the  river  as  it  runs  this  year,  gives  little  ground  for  calculation  in  navi- 
gating it  the  next.  It  has  numerous  islands,  and  generally  near  them  is  the  most  difficult 
to  be  stemmed.  Still  more  than  the  Mississippi  below  its  mouth,  it  tears  up  one  place 
and  deposits  in  another,  and  makes  more  frequent  and  powerful  changes  in  its  channel 
than  anv  other  western  river.         ********  *  » 


Above  tiie  Platte,  the  open  and  prairie  character  of  the  country  begins  to  develop.  The 
prairies  come  quite  into  the  banks  of  ttie  river,  and  stretch  from  it  indefinitely,  in  naked 
grass  plains,  where  the  traveler  may  wander  for  days  without  seeing  either  wood  or  water 
The  '  Council  Bluffs,'  are  an  important  military  station,  about  GOO  miles  up  the  Missouri. 
Beyond  this  point,  commences  a  country  of  great  interest  and  grandeur  in  many  respects, 
and  denominated,  by  way  of  eminence,  the  Upper  Missouri.  The  ccmntry  is  composed  of 
vast  and  almost  boundless  grass  plains,  through  which,  stretch  the  Platte,  the  Yellow 
Stone,  and  the  other  rivers  of  this  ocean  of  grass.  The  savages  of  this  region  have  a 
peculiar  physiognomy  and  mode  of  life.  It  is  a  country  where  commence  new  tribes  of 
plants.  It  is  the  home  of  buifalos,  elk,  white  bears,  antelopes,  and  mountain  sheep. 
Sometimes  the  river  washes  the  bases  of  the  dark  hills  of  a  friable  and  crumbling  soil 
Here  aie  found,  as  Lewis  and  Clarke,  and  other  respectable  travelers  relate,  large  and 
sino-ular  petrifactions,  both  animal  and  vegetable.  On  the  top  of  one  of  tliese  hills,  they 
found  the  petrified  skeleton  of  a  huge  fish,  45  feet  in  length.  The  herds  of  the  gregarious 
animals,  particularly  the  buffalos,  are  innumerable.  Such  is  the  general  character  of  the 
country,  until  we  come  in  contact  with  the  spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains."  (FliiiW 
Geo.  and  Hist,  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.) 

From  the  source  of  the  Missouri  and  tributaries,  to  Sioux  City,  lo.,  the  lands 
alon*'  the  river  are  almost  entirely  void  of  human  habitations.  There  are  some 
Unit'ed  States'  military  posts  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  among  which,  are  Fort 
Benton,  Fort  Berthold,  Fort  McKenzie,  Fort  Union,  Fort  Mandan,  Fort  Clarke, 
Fort  St.  Pierre,  and  a  few  others. 

Sioux  City,  is  at  the  junction  of  Big  Stone  river,  with  the  Missouri,  in 
Woodbury  co.,  lo. 

Tekama,  county  seat  of  Burt  co.,  Nebraska,  about  60  miles  below,  is  jBnely 
situated  on  a  high  bank,  in  a  good  farming  region. 

D  e  Soto,  30  miles  below,  in  Washington  co.,  Nebraska,  is  also  finely  situated 
in  a  rich  country,  well  timbered. 

Fort  Calhoun,  15  miles  below,  in  Washington  co.,  Nebraska. 

Florence,  10  miles  below,  iu  Nebraska. 

Council  Bluff's  City,  10  miles  below,  capital  of  Pottawattomie  co.,  lo., 
is  finely  situated  on  a  high  bluff,  with  a  beautiful  view  of  the  surrounding  country, 
which  is  a  rich  farming  region,  well  timbered.  Council  Bluff's  is  on  one  of  the 
emigrant  routes  for  California  and  Oregon.  It  contains  a  land  office,  2  churches, 
3  schools,  a  number  of  stores,  and  mechanic's  shops.  Population  about  2500. 
*  Omaha  City,  capital  of  Nebraska,  in  Douglass  co.,  opposite  Council  Bluff's 
City,  is  beautifully  situated,  on  a  plain  about  50  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  river. 
It  contains  a  printing  office,  and  a  number  of  good  buildings,  and  is  improving 
rapidly. 

Council  Point,  5  miles  below,  in  Pottawattomie,  co.  To.,  is  the  landing 
point  for  a  Mormon  town,  named  Kanesville,  about  4  miles  in  the  interior. 


THE  MISSOURI    RIVER.  75 

Traders'  Point,  3  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.,  is  a  small  French  settle- 
ment, established  to  facilitate  trade  between  the  various  Indian  traders.  It  con- 
tains about  100  inhabitants. 

Bellevue,  2  miles  below,  in  Nebraska.  It  is  the  residence  of  the  agent 
employed  by  the  United  States,  to  attend  to  the  government  business,  with  the 
tribes  inhabiting  this  territory.  It  has  a  good  lauding,  and  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  high  plain.  The  first  newspaper  published  in  Nebraska  was  commenced 
here  in  1854.  This  point  was  first  visited  by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  1804,  andsoon 
after,  the  American  Fur  Company  established  a  trading  post  here. 

St.  Mary's,  5  miles  below,  in  Mills  co.,  lo. 

California  City  2  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Nebraska  or  Platte  river. 

Platte,  or  Nebraska  River,  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  by  two 
branches,  termed  the  North  and  South  Forks.  After  an  easterly  course  of  nearly 
2000  miles,  it  empties  into  the  Missouri  at  this  point.  It  is  about  a  mile  wide 
at  the  mouth  ;  but  is,  as  its  name  indicates,  exceedingly  shallow,  and  is  not 
navigable,  except  in  iimes  of  the  great  spring  freshets. 

Plattsville,  Mills  co.,  lo.,  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Platte  river. 

Plattsmouth,  capital  of  Cass  co.,  Nebraska,  1  mile  below,  is  beautifully 
located  on  a  high  bank,  in  the  vicinity  of  fine  timber  and  stone  coal. 

Bethlehem,  1  mile  below,  in  Mills  co.,  lo. 

Kenosha,  Cass  co.,  Nebraska,  10  miles  below. 

Nebraska  City,  county  seat  of  Otoe  co.,  Nebraska,  10  miles  below. 

Brownsville,  county  seat  of  Nemehaw  co.,  Nebraska,  thirty  miles  below, 
is  finely  situated  in  the  region  of  stone  coal  and  good  timber. 

Iowa  Point,  40  miles  below,  in  Holt  co..  Mo.,  is  the  landing  point  for  the 
town  of  Oregon,  county  seat  of  Holt  co.,  situated  10  miles  in  the  interior.  Oregon 
contains  a  population  of  about  500. 

Nodeway  City,  30  miles  below,  in  Andrew  co.,  Mo.,  is  a  small  village 
containing  a  few  stores,  and  about  200  inhabitants.  It  is  the  landing  point  for 
Savannah,  a  town  of  about  800  inhabitants,  situated  a  few  miles  off  the  river, 
the  county  scat  of  Andrew  co. 

St.  Joseph,  25  miles  below,  county  scat  of  Buchanan  co..  Mo.,  is  a  thriving 
and  important  town.  It  was  laid  out  in  1843,  and  named  in  honor  of  Mr. 
Joseph  Rubidoux,  who  resided  here  upward  of  40  years.  St.  Joseph  is  the 
largest  town  in  western  Missouri,  and  one  of  the  points  of  departure  for  emi- 
grants to  California  and  Oregon.  It  is  situated  in  an  exceedingly  rich  region 
of  country,  producing  large  quantities  of  hemp,  wheat,  and  tobacco.  It  contains 
7  or  8  churches,  5  steam  flouring  mills,  several  saw  mills,  a  bagging  factory, 
various  manufacturing  establishments,  3  printing  offices,  a  large  number  of  stores 
and  warehouses,  and  a  population  of  between  5000  and  6000.  The  western 
terminus  of  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad  is  here. 

Leachman,  25  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Doniphan,  8  miles  below, in  Kansas. 

Atchinson,  9  miles  below,  in  Kansas. 

Kickapoo  City,  12  miles  below,  in  Kansas,  is  well  situated  for  trade.  It 
has  one  newspaper  office,  and  is  improving  rapidly. 

Weston,  10  miles  below,  in  Platte  co..  Mo.,  is  a  fine  flourishing  place,  and 
is  rapidly  improving.  Many  of  the  emigrants  make  this  a  stopping  place,  for 
laying  in  supplies,  previous  to  starting  out  on  the  plains.  It  contains  several 
churches,  2  printing  offices,  a  large  number  of  stores,  &c.     Pop.  about  3000. 


7^  THE   MISS  OU  HI    RIVER. 

Fort  Leavenworth,  4  miles  below,  in  Kansas,  is  on  a  liigli  bluff.  The 
situatiuii  is  rcniarkahlj  tine,  the  bluff  being  about  150  feet  in  height,  and  com- 
posed principally  of  white  limestone.  There  is  an  excellent  landing  for  boats, 
and  many  other  superior  advantages  at  this  point.  It  is  the  rendezvous  for  all 
United  States'  troops  destined  for  Santa  Fe,  Oregon,  and  the  frontier  stations. 
One  of  the  principal  routes  to  California  couimenccs  at  this  place. 

Little  Platte  River,  rises  in  Clarke  co.,  Ic,  and  pursuing  an  almost 
direct  southward  course  for  a  distance  of  about  200  miles,  empties  into  the 
Missouri,  20  miles  below  Fort  Leavenworth.  This  river  is  exceedingly  shallow, 
and  difficult  to  navigate. 

Parkville,  2  miles  below,  in  Platte  co..  Mo.,  is  a  fine  flourishing  village. 
It  was  named  in  honor  of  one  of  the  early  settlers  of  this  region,  by  the  name  of 
Park.     It  is  an  important  shipping  point  for  produce.     Population  about  GOO. 

Wyandotte  City,  12  miles  below,  in  Kansas,  at  the  junction  of  Kansas 
river  with  the  Missouri,  is  one  of  the  starting  points  for  emigrants. 

Kansas  River. — This  is  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  of  the  Missouri.  It 
rises  in  the  Ilocky  Mountains,  and  flows  eastward  through  the  entire  breadth  of  the 
Indian  territory,  and  empties  into  the  Missouri,  12  miles  below  Parkville.  Its 
entire  length  is  about  1200  miles,  for  900  of  which,  it  might  be  navigated.  It 
is  340  vards  wide  at  the  mouth,  and  discharges  an  immense  amount  of  water ; 
many  of  its  tributaries  being  nearly  as  large  as  itself.  Solomon's  fork,  is  700 
miles  long ;   Smoky  Hill  fork,  800  miles. 

Kansas  near  the  mouth  of  Kansas  river,  in  Jackson  co..  Mo.,  is  pleasantly 
situated,  standing  on  a  high  bank  of  the  river,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  for  many  miles.  It  is  thought  by  many,  to  possess  the 
finest  situation  of  any  town  on  the  river.  The  business  is  very  exten.sive,  there 
being  an  almost  constant  stream  of  emigrants  passing  through  it.  Pop.  about  1200. 

Randolph,  5  miles  below,  in  Clay  co..  Mo.,  is  a  handsome  village,  finely 
situated  on  a  commanding  eminence.  It  contains  2  churches,  several  stores,  and 
a  population  of  300. 

Wayne  City,  7  miles  below,  is  the  principal  landing  point  for  goods  and 
merchandise  destined  for  Independence,  and  is  connected  with  it  by  the  Indepen- 
dence Railroad. 

The  Independence  Railroad  Depot  is  about  one  mile  from  "Wayne  city. 
There  is  generally  quite  an  air  of  business  about  this  place,  from  constant  arrival 
of  goods  and  emigrants  on  their  way  to  Independence.     The  road  is  4  miles  long. 

Independence,  county  seat  of  Jackson  co..  Mo.,  about  4  miles  back  of 
"Wayne  city,  is  a  place  of  great  importance  and  growing  rapidly.  The  country 
around  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  The  business  done 
is  very  large.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  county  buildings,  3  hotels,  7 
churches,  a  large  number  of  wholesale  and  retail  stores,  and  a  population  of  about 
3000.  There  is  a  large  trade  carried  on  between  this  place  and  Santa  Fe.  The 
goods  are  transported  across  the  country  in  wagons,  built  very  large  and  strong, 
and  usualiv  drawn  by  oxen,  from  16  to  20  of  which  are  attached  to  each  wagon. 
It  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  St.  Louis  and  Pacific  Railroad. 

Independence  derives  much  of  its  importance  from  being  the  point  where  many 
of  the  emigrants  for  California  and  Oregon,  get  their  last  supplies. 

Liberty  Landing,  5  miles  below  Wayne  City,  in  Clay  co.,  is  a  landing 
point  for  the  town  of  Liberty,  4  miles  from  the  river. 

Livingston,  Jackson  co.,  5  miles  below,  is  a  small  village,  formerly  a 
landing  place  for  Independence. 

Owen's  Landing,  1  mile  below,  in  same  co. 

Richfield,  Clay  co.,  10  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 


THE  MISSOURI    RIVER.  77 

Sibley,  10  miles  below,  is  a  thriving  village,  in  Jackson  cc.  It  occupies  the 
former  site  of  Fort  Osage.  It  contains  2  churches,  a  number  of  stores,  and 
about  500  inhabitants. 

Napoleon  ,  6  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Camden,  G  miles  below,  in  Ray  co.,  is  a  flourishing  town.     Population  500. 

Wellington,  7  miles  below,  in  Lafayette  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Lexington,  county  seat  of  Lafayette  co.,  8  miles  belnw.  It  is  a  fine, 
thriving  town,  having  the  highest  location  of  any  town  on  the  river,  being  about 
300  feet  above  high  water  mark.  The  first  house  built  here  was  in  the  year  1839  ; 
and  it  now  contains  a  court-house,  jail,  and  county  oSices,  7  churches,  a  seminary, 
a  land  ofhcc,  2  printing  offices,  and  a  large  number  of  stores.  Population  about 
4500.     Extensive  veins  of  stone  coal  are  found  near  Lexington. 

Crooked  River  ,  enters  the  Missouri  from  Hay  co.,  6  miles  below  Lexington. 

Walconda,  15  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Crooked  river,  in  Carroll  co. 

Waverly,  3  miles  below,  in  Lafayette  co.,  is  a  flourishing  village.  Popu- 
lation about  GOO. 

Hill's  Landing,  Carroll  co.,  10  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Miami,  20  miles  below,  in  Saline  co. 

De  Witt,  Carroll  co.,  6  miles  below. 

Grand  Eiver,  rises  in  Madison  co.,  lo.,  and  flows  in  a  southwest  direction 
for  a  distance  of  240  miles,  and  enters  the  Missouri  5  miles  below  De  Witt, 
forminc  the  bouudarv  line  between  Carroll  and  Charitou  counties.  It  is  uavi- 
gated  by  boats  about  100  miles. 

Brunswick,  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Grand  river,  in  Chariton  co.,  is 
an  enterprising  town.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  level  prairie,  and  contains 
several  churches,  a  large  number  of  stores,  and  business  establishments.  Popu- 
lation about  2500. 

Old  Jefferson,  25  miles  below,  in  Saline  co.,  is  a  small  village.  There 
was  formerly  a  place  by  this  name,  a  short  distance  down  the  river,  opposite 
Glasgow ;  but  the  remorseless  river  swept  it  off",  and  the  inhabitants  were  com- 
pelled to  seek  for  other  lodgings. 

Cambridge,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Chariton  River,  rises  in  Lucas  co.,  lo.,  and  after  a  course  of  150  miles, 
in  a  southerly  direction,  enters  the  Jlissouri  5  miles  below  Cambridge.  It  is  not 
navigable  for  more  than  about  30  miles. 

Glasgow,  3  miles  below,  in  Howard  co.,  is  a  thriving  town.  It  has  an  active 
trade,  and  is  a  shipping  point  of  produce,  &c.,  for  the  surrounding  country.  It 
has  two  printing  offices,  a  female  seminary,  several  churches,  and  a  large  number 
of  business  houses.     Population  about  1500. 

Bluffport,  5  miles  below,  in  Howard  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Arrow  Rock,  10  miles  below,  in  Saline  co.,  is  finely  situated  about  150 
feet  above  the  river.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  Indians  used 
pieces  of  the  rock  found  here,  for  making  arrow  heads.     Population  about  400. 

La  Mine  River,  ri«es  in  Lafayette  and  Johnson  counties,  and  empties  into 
the  Missouri  lU  miles  below  Arrow  Rock.  It  is  navigable  for  about  30  miles. 
The  water  of  this  river  is  remarkably  clear. 

Booneville,  6  miles  below  the  mouth  of  La  Mine  river,  is  the  county  seat 
of  Cooper  CO.  It  is  situated  on  a  bluff",  elevated  about  100  feet  above  high 
water  mark,  and  received  its  name  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  Colonel  Daniel 
Boone.  It  contains  3  or  4  printing  offices,  2  academies,  several  churches,  a 
court-house,  and  a  large  number  of  stores  and  business  houses.     Booneville  is  in 


78  THE  MISSOURI  RIVER. 

the  midst  of  a  rich  farming  country.  Much  attention  is  paid  to  the  cultivation 
of  the  grape.  Bituminous  coal,  iron,  lead,  &c.,  are  found  in  the  vicinity.  Pop- 
ulation about  2500. 

Old  Franklin,  Howard  co.,  opposite  Booneville. 

Rocheport,  Boone  co.,  12  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  Moniteau  creek. 
Stone  coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity.     Population  about  500. 
Mt.  Vernon,  Moniteau  co.,  8  miles  below. 

Providence,  G  miles  below,  in  Boone  co.,  is  the  landing  place  for  Columbia, 
situated  a  lew  miles  in  the  interior. 

Nashville,  2  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  a  small  village. 

Moniteau,  3  miles  below,  in  county  of  same  name. 

Marion,  Cole  co.,  6  miles  below.     Population  about  500. 

Stonesport,  10  miles  below,  in  Boone  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Jefferson  City,  6  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Missouri, 
and  couuty  seat  of  Cole  co.  The  situation  is  high,  and  commands  a  fine  view. 
It  contains  a  State  house,  the  Governor's  house,  State  penitentiary,  court-house, 
3  printing  offices,  a  number  of  churches,  and  a  large  number  of  stores  and 
commission  houses.  The  St.  Louis  &  Pacific  Railroad  passes  through  JeflFerson 
City.     Population  about  3500. 

Hibernia,  opposite  Jefi'erson  City,  in   Callaway  Co.,  is  a  small  village. 
Formosa,  9  miles  below,  in  Cole  co.,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  river, 

Osage  River  rises  in  the  Indian  territory,  and  after  a  meandering  course 
of  about  500  miles,  empties  into  the  Missouri  at  this  point.  It  is  400  yards 
wide  at  the  mouth,  and  is  navigable  for  steamboats  about  200  miles.  The  land 
bordering  on  this  river  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  yields  abundant  crops  of  all 
the  products  of  the  West. 

Cote  Sans  Dessein,  5  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  river,  in 
Callaway  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Smith's  Landing,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Portland,  16  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Gasconade  River  rises  in  Wright  co..  Mo.,  and  taking  its  course 
in  a  northerly  direction  for  a  distance  of  200  miles,  enters  the  Missouri  10  miles 
below  Portland.  It  is  not  navigable  to  any  extent,  but  affords  a  vast  amount  of 
water-power  to  the  numerous  mill-seats  along  its  banks. 

The  St.  Louis  &,  Pacific  Railroad  crosses  this  river  near  its  mouth,  which  was  the 
scene  of  a  terrible  and  heart  rending  calamity,  at  the  celebration  of  the  opening  of  the  road 
to  Jefferson  City,  in  November,  1855,  by  which  about  30  of  the  most  prominent  citizens 
of  St.  Louis  lost  their  lives,  and  hundreds  of  otliers  were  seriously  maimed.  Just  as  tlie 
locomotive  liad  crossed  the  first  span,  the  bridge  gave  way,  and"  9  of  the  13  cars  in  the 
train,  crowded  to  overtlowing  witli  people,  were,  with  the  locomotive,  precipitated  to  the 
bed  of  the  river,  with  an  awful  crash,  into  a  mass  of  ruins. 

Hermann,  6  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Gasconade  co.  It  is  a  thriving 
place,  population  about  1100.  The  St.  Louis  &  Pacific  Railroad  passes 
through  Hermann. 

Bridgeport,  1  mile  below,  in  Warren  co. 
'f    Pinckney ,  in  same  county,  12  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 
Griswold,  nearly  opposite  Pinckney,  in  Franklin'-co. 
Washington,  IG  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  flourishing  town. 
Bassora,  1  mile  below,  in  same  co. 

South  Point,  2  miles  below,  also  in    same  co.     The  St.   Louis  &  Pacific 
Railroad  pas.ses  through  Griswold,  Washington,  Bassora,  and  South  Point. 
Portmuna,  G  miles  below,  in  St.  Charles  co. 


KA  SKA  SKI  A  RIVER— WHITE    RIVER.  79 

Mt.  Pleasant,  in  same  co.,  1  mile  below  Portmuna. 

St.  Albans,  Franklin  co.,  8  miles  below. 

Missouriton,  1  mile  below,  in  St.  Charles  co. 

Johnson's   Ferry,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Port  Royal,  opposite  Johnson's  Ferry,  in  Franklin  co. 

Pittman's  Ferry,  5  miles  below,  in  St.  Charles  co. 

St.  Charles,  IS  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  St.  Charles  co.,  and  a 
flourishiug  place.  It  is  handsomely  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  commands 
delif^htfuf  views.  There  are  fine  quarries  of  limestone,  and  sandstone  in  the 
vicinity;  also  mines  of  stone  coal.  The  river  at  this  point  is  over  a  mile  wide. 
St.  Charles  contains  a  college,  7  or  8  churches,  a  court-house,  and  a  number  ot 
stores.     Population  about  oOOO. 

Jamestown,  16  miles  below,  in  St.  Lous  co. 

Bellefontaine,  in  same  co.,  2  miles  below. 

Columbus,  4  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  junction  with 
the  Mississippi. 

THE  KASKASKIA   RIVER 

Rises  near  the  center  of  Illinois,  in  Champaigne  co.,  and  empties  into  the  Mississippi, 76 
miles  below  St.  Louis.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  about  150  miles,  its  whole  length  is 
some  300  miles. 

Shelbyville,  111.,  on  the  Kaskaskia  river,  is  the  eounty  seat  of  Shelby  co. 
It  contains  a  court-house,  several  churches,  and  a  number  of  stores.     The  Alton 
-and  Terre  Haute  Railroad  passes  through  Shelbyville. 

Vandalia,  about  50  miles  below,  (following  the  river  course,)  is  the  county 
seat  of  Fayette  co.,  and  was  the  former  capital  of  the  State.  It  is  on  the  line  of 
the  Illinois  Central  Railroad.     Population  about  1200. 

Keysport,  Clinton  co.,  27  miles  below,  (by  the  river,)  is  a  small  village. 

Carlyle,  capital  of  Clinton  co.,  12  miles  below,  contains  several  mills,  the 
county  buildings,  and  a  number  of  stores.  The  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad 
passes  through  the  place. 

Covington,  14  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Fayetteville,  St.  Clair  co.,  26  miles  below,  is  a  small  place. 

Athens,  9  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Lively,  in  same  co.,  2  miles  below. 

Tamarawa,  3  miles  below,  in  Monroe  co. 

Evansville,  Randolph  co.,  20  miles  below. 

Kaskaskia,  county  seat  of  Randolph  co.,  8  miles  below,  was  founded  shortly 
after  the  visit  of  La  Salle  to  the  Mississippi,  in  1683,  by  Father  Gravier,  a  Catholic 
missionary  among  the  Illinois,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  Illinois  country,  so 
long  as  the  French  continued  in  possession  of  it.  In  1763,  it  was  ceded  by 
France  to  Great  Britain.  In  1778,  the  fort,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  waa 
taken  by  Col.  George  Rogers  Clark.  Kaskaskia  contains  a  court-house,  a  land 
office,  and  a  population  of  about  1000,  mostly  of  French  descent.  The  Kaskaskia 
river  enters  the  Mississippi  7  miles  beJow  the  town. 

WHITE   RIVER 

Rises  in  the  Ozark  Mountains,  and  runs  first  north  easterly  into  Mo.,  and  then  into 
Ark.,  in  a  southwardly  direction  to  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi,  16  miles  above  the 
Arkansas  river.  Black  river  is  its  largest  tributary.  Its  whole  leiigtli  is  between  750  and 
800  miles.  It  is  navigable  for  about  400  miles.  The  country  through  which  it  passes,  is 
generally  fertile,  producing  fine  crops  of  cotton  and  corn,  and  some  portions  rich  in  mine- 
rals.    I'ine   forests  abound  on  its  upper   waters,  and  cypress  swamps,  toward  the  mouth. 

Worth,  is  a  small  village  in  Marion  co..  Ark.,  on  White  river,  near  the 
boundary  line  of  Mo. 


80  THE  ARKANSAS  RIVER. 

Johnson,  55  miles  below,  (by  the  river  course,)  in  same  co. 

Liberty,  28  miles  below,  in  Izard  co. 

Athens,  in  the  same  co.,  25  miles  below. 

Mt.  Olive,  6  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Izard  co. 

Sylamore,  in  same  co.,  6  miles  below. 

Batesville,45  miles  below,  capital  of  Independence  co.,  and  a  thriving 
town.  Small  steamers  can  reach  this  place  at  nearly  all  seasons.  It  contains 
several  churches,  the  usual  county  buildings,  and  2  printing  offices.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  fertile,  with  fine  water-power.     Population  about  1800. 

Jacksonport,  Jackson  co.,  35  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  Black  river, 
■which  is  navigable  for  small  steamers,  some  distance. 

Elizabeth,  10  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Jackson  co.  This  is  a 
thriving  place,  and  exports  large  quantities  of  timber. 

Augusta,  05  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  flourishing  village,  finely 
situatfcdin  a  rich  region  of  country. 

Des  Arc,  Prairie  co.,  35  miles  below,  in  a  fertile  cotton,  and  sugar  growing 
country  ;  oak,  cedar,  and  cypress  timber,  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity.     Pop.  500. 

Clarendon,  38  miles  below,  in  Monroe  co. 

Crockett's  Bluff,  in  Arkansas  co.,  33  miles  below. 

Cass  Coe,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  50  miles  from  the  Mississippi  river, 
by  the  meanders  of  the  stream. 

THE   ARKANSAS    RIVER 

Rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the  boundary  between  the  Indian  Territory  and 
Utah,  and  after  pursuing  an  easterly  course  of  over  2000  miles,  empties  into  the  Mississippi 
in  latitude  33°  54'  north.  It  pours  abroad  and  deep  stream  from  the  mountains  upon  the 
arid  and  sandy  plains  below.  The  sand  and  the  dry  atmosphere  absorb  the  water  to  such 
a  degree,  that  it  may  often  be  forded  many  hundred  miles  below  the  rnount.iins.  Some  of 
its  tributaries  are  so  impregnated  with  salt,  as  to  render  even  the  waters  of  the  main  stream 
unpotable.  To  the  distance  of  about  400  miles  from  its  mouth,  it  has  many  lakes  and 
bayous.  In  high  water,  it  is  navigable  for  steamboats  as  far  \\t^  as  Fort  Gibson,  at  the 
mouth  of  Grand  river,  by  water,  750  miles.  Next  to  the  Missouri,  this  is  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  though  not  the  most  important.  Below  Van  Buren,  the  land 
along  the  river  is  productive,  and  well  timbered.  The  territory  drained  by  this  river  and 
its  tributaries  is  estimated  to  contain  178,000  square  miles.  Between  Fort  Smith  and 
Little  Rock,  bituminous  coal  is  frequently  found  along  its  banks. 

Fort  Gibson,  a  military  station,  in  the  Indian  territory,  on  the  Neasho  river, 
just  above  its  entrance  into  the  Arkansas.  The  Illinois  and  Gxnadian  rivers 
empty  into  the  Arkansas,  some  distance  below  Fort  Gibson. 

Fort  Coffee,  100  miles  below,  and  west  of  the  boundary  of  Arkansas. 

Fort  Smith,  20  miles  below,  on  the  western  boundary  of  the  State,  in  Se- 
bastian CO.,  is  a  thriving  town.  It  carriei5  on  an  extensive  trade  with  the 
Indians.  The  U.  S.  Government  has  a  military  post  here.  It  contains  the 
government  buildings,  a  printing  office,  a  church,  and  a  population  of  about  1400. 

Van  Buren,  capital  of  Crawford  co.,  10  miles  below,  is  a  thriving  place, 
pleasantly  situated.  It  has  a  large  trade  with  the  surrounding  country.  The 
place  contains  a  cotton  factory,  a  steam  flouring  mill,  4  or  5  handsome  churches, 
2  printing  offices,  and  a  population  of  about  2000. 

Ozark ,  county  scat  of  Franklin  co.,  60  miles  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Roseville,  12  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Patterson's  Bluff,  a  small  place,  20  miles  below,  in  Johnson  co. 

Spadra  Bluff,  in  same  co.,  15  miles  below. 

Pittsburg,  5  miles  below,  in  same  co. 


YAZO  O  RIVER— RED  RIVER.  81 

St.  Martin's,  Pope  co.,  10  miles  below- 

Scotia,  2  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Norristown,  in  same  co.,  20  miles  below. 

Dardenelle,  opposite,  in  same  co. 

Lewisburs^,  Conway  co.,  40  miles  below. 

Greene  Grove,  18  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Little  Rock,  40  miles  below,  capital  of  the  State  of  Arkansas,  and  county 
scat  of  Pulaski  co.,  is  situated  on  a  high  rocky  bluff,  the  first  above  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  commanding  a  beautiful  and  extensive  view  of  the  adjacent  country. 
The  city  contains  the  State  House,  a  fine  brick  building,  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  the 
State  penitentiary,  7  or  8  churches,  2  printing  offices,  and  a  population  of  about 
3000.  Slate,  and  a  species  of  granite  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  also  good  clay  for 
making  brick. 

Straw  Hat,  70  miles  below,  in  Jefferson  co. 

Pine  Bluff,  20  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Jefferson  co.,  is  a  flourishing 
place,  in  a  fertile  cotton  raising  region.  Large  quantities  of  cotton  are  annuallj 
shipped  from  this  point.     Population  about  600. 

Hob  Roy,  in  same  co.,  12  miles  below. 

New  Gascony ,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Richland,  8  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Swan  Lake,  Arkansas  co.,  5  miles  below. 

Niccattoo,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

South  Bend,  30  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Arkansas  Post,  25  miles  below,  capital  of  Arkansas,  co.,  is  the  oldest  town 
in  the  State.  If  was  founded  by  the  French  in  1685.  It  is  located  on  a  high 
bluff;  but,  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  the  land  is  low  and  frequently  inundated.  It 
contains  a  court-house,  jail,  and  printing  office.     Population  about  500. 

Red  Fork,  Desha  co.,  10  miles  below. 

"Wellington,  20  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

The  Arkansas  river  enters  the  Mississippi,  30  miles  below  Wellington. 

THE  YAZOO  RIVER 

Rises  near  the  central  part  of  the  State  of  Mississippi.  It  is  formed  by  the  nnion  of  tho 
Tallahatchee  and  Yallahusha,  which  are  navigable  rivers.  After  receiving  the  Sun-flower 
which  runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Mississippi,  and  is  navigable  for  80  miles,  it  empties 
into  the  Mississippi,  300  miles  from  its  source.  Tlie  country  bordering  on  this  river  is 
very  rich,  and  produces  cotton  in  great  abundance.  From  Greenwood,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Tallahatchec,  several  large  steamboats  run  regularly  to  New  Orleans,  during  the 
cotton  season.  The  number  of  bales  of  cotton  that  annually  float  down  this  river,  is 
estimated  at  150,000.     It  is  a  sluggish  stream,  and  navigable  throughout  its  whole  length- 

Tazoo  City,  county  .seat  of  Yazoo  co.,  Miss.,  some  160  miles  below  Green- 
wood, is  a  flourishing  town,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  cotton  growing  country,  and 
has  considerable  trade.  A  large  amount  of  cotton  is  forwarded  from  this  point  to 
New  Orleans.  It  has  2  or  3  printing  offices,  a  number  of  churches,  and  a  pop- 
ulation of  about  2000. 

Liverpool,  and  Satartia,  below,  in  same  co. 

Cardiff,  about  15  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  in  Warren  co.,  Miss. 

RED  RIVER 

Rises  in  a  chain  of  hills  near  Santa  Fe,  in  New  Mexico,  called  tho  Caous  mountains, 
and  after  pursuing  an  easterly  course  of  some  1500  miles,  empties  into  the  Mississippi 
215  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  776  below  the  mouth  of  the  Oliio.  It  receives,  in  its 
course,  the  waters  of  a  number  of  rivers,  the  largest  of  which,  are  the  Blue  river  and  Falsa 
Washita,  or  Rio  Negro.     After  leaving  the  mountains,  it  flows  through  extensive  prairies 

6 


82  RED  RIVER. 

of  rich,  red  soil,  which    impart  their  color  to  the  -water.     From  this  circumstance  it   re- 
ceived the  name  of  Red  river.     The  margin  of  the  river  is  covered,  in  many  places,  with 
grass  and  fine  vines,  which  bear  delicious  grapes.     The  bottoms  are  from  one  to  ten  miles 
wide,  and  are  well  timbered  with  willow,  locust,    cotton-wood,  pawpaw  and  buckeye. 
On  the  uplands,  elm,  ash,  hickory,  mulberry,  and  black-walnut  grow  in  great  abundance. 
The  width  of  its  channel,  for  400  miles   from  its    mouth,  docs  not   correspond  with    its 
length,  or  the  immense  mass  of  waters  which   it  collects  in  its  course  from   the  Rocky 
mountains.     In  high  waters,  it  is  often  divided  into  two  or  tliree  channels,  and  spreads 
into  a  line  of  bayous  and  lakes,  which  lake  up  its  superabundant  waters,  which  are  a  con- 
siderable time  in  filling,  and  prevent  the  river  from  displaying  its  breadth  and  amount  of 
waters,  as  it  does  in  the  high-lands,  500   miles   above.     About  100  miles  above   Natchi- 
toches,'commences  what  is  called  the    Ka/Z,  which    is   nothing    more   than  an  immense 
swampy  alluvial  of  the  river,  to  the  width  of  20  or  30  miles.     The  river  here,  spreading 
into  a  vast  number  of  channels,  frequentlv  shallow,  of  course,  has  been  for  ages,  clogging 
up  with  a  compact  mass  of  timber  and  fallen  trees,  wafted  from  the  regions  above.  *  «  « 
The  river  is  blocked  up  with  this  immense  mass  of  timber,  a  distance,  by  its   meanders 
of  70  miles.     There  are  places  where  the  water  can  be  seen  in  motion  under  the  logs.     In 
other  places,  the  whole  width  of  the  river  may  be  crossed  on  horse-back.     Weeds,  flower- 
in»  shrubs,  and   small  willows,  have   taken  root  upon  the  surface   of  this  timber,  and 
flourish  above  the  waters.     It  is  an  impediment  of  incalculable  injury  to  the  navigation  of 
this  noble  river,  and  the  immense  extent  of  country  above  it.     There  is  probably  no  part 
of  the  United  States,  where  the  unoccupied  lands  have  higher  claims  from  soil,  climate, 
intermixture  of  prairies  and  timbered  lauds,  position,  andevery  inducement  to  population, 
than  the  country  above  the  Raft ;  where  the  river  becomes  broad,  deep,  and  navigable  for 
steamboats,  in  moderate  stages  of  water,  for  several  hundred  miles."— (F/infs  Geo.  and  His.) 
The  bottom  land  along  the   river  is  very  fertile,  producing   corn,  cotton,  tobacco,  and 
suo-ar  cane  in  great  abundance.     If  the  navigation  of  this  river   could  be   permanently 
opened,  the  fertile  lands  that  now  lie  in  waste  would  soon  be  under  cultivation  ;  and  boats, 
laden  with  the  rich  products  common  to  the  "West  and  Southwest,  would  glide  smoothly 
alon"-  its  reddened  waters,  to  the  great  commercial  depot  of  the  South.     The  United  States 
Government  cut  a  channel  through  the  raft,  at  an  expense  of  $300,000,  but  another   has 
since  formed.     Along  the  river,  the  trees  grow  very  tall  and  thick  ;  in  some  places  their 
branches  nearly  meet  across  the  stream. 

Ianesport,is  situated  in  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  State  of  Arkansas, 
Sevier  co.,  on  Red  River,  which  is  here,  and  for  some  distance  above  and  below, 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  State  of  Texas. 

Fulton,  about  100  miles  below,  by  the  meanders  of  the  river,  in  Hempstead 
CO.,  Ark.,  is  an  important  point, 

Conway,  about  100  miles  below,  in  Lafayette  co..  Ark. 

Shreveport,  about  90  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Caddo  parish.  La.  It 
is  finely  located  for  business,  being  surrounded  by  an  exceedingly  fertile  planting 
region,  and  about  30  miles  below  the  great  raft.  Some  50,000  bales  of  cotton, 
and  a  very  large  number  of  cattle,  from  Texas,  are  annually  shipped  from  this 
point.  The  town  contains  a  large  number  of  stores,  several  churches,  and  steam 
mills,  a  printing  office,  and  a  population  of  about  3000. 

Nachitoch.es,  about  100  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Nachitoches  parish, 
La.  It  was  first  settled  by  the  French,  under  a  grant  to  St.  Dennis,  who,  in 
1713,  estabhshed  a  trading  post  here.  In  1732,  it  was  attacked  by  the  Natchez 
Indians,  who  had  been  driven  from  their  own  country,  after  the  great  massacre  of 
the  28th  of  November,  1729.  After  a  hard  fought  battle,  which  lasted  several 
hours,  the  Indians  were  repulsed,  leaving  ninety-two  of  their  bravest  warriors  on 
the  field.  With  this  battle,  ended  the  existence  of  the  Nachez  as  a  distinct  nation. 
Those  who  were  taken  prisoners  were  conveyed  to  the  West  Indies.  Nachitoches 
contains  a  printing  office,  a  U.  S.  land  office,  and  several  churches,  and  has  an 
active  business.     Population  about  1500. 

'<  Two  or  three  leagues  west  of  Nachitoches,  is  the  ancient  Spanish  town  of 
AD  AYES.  We  can  see  no  where  in  the  United  States  so  fair  a  sample  of  an 
ancient  Spanish  town,  as  this.  The  houses  are  of  the  construction  of  a  hundred 
years  ago.     A  little  old  church,  with  three  or  four  bells,  some  of  them  cracked, 


84  MONONGAHELA    RIVER. 

and  some  coarse  paintings,  give  the  church  an  air  in  keeping  with  the  town.     The 
inhabitants  are  all  Spanish." 

Alexandria,  80  miles  below  Nachitoches,  and  150  from  the  entrance  of  Red 
river  into  the  Mississippi,  is  the  capital  of  Rapides  parish,  La.  The  location  of  the 
town  is  very  beautiful.  The  surrounding  country  is  quite  level,  producing  cotton 
in  great  abundance.     Population  about  800. 


THE   MONONGAHELA    RIVER 

Rises  in  Randolph  co.,Va.,  and  after  a  northern  course  of  .300  mile?,  unites  with  the 
Alleghany  at  Pittsburg.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  as  far  as  Brownsville,  40  miles 
above  Pittsburg ;  and  for  keelboats,  near  200  miles  from  its  mouth.  Its  principal 
branches  are  the  Cheat  and  Youghiogheny  rivers.  Large  quautitiesof  excellent  coal,  are 
annually  brought  down  this  river.  The  navigation  of  this  river  has  been  greaily  im- 
proved, and  made  permanent,  by  the  erection  of  8  or  10  substantial  locks,  between  Browns- 
ville and  Pittsburg. 

Clarksburg,  county  seat  of  Harrison  co.,  Va.,  is  situated  on  the  west  fork 
of  the  Monongahela,  70  miles  from  the  Ohio  river.  There  are  excellent  coal 
mines  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place.  Iron  and  salt  are  also  found  to  some  extent.  It 
is  a  flourishing  place,  and  contains  several  large  mercantile  houses,  4  churches, 
2  academies,  and  2  printing  offices.  The  North- Western  Railroad,  (a  branch  of 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.  R.,)  passes  through  the  town..     Pop.  about  1500. 

Fairmount,  capital  of  Marion  co.,  Va.,  is  situated  on  the  Monongahela,  22 
miles  north  of  Clarksburg.  The  surrounding  country  is  hilly,  and  the  soil  pro- 
ductive. The  forests  are  filled  with  excellent  timber,  and  the  earth  is  well  stored 
with  iron  and  coal,  which  are  largely  exported.  Population  about  1300.  A 
splendid  wire  suspension  bridge  connects  the  town  with  Palatine,  on  which,  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad  crosses. 

Palatine,  Marion  county,  opposite  Fairmount.  It  is  a  thriving  village, 
containing  10  stores,  several  mills,  &c.     Population  600. 

Morgantown,  county  seat  of  Monongalia  co.,  is  a  flourishing  and  wealthy 
village,  situated  on  the  Monongahela,  about  60  miles  south  of  Pittsburg.  The 
town  was  laid  out  in  1785.  It  contains  a  number  of  stores  and  mills,  3  printing 
offices,  1  academy,  and  4  churches,  &c.  The  surrounding  country  is  very  fertile, 
and  abounds  in  coal  and  iron.     Population  about  1000. 

New  Geneva,  Fayette  co.,  Pa.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Monongahela,  at  the  mouth  of  Georo;e's  creek.  It  contains  about  100  dwel- 
lings,  a  large  steam  flour  mill,  and  a  glass  factory. 

Brownsville  Fayette  co.,  Pa.,  at  the  intersection  of  the  National  Road,  and 
the  Monongahela  river.  It  occupies  an  important  point  as  a  place  of  business,  enjoy- 
ing the  advantages  of  the  National  Road,  and  the  improved  navigation  of  the  river. 

The  inexhaustible  beds  of  coal  in  the  vicinity,  must  eventually  make  it  a  great 
manufacturing  place.  The  town  contains  a  bank,  7  churches,  several  foundries, 
and  machine  shops,  a  number  of  mills,  glass,  and  other  fiictories,  of  various 
articles.  There  is  a  splendid  bridge  over  the  Monongahela,  built  in  1832,  630 
feet  long,  and  cost  $50,000.  Brownsville  was  incorporated  in  1815,  and  now 
contains  a  population  of  about  5000. 

Monongahela  City,  Washington  co.,  Pa.,  on  the  Monongahela,  at  the 
mouth  of  Pigeon  creek.  Iron,  coal,  and  salt,  abound  in  the  surrounding  country. 
This  town  is  noted  as  being  the  place  where  the  insurgents  held  a  great  meeting 
in  1794,  during  the  Whisky  Insurrection.  Since  the  year  1830,  it  has  increased 
rapidly.  It  contains  2  glass  factories,  3  saw  mills,  2  carding  machines,  and  6 
churches.     Population  about  1800. 

Elizabeth,  Alleghany  co.,  Pa.,  is  a  beautifully  located  manufacturing 
town,  on  the  Monongahela,  16  miles  above  Pittsburg.     The  town  was  laid  out  iu 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


tTilUburf 


86         *  THE  ALLEGHANY  RIVER. 

1787.  The  completion  of  the  Monongahela  slack  water  navigation,  has  greatly  in- 
creased the  commercial  advantages  of  this  place.  The  town  contains  4  churches,  3 
ehip  yards,  several  saw  mills,  and  glass,  woolen,  and  other  manufactories.   Pop.  2800. 

Braddock's  Field,  is  in  Alleghany  county,  on  the  banks  of  the  Mononga- 
hela, 10  miles  above  Pittsburg.  This  field  will  long  be  remembered  and  visited, 
as  it  is  the  spot  where  Washiagton  first  displayed  those  high  qualities  of  a  man, 
and  a  general,  which,  in  after  life,  entitled  him  to  the  respect  of  his  country. 

Birmingliam,  is  a  large  manufacturing  town,  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Monongahela,  1  mile  from  the  center  of  Pittsburg.  It  has  3  churches,  1  market 
house,  and  several  large  glass  factories,  and  iron  foundries.  A  very  large  capital 
is  employed  here,  in  the  various  manufactories.     Population,  4000. 

THE    ALLEGHANY   EIVER 

Rises  in  the  northern  part  of  Pennsylvania,  and  flows  in  a  north-westerly 
direction  through  the  southern  part  of  New  York,  thence  returning  to  Pennsylvania  ;  and 
after  pursuing  a  general  south-west  direction  of  400  miles,  unites  with  the  Monongahela 
at  Pittsburg.  The  waters  of  this  river  are  pure  and  clear,  while  those  of  the  Monongahela, 
are  colored" by  the  soil  through  which  it  flows.  Vast  quantities  of  lumber  are  sawed 
along  this  river,  and  floated  in  rafts  to  Pittsburg  and  towns  below.  It  is  navigable  for 
keel  boats,  about  250  miles.  Tlie  country  between  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela 
rivers,  is  the  richest  coal  region  in  the  Union. 

Olean,  Cattaraugus  co.,  N.  Y.,  on  the  Alleghany  river,  at  the  junction  of 
Olean  creek.  This  is  a  flourishing  village.  The  Genessee  Valley  Canal,  which 
connects  it  with  Rochester,  terminates  here.  The  line  of  the  Erie  Railroad,  which 
connects  New  York  and  Dunkirk,  on  Lake  Erie,  passes  through  the  place.  The 
width  of  the  Alleghany,  is  20  rods,  and  its  channel  free  from  obstructions.  It 
is  estimated  that  more  than  200,000,000  feet  of  lumber,  of  excellent  quality,  is 
annually  sent  to  various  places  along  the  river.     Population  about  1000. 

Warren,  county  seat  of  Warren  co..  Pa.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Alleg- 
hany river,  and  on  the  Sunbury  and  Erie  Railroad,  near  the  mouth  of  Conewango 
creek.  During  the  spring,  the  town  is  alive  with  the  bustle  and  activity  of 
lumber  merchants,  preparing  to  depart  for  below,  with  their  long  train  of  rafts. 
Population  about  1200. 

Franklin,  county  seat  of  Venango  co.,  Pa.,  on  the  Alleghany,  near  the 
mouth  of  French  creek.  It  was  laid  out  in  1795,  and  contains  the  usual  county 
buildings,  and  6  churches.  There  are  several  large  mills  and  furnaces  in  the 
vicinity,  from  which,  the  town  derives  an  extensive  trade.  During  high  water, 
the  Alleghany  is  navigable  from  Pittsburg  to  this  place,  a  distance  of  124  miles. 
The  dams  on  French  creek  afford  immense  water-power  for  mills.  There  is  a 
splendid  bridge  across  the  river  here.     Population  about  1200. 

Kittanning,  seat  of  justice  of  Armstrong  co.,  Pa.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Alleghany,  near  the  center  of  the  county,  was  formerly  the  site  of  an  old  Indian 
town  of  the  same  name.  It  was  laid  out  in  1804.  It  contains  the  county  buildings, 
an  academy,  a  female  seminary,  and  several  churches.     Population  2100. 

Free  port,  Armstrong  co.,  Pa ,  is  a  flourishing  town  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river,  and  Pennsylvania  Canal.  Many  salt  wells  are  now  in  successful 
operation.  Freeport  contains  a  number  of  woolen  factories  and  mills.  Pop.  1200. 

Sharpsburg,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Alleghany, 
5  miles  above  Pittsburg.  It  is  a  flourishing  village.  It  has  several  large  ship 
yards,  from  which  a  number  of  steam  and  keel  boats  are  annually  launched. 
Population,  about  2000. 

Lawrenceville,  named  in  honor  of  Captain  Lawrence,  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Alleghany,  2  J  miles  above  Pittsburg. 
In  the  center  of  the  town,  there  is  an  U.  S.  Arsenal,  at  which  are  stored  all 
sorts  of  military  equipments,  which  are   shipped  west   and  south,  as   occasion 


OHIO— No.  3. 


S8  TEE     OHIO    RIVER. 

requires.  The  town  contains  4  churches,  and  a  lyceum.  It  was  at  this  place 
General  Washington,  in  1753,  came  near  losing  his  life,  by  attempting  to  cross 
the  river  on  a  raft,  when  it  was  filled  with  floating  ice.     Population  1800. 

Alleghany  City,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Alleghany  river, 
opposite  Pittsburg.  This  city  is  strictly  a  part  of  Pittsburg,  though  under  a 
different  corporation.  Many  of  the  business  men  of  Pittsburg  reside  here.  It 
has  considerable  commerce,  and  does  a  large  manufacturing  business  ;  emjdoying 
a  heavy  capital.  The  city  contains  20  churches,  of  various  denominations,  3 
academies,  15  schools,  and  a  population  of  22,000. 

The  ^yestern  Theological  Seminary,  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  was  located 
bere,  in  1827.  This  institution  has  connected  with  it,  a  workshop  for  manual 
labor,  and  a  library  of  6000  volumes. 

Behind  Seminary  hill,  is  the  AVestern  Penitentiary,  an  immense  castle-built 
building,  of  the  ancient  Norman  style.  It  was  completed  in  1827,  at  a  cost  of 
$183,092. 

THE   OHIO   EIVER 

Is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  AUeghaiiy,*  and  Monongahela  at  Pittsburg,  in 
Lat.  40°  32'  N.,  and  after  a  meandering  course  of  1007  miles,  enters  the  Missis- 
sippi in  Lat.  37**  north,  172  miles  below  St.  Louis,  and  990  miles  above  New 
Orleans.  Tributary  rivers  and  creeks,  to  the  number  of  75,  empty  into  the  Ohio, 
between  Pittsburg  and  its  mouth,  the  principal  of  which,  are  described  in  their 
proper  places,  in  this  work.  And  there  are,  at  least,  100  considerable  Islands, 
besides  a  great  number  of  tow  heads  and  sand  bars.  Some  of  these  Islands  are  of 
exquisite  beauty,  covered  with  trees  of  the  most  beautiful  foliage. 

No  river  in  the  world,  rolls  for  so  great  a  distance,  such  a  uniform,  smooth, 
"and  placid  current.  Its  banks  are  generally  high,  and  precipitous,  rising  into 
bluffs,  cliffs,  and  hills;  sometimes  to  the  height  of  400  to  500  feet.  Between 
these  hills  and  the  river,  there  is  generally  a  strip  of  land,  of  unequal  width, 
called  bottom.  These  hills  and  bottoms,  are  mostly  covered  with  a  dense  growth 
of  gigantic  forest  trees,  exhibiting  a  wild  and  picturesque  grandeur.  The  scenery 
along  the  Ohio,  although  not  possessing  the  savage  grandeur  of  parts  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  Missouri,  is  of  surpassing  loveliness  and  beauty;  especially  in 
the  spring,  when  the  trees,  vines,  and  other  plants  are  putting  forth  their  exube- 
rant foliage  and  blossoms.  The  graceful  curves  and  bends  of  the  river,  exhibiting, 
in  the  distance,  one  range  of  hills,  laped  on  to  another,  with  beautifully  rounded 
tops,  and  covered  with  the  verdure  of  an  almost  unbroken  forest,  produce  a  series 
of  splendid  views  rarely  found. 

The  Ohio  river  flows  through  a  greater  extent  of  rich  Iron  and  Coal  regions 
than  any  other  river,  probably,  in  the  world.  Building  stone,  of  fine  quality, 
and  great  variety,  is  found  in  exhaustible  quantities,  on  and  near  its  banks.  And 
most  of  the  tributaries,  also,  extend  into  and  run  through  regions  of  country, 
containing  vast  mineral  wealth.  And  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  timber  in 
great  variety,  the  extent  of  country  drained,  (more  than  200,000  square  miles) 
is  unequaled  in  richness  and  fertility. 

The  medial  width  of  the  Ohio,  during  ordinary  stages  of  water,  from  Pittsburg 
to  its  mouth,  is  about  half  a  mile  ;  but  in  some  places  it  expands  to  a  mile  and 
more,  and  at  other  points,  it  contracts  to  hss  than  half  a  mile.  The  average 
range  between  high  and  low  water,  is  nearly  50  feet,  but  during  the  highest  floods, 
it  has  risen,  at  Cincinnati,  to  the  height  of  63  feet  above  low  water  mark. 

•  "  In  tracing  the  Ohio  to  its  source,  we  must  regard  the  Alleghany  as  its  proper  con- 
tinuation, »  *  »  »  a  boat  may  start  with  sufficient  water,  within  seven  miles  of 
Lake  Erie,  in  sight,  sometimes,  of  the  sails  which  whiten  the  approach  to  the  harbor  of 
Buffalo,  and  float  securely  down  the  Conewango,  or  Cassadaga,  to  the  Alleghany,  down 
the  Alleghany  to  the  Ohio,  and  thence  uninterruptedly  to  the  Gulf  of  Meixico." — EUet  on 
tht  Mississippi  and  Ohio  rivers. 


Proctora  , 


OHIO— No.  4 


%^ 


90  THE   OHIO   RIVER. 

The  Ohio  is  generally  navigable  for  steamers  of  the  largest  class,  from  Pitts- 
burg to  its  mouth,  at  all  seasons,  except  for  a  short  period  during  dry  summer 
months,  and  sometimes  a  few  weeks  obstruction  by  ice,  in  severe  winters.  The 
amaller  boats  are  never  stopped  running  by  low  wator. 

Pittsburg,   the  principal  city  of   Western  Pennsylvania,  is  situated  on  a 

__■-,  — —~=r-^:^. pointformedby  the  junc- 

piTTSBDRa.  the    world  —  surrounded 

by  inexhaustible  beds  of  iron,  coal,  &c.,  and  with  a  navigation  of  about  50,000 
miles,  which  gives  it  access  to  the  richest  and  most  fertile  regions  of  the  globe.  Its 
early  history  is  very  interesting.  The  Governor  of  Canada  (then  under  dominion 
of  the  French)  having  formed  the  design  of  connecting  that  province  with  Louisi- 
ana, by  a  line  of  defenses  extending  from  the  Lakes  to  the  Mississippi,  had  estab- 
lished a  post  at  the  mouth  of  French  creek,  and  was  about  to  take  possession 
of  ''the  Forks,"  as  the  site  of  Pittsburg  was  then  called.  Gov.  Dinwiddle,  of 
Virginia,  dispatched  George  Washington,  in  October,  1753,  to  demand  of  the 
French  commander  his  designs.  On  his  route,  he  stopped  at  "  the  Forks,"  and, 
thinking  it  a  proper  place  for  the  erection  of  a  fort,  communicated  it  to  the 
Governor.  The  following  spring,  the  Virginia  Ohio  Company  commenced  erect- 
ing fortifications  on  it.  While  engaged  in  doing  so,  on  the  17th  of  April,  1754, 
Monsieur  de  Contricoeur,  a  French  oflScer,  arrived  with  300  canoes,  containing 
1000  French  and  Indians,  and  18  cannon,  and  compelled  them  to  surrender. 
This  was  the  commencement  of  the  French  and  Indian  wars,  which  continued  9 
years.  The  French  gave  to  the  fort  the  name  of  Fort  Duquesne,  and  occupied 
it  until  the  24th  of  November,  1758,  when  Gen.  Forbes,  of  Pennsylvania,  and 
Col.  George  Washington,  having  marched  against  them,  they  set  fire  to,  and 
evacuated  it.  Gen.  Forbes  took  possession  the  next  day,  and  called  it  Fort  Pitt, 
in  honor  of  the  Earl  of  Chatham.  Little  improvement  was  made  until  after  the 
Revolution.  In  1775,  the  number  of  houses  did  not  exceed  30.  In  1786,  the 
first  newspaper  was  printed  here.     After  1795,  the  city  improved  rapidly. 

In  1801,  James  Berthone  &  Co.,  commenced  the  building  of  ships,  and  in  3 
years,  5  or  6  ships  and  schooners  were  finished  and  sent  to  sea. 

Pittsburg  is  now  the  great  mart  for  the  western  part  of  New  York,  Virginia, 
and  Pennsylvania.  It  is  connected  with  Philadelphia  and  the  Atlantic  cities  by 
the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  and,  during  the  canal-boating  season,  by  the  Penn- 
gylvania  Canal,  for  the  carriage  of  heavy  freight.  The  population  of  the  city 
proper,  is  about  55,000.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Alleghany,  is  Alleghany 
City,  with  a  population  of  about  22,000,  connected  with  Pittsburg  by  three 
bridges,  a  canal,  and  aqueduct.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Monongahela,  is  Bir- 
mingham, also  connected  with  the  city  by  a  splendid  bridge.  This  place  has  a 
large  number  of  manufactories,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Adjoining  it,  is  South 
Pittsburg.  The  district  within  5  miles  of  the  center  of  Pittsburg,  embracing 
Alleghany  city,  Manchester,  Birmingham,  Sligo,  Minersville,  East  Liberty,  Scotts- 
field.  South  Pittsburg,  &c.,  is  estimated  to  contain  a  population  of  175,000. 

The  city  suflfered  very  seriously  in  1845,  by  one  of  the  largest  conflagrations 
that  has  been  known  in  America.  The  fire  broke  out  on  the  11th  of  April,  on 
the  corner  of  Third  and  Market  streets,  and  swept  over  a  space  of  about  fifty -six  acres 
—twenty  squares,  and  several  parts  of  squares,  consuming  1000  brick  buildings, 


Big  HockhocVing  R 


92  THE  OHIO   RIVER. 

many  of  them  running  from  street  to  street.  This  was  the  most  wealthy  and 
business  portion  of  the  city.  Many  large  stores,  foundries,  manufactories,  dwell- 
ings, churches,  hotels,  and  the  bridge  across  the  Monongahola  were  entirely  con- 
sumed. The  destruction  of  property  was  estimated  at  between  $0,000,000  and 
$10,000,000. 

Pittsburg  is  a  great  manufacturing  city.  Iron  casting,  and  iron  mongery  of 
every  description,  steam  engines,  cutlery,  nails,  glass,  paper,  Avire,  steamboat 
building,  and  many  other  branches,  arc  carried  on  here  to  a  large  extent.  It 
has  about  GO  churches,  a  theological  seminary,  and  a  university,  a  merchants' 
exchange,  a  number  of  fine  schools,  a  museum,  a  theater,  and  one  of  the  finest 
court-houses  in  the  United  States.  There  is  also  an  arsenal,  consisting  of  an 
inclosed  plot  of  31  acres,  containing  a  magazine  of  arms,  a  powder  magazine, 
&c.  The  "Western  Penitentiary  of  the  State  is  also  located  here.  The  city  is 
supplied  with  clear  and  wholesome  water,  raised  from  the  Alleghany  by  steam 
power,  to  a  reservoir  on  Grant's  hill,  395  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Ohio.  The 
basin  is  11  feet  deep,  and  will  contain  1,000,000  gallons.  The  water  is  conducted 
through  the  city  in  iron  pipes. 

Manchester,  Pa.,  2  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  manufacturing  town.  Pop- 
ulation about  2000.     The  United  States  Marine  Hospital  is  just  below  this. 

Middleton,  Pa.,  9  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  Alleghany  co. 

Sewickleyville,  Pa.,  2  miles  below.  Population  about  1000.  A  semin- 
ary for  boys  is  located  here. 

Economy,  Pa.,  6  miles  below,  is  a  settlement  made  by  George  Rapp,  a  Ger- 
man, who,  with  a  number  of  his  countrymen,  of  the  religious  order  called  Har- 
monists, first  settled  in  Butler  co..  Pa.  From  thence,  they  all  removed  to  the 
"Wabash,  and  built  the  village  of  New  Harmony.  They  numbered,  then,  about 
800.  New  Harmony  was  purchased,  in  1814,  by  Robert  Owen,  and  Rapp  and 
bis  followers  established  themselves  at  Economy.  The  Harmonists  hold  their 
property  in  common.  They  have  a  number  of  good  mills  here,  and  are  noted 
for  their  industry  and  sobriety.     The  population  of  Economy  is  about  1400. 

Mr.  Rapp  died  in  1847,  at  a  very  advanced  age.  He  was  highly  respected,  and 
ably  qualified  for  the  station  he  occupied  as  the  head  of  this  community. 

Baden,  Pa.,  a  small  village,  4  miles  below. 

Freedom,  Pa.,  is  a  small  village,  2  miles  below.     Population  about  600. 

Rochester,  Pa.,  4  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  Beaver  river.  The  Ohio 
and  Pennsylvania  Railroad  passes  along  the  bank  of  the  Ohio,  from  this  point  to 
Pittsburg.     Population  about  1200. 

Beaver,  1  mile  below,  in  Beaver  co..  Pa.,  at  the  mouth  of  Beaver  river,  is  a 
thriving  town,  possessing  great  water-power  advantages,  derived  from  the  Falls  of 
Beaver.  A  branch  of  the  Ohio  Canal  extends  from  Akron,  in  Summit  county, 
Ohio,  to  the  Beaver  division  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  near  Newcastle,  in 
Mercer  county — length,  88  miles.  The  Beaver  division  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Canal  runs  from  Beaver  to  the  head  of  slack-water  navigation  on  the  Shenango — • 
distance,  31  miles.  Numerous  mills  and  manufacturing  establishments  are  in 
operation  in  and  around  Beaver,  and  several  small  villages  are  scattered  along  the 
river,  within  a  short  distance  of  it.     Population  about  2300. 

Jacobsburg,  Pa.,  opposite  Beaver. 

Georgetown,  Pa.,  14  miles  below,  and  1  mile  above  the  Ohio  line,  is  a 
small  village.     Population  about  300. 

Glasgow,  Pa.,  opposite  Georgetown.  Here  is  the  terminus  of  the  Sandy 
and  Beaver  Canal. 

Liverpool,  4  miles  below,  is  a  pleasant  village  in  Columbiana  co.,  0.  Pop- 
ulation about  2000.  An  extensive  business  is  carried  on  here,  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  earthenware.  , 


BcUevUIe  I. 


94  THE  OHIO  RIVER.  ' 

Wells  ville,  0.,  4  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Clevelaud 
and  Pittsburg  llailroad.  This  town  was  laid  out  by  AVm.  Wells,  in  1824,  and 
now  contains  a  population  of  about  2000.  The  landing  for  steamboats  is  good. 
It  is  an  important  point  for  the  shipment  of  produce — the  surrounding  country 
being  fine  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  the  county  the  best  in  Ohio  for  wool-growing. 
Nearly  opposite  this  place,  the  -well-known  desperate  battle  between  Adam  Poe,  his 
brother,  and  a  party  of  Indians,  is  said  to  have  taken  place  ;  and  2  miles  below,  near  the 
mouth  of  Great  Yellow  creek,  the  locality  of  tlie  murder  of  the  family  of  Logan,  the 
Mingo  Chief. 

Elliottsville,  Jefferson  co.,  0.,  8  miles  below. 
Newburg,  0.,  2  miles  below,  in  the  same  co. 

Steubenville,  9  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Jefferson  cq.,  0.  Fort 
Steuben  was  erected  here  in  1789,  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  Female  Semin- 
ary. It  was  guarded  by  a  company  of  troops  commanded  by  Col.  Beattie.  At 
the  period  of  Wayne's  victory  it  was  deserted. 

Steubenville  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  elevated  plane,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  about  8000,  12  churches,  5  public,  and  4  select  schools,  1  male 
academy,  and  a  splendid  female  seminary.  In  the  town  and  vicinity,  there  are 
a  number  of  large  flouring  mills,  a  paper  mill,  5  woolen  factories,  one  of  them 
manufacturing  into  cloth  60000  pounds  of  wool  annually,  2  cotton,  and  2  glass 
manufactories,  3  iron  foundries,  a  steam  saw-mill,  2  breweries,  and  several  manufac- 
tories of  copperas  in  the  vicinity.  In  the  neighboring  country,  much  attention 
is  paid  to  the  rearing  of  Merino  and  other  superior  breeds  of  sheep.  Through  a 
great  portion  of  this  region,  there  are  inexhaustible  beds  of  stone-coal. 

Three  miles  below  Steubenville,  was  the  former  site  of  the  old  Mingo  town, 
and  residence  of  Logan,  the  celebrated  Indian  chief.  It  is  now  occupied  as  farms. 
The  terminus  of  the  Steubenville  and  Indiana  Railroad  is  at  Steubenville,  and 
directly  opposite,  in  Va.,  is  that  of  the  Stuehenville  and  Pittsburg  Railroad. 

Wellsburg,  7  miles  below,  formerly  called  Charleston,  is  the  county  seat 
of  Brooke  co.,  Va.,  373  miles  from  Richmond,  the  capital  of  the  State.  ^  It  was 
laid  out  in  1789,-  and  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  elevated  bank  of  the  river.  It 
contains  6  churches,  2  white  flint  glass  manufactories,  1  glass-cutting  shop,  1 
paper  mill,  1  cotton  factory,  5  large  warehouses,  6  flouring  mills,  1  woolen  factory, 
2  printing  offices,  1  bank,  and  a  population  of  about  3000.  The  manufacturing 
of  earthen  and  stone  ware  is  carried  on  here  extensively.  Extensive  coal  mines  are 
worked  in  the  vicinity. 

"Warrenton,  sometimes  called  Warren,  7  miles  below,  in  Jefferson  co.,  0., 
is  a  small  village,  containing  about  300  inhabitants. 
Tiltonsville,  0.,  3  miles  below,  in  Jefferson  co. 
Burlington,  0.,  4  miles  below,  in  Belmont  co. 

Martinsville,  1  mile  below,  in  the  same  co.,  is  a  flourishing  village,  con- 
taining 3  churches,  and  about  500  inhabitants. 

Wheeling,  1  mile  below,  is   the  county  seat  of  Ohio  co.,  Va.     It  is   261 

miles    from   Richmond, 
and  351  from  Washing- 
ton  city.      It    lies    on 
;both  sides  of  Wheeling 
;  creek,  over  which,  there 
i  is  a  beautiful  stone  bridge. 
j  The  city  stands  on  a  high 
''  bank   of  the  river,  sur- 
I  rounded  by   bold   hills, 
'in  which  abundance  of 
wHiitiHo.  stone-coal  is  found.    It 


Twelve  Poto  Cf. 


Amanda  Furnace  Landing, 

KENTUCKY.  Bic  <?,„.,,.« 
Cfttlettsburgh 


VIRGINIA. 


96  THE  OHIO  RIVER. 

contains  a  population  of  about  14,000,  has  14  churches,  2  academies,  3  banks,  and 
a  savings  institution,  a  large  number  of  stores  and  commission-houses,  iron  found- 
ries, steam-engine  factories,  glass  houses,  woolen  and  cotton  factories,  paper  mills, 
8aw-mills,  white  and  sheet  lead  and  copperas  factories,  6  or  8  printing  offices,  and 
many  flourishing  mills  in  its  vicinity.  A  large  number  of  steamboats  are  owned 
here.  The  National  Road  passes  through  Wheeling.  The  city  is  supplied  with 
water  from  the  river,  raised  by  machinery. 

Wheeling  is  the  western  terminus  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  also 
of  the  Hcniplield  Railroad,  connecting  with  the  Penn.  R.  R.  at  Greensburg,  Pa. 

The  splendid  wire  suspension  bridge,  over  the  Ohio,  at  this  place,  built  at  a  cost 
of  over  6200,000,  was  blown  down  during  a  gale,  in  May,  1854.*  The  following 
description  of  this  bridge  is  from  a  former  edition  of  the  River  Guide. 

"The  span  is  the  longest  in  the  world,  being  1010  feet.  It  is  92  feet  above 
low  water  mark,  21  feet  wide,  and  supported  by  12  wire  cables,  each  1380  feet 
long,  and  4  inches  in  diameter,  and  each  containing  572  strands  of  No.  10  wire. 
There  is  a  carriage  way  of  17  feet,  and  2  foot-paths,  each  3  J  feet  wide.  The 
towers  on  the  Wheeling  side  are  153J^  feet  above  low  water  mark,  and  60  feet 
above  the  abutment  on  which  it  stands  j  on  the  other  side  they  are  21  feet  lower. 
This  stupendous  structure  was  built  by  a  company  of  capitalists,  who  obtained  a 
charter  in  1847." 

Fort  Henry,  at  the  mouth  of  Wheeling  creek,  the  first  settlement  was  formed 
here  in  17G9,  by  3  brothers  of  the  name  of  Zane,  together  with  a  small  party  of  emigrants. 
The  fort,  however,  was  not  built  till  1774,  and  was  at  first  called  FIncastle  ;  but  in  1776, 
the  name  was  changed  to  that  of  Henry,  in  honor  of  Patrick  Heiiry,  the  eloquent  and 
patriotic  Governor  of  Virginia.  During  Dunmorc's  war  it  was  a  place  of  refuge  for 
settlers. 

Bridgeport,  opposite  Wheeling,  in  Belmont  co.,  0.,  is  a  depot  of  consider- 
able importance,  from  which  goods  are  forwarded  through  that  part  of  Ohio,  by 
the  National  Road.  It  contains  1  church,  several  mills,  and  warehouses,  a  branch 
of  the  State  Bank  of  Ohio,  and  a  population  of  about  500. 

Bellaire,  0.,  4  miles  below,  in  Belmont  co.  This  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Central  Ohio  Railroad. 

Mannyville,  Va.,  8  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  Little  Grave  creek. 

Elizabethtown,  Va.,  1  mile  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Marshall  co.  It  is 
situated  on  the  upper  side  of  Big  Grave  creek.  On  the  lower  side  of  the  creek 
is  MOUNDSVILLE.  United,  they  contain  a  population  of  about  1200,  a  print- 
ing  office,  several  stores,  an  academy,  and  a  steam  flouring  mill.  The  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Railroad  passes  through  the  place. 

Big  Grave  Creek,  affords  some  matter  of  curiosity  to  the  traveler.  A 
short  distance  up  the  creek  is  the  largest  Indian  mound,  perhaps,  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  between  30  and  40  rods  in  circumference  at  the  base,  and  about 
75  feet  high.  Its  sides  are  covered  with  aged  trees.  The  mound,  may  be  seen 
from  steamboats  passing  along  the  river.  Grave  creek  was  settled  in  1770  by 
Joseph  Tomlinson,  who,  with  a  small  party,  emigrated  from  Maryland. 

Opposite  Grave  creek,  in  Ohio,  in  1790,  stood  Fort  Billies. 

Steinerville,  8  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  Belmont  co.,  0.,  at  the 
mouth  of  Captina  creek.  Near  this  place,  a  most  bloody  contest  took  place  be- 
tween the  Americans  and  Indians,  in  May,  1794,  known  as  the  battle  of  Captina. 

Clarington,  7  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  Monroe  co.,  0.,  at  the 
mouth  of  Sunfish  creek.  Population  about  400.  The  county  is  generally  hilly, 
and  the  western  part  abounds  in  iron  ore  and  coal.  A  large  amount  of  tobacco 
is  grown  here. 

•  The  Towers,  Ac,  not  being  injured,  a  temporary  structure,  some  10  feet  wide,  has 
sioce  been  erected. 


Sciotovi 


98  THE  OHIO  RIVER.  I 

New  Martinsville,  capital  of  Wetzel  co.,  Va.,  8  miles  below,  at  the  mouth 
of  I'i.sbing  creek,  contaius  a  court-house,  a  number  of  stores,  and  about  300 
iuhabitanta. 

Sisters vi lie,  Va.,  9  miles  below,  in  Tyler  co.  It  has  a  good  landing  for 
steauiboats,  auJ  is  the  terminus  of  several  turnpike  roads.  Coal  and  iron  aro 
found  near.      Population  about  1100. 

Newport,  12  miles  below,  in  Washington,  co.,0.     Population  about  700. 

Marietta,  19  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum  river,  is  the 
couuty  sfat  of  Washington  co.,  O.,  and  a  place  of  considerable  importance  in  the 
hL-itory  of  the  State.  Near  this  spot,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Muskingum,  at  its 
junction  with  the  Ohio,  the  second  military  post  in  the  State,  was  built  in  the 
autumn  of  1785,  by  a  party  of  troops,  under  the  command  of  ]Major  John 
Doughty.  They  erected  a  fort  called  Fort  Harmar.  On  the  7th  of  April,  1788, 
a  party  of  47  men,  under  the  direction  of  General  Rufus  Putnam,  landed  here, 
having  been  sent  out  by  the  Ohio  Company  to  form  a  permanent  settlement  on 
its  purchase.  This  was  the  first  permanent  settlement  in  Ohio.  G-eneral  St. 
Clair,  who  had  been  appointed  Governor,  not  having  arrived,  temporary  laws 
were  formed  for  the  government  of  the  settlers,  and  published  by  nailing  to  a 
tree.'  Return  Jonathan  Meigs  was  appointed  to  execute  them.  Many  of  these 
settlers  were  men  of  high  character ;  some  of  them  had  served  in  the  severe  toils 
of  the  revolution.  General  Washington  said  of  them,  "  There  never  were  men 
better  calculated  to  promote  the  welfare  of  such  a  community."  On  the  2d  of 
Jul)',  a  meeting  was  called  on  the  bank  of  the  Muskingum,  and  the  name  of 
Marietta  given  to  the  place,  in  honor  of  Maria  Antoinette,  Arch-Duchess  of 
Austria.  On  the  2d  of  September,  the  first  court  was  organized  with  great 
solemnity,  at  Campus  Martins  Hall,  (as  the  stockade  was  called,)  llufus  Putnam 
and  Benjamin  Tupper,  judges.  This  settlement  experienced  great  privations  and 
trials,  during  its  early  history,  but  improved  rapidly. 

Marietta  is  built  on  a  level  plot  of  ground,  and  part  of  it  is  liable  to  be  over- 
flowed by  the  floods  of  the  Ohio.  It  contains  8  churches,  2  academies,  a  college, 
2  public  libraries,  1  bank,  2  printing  offices,  and  a  number  of  extensive  manu- 
facturing establishments.     Population  about  4500. 

Marietta  is  the  terminus  of  the  Marietta  ancT  Cincinnati  Railroad,  now  con- 
structing. 

Harmar,  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Muskingum,  opposite  Marietta.  It  is 
favorably  situated  for  manufacturing  purposes,  having  the  double  advantage  of  2 
rivers  and  the  dam  of  the  Muskingum.  Steamboat  buildino;  is  carried  on  to  a 
considerable  extent,  and  there  are  several  mills,  and  manufactories  of  different 
kinds.  Harmar  has  a  fine  large  hotel,  a  male  and  female  academy,  and  about 
IGOO  inhabitants. 

Muskingum  River,     {^See page  124.) 

Vienna,  V  a. ,6  miles  below  Marietta,  nearly  opposite  an  island  of  the  same  name. 

Parkersburg,  7  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Wood  co.,  Va.,  and  is  at 
the  mouth  of  Little  Kanawha  river.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  and 
contains  4  churches,  1  printing  office,  1  bank,  4  steam  mills,  2  tanneries,  and  1 
carding  factory.  Population  nearly  4000.  It  is  the  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the 
B^iltiiDnre  and  Ohio  Railroad. 

Little  Kanawha  River,  rises  in  Braxon  co.,  Va.,  and  after  a  course  of 

l.'iO  miles,  einpti(^3  into  the  Ohio  at  Parkersburg.  Extensive  veins  of  stone  coal,  and  a 
number  of  salt  springs,  are  in  the  country  through  which  it  flows.  It  is  navigable  but  a 
few  miles. 

Belpre,  opposite  Parkersburg,  in  Washington  co.,  0. 

Blannerhassett's  Island,  2  miles  below,  is  celebrated  as  having  been 
thij  residence  of  Herman   IJlannerhasset,  an  Irish    emigrant  of  distinction,  who. 


%.v,e,^ 


'Jaysr.ille 


100  THE    OHIO    RIVER. 

about  the  year  1798,  commenced  improving  it,  and  built  a  splendid  mansion.  His 
lady  was  a  highly  accomplished  woman,  and  his  house  was  the  resort  of  the  most 
literary  and  refined  society.  When  Aaron  Ikirr  was  projecting  his  famous  expe- 
dition, he  called  on  Blannerhasset,  induced  him  to  join  in  the  conspiracy,  and 
embark  all  his  wealth  in  the  scheme.  They  were  detected,  arrested,  and  tried 
for  treason.  Although  not  convicted,  Blannerhasset  was  ruined.  His  splendid 
mansion  was  deserted  and  went  to  decay,  and  his  pleasure  grounds  overrun  with 
brush  and  weeds. 

Centre,  0.,  isa  small  village,  nearly  opposite  the  foot  of  the  island. 

Troy,  or  Hockingsport,  12  miles  below,  in  Athens  co.,  0.,  isa  small  village,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Hockhockiug  river.     Population  about  250. 

The  Hockhocking  River,  rises  in  Fairfield  co.,  0.,  winds  through  a  hilly 

country  about  80  miles,  and  enters  the  Ohio  river  at  Troy.  The  name  of  the  river  is  that 
given  to  it  by  the  Delaware  Indians,  and  signifies  a  bottle. 

This  river  is  navigable  for  small  crafts  to  Athens,  the  county  seat.  7  miles  from  Lan- 
caster, it  falls  over  a  ledge  of  rocks,  about  49  feet  perpendicular.  Above  the  falls  it  re- 
sembles a  bottle  in  shape,  which  probably  gave  rise  to  the  name.  The  whole  country 
along  it  is  full  of  ■wild  and  picturesque  scenery.  Numerous  ancient  mounds  and  fortifica- 
tions, are  found  nortli  of  Athens,  some  of  them  built  of  stone — differing  entirely  from 
any  found  in  the  vicinity.  Some  of  them  are  of  an  extraordinary  size  ;  in  one  was  found 
a  thousand  perch  of  stone,  out  of  which,  a  dam  was  constructed  across  the  river.  At 
Athens  thei'e  is  a  flourishing  university  endowed  with  2  townships  of  land. 

Belleville,  4  miles  below  Troy,  in  Wood  co.,  Va.,  at  the  mouth  of  Lee's 
creek,  was  settled  in  1785,  by  a  party  of  emigrants  from  Pittsburgh,  under  the 
direction  of  Joseph  Wood,  Esq.  In  1786,  extensive  blockhouses,  surrounded  by 
pickets,  were  erected,  to  prevent  the  incursions  of  the  Indians,  from  whom  the 
settlers  suffered  severely.     It  was  the  scene  of  many  tragical  events. 

Murraysville,  5  miles  below,  in  Jackson  co.,  Va.  The  business  of  steam- 
boat buildiuff  is  carried  on  here  to  some  extent. 

Shade  River,  1  mile  below,  on  the  Ohio  side,  is  a  small  stream  which 
empties  in  the  Ohio  here.  Its  mouth  was  formerly  called  the  "  Devil's  Hole." 
This  was  the  point  at  which  the  Scioto  Indians  usually  crossed  the  Ohio,  after 
their  predatory  incursions  into  Virginia. 

Ravenswood,  11  miles  below,  in  Jackson  co.,  Va.,  has  a  population  of 
about  350,  2  churches,  2  school  houses,  a  number  of  stores,  and  a  large  saw  and 
grist  mill.  The  country  is  hilly  but  generally  very  productive,  and  is  finely 
adapted  for  grazing,  and  many  sheep  and  cattle  are  raised  here. 

Letartsville,  23  miles  below,  is  a  small  town  in  Meigs  co.,  0.  It  is  situated 
just  at  the  falls,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Island  bearing  that  name. 

Graham's  Station,  6  miles  below,  in  Meigs  co.,  0.,  a  small  place  contain- 
ing aoout  150  inhabitants. 

Racine,  0.,  1  mile  below,  is  a  small  village. 

Miuersville,  0.,  6  miles  below,  immediately  above  Pomeroy. 

Pomeroy,  1  mile  below,  the  county  seat  of  Meigs  co.,  0.,  is  a  flourishing 
town.  It  was  settled  in  1816,  and  the  coal  mines  opened  in  1832.  In  1S41, 
Pomeroy  was  made  the  county  seat.  It  is  situated  on  a  narrow  strip  of  land, 
running  some  distance  along  the  river.  Immediately  back  of  it  is  a  rough,  pre- 
cipitous hill,  and  the  country  in  the  interior  is  wild  and  romantic.  It  abounds 
with  stone  coal  of  a  good  quality,  and  large  quantities  are  furnished  to  steam- 
boats and  shipped  to  points  below.  In  1851,  a  company  was  formed  here  for  the 
manufacture  of  salt,  and  an  extensive  business  is  now  carried  on  in  that  article. 
There  are  a  number  of  large  manufactories,  foundries,  mills,  &c.,  established  here, 
employing  a  heavy  capital  and  a  large  number  of  hands.     Population  4000. 

Coalport,  1  mile  below,  is  the  principal  mining  point  of  the  Pomeroy  com- 
pany. Railways  are  here  built  for  the  purpose  of  running  down  the  coal  from 
the  mines  to  boats  in  the  river. 


nifrn'pffi 


Augusta 


Turtle  Cr. 


Pendleton 


Jamestown. 


102  THE     OHIO    RIVER. 

Middleport,  1  mile  below  Coalport.  These  towns  owe  their  increase  to  the 
coal  trade,  which  is  becoming  more  extensive  every  year. 

Sheffield  adJDin,^  Middleport,  and  is  a  flourishing  village. 

West  Columbia,  1  milt;  below,  in  Mason  co.,  Va.,  is  a  thriving  village. 
The  nianufiicturin<;  of  salt  is  carried  on  here  to  considerable  extent. 

Cheshire,  3  miles  below,  in  Gallia  co.,  0. 

Addison,  0.,  o  miles  below,  in  same  co.  , 

Point  Pleasant,  4  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Kanawha  river, 
is  tlie  county  seat  of  Mason  co.,  Va.  It  is  the  site  of  the  bloodiest  battle  ever  fought  with 
the  Indians  in  Virginia — the  "  battle  of  Point  Pleasant,"  on  the  10th  of  October,  1774,  when 
about  1100  Americans  were  attacked  by  a  large  body  of  Indian  warriors,  comprising  the 
llower  of  the  Shawance,  Delaware,  Mingo,  Wyandotte,  and  Cuyahoga  tribes,  led  on  by  that 
famous  warrior,  Cornstalk,  The  battle  continued  all  day,  when  the  Indians  finding  them- 
selves about  to  be  completely  surrounded,  retreated  across  the  Ohio,  to  their  towns  on  the 
Scioto.  Point  Pleasant  contains  2  churches,  several  stores,  a  court-house,  2  mills,  2  tanneries, 
aud  about  600  inhabitants. 

The  Great  Kanawha  River,  is  the  principal  stream  of  Western  Virginia. 

It  rises  in  the  Alleghany  mountains,  and,  after  winding  through  a  highly  picturesque  and 
mountainous  region,  enters  the  Ohio  at  Point  Pleasant.  It  is  navigable  for  small  steam- 
boats, to  the  Kanawha  Salines — a  distance  of  60  miles  from  its  mouth — where  are  tlie  most 
extensive  salines  in  the  western  country.  The  quantity  of  salt  manufactured  annually  is 
about  three  millions  of  bushels. 

The  scenery  along  the  Kanawha  is  unsurpassed  by  any  in  the  west.  From  the  mouth  of 
the  river  to  Charleston,  the  county  seat  of  Kanawha  county,  a  distance  of  55  miles  ;  it  is 
pleasingly  variegated  hj  fertile  fields  and  rough  mountain  landscapes.  Above  the  salines, 
the  river  is  broken  by  falls,  and  the  country  becomes  more  mountainous.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  falls  are  many  places  of  great  interest.  Among  others,  the"  Hawk's  Nest,"  or, 
r.s  it  has  sometimes  been  called,  "  Marshall's  Pillar,"  a  bold  projecting  mountain  peak, 
that  rises  to  the  height  of  1000  feet  above  the  river. 

Gallipolis,  4  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Gallia  co.,  0.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  high  bank.  It  was  originally  settled  in  1791,  by  a  party  of  French  emigrants. 
It  is  a  forwarding  point  for  a  large  amount  of  produce. .  Population  about  1000. 

Big  Racoon   Creek,    enters  the   Ohio  from   Gallia  co.,  5    miles  below 

Gallipolis. 

Blandenburg,  0.,  6  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Millersport,  14  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  Lawrence  co.,  0.  Popu- 
lation about  150. 

Haskellville,  0.,  a  small  village,  3  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Guyandotte,  10  miles  below,  in  Cabell  co.,  Va.,  at  the  mouth  of  Guyandotte 
river,  is  tlie  most  important  point  of  steamboat  embarkation  in  Western  Virginia,  except 
Wheeling.  The  great  i^tage  route  along  the  Kanawha  to  Winchester  commences  here.  It 
Is  a  flourishing  place.     Population  about  1200. 

Guyandotte  River,  rises  in  Logan  co.,  Va.     It  is  a  small  stream. 
Proctor sville,  a  small  village  in  Ohio,  nearly  opposite  Guyandotte. 
Burlington,  8  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Lawrence  co.,  0.     Popu- 

ulation  about  500. 

The  country  around  Burlington,  abounds  in  iron  ore.  There  are  a  large  number  of 
furnaces  in  operation.     It  is  situated  in  the  most  southern  extremity  of  the  State. 

Big  Sandy  River,  enters  the  Ohio,  4  miles  below  Burlington,  and  is  the 
boundarv  between  Ky.,  and  Va.  It  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  cast  and  west'  forks  at 
Louisa,  Lawrence  co.,  Ivy.,  about  50  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  east  fork  rises  in  Tazewell 
CO.,  Va.;  the  west  fork  in  Russell  co.,  Va.  The  east  branch  is  some  150  miles  in  length. 
Vhe  Big  Sandy,  and  branches,  flow  through  very  extensive  beds  of  bituminous  coal,  from 
which  larnje  quantities  are  annually  mined  and  shipped  to  towns  below,  on  the  Ohio.  It 
is  navigable  for  small  steamers  during  high  water,  altout  100  miles. 

Catlettsburg,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  ^audy  river,  in  Greenup  co.,  Ky., 
forms  the  extreme  north-eastern  point  of  the  State. 

Coal  Grove,  Lawrence  co..  0.,  a  small  village,  4  miles  below. 

Ironton,  Lawrence  co.,  0.,  5  miles  below,  was  commenced  in  June,  1849,  by 
the  "  Ohio  Iron  and  Coal  Company."  It  is  located  on  a  bank  of  the  river,  above  the  highest 
freshets,  in  the  midst  of  the  richest  iron  aud  coal  region  of  Ohio  and  Kentucky.     A  large 


Arnolds  Cr 


104  TEE   OHIO    RIVER. 

number  of  blast  furnaces  are  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  connected  by  the  Iron  Railroad  with  (he 
mineral  regions  on  the  norlli.  Steam  engines,  locomotives,  railway  cars,  machinery,  stoves, 
hollow  ware,  axes,  Ac,  are  manufactured  extensively.  There  are,  also,  foundries,  rolling 
mills,  planing  mills,  <fec.     Population  about  2000, 

Hanging  Rock,  4  miles  below,  in   Lawrence  co.,  0.,  derives  its  name   from 

a  cliff  of  rocks  about  400  feet  high,  in  the  rear  of  the  town.  It  is  the  principal  shipping 
point  for  the  iron  manufactured  in  that  region.  The  different  mines  in  the  vicinity  are 
connected  with  this  point  by  means  of  Railroads.     Population  about  1000. 

Greenupsburgh,  6  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Greenup,  co.,  Ky.     It 

is  situated  at  the  moutli  of  Little  Sandy  river.     Population  350. 

Wheelersburgh,  8  miles  below,  in  Scioto  co.,  0.,  is  a  flourishing  town^with 

a  poplulation  of  800. 

Scioto vi lie,  0.,  a  small  village,  3  miles  below,  in  Scioto  co. 

Portsmouth,  9  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Scioto  co.,  is  situated  on  a  high 
bank,  on  the  upper  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto  river,  and  at  the  terminus  of  the  Ohio 
Canal.  It  is  90  miles  south  of  Columbus,  the  capital  of  the  State.  Portsmouth  is  a  point 
of  considerable  importance.  A  vast  deal  of  business  is  transacted  here,  and  the  town  is  in 
a  flourishing  condition.  It  contains  8  or  10  churches,  a  iiue  court-house,  a  bank,  a  number 
of  stores,  rolling,  flour,  and  oil  mills,  carding  machine,  forge,  nail  factory,  and  several 
foundries,  and  4  printing  offices.  Iron  ore,  coal,  and  fine  building  stone,  are  abundant  in 
the  vicinity.  The  population  is  about  5500.  The  Scioto  and  Hocking  Valley  Railroad  ter- 
minates here. 

Scioto  River,    {See  'page  124.) 

Springville,  Greenup  co.,  Ky.,  opposite  Portsmouth,  contains  a  foundry,  several 
manufactories,  and  a  population  of  about  200.  This  county  abounds  in  fine  beds  of  iron 
ore.     There  are  10  blast  furnaces  in  operation  in  it. 

Alexandria,  3  miles  below,  in  Scioto  co.,  0.,  is  a  small  village. 

Bradford,  3  miles  below,  in  same  co. 

Rockville  ,  11  miles  below,  in  Adams  co.,  0.,  is  a  small  village.  It  has  mills 
for  sawing  stone,  quarried  in  the  vicinity. 

Vanceburg,  2  miles  below,  in  Lewis  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  small  village.     Pop.  200. 

Rome,  7  miles  below,  in  Adams  co.,  0.,  is  asmall  place. 

Concord,?  miles  below,  a  small  village  in  Lewis  co.,  Ky.     Pop.  about  200. 

Manchester,  7  miles  below,  a  thriving  village  in  Adams  co.,  0.,  contains 
several  flouring  mills,  and  factories  ;  population  about  600.  The  first  settlement  within 
the  Virginia  military  district  was  made  at  this  point,  in  1795,  by  Gen.  Nathaniel  Massie. 

Maysville,  12  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Mason  co.,  Ky.  It  was  for  many 
years  known  as  "  Limestone,"  from  the  creek  of  that  name,  which  here  enters  the  Ohio.  It 
-was  settled  in  1784,  under  the  auspices  of  Simon  Kenton.  Col.  Daniel  Boone  resided  here 
in  1786.  Maysville  stands  on  a  high  bank,  and  presents  quite  a  beautiful  appearance  from 
the  river.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  range  of  bold  and  verdant  highlands.  It  is  the  depot  for 
goods  and  produce  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the  State,  and  is  the  largest  hemp  market  in 
the  United  States.  Maysville  was  incorporated  in  1833.  It  is  a  compactly  built  city, con- 
taining a  number  of  fine  edifices;  a  handsome  city-hall,  a  substantial  stone  jail,  8  or  9 
churches,  a  hospital,  2  banks,  2  large  seminaries,  public  and  private  schools,  a  number  of 
printing  offices,  2  steam  cotton  factories,  1  bagging  factory,  a  wool-carding  factory,  2  found- 
ries, 5  rope  walks,  2  steam  saw  mills,  a  large  flouring  mill,  and  divers  other  factories;  a 
large  number  of  stores,  and  commission  houses,  pork-houses,  lumber  yards,  (fee.  Population 
about  7000. 

Aberdeen,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Maysville,  in  Brown  co.,  0., 

is  a  thriving  village,  containing  a  population  of  about  900. 

Charleston,  7  miles  below,  in  Mason  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  small  village. 

Ripley,  2  miles  below,  in  Brown  co.,  0.,  is  a  flourishing  business  town.  It 
was  laid  out  in  1812,  and  was  called  Staunton  ;  it  was  changed  to  Ripley  in  honor  of  Gen. 
Ripley,  a  military  officer,  highly  esteemed  by  the  settlers  at  this  place  It  contains  1  bank, 
6  cn\irches,  a  newspaper  printing  office,  and  about  2000  inhabitants. 

.    Lavana,  2  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  the  same  co. 

Lover,  opposite  Lavana,  in  Mason  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  thriving  village,  in  the  center 
of  the  tobacco  region.     Population  650. 

Higgins  port,  4  miles  below,  in  Brown  co.,  0.,  is  a  flourishing  village.  Popu- 
lation about  650. 


■^"'s  C,  S.\      ~  \  \^  Warsaw 


106  THE   OHIO    RIVER. 

Augusta,  4  miles  below,  in  Bracken  co.,  Ky.,  is  handsomely  situated.  There 
have  been  numerous  human  bones  excavated  from  the  earth  in  Augusta,  proving  it  to  have 
been  a  burial  place  in  times  long  since  grone  by.  A  resident  of  this  town  mentions  having 
found  110  skeletons  in  diggiuir  a  cellar  60  by  70  feet. 

Augusta  contains  about  1:20U  inhabitants.  Augusta  college  was  founded  in  1822,  by  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  being  the  first  college  ever  instituted  by  that  Church. 

Rock  spring,  Ky.,  is  a  landing  point,  4  miles  below. 

Mechanicsburgh,  4  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  Clermont  co.,  0.  Popu- 
lation about  200. 

Neville,  3  miles  below,  is  a  village  of  considerable  enterprise,  in  the  same 
CO.     Population  350. 

Fosterville,  a  small  village  opposite  Neville,  in  Ky. 

Moscow,  0.,  2  miles  below  Neville.     Population  about  300. 

Point  Pleasant,  3  miles  below,  a  village  in  Clermont  co.     Population  200. 

There  are  2  large  pork-packing  establishments  here. 

Belmont,  opposite  Point  Pleasant,  in  Ky.,  is  a  small  village. 

New  Richmond,  5  miles  below,  in  Clermont  co.,  0.,  is  a  thriving  business 
town,  and  the  largest  and  most  important  one  in  the  county.  It  contains  about2500  inhabitants. 

Palestine,  4  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business. 
There  is  an  extensive  brick-yard  here.  The  brick  are  made  by  machinery  and  shipped  to 
Cincinnati  by  flat-boats.     Population  about  350. 

California,  Hamilton  co.,  0.,is  a  small  village  near  the  mouth  of  the  Little 
Miami. 

The  Little  Miami  River    enters  the  Ohio,  about   15   miles   below  New 

Richmond,  and  6  miles  above  Cincinnati.  It  flows  through  a  very  fertile  country,  adorned 
•with  fine  farms.  There  are  upwards  of  50  mill-seats  on  its  banks.  In  the  neighborhood  of 
Yellow  Springs,  about  70  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  a  place  called  "  Clifton,"  which  affords 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  in  the  west.  Here  the  river,  in  the  distance  of  a  few 
miles,  falls  200  feet.  These  falls  have  cut  a  narrow  channel  to  a  great  depth,  through  solid 
rocks  of  limestone.  The  banks  are  covered  with  hemlock,  cedar,  and  other  evergreens.  la 
some  places,  the  stream  is  so  narrow  that  a  person  can  leap  from  bank  to  bank.  The  Little 
Miami  abounds  in  excellent  fish.  Toward  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  the  land  bordering  on  it 
is  low,  and  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  "  Miami  Bottoms,"  which  are  exceedingly  fertile, 
subject  to  overflow,  during^oorfs  in  the  Ohio,  by  "  back  water."     It  is  not  navigable. 

Columbia,  2  miles  below,  was  originally  designed  for  the  great  emporium  of 
the  west.  It  was  laid  out  by  Major  Benjamin  Stites,  in  1780,  and  a  plat  extends  for  more 
than  a  mile  along  the  Ohio,  reaching  back  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  The  site  not  being 
found  sufficiently  high  above  the  floods  of  the  river,  the  project  of  a  city  was  abandoned. 
The  first  church  in  Ohio  was  built  here. 

Pendleton,  a  flourishing  town  adjoining  Columbia. 

Jamestown,  Ky.,  a  small  village,  opposite  the  eastern  limit  of  Cincinnati, 
(formerly  Fulton.)     Population  about  300. 

Brooklyn,  Ky.,  immediately  below,  and  adj oining  Jamestown. 


Cincinnati,  the  county  seat  of  Hamilton  co.,  and  the  largest  city  in  the  Western 

States,  stands  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Ohio  river,  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Licking 
river,  in  N.  Lat.  .39°  6'  30",  and  west  Long,  from  Washington,  7"  24'  45"  It  is  476  miles  by 
the  river,  from  Pittsburg,  142  above  Louisville,  500  from  Washington  City,  531  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  1517  from  New  Orleans.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley  of  about 
12  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  hills.  This  valley  is  divided  nearly  in  the  center 
by  the  Ohio.  The  first  settlement  was  made  here  on  the  24th  of  December,  1788,  by  a  party 
of  men  sent  out  under  Mattliias  Denman,  Col.  Israel  Ludlow,  and  Robert  Patterson,  to  im- 
prove a  portion  of  the  purchase  made  by  Hon.  John  Clcves  Symmes.  This  purchase  embnaced 
a  tract  of  311,682  acres  in  the  southwest  quarter  of  the  State,  lying  between  the  Great  and 
Little  Miami  rivers.  It  extends  along  the  Ohio  river  a  distance  of  27  miles.  One  square 
mile  in  each  township  was  reserved  for  the  use  of  schools,  audsectioa29  in  each  township 
for  the  support  of  religious  societies. 


e  Mile 


108  THE    OHIO    RIVER. 

The  party  landed  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Liclving,  and  laid  out  a  town  called  Losanti- 
yillo.     This  name  was,  however,  abandoned  in  a   short  time,  and   the    name  of  Cincinnati 

f:iven  to  it.  In  February  1789,  a  party  under  the  irninediate  direction  of  Judge  S^'niines 
anded  at  what  is  now  called  North  liend,  15  miles  below  Cincinnati,  and  there  kid  out 
what  was  intended  to  be  a  large  city,  called  Syrames.  In  March,  a  detachment  of  soldiers 
arrived  attlie  I5end,  to  protect  (he  settlers.  There  now  existed  considerable  rivalry  between 
the  three  places — Columl)ia,  Cincinnati,  and  North  Bend,  as  to  which  would  eventually 
become  the  chief  seat  of  business.  This  rivalry  was  terminated  in  favor  of  Cincinnati,  by 
the  arrival  of  Major  Doughty,  from  Fort  Harmar,  wlio  built  Fort  Waslmujton,  to  which,  the 
troops  from  the  Bend,  were  subsequently  removed.  In  January  1790,  Gen.  Arthur  St  Clair, 
organized  Hamilton  county.  In  the  same  year.  Gen.  llarinar  marched  from  Fort  Washing- 
ton against  the  Indians.  In  the  next  year.  Gen.  St.  Clair  started  from  the  same  place  on  his 
ill-fated  expedition.  On  his  return,  Major  Ziegler  was  appointed  to  the  command  of  the 
Fort,  and,  in  a  short  time  after,  was  succeeded  by  Col.  Wilkinson,  who  was,  in  1794,  suc- 
ceeded by  Capt.  William  Henry  Harrison,  (afterward  President  of  the  United  States,)  who 
retained  it  till  1798. 

In  1792,  the  first  church  was  erected.  Rev.  James  Kemper  was  the  first  pastor  of  it,  and 
Dr.  Joshua  L.  Wilson,  the  second,  who  filled  that  station  upward  of  4U  years,  until  his 
death,  which  took  place  in  1847.  In  1793,  William  Maxwell  established  the  first  paper 
north  of  the  Ohio  river,  at  Cincinnati,  called  the  "  Sentinel  of  the  Nortwestern  Territory." 
On  the  11th  of  January,  1794,  two  keel-boats,  with  bullet-proof  covers  and  port-holes,  and 
provided  with  cannon  and  small  arms,  sailed  from  Cincinnati  to  Pittsburg,  each  making  a 
trip  once  in  four  weeks.     During  this  period  the  town  progressed  but  slowly. 

The  population  in  1795,  was  about  500  ;  in  1800, 750  ;  in  1810,  2540.  From  1800  to  1812, 
it  progessed  pretty  rapidly,  and  considerable  trade  was  carried  on  with  New  Orleans,  in 
keel-boats,  which  returned,  laden  with  foreign  goods.  The  passage  to  New  Orleans,  occu- 
pied 25  days,  and  the  return,  65.  In  1819,  it  was  incorporated  as  a  citv,  and  in  1820,  con- 
tained a  population  of  10,000  ;  in  1830,  24,831  ;  in  1840,46,338  ;  in  1847,  90,000  ;  in  1850, 
115,438  ;  in  18.i6,  200,000  (estimated.) 

Tlie  city  now  occupies  every  portion  of  that  part  of  the  valley  lying  north  of  the  Ohio 
river.  It  is  laid  out  with  considerable  regard  to  regularity  ;  the  streets  in  the  center  of  the 
city  being  broad,  and  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles.  Many  of  the  hills  surround- 
ing the  city  are  adorned  by  stately  and  elegant  mansions,  with  ornamental  grounds  at- 
tached ;  while  some  of  them  are  yet  covered  with  groves  of  ancient  forest  trees. 

In  point  of  commercial  importance,  Cincinnati  occupies  a  front  rank  in  the  West.  By 
means  of  the  numerous  steamers  wliich  are  constantly  plying  to  and  fro  on  the  bosom  of  the 
majestic  river,  which  rolls  gracefully  on  the  south  of  the  city,  and  the  several  canals  and 
railroads  which  center  here,  Cincinnati  is  connected  with  every  available  point  of  import- 
ance in  the  great  and  highly  productive  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  The  trade  is  not,  however, 
confined  to  the  interior  ;  and  a  vast  amount  of  foreign  importation  and  exportation  is  done. 
The  branch  of  business  that  excels  all  others  in  Cincinnati,  is  tiie  pork-business,  which  is 
carried  on  more  e.x^tensively  here  ttian  at  any  other  place  in  the  world.  The  value  of  pork 
annually  exported  from  Cincinnati,  is  estiniated  at  over  $5,500,000. 

Cincinnati  is  the  center  of  many  extensive  railway  lines  ;  the  ones  having  their  termiuii 
here,  are  the  Little  Miami,  connecting  with  many  important  roads  in  various  directions, 
(N.  Y.,  Phila.,  Bait.,  Washington,  Ac.)  The  Cincinnati,  Hamilton,  &,  Dayton,  having, 
also,  many  important  connexions,  east,  north,  and  north-west.  The  Ohio  and  Mississippi, 
•with  its  connexions.  The  Covington  and  Lexington,  with  lines  penetrating  the  southern 
States.  The  Dayton  and  Cincinnati,  (Short  Line,)  with  a  tunnel  some  two  miles  in  length  at 
Cincinnati,  construrJinq.  Many  extensive  lines,  doing  a  vast  amount  of  business,  enter  the 
city  over  these  roads— as  the  Cincinnati  <Sf  Indianapolis;  the  Hamilton,  Eaton  iSf  Richmond; 
the  Cincinnati  &  Chicago;  the  Mad  River  6^  Lake  Erie;  the  Cleveland  ^-  Columbus;  the  Cincin- 
nati, Wilmington   &  Zanesville;  t\u' Cincinnati  &  Mn.riitta;   &c,.  etc. 

Two  Canals  have  their  terminii  here,  also,  the  Miami  Canal,  extending  to  Lake  Erie,  at 
Toledo  ;  and  the  WIdtncater  Canal  penetrating  the  heart  of  Indiana. 

Manufacturing  i.-<  entered  into  here  with  great  energy,  and  employs  avast  amount  of  capital. 
Numerous  mills  nnd  factories  are  in  operation,  besides  foundries,  planing  mills,  saw 
mills,  rolling  mills  flour  mills,  type  foundries,  machine  shops,  distilleries,  Ac,  Ac.  Nearly 
all  kinds  of  machinery  is  driven  by  steam,  and  there  are  now  between  200  and  300  steam 
engines  in  operation  in  the  city.  Steamboat  building  is  an  extensive  and  important  branch 
of  business  here. 

The  Fire  Department  of  Cincinnati  is  second  to  none  in  the  Union  in  point  of  efficiency. 
Steam  fire  engines  are  employed,  chiefly,  and  the  pay  system  adopted,  instead  of  the  old 
plan  of  volunteer  companies. 

The  Public  Buildingsof  Cincinnati  are  numerous,  and  many  of  them  handsome  specimens 
of  architecture.  t     -i,. 

The  Cincinnati  Observatory  was  built  by  public  contribution,  and  is  a  fine,  stone  building 
situated  on  a  beautiful  hill  to  the  east  of"  the  city,  called  Mount  Adams,  in  honor  of  the  late 
ex-presideut,  who  officiated  on  the  occasion  of  laying  the  corner  stone,  on  the  9th  of  Novem- 
ber, 1843.  The  telescope  is  from  the  manufactory  of  Mentz  &  Mahler,  of  Munich.  It  is  an 
excellent  instrument,  of  fine  finish  and  vast  power.     Its  cost  was  $10,000. 


Floyd  Cy.,  la. 


'/'■o/„f 


■u=>^ 


110  THE    OHIO    RIVER. 

The  Mechanics'  Institute  is  a  splendid  building.  It  was  erected  by  voluntary  subscriptions 
of  the  citizens.  The  design  of  the  institution  is  a  noble  one — that  of  improving  the  intel- 
lectual condition  of  tlie  working  man.  Attached  to  tlie  institution  is  a  large  library  and 
reading-room.  An  annual  fair,  for  the  encouragement  of  tlie  mechanical  arts,  is  held  iu  the 
hall  of  the  institute. 

The  Masonic  Halt  is  a  fine  edifice.  It  was  erected  by  the  society  of  Freemasons  of  Cincin- 
nati, and  co<t  $:U),000. 

T/te  Odd  FtUows'  Hall,  is  a  fine,  brick  building,  belonging  to  the  Independent  Order  of 
Odd  Fellows. 

The  Cincinnati  College  Edifice,  is  a  fine  building.  The  front  is  of  a  very  hard,  compact,  grey 
limestone,  and  presents  a  chaste  and  beautiful  appearance.  The  building  is  occupied, 
partly,  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  the  You.ng  Mkn's  Mercantilk  Libk.^ry  Association, 
This  Assoriation  consists  of  about  2500  luembers,  with  a  library  of  20,000  volumes,  besida 
all  tlie  principal  American  and  foreign  periodicals. 

Tlie  Burnet  House,  is  one  of  the  most  spacious  hotels  in  the  United  States.  It  was  built 
by  a  company  of  capitalists  of  this  city,  and  named  in  honor  of  Judge  Burnet,  one  of  the 
early  pioneers  of  the  West.  The  whole  cost  of  the  building,  was  $300,000.  It  contains  342 
rooms,  and  the  furniture  cost  8100,000.  The  dome  is  100  feet  from  the  basement.  Besides 
the  Burnet  House,  there  are  the  Broadway  H<del,  the  Woodruff  House,  the  Winne  House,  the 
Walnut  Street  House,  the  Dennisoii  House,  tlie  United  Statej'  Hotel,  tlie  Gibson  House,  the  Henrit 
House,  the  Waverly  House,  and  the  Spencer  House,  one  of  the  largest  hotels  in  tlie  city. 

The  city  contains  about  100  churches  of  different  denominations,  some  of  them  splendid 
edifices,  and  5  or  6  Sjmagogues. 

The  Hamilton  county  Court  House  is  a  vast  pile,  built  in  the  most  durable  and  substantial 
manner,  and  cost  the  county  over  $1,000,000.  The  front  is  of  a  light  grey,  very  hard,  com- 
pact limestone. 

The  Custom  House,  is  a  noble  structure,  and  an  ornament  to  the  city.  The  material  used 
for  the  outer  walls  is  a  light  colored,  fine  grained  freestone. 

There  are  two  Theaters  here — the  National  and  the  People's. 

The  institutions  of  learning  in  Cincinnati  are  numerous  and  well  sustained.  There  are 
5  medical  colleges,  viz  :  the  Ohio  Medical,  the  Miami  Medical,  the  Eclectic  Medical,  the  Botanico- 
Medical,  and  the  Ohio  College  of  Dental  Surgery.  These  are  all  flourishing  institutions,  and  as 
ably  conducted  as  any  in  the  country. 

The  VVesleyan  Female  College,  St.  Xavier  College,  and  the  VVoodAvard  College,  or  High 
School,  are  well  regulated  institutions,  and  extensively  patronized.  There  are  many  private 
schools  and  seminaries,  which  hold  a  prominent  place  in  the  esteem  of  the  citizens  ;  but 
there  are  none  which  are  looked  on  with  so  much  pride  as  the  Co.mmox  or  District  Schools. 
The  city  is  divided  into  fifteen  school  districts,  each  having  a  school  house  capable  of  accom- 
modating from  500  to  700  pupils.  In  connection  with  the  common  schools,  there  is  a  Central 
High  School,  to  which,  those  scholars  who  have  made  sufficient  advancement  in  the  district 
schools  are  sent.  They  here  have  an  opportunity  of  studying  the  languages  and  the  highest 
branches  of  science.     It  is  designed  to  make  this  school  equal  to  the  best  in  the  country. 

About  5  miles  to  the  north-west  of  the  city  is  Spring  Grove  Ceinetery.  It  is  a  beautiful 
place,  well  laid  out  and  adorned  with  shade  trees  and  shrubbery,  and  comprising  about  250 
acres,  a  large  portion  of  which  is  still  covered  with  native  forest  trees. 

The  Water-works  of  Cincinnati  is  an  object  of  some  interest.  The  water  is  forced,  by 
means  of  powerful  steam  engines,  from  the  river  on  to  a  hill,  about  50  rods  distant,  and  near 
200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lowest  part  of  the  city  ;  it  is  then  conducted,  by  means  of  iron 
pipes,  through  tlie  city  ;  thus  af!"ording  a  full  supply  of  excellent  water  to  every  inhabitant. 

The  city  is  lighted  with  gas  by  the  Cincinnati  Gas  Light  and  Coke  Company. 

The  printing  and  publishing  of  books,  periodicals,  Ac,  is  a  very  important  branch  of 
business  in  Cincinnati.  A  very  large  capital  is  invested  in  it,  and  it  is  carried  on  to  a  much 
greater  extent  than  in  any  other  western  city.  Type  and  Stereotype  founding  are  also  im- 
portant branches  of  business  here,  closely  connected  with  the  printing  and  book  trade. 

In  the  county,  the  cultivation  of  the  grape  is  carried  on  very  extensively. 

Newport,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Ohio  river,  at  the  mouth  of  Licking  river, 
opposite  Cincinnati,  in  Camy)bell  co.,  Ky.  Newport  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population 
and  wealth.  The  town  contains  a  number  of  churches,  several  schools,  a  large  number  of 
Stores,  mills,  factories,  etc.     Population  about  10,(100. 

At  the  mouth  of  Licking  is  an  old  United  States'  recruiting  station,  the  buildings  belong- 
ing to  the  station  were,  some  years  since,  rebuilt  in  a  neat  and  handsome  manner. 

A  steam  ferry  plies  from  Cincinnati  every  few  minutes  in  the  day.  A  beautiful  wire  sus- 
pension bridge,  across  the  Licking,  connects  Newport  with  Covington. 

Licking  River. — This  is  a  very  remarkable  stream,  and  with  but  little 
expen.-e  cfiuld  be  made  of  immense  value  to  the  State.  It  is  usually  from  50  to  100  yards 
wide,  with  high  steep  Ijanks,  and  in  many  places,  even  in  low  water,  is  more  tlian  30  feet 
deep.  The  average  depth  for  GO  miles  above  its  mouth,  during  two-thirds  of  the  year, 
except  on  the  ripples,  will  no  doubt  exceed  6  feet.  It  is  generally  muddy,  witli  but  very 
little  current.  Tlie  shores  are  covered  with  large  forest  trees,  whose  gigantic  limbs  almost 
touch  each  other.    The  State  commenced  some  years  since  to  improve,  by  means  of  locks, 


S'i.!L2.S  ©S*  ©SEi 


m 


112  THE   OHIO  RIVER. 

(a  thing  which  could  easily  be  accomplished,)  the  navigation  of  this  river,  but  the  project 
was  abandoned. 

During  high  water,light  draught  steamboats  can,  without  difficulty,  ascend  50  or  60 
miles.  This  river  rises  in  the  Cumberland  mountains,  Floyd  co.,  Ky.,  and  after  pursuing 
a  north-westerly  course  of  180  miles,  empties  into  the  Ohio  opposite  Cincinnati. 

Covington,  on  the  lower  side  of  the  moutli  of  the  Licking,  in  Kenton  co.,  Ky., 
is  built  on  a  beautiful  plane.  Population  about  15,000.  The  streets  are  laid  out  so  as  to 
appear  from  tlie  hills  back  of  Cincinnati  as  a  continuation  of  that  city.  Covington  is  in  a 
highly  flourishing  condition,  and  bids  fair  to  become  a  very  large  city.  A  steam  ferry  makes 
intercourse  between  it  and  Cincinnati  easy.  It  contains  a  fine  city-hall,  10  or  12  churches, 
a  very  riclily  endowed  theological  college,  belonging  to  the  Baptists,  and  a  large  number  of 
manufactories  of  different  kinds.  Covington  is  the  terminus  of  the  Covington  and  Lexington 
Railroad. 

Industry,  10  miles  below  Cincinnati,  in  Hamilton  co.,  0.,  a  small  village. 
It  contains  a  large  stove  foundry,  owned  by  an  association  of  journeymen  stove-molders 
Population  about  200. 

Claysville,  Ky.,  a  small  place  nearly  opposite  Industry. 

Home  City,  2  miles  below  Industry,  in  the  same  county,  laid  out  for  a  town 
by  an  association  styled  "  The  Cincinnati  Building  Association." 

North  Bend,  4  miles  below,  in  Hamilton  co,  0.,  near  the  mouth   of  the 

Great  Miami  river,  was  the  place  originally  laid  out  by  Judge  Symmes  for  the  great  city  of  the 
west.  All  traces  of  a  town  have  disappeared,  and  it  is  now  noted  as  tlie  former  residence 
and  grave  of  tlie  lamented  President  Harrison.  On  a  beautiful  knoll,  just  below,  his  remains 
are  interred.  A  plain  built  brick  vault  is  erected  over  them,  and  is  visible  for  several  miles 
up  and  down  the  river.  Standing  by  its  side,  the  eye  of  the  observer  takes  in  a  beautiful 
view  of  parts  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Kentucky.  About  30  rods  west  of  it,  is  the  grave  of 
the  Hon.  John  Cleves  Symmes. 

The  Whitewater  Canal  here  passes  through  the  hill  by  a  tunnel  of  about  one-third  of  a 
mile  in  length. 

The  Great  Miami  River  rises  in  Hardin  co.,  0.,  and  after  a  south-west 
cour.se  of  about  100  miles,  empties  into  the  Ohio,  4  miles  below  North  Bend,  at  the  State  line 
between  Indiana  and  Ohio.  The  country  through  which  it  flows  is  highly  cultivated  and 
exceedingly  fertile  ;  it  is  termed  the  "Great  Miami  Bottoms,"  in  contradistinction  to  the 
"  Little  Miami  Bottoms."  There  is  a  great  amount  of  water-power  obtained  from  this  stream, 
which  renders  it  of  immense   importance  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  region  through  which  it 

e asses.     Several  important  towns  are  situated  on  the  banks  of  this  river  ;  among  which  are 
Hamilton,  Dayton,  Troy,  and  Piqua.     It  is  not  navigable. 

Lawrenceburg',  county  seat  of  Dearborn  co.,  la.,  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Great  Miami,  is  a  flourishing  business  place.  Population  about  5000.  That  part  of  the 
town  near  the  river,  being  low,  is  liable  to  inundations  hyjloods  in  the  Ohio.  It  contains  a 
courthouse,  6  churches,  an  extensive  distillery,  8  mills,  a  carding  machine,  and  3  printing 
offices.  The  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad,  the  Cincinnati  and  Indianapolis  Railroad,  and 
the  Whitewater  Canal  pass  through  the  town,  the  latter  furnishing  extensive  water-power. 

Petersburg,  2  miles  below,  in  Boone  co.,  Kj.,  is  a  small  village.  Popula- 
tion 250.  Many  curious  remains  of  an  ancient  race  have  been  found  here,  in  digging  wells 
and  cellars.  Near  the  town,  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  fortification,  evidently  the  work 
of  a  more  civilized  people  than  our  North  American  Indians  appear  to  have  been. 

Aurora,  at  the  mouth  of  Hogan  creek,  2  miles  below,  in  Dearborn  co.,  la.,  is  a 

flourishing  place.  It  was  laid  out  in  1819,  and  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1848.  A  large  pork 
business  is  done  here,  besides  distillin?  and  various  other  branches  of  business.  Popu- 
lation 2.500.     The  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad  passes  through  Aurora. 

Belleview,  6  miles  below,  in  Boone  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  small  village. 

Rising  Sun,  county  seat  of  Ohio  co.,  la.,  3  miles  below,  is  a  flourishing  town. 
It  contains  a  court-house,  3  churches,  3  mills,  a  large  cotton  and  woolen  factory,  an  exten- 
sive distillery,  2  printing  offices,  and  a  population  of  about  2300. 

Millersburg,  la.,  3  miles  below,  in  same  county,  a  landing  point  for  several 
of  the  interior  counties. 

Big  Bone  Lick  Creek,  9  miles  below,  in  Boone  co.,  Ky.,  about  2  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  this  creek  is  the  place  celebrated  as  the  Big  Bone  Lick  Springs.  The 
water  is  impregnated  with  sulphur  and  salt,  and  the  place  derives  its  name  from  the  immense 
number  of  bones  of  the  Mastodon,  or  Mammoth,  and  the  Arctic  Elephant,  formerly  found 
•cattered  all  over  the  surface  of  the  earth,  here. 

Hamilton,  a  small  village,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Big  Bone  Lick  creek,  in 
game  co.    Populatioa  about  200. 


^-oventecTfA 


1^_  Indin"  Cr. 


Harrison  Cy 
I  Indian  Cr. 


Hancock  Cy 


»♦•    HatastmUt 


114  THE   OHIO  RIVER. 

Patriot,  2  miles  below,  ia  Switzerland  co.,  la.     Population  about  600. 
Warsaw,  11  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Gallatin  co.,  Ky.,and  was  for. 

merly  known  as  Fredericksburg.  It  contains  a  court-house  and  county  buildings, 2 churches, 
3  schools,  1  printing  office,  2  pork-houses,  1  tobacco  factory,  1  flouring  mill,  and  a  distillery. 
Population  about  1000.  This  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  exports  large  quantities 
of  corn,  tobacco,  and  various  other  kinds  of  produce.  The  surrounding  country  is  hilly  but 
very  productive — raising  line  crops  of  corn,  wheat,  and  tobacco.  It  also  abounds  in  fine  timber 

New  York,  sometimes  called  Florence,  1  mile  below,  in  Switzerland  co.,  la., 
is  a  small  village.     Population  about  200. 

Vevay,  10  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Switzerland  co.,  la.  Population 
about  2000.  It  was  settled  in  1801,  by  a  number  of  Swiss  families,  to  whom  Congress  made 
a  favorable  grant  of  land  for  the  purpose  of  commencing  the  cultivation  of  the  grape.  Th« 
grape  found  to  succeed  best  is  the  Cape  grape,  from  which  a  considerable  quantity  of  wine, 
resembling  claret,  is  made. 

Ghent,  opposite  Vevay,  in  Carroll  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  handsome  village.  Population 
about  .350. 

Carrollton,  formerly  called  Port  William,  10  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kentucky  river,  is  the  county  seat  of  Carroll  co.,  Ky.  This  point  was  first  settled  by  a  Mr. 
Elliot,  in  1784.  In  March,  1785,  his  house  was  attacked  by  a  body  of  Indians  and  burned, 
and  himself  killed.  In  1786,  Capt.  Ellison  erected  a  block-house,  but  was  driven  from  it  by 
the  Indians.  In  1789,  Gen.  Charles  Scott,  erected  a  block-house,  and  fortified  it  by  pickets. 
It  was  occupied  until  1792  when  the  present  town  was  laid  out. 

Carrollton  contains  a  court-house  and  public  buildings,  1  academy,  3  churches,  2  corn 
mills,  1  steam  saw  mill,  1  carding  factory,  1  rope-walk,  and  apopulation  of  1000. 

Kentucky  River,     {See  j^ age  125.) 

Preston,  a  small  village,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kentucky  river,  named 
in  honor  of  Col.  Preston,  of  Virginia.     Population  about  150. 

Madison,  county  seat  of  Jefferson  co.,  la.,  10  miles  below,  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  important  commercial  cities  in  the  State.  It  is  beautifully  located  in  a  valley, 
about  throe-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width  an'd  3  miles  in  length,  lying  in  a  bend  of  the  river,  and 
eurrounded  by  steep  and  rugged  hills,  from  4  to  500  feet  in  height.  The  principal  part  of 
the  city  is  situated  more  than  30  feet  above  the  highest  floods  of  the  Ohio  river. 

The  trade  of  Madison  is  quite  extensive,  and  the  manufactures  are  very  important.  The 
principal  part  of  the  trade  of  the  city  is  in  wheat  and  pork,  those  articles  being  the  chief 
products  of  the  State.  Population  about  12,000.  There  is  a  fii\c  hotel  here,  built  at  a  cost  of 
$30,000.  The  other  buildings  of  note  in  the  city,  are  the  court-house,  jail,  and  county  offices, 
2  market-houses,  a  bank,  2  schools,  and  about  15  churches.  Several  of  these  buildings  are 
handsome  and  costly  edifices.  Madison  contains  several  mills  of  various  kinds,  founderies, 
factories,  and  a  large  number  of  stores,  many  of  which  are  wholesale  houses,  and  do  an  ex- 
tensive business.     The  Madison  and  Indianapolis  R.  R.,  completed  in  1849,  terminates  here. 

Indianapolis,  capital  of  the  State  of  Indiana,  and  scat  of  justice  for  Marion 
county,  is  situated  on  the  West  Fork  of  White  river.  It  lies  on  a  beautiful  plain,  nearly  in 
the  center  of  the  county  108  miles  N.  W.  from  Cincinnati,  and 86  from  Madison.  The  city 
■was  laid  out  in  1820.     Population  now  about  15,000. 

Milton,  Trimble  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  small  village  nearly  opposite  Madison.  Pop.  150. 

Hanover  Landing,  G  miles  below  Madison,  in  Jefferson  co.,Ia.  South  Han- 
over is  a  few  miles  in  the  interior.  The  town  Avas  first  settled  in  1810,  and  now  contains 
about  600  inhabitants.  South  Hanover  College,  established  in  1820,  by-Rev.  J.  F.  Crowe, 
D.D.,  and  the  Hon  W.  Dunn,  is  a  literary  institution  of  the  highest  order.  ^_ 

New  London,  6  miles  below,  in  the  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Bethlehem,  6  miles  below,  in  Clark  co.,  la.,  is  a  small  town,  containing  a 

church,  several  stores,  and  about  300  inhabitants. 

Westport,  in  Oldhatu  co.,  Ky.,  6  miles  below.     Population  about  300. 

Charleston  Landing,  Clark  co.,  la.,  12  miles  below,  is  the  landing  pointfoi 
(he  town  of  Charleston,  2^4  miles  from  the  river. 

Utica,  5  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  a  small  village.  Populatiun  350. 
The  article  known  as  "Louisville  Lime,"  ip  manufactured  here  in  large  quantities. 

Jeffersonville,  9  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  nearly  opposite  Louisville, 
with  which,  it  is  in  constant  communication  by  means  of  steam  ferry  boats.  Population 
about  3500.  The  Indiana  State  Penitentiary  is  located  here.  It  is  a  fine,  large  building. 
The  terminus  of  the  Jeffersonville  &  Columbus  Railroad,  connecting  with  the  Ohio  &  Mis- 
sissippi R.  R.  at  Seymour,  la.,  and  the  Madison  <fe  Indianapolis,  R.  R.  at  Columbus,  la.,  \^  at 
this  point.     The  river  is  here  over  a  mile  wide. 


,Lewi8P°^ 


IW  ^'  ^""'caiw  L       ^^* 


116 


THE     OHIO   RIVER. 


LonisTille,  1  mile  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Jefferson  co.,  Ky      It  is 

situated  at  the  head  of  the 
Falls  of  the  Ohio,  G18  miles 
from  Pittsburf;:,  and  1376 
from  New  Orleans.  It  was 
laid  off  by  Capt.  Tliomas  Bul- 
litt, of  Va.,  in  August,  1773, 
but  no  settlement  was  made 
until  1778,  when  a  small 
party  arrived  here,  with 
George  llosrers  Clark,  and 
settled  on  wliat  is  now  called 
Corn  Island, close  to  the  Ken- 
tucky shore.  After  the  posts  occupied  by  the  British  on  the  "Wabash  had  b'een  taken  by  Gen. 
Clark,  they  removed  to  the  spot  on  which  Louisville  now  stands,  in  the  fall  of  the  same 
year.  They  built  a  block-house  here,  which  was  subsequently  removed  and  a  large  fort 
erected  in  1782,  called  Fort  Nelson.  In  1780,  the  town  was  established  by  an  act  of  the 
Legislature  of  Virginia,  under  whose  jurisdiction  Kentucky  then  was.  At  this  time,  the 
population  was  only  30.  In  1800,  it  was  600;  in  1810.  1300;  in  1820  4,000;  in  1830, 
10,090;  in  1840,  21,000;  in  1843,  28,000;  in  1845,  32,000;  in  1850,  43,217;  in  1856, 
(estimated)  60,000.  It  is  now  the  most  important  commercial  city  in  Kentucky,  and  one 
of  tlie  most  important  in  the  "West.  It  is  built  on  a  spacious  sloping  plane,  70  feet  above 
low  water  mark.  The  streets  are  broad  and  beautiful,  and  laid  out  at  right  angles  with 
each  other.  It  contains  a  city-hall  and  court  house,  a  medical  institute  and  university, 
two  hospitals,  an  asylum  for  the  blind,  30  churches,  28  schools,  two  orphan  asylums,  a 
workhouse,  and  a  large  number  of  religious,  literary,  and  benevolent  institutions.  There 
are  4  daily,  4  tri-weekly,  and  10  weekly  newspapers,  1  monthly,  and  1  quarterly  periodical 
published  here.  There  are,  also,  a  large  number  of  foundries,  rolling  mills,  flouring  mills, 
and  factories  of  different  kinds,  all  in  successful  operation.  The  pncki)ig  of  pork  forms  a  large 
}tem  of  the  business  of  the  city.  Louisville  is  the  terminus  of  the  Louisville  and  Le.x.  R.  R. 
The  falls  of  the  river  just  below  Louisville,  obstruct  navigation  entirely  at  low  stages  of 
water.  The  descent  is  23  feet  in  2  miles.  To  obviate  this,  a  canal  was  cut  around  tliem, 
to  Shippingsport,  a  distance  of  2};^  miles.  It  was  a  work  of  stupendous  labor,  being  cut,  a 
greater  part  of  its  length,  through  solid  rock.  It  is,  in  some  places,  40  feet  deep,  and  ot 
sufficient  width  to  pass  steamboats  through,  and  affords  fine  water-power  for  the  mill-seats 
below  the  locks. 

On  the  24th  of  September,  1816,  the  steamboat  "^""ashington.  under  the  command  of  Capt. 
Shreve,  made  the  first  voyage  ever  made  by  a  steam  vessel  from  Louisville  to  New  Orleans. 
On  the  3d  of  March,  1817,  she  started  on  another  trip,  and  made  the  time  to  New  Orleans 
and  back  in  41  days;  the  ascending  voyage  being  made  in  25  days.  A  public  dinner  was 
given  to  the  Captain  by  the  citizens  of  "Louisville,  at  which  he  predicted  that  the  day  was 
not  far  distant  when  the  trip  would  be  made  in  10  days.  It  has  since  been  made  in  less  than 
5  days. 

Shippingsport,  2  miles  below  Louisville,  in  same  county,  at  the  foot  of  the 

canal,  is  a  small  village.     Population  about  200. 

Portland,  1  mile  below,  in  same  county,  is  a  place  of  importance.  Large 
steamers  generally  make  it  a  stopping  place,  not  being  able  to  get  through  the  canal.  There 
is  a  Railroad  between  Portland  and  Louisville,  the  cars  running  every  10  or  15  minutes  during 
the  day.  It  is  connected  with  New  Albany,  on  the  opposite  side,  by  a  ferry  boat,  which 
plies  almost  constantly.  Portland  contains  a  number  of  very  good  buildings.  Population 
about  700. 

New  Albany,  county  seat  of  Floyd  co.,  la.,  opposite  Portland,  is  one  of  themosk 
important  towns  in  the  Stat'o.  It  was  laid  out  in  the  year  1813,  by  3  brothers  of  the  name 
of  Scribner.  It  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  New  Albany  &  Salem  R.  R.,  connecting  the 
Ohio  river  with  Lake  Michigan,  at  Michigan  city;  and  crossing  and  intersecting  the  numer- 
ous roads  passing  through  Indiana. 

The  business  of  steamboat  building  is  carried  on  here  to  a  greater  extent  than  any  other 
olaco  in  tlie  State.     Other  branches  of  mechanics  are  also  in  a  flourishing  condition. 

in  1830,  the  population  of  New  Albany  was  2,000  ;  in  1840,  4,225  ;  in  1850,  9,785 ;  1856 
estimated)  14,001). 

Bridgeport,  Harrison  co.,  la.,  9  miles  below,  is  a  thriving  village,  boat  build- 
ing is  carried  on  here  to  a  considerable  extent.     Population  about  200. 

Blakesville.  6  miles  below,  in  same  county,  is  a  small  village. 

S  alt  Hi  ver ,  4  miles  below,  rises  in  Boyle  co.,  Ky.,and,  pursuing  a  north  westerly 
course  of  200  milf.'s,  empties  into  the  Ohio  at  the  line  between  Jefferson  and  Hardin  counties. 
Its  mouth  is  200  yards  wide.  It  derived  its  name  from  the  numerous  salt  licks  along  its 
banks.     The  district  of  country  through  which  Salt  river  runs,  comprises  some  of  the  most 


118  THE    OHIO    RIVER. 

fertile  lands  in  the  State.    It  is  navigable  for  flat-bottom  boats,  for  a  distance  of  150  milea 
durinfj  lii"rh  -water. 

West  Point,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Salt  river,  in  Hardin  county,  is  a  thriving 
village.     Population  about  250.     It  has  an  extensive  boat-yard. 

Brandenburg,  18  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Meade  co.,  Ky.  It  is  built 
on  a  high  blutf,  and  contains  a  court-house,  2  churches,  and  2  flouring  mills.  Considerable 
quantities  of  corn  and  tobacco  are  shipped  from  this  place.     Population  700. 

Manckport,  3  miles  below,  a  small  village  in  Harrison  co.,  la. 

Northampton,  7  miles  below,  a  small  village  in  the  same  county. 

Amsterdam,  3  miles  below,  a  small  village  in  the  same  county. 

Blue  River,  a  small  stream  rises  in  Washington  co.,  la.,  and  flows  in  a  southerly 
direction  for  about  75  miles,  and  empties  into  the  Ohio  6  miles  below  Amsterdam. 

Leavenworth,  2  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Crawford  co.,  la.,  at  the  Horse- 
shoe bend.  It  is  a  thriving  town,  and  well  located  for  business  ;  being  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  coal  regioii  in  Indiana.  Leavenworth  has  2  churches,  1  printing  oiBce,  and  a 
population  of  about  800. 

Fredonia,  5  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  situated  on  high  a  bluff.     Pop.  300. 

Little  Blue  River,  rises  in  Crawford  co.,  and  empties  into  the  Ohio  at  the 
line  between  Crawford  and  Perry  counties,  la.     Its  length  is  about  45  miles. 

Alton,  13  miles  below  Fredonia,  at  the  mouth  of  Little  Blue  river,  in  Perry 
•o.,  la.,  is  a  small  village.     Population,  100. 

Concordia,  10  miles  below,  in  Meade  co.,  Ky.,  is  pleasantly  situated.  Popu- 
lation about  100.  The  hills  in  this  neighborhood  abound  in  beds  of  limestone  rock,  from 
which  immense  quantities  of  lime  are  made. 

Rome,  county  seat  of  Perry  co.,  la.,  12  miles  below,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
Sinking  creek.  It  was  settled  in  1811,  and  now  contains  a  court-house,  jail,  county  seminary, 
3  churches,  and  about  650  inhabitants. 

Stephensport,  opposite  Komc,  in  Breckenridge  co.,  Ky.,  at  the  mouth  of 
Sinking  creek,  is  a  pleasant  little  village,  containing  2  churches,  several  stores,  and  a  popu- 
lation of  about  250.     It  was  established  in  1825. 

Sinking  Creek  rises  in  the  upper  part  of  Breckenridge  co.,  Ky.,  and  is  a 
considerable  stream,  supplying  abundance  of  water-power  for  mills  during  the  whole  year. 
6  or  7  miles  from  its  source,  the  creek  suddenly  sinks  beneath  the  earth,  showing  no  trace 
of  its  existence,  for  5  or  6  miles,  when  it  re-appears  above  ground  and  flows  into  the  Ohio. 
On  this  creek  is  to  be  seen  a  natural  rock  mill-dam,  8  feet  high  and  40  feet  wide,  which 
answers  all  the  purposes  of  a  dam  to  a  mill  which  has  been  erected  at  the  place.  Near  the 
creek  is  a  large  cave,  called  Penitentiary  cave,  which  has  never  been  fully  explored. 

Cloverport,  10  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  an  important  point  for 
shipping  tobacco  and  other  produce,  of  which  fine  crops  are  grown  in  the  county.  Popu- 
lation about  800.  There  are  extensive  beds  of  fine  coal  in  its  vicinity.  4  miles  in  tha 
interior  are  the  White  Sulphur,  Breckenridge,  and  Tar  Springs. 

Tobinsport,  Perry  co.,  la.,  is  a  small  village  opposite  Cloverport. 

Hawesville,  14  miles  below,  the  county  seat  of  Hancock  co.,  Ky.  Popu- 
lation about  600.     It  derives  considerable  trade  from  its  extensive  mines  of  coal. 

Cannalton,  opposite  Hawesville,  in  Perry  co.,  la.,  is  a  flourishing  town,  the 
largest  in  the  county.  It  contains  several  churches  and  elegant  residences,  and  a  large 
cotton  factory,  which  employs  several  hundred  hands.  Population  about  2500.  This 
building  presents  a  splendid  appearance  from  the  river,  it  is  300  feet  long  and  4  stories 
high,  built  of  variegated  sandstone.  Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  found  in  the  adjoining 
hills,  giving  the  place  great  advantages  for  a  manufacturing  town.  Fire-clay  and  a  fine 
sand-stone  for  building  purposes  are  found  here  in  abundance. 

Troy,  6  miles  below,  near  the  mouth  of  Anderson  river,  in  the  same  county,  ia 
a  thriving  village,  and  has  the  trade  of  the  rich  mineral  district  in  the  rear  and  along  the 
margin  of  this  section  of  the  great  coal  field.     Population  about  600. 

Anderson  River,  rises  in  Crawford  co.,  Ia.,  and  flows  in  a  southerly  direction 
and  empties  into  the  Ohio  near  Troy.  It  is  navigable  for  flat-boats  about  30  miles  in  high  water, 

Maxville,  1  mile  below,  at  the  lower  side  of  the  mouth  of  x\nderson  river, 
in  Spencer  co.,  Ia.,  is  a  small  village.     Population  about  200. 

Batesville,  2  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  a  small  village.  Pop.  200. 

Lev^isport,  3  miles  below,  in  Hancock  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  small  village,  extending 
for  some  distance  along  the  banks  of  the  river.    Population  300. 


120  THE   OHIO    RIVER. 

Rockport,  seat  of  justice  for  Spencer  co.,  la.,  13  miles  below,  situated  on  a 
high  bluff.  Population  about  600.  Its  name  is  derived  from  a  hanging  rock,  known  by 
the  name  of  "  Lady  Washington's  Rock  ;"  it  is  a  sandstone  formation,  and  rises  to  the  height 
of  about  30  feet  above  the  general  level  of  the  river. 

Owensburgh,  9  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Daviess  co.,  Ky.     It  is  a 

a  very  handsome  place,  situated  in  a  fertile   region,  abounding  in   minerals.     It  contains  a 
court-house,  4  churches,  an  academy,  a  bank,  and  a  population  of  about  1700. 

Bon  Harbor,  3  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  athriving  village.  Popu- 
ulation  about  300.  There  is  an  eddy  formed  by  a  bar  in  the  river  at  this  place,  which  causes 
an  excellent  harbor  for  boats.  It  is  from  this  circumstance  that  the  name  of  the  place  is 
derived.  In  the  vicinity  are  fine  beds  of  coal,  which  render  facilities  for  manufacturing  to  a 
large  and  extensive  cotton  and  woolen  establishment. 

Enterprise,  3  miles  below,  a  small  village  in  Spencer  co.,  la.  Population 
200.     The  country  adjacent  is  a  rich  bottom  heavily  timbered. 

Point  Isabel,  1  mile  below,  a  small  village,  in  the  same  county,  at  the 
head  of  French  island. 

Newburg,  13  miles  below,  in  Warwick  co.,  la.,  is  a  finely  located  and  thriving 
town.  It  was  laid  out  in  1817,  by  Michael  Sprinkle,  and  was  at  first  called  Sprinklesburg. 
Population  500. 

Green  River,  6  miles  below,  rises  in  Lincoln  co.,  Ky.,  and  takes  a  westerly 
course,  until  having  received  the  Big  Barren  river  on  the  south,  it  turns  to  the  north-west. 
The  current  is  gentle,  and  the  water  generally  deep.  It  is  made  navigable  by  means  of 
locks  and  dams.  Steamboats  ascend  to  Bowling  Green,  on  the  Big  Barren  river,  20  miles 
below  the  Mammoth  Cave,  and,  during  a  great  part  of  the  year,  to  the  cave,  on  Green  river, 
a  distance  of  165  miles,  bringing  down  large  quantities  of  corn,  tobacco,  and  other  produce. 
Brownsville,  capital  of  Ednioudson  co.,  Ky.,  is  situated  on  Green  river  about  10  miles  below 
the  Mammoth  Cave.  Morgantown,  capital  of  Butler  co.,  Ky.,  on  Green  river,  below  the 
iunction  of  Big  Barren.     Lewisburg,  below,  in  Muhlenburg  co.,  Ky. 

The  Mammoth  Cave,  is  situated  in  Edmonson  co.,  Ky.,  equi-distant  from 
the  cities  of  Louisville  and  Nashville  (about  90  miles  from  each,)  and  immediately  on 
the  nearest  road  between  those  two  places.  It  is  within  half  a  mile  of  Green  river.  The 
cave  has  already  been  explored  for  more  than  18  miles.  It  contains  226  avenues,  47  domes, 
8  cataracts,  several  rivers,  and  23  pits,  most  of  them  of  surprising  beauty  and  startling 
grandeur.  The  cave  is  dry,  and  exceedingly  conducive  to  health.  It  is  visited  by  many  in- 
valids, for  the  purpose  of  inhaling  its  air  ;  and,  in  many  instances,  proves  highly  beneficial. 

Evansville,  9  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Green  river,  is  the  county  seat  of 
Vanderburg  co.,  la.  It  was  laid  out  in  1816,  and  received  its  name  in  honor  of  Gen.  R.  M 
Evans,  who  was  one  of  the  early  settlers  of  the  place.  It  is  situated  on  an  elevated  bank. 
The  trade  of  Evansville  is  considerable,  and  rapidly  increasing.  The  Wabash  &  Erie 
Canal,  terminates  at  this  place.  The  Evansville  &  Terre  Haute  Railroad,  via  Vincenues, 
has  its  terminus  here — bringing  Evansville  in  connection  with  many  points  by  the  intersec- 
tion of  other  roads.  A  very  large  amount  of  produce  is  annually  shipped  from  this  point — 
corn,  oats,  hay,  pork,  <fec.,  ic.  Evansville  contains  a  court-house,  jail,  9  or  10  churches,  6 
printing  offices,  and  a   large  number  of  business  houses,  tfcc.     Population  about  9000. 

Verona,  7  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  a  small  village. 

Henderson,  5  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Henderson  co.,  Ky.  It  is 
a  flourishing  place,  and  the  principle  shipping  port  for  the  produce  of  the  country  bordering 
on  Green  river,  exporting  large  quantities  of  tobacco,  corn,  <fec.  It  contains  a  court-house, 
£  churches,  4  schools,  5  large  tobacco  factories,  and  a  population  of  about  2000.  The  country 
adjacent  is  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco  and  corn.  Iron  ore  is  also  found  in  it, 
iind  large  beds  of  stone  coal,  of  an  excellent  quality.  About  75,000  bushels  of  corn,  and 
7,000,000  lbs.  of  tobacco  arc  annually  exported  from  it. 

West  Franklin,  14  miles  below,  in  Posey  co.,  la.,  is  a  small  village. 

Mount  Vernon,  county  seat  of  Posey  co.,  la.,  V2  miles  below,  on  a  fine  bluff. 
It  was  settled  in  1803,  and  contains  a  court-house,  jail,  and  county  offices,  3  churclies,  and 
about  1600  inhabitants.     A  plank  road  extends  to  New  Harmony  on  the  Wabash  river. 

XTniontown,  10  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  Highland  creek,  in  Union  co., 
Ky.,  is  a  thriving  town,  shipping  largo  quantities  of  corn  to  the  southern  markets.  Popu- 
lation about  500.  The  country  is  very  fertile.  A  few  miles  from  Uniontown,  on  Highland 
creek  is  a  fine  Tar  spring.  There  are  a  number  of  curiosities  in  this  county,  worthy  of 
observation.  One  is  a  large  flat  rock,  with  perfect  resemblance  of  the  naked  feet  of  men, 
and -animals  deeply  imprinted  in  it.  There  is  also  a  cavern,  which  is  thought  to  be  of 
great  extent,  but  has  not  yet  been  fully  explored. 

Wabash  River  enters  the  Ohio  5  miles  below  Uniontown.  (  Seepage  125.) 


Golcondal 


122  THE  OHIO  RIVER. 

Raleigh,  0  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash,  in  Union  co.,  Ky. 
Shawneetown,  5  miles  below,  in  Gallatin  co.,  111.,  on  a  low  bank  of  the  Ohio. 

It  is  liable  to  inundations  from  the  river.  It  is,  however,  a  place  of  considerable  business, 
and  the  largest  town  in  southern  Illinois.  It  was  laid  out  in  1814,  and  now  contains  3 
churches,  a  land  office,  and  a   population  of  2000. 

Caseyville,  10  miles  below,  in  Union  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  small  village  containing  a 
population  of  '2'M.  About  3  miles  from  Caseyville,  may  be  seen  a  natural  curiosity,  termed 
the  A.sviL  Rock.  It  is  a  large  rock,  some  50  feel  high,  20  feet  wide,  and  2  feet  tiiick,  aud 
bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  a  blacksmith's  anvil.  This  rock  stands  upon  level  bottom 
land,  and  is  entirely  isolated. 

Battery  Rock,  2   miles  below,  in  Gallatin  co.,  111.,  is  a  high,   rocky  bluff, 

extending   some  miles  along  the  river,  giving  a    picturesque  appearance    to  the  scenery. 

Cave-in-rock,  12  miles  below,  in  Hardin  co.,  HI.,  is  a  noted  place,  and  viewed 

■with  interest  by  all  travelers  on  this  river.  It  was  the  rendezvous,  about  1801,  of  a  cel- 
ebrated outlaw,  by  the  name  of  Mason,  and  his  comrades,  who  subsisted  by  plundering  the 
flat-boats  and  arks,  descending  the  river  with  produce,  or  waylaying  the  traders  on  their 
return  with  the  products  of  their  sales — robbing  and  murdering  them.  They  continued  this 
nefarious  business  for  several  years,  until  their  depredations  became  so  alarming,  that  the 
Governor  of  Mississippi  offered  a  reward  of  $500  for  Mason's  head.  Mason  was  shot,  aud 
his  head  carried  to  Washington,  then  the  capital  of  Mississippi,  by  one  of  his  own  band 
named  Harpe,  a  notorious  outlaw,  who  had  escaped  from  Kentucky. 

Elizabethtown,  county  seat  of, Hardin  co..  111.,  6  miles  below,  at  the  foot  of 
Hurricane  Island.     Population  about  200. 

Golconda,  2.3  miles  below,  is  the  county  seat  of  Pope  co.,  111.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  on  an  elevated  plain,  and  contains  a  court-house,  and  population  of  about  250. 

Cumberland  River,  enters  the  Ohio,  15  miles  below.      {See  paye  127.) 

Smithland,  county  scat  of  Livingston  co.,  Ky.,  just  below  the  mouth  of  Cum- 
berland river.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  commercial  importance,  being  favorably  situated 
for  reshipping  goods  to  and  from  the  interior  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  Smithland  con- 
tains a  court-house,  jail,  and  county  offices,  2  churches,  1  foundry  aud  machine  shop,  a  boat- 
yard, an  extensive  tannery,  and  a  population  of  1500. 

Tennessee  River,  enters  the  Ohio,  12  miles  below  Smithland.  {See  page  128.) 

Paducah,  county  seat  of  McCracken  co.,  Ky.,  just  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Tennessee,  was  laid  out  in  1827,  and  received  its  name  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  Indian 
chief,  Paducah.  It  is  the  depot  for  the  vast  and  growing  trade  of  the  Tennessee  river.  It 
contains  4  churches,  a  court-house,  a  fine  hotel,  and  a  population  of  3000. 

Belgrade,  8  miles  below,  in  Massac  co.,  III.,  is  a  small  village. 

Fort  Massac,  2  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  the  spot  the  troops  occu 
pied,  who  were  sent  to  intercept  the  plans  of  Aauox  Bueu.     The  fort  was  burned  many- 
years  ago,  and  nothing  is  to  be  seen  now  to  mark  the  spot. 

Metropolis,  county  seat  of  Massac  co..  111.,  1  mile  below.     Pop.  about  700. 
Hillaman,  8  miles  below,  in  the  same  county. 

Wilkinsonville,  7  miles  below,  in  Alexander  co..  Ill,  is  a  small  village, 
named  in  honor  of  General  Wilkinson. 

Caledonia,   10  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Pulaski  co.,  is  a  small  village. 
America,   3  miles  below,  in  the  same  county. 

Emporium,  formerly  Mound  Ciiy,  3  miles  below,  in  same  county,  above  the 
mouth  of  Cache  river,  is  an  eiiterprising  tfiwn,  and  landing  point  for  steamers,  connected  with 
the  111.  Central  R.  Road  by  a  road  3  miles  in  length. 

Cairo,  G  miles  below,  in  Alexand-r  co.,Ill.,at  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi  rivers,  has  acquired  considerable  celebrity  by  the  repeated  attempts  which  have 
been  made,  to  build  up  a  large  city  on  its  site.  Situated,  as  it  is.  at  the  junction  ot  these 
two  mightv  rivers,  it.  undoubtedly,  presents  one  of  the  finest  points  for  a  city  which  can  be 
found  in  the  West ;  being  placed  so  as  to  command  the  immense  and  incalculable  trade  of 
the  whole  west,  north-west  and  south.  But  there  are  difficulties  to  be  surmounted,  in  the 
location  of  the  ground,  and  the  surrounding  country,  which  will  take  an  immense  amount 
of  capital  and  labor.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  here  very  low,  and  the  surrounding 
country  is  still  lower.  Both  are  subject  to  overflow,  and  from  the  marshy  nature  ot  the  soil 
are  generated  miasms,  which  render  it  very  uniiealthy.  But,  by  a  scientific  system  of 
embankment,  filling  up,  and  draining,  all  this  may  be  overcome.  A  levee  has  been  thrown 
up,  at  a  cost  of  about  .$1,000,000,  which  protects  it  to  a  great  decree. 

The  Great  Illinois  Central  Railroad  has  a  terminus  here,  and  extensive  depot  buddings. 


%..    I 


124  MUSKINGUM  RIVER— SCIOTO   RIVER. 

THE   MUSKINGUM   RIVER 

Is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Tuscarawas  and  Wallioundiiig  rivers  at  Coshocton,  0.  It 
is  the  largest  river,  lying  wholly  in  the  State,  and  has  been  made  navigable  by  means  of 
dams  and  locks,  and  short  canals,  to  Dresden,  about  96  miles  from  Marietta.  The  numerous 
falls  of  the  Muskingum  afiford  water-power  to  almost  any  extent,  and  most  excellent  advan- 
tages for  manufacturing. 

Coshocton  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Muskingum  river,  113  miles 
from  Marietta,  and  is  the  county  seat  of  Coshocton  co.,  0.  It  was  laid  out  in  1802,  and 
called  Tuscawara,  whicli  name  it  retained  until  1811,  when  it  received  its  present  appella- 
tion. It  contains  4  churches,  y  newspaper  offices,  a  flour  mill,  and  woolen  factory,  and  a 
population  of  1000.  When  the  river  is  very  high,  steamboats  occasionally  ascend  as  high  as 
this  point.  The  Ohio  Canal  passes  through  Coshocton,  also  the  Steubenville  <fe  Indiana  R.  R. 

Dresden,  17  miles  below,  iu  Muskingum  co.,  is  a  flourishing  and  active 
business  place,  well  supplied  with  water-power.  Coal  and  iron  ore  abound  in  the  vicinity. 
Population  about  1500. 

Zanesville,  16  miles  below,  and  80  miles  from  Marietta,  is  the  county  seat 
of  Muskingum  co.,  and  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  Ohio.  It  is  connected  with  Putnam, 
West  Zanesville  and  South  Zanesville  by  bridges.  The  town  was  laid  out  in  1799,  by 
Ebenezer  Zane,  and  John  Mclntire,  and  was  first  called  Westburn,  which  name  it  bore  until 
the  establishmentof  a  post-office,  when  it  received  its  present  name.  Population  about  12,000. 

Zanesville  affords  superior  advantages  for  manufactories  of  all  kinds.  The  fine  water- 
power,  abundance  of  bituminous  coal  in  its  vicinity,  and  its  great  facilities  for  transporlatioa 
and  exportation — being  tlie  terminus  of  the  Wilmington  &  Zanesville  Railroad,  extending 
to  Cincinnati ;  the  Central  Ohio  Railroad  passing  through  it,  also  the  National  Road  ;  the 
Muskingum,  opening  immediate  intercourse  with  the  Ohio  and  all  the  southern  countries  ; 
the  Ohio  Canal,  reaching  to  the  Lakes  ou  the  north,  and  soutli  through  the  finest  portions 
of  the  State,  all  seem  to  mark  it  out  as  one  of  the  finest  positions  iu  the  west  for  manufac- 
turing purposes.  The  water  of  the  river  is  distributed  through  the  city  from  a  large  reservoir, 
on  a  hill  lliO  feet  high.     The  water  is  forced  up  by  means  of  a  powerful  force  pump. 

Duncan's  Falls,  9  miles  below,  in  Muskingum  co.     Population  about  300. 

Taylorsville,  just  below,  on  the  opposite  (west)  side  of  the  river,  in  same 
CO.  A  dam  across  the  river  here  gives  the  place  advantages  of  large  water-power,  and  a 
number  of  mills  are  in  successful  operation.     Population  about  1000. 

Eagleport,  11  miles  below,  in  Morgan  county. 

McConnellsville,  10  miles  below,  a  thriving  town  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river,  is  the  county  seat  of  Morgan  co.  There  are  large  salt  manufactories  in  the  vicinity. 
Population  near  2000. 

Malta,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.     Population  about  750. 

Newcastle,  3  miles  below,  east  bank  of  the  river,  in  Morgan  co. 

"Windsor,  7  miles  below,  west  bank  of  the  river,  in  Morgan  co. 

Big  Rock,  8  miles  below,  east  bank  of  the  river,  in  Morgan  co. 

Beverly,  10  miles  below,  on  the  east  bank,  in  Washington  co. 

Waterford,  nearly  opposite,  in  the  same  county. 

Lowell,  10  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river. 

Marietta  and  Harmer,  12  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  (^Sec  Ohio 
River.) 

,  THE    SCIOTO   RIVER 

Rises  in  Hardin  co.,  0.,and  flows  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  and  empties  into  the  Ohio 
river  at  Portsmouth.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  but  a  short  distance  from  its  mouth. 
Flat  boats,  in  high  stages  of  water,  are  brought  down  from  a  distance  of  l.'JO  miles.  Its  length 
is  160  miles,  and  it  is  150  yards  wide  at  the  mouth.  The  counties  through  which  the  river 
flows,  are  among  the  most  fertile  and  highly  cultivated  in  the  State  of  Ohio.  It  is  the  second 
river  in  size  which  lies  wholly  in  the  State. 

Columbus,  capital  of  the  State  of  Ohio,  and  county  seat  of  Franklin  co.,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Scioto  river,  90  miles  from  its  mouth.  The 
National  Road  passes  through  it  from  east  to  west.  The  Ohio  Canal,  also  has  a  branch 
extending  to  this  place  ;  and  it  is  the  center  of  Railroads  diverging  in  nearly  all  directions. 
(See  James'  Railroad  and  Route  Book.)  The  i^resent  site  of  the  city  was,  in  1812,  an 
unbroken  forest.  It  now  contains  a  population  of  about  25,000.  It  is  laid  out  regularly, 
with  wide  streets,  and  adorned  with  many  beautiful  buildings.  The  public  buildings  ara 
constructed  on  a  magnificent  scale,  and  do  honor  to  the  State.    They  are,  a  magnificent 


KENTUCKY  RIVER— WABA  SH  RIVER  .  125 

State-house,  a  Lunatic  Asylum,  an  Asylum  for  the  Blind,  one  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and 
the  Ohio  Penitentiary. 

Circleville,  county  seat  of  Pickaway  co.,  0.,  is  a  flouvishing  town,  situated 
on  the  Ohio  Canal  and  Scioto  river,  26  miles  south  of  Columbus.  The  Cincinnati,  Wilming- 
ton <fe  Zanesville  Railroad  passes  through  the  place.  The  town  is  built  on  the  site  of  an 
ancient  fortification,  and  was  laid  out  in  the  year  1810,  by  Daniel  Dresbach.  It  derived  its 
name  from  the  circular  form  of  one  of  the  ancient  ruins  which  were  found  here.  These  ruins 
have  long  since  disappeared  before  the  steady  march  of  improvement,  which  has  marked 
the  settlernent  of  our  western  country. 

Chillicothe,  county  seat  of  Ross  co.,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Scioto  river,  19 
miles  south  of  Circleville,  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance  in  the  State.  It  was  first 
laid  out  in  1T!)6.  In  18110,  the  seat  of  Government  was  removed  from  Cincinnati  to  it,  where 
it  remained  till  1816,  when  Columbus  was  made  the  permanent  capital.     Chillicothe  is  the 

Srincipal  point  of  trade  for  the  great  Scioto  valley.      Population   8000.     The  Cincinnati  ii 
[arietta  Railroad  passes  through  it ;  also  the  Ohio  Canal. 
Piketon,  capital  of  Pike  co.,  O.,  20  miles  below.  Population   about  750. 
Jasper  ,  2  miles  below,  in  the  same  county,  is  a  small  village. 
Lucasville,  Scioto  co.,  10  miles  below,  and  13  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 

Scioto  river. 

THE   KENTUCKY    RIVER 

Rises  in  the  Cumberland  mountains,  and  interlocks  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Licking 
and  Cumberland  rivers — length  about  200  miles.  It  is  navig.able  for  flat-boats  over  150  miles. 
To  Frankfort,  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  it  has  been  made  navigable  by  means  of  locks  and 
dams,  of  which  there  are  17,  built  at  a  cost  of  $2,300,000.  The  perpendicular  height  over- 
come by  these  locks,  is  210  feet. 

The  scenery  along  the  banks  of  the  Kentucky  river  is  not  surpassed  by  any  other  in  the 
Union,  unless  it  be  the  Hudson.  The  channel,  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course,  runs  through 
Oeds  of  solid  limestone  rock.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  there  are  many 
remains  of  ancient  works,  relics  of  a  race  whose  history  is  beyond  the  present  limits  of  human 
knowledge,  and  whose  deeds  are  buried  in  the  impenetrable  mysteries  of  the  past. 

Boonesboro,  in  Madison  co.,  Ky.,  on  the  Kentucky  river,  is  celebrated  in 
the  history  of  the  west  for  its  memorable  sieges  by  the  Indians.  A  fort  was  built  liere  by 
Daniel  Boone,  in  1775. 

Cogar's  Landing,  below  Boonesboro,  and  104  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river. — Monday's  Landing,  4  miles  below  Boonesboro. — Cumming's  Landing,  4  miles  below 
Monday's  Landing. 

Oregon,  10  miles  below,  in  Mercer  co.,  is  a  flourishing  village.  This  is  the 
landing  place  for  Harrodsburg  Springs,  situated  about  8  miles  from  the  river.  Harrodsburg 
is  the  capital  of  Mercer  co.  Population  about  3000. — McGoivan's  Landing,  3  miles  below 
Oregon. —  Wiison's  Landing,  4  miles  below. — Sherlock's  Landing,  4  miles  below. —  Woodford 
Landing,  4  miles  below. 

Frankfort,  12  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Ky.,  and  county 

seat  of  Franklin  co.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  plain,  surrounded  by  precipitous  hills.  It 
was  laid  out  in  1773,  and  made  the  seat  of  government  in  1792.  The  State-house  is  a  hand- 
some edifice,  built  of  Kentucky  marble,  quarried  in  the  vicinity.  Frankfort  contains  the 
State  Penitentiary,  a  fine  court  house,  2  banks,  7  printing  offices,  4  or  5  churches,  3  bagging 
factories,  and  a  population  of  about  5000.  The  Lexington  <fe  Louisville  Railroad  passes 
through  Frankfort,  and  a  bridge  connects  it  with  South  Frankfort. — Flat  Creek  Landing  is 
15  miles  below. 

Monterey,  Owenco.,  3  miles  below  Flat  Creek  Landing,  is  a  flourishing  village. 

Owcnton's  Landing,  5  miles  below. 

Lockport,  Henry  co.,  6  miles  below  Owenton.    Gratz,  3  miles  below  Lockport. 
Drennon's  Springs,  Henry  co.,  8  miles  below,  and  1  mile  from  the  river, 

is  a  fashionable  watering  place. — Springport,  I  mile  below. 

Marion,  4  miles  below  Springport,  in  Owen  co.  Law's  Landing,  3  miles 
below. —  Worthsville,  4  miles  below. 

Carrollton,  8  miles  below,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ky.  river,  (^See  Ohio 
river.) 

THE   WABASH   RIVER 

Rises  in  Mercer  co.,  0.,  near  the  western  boundary  of  the  State,  and  flows  first  north-west 
and  then  in  a  general  southerly  direction  through  a  portion  of  the  State  of  Indiana 
and  forms,  for  a  distance  of  nearly  200  miles,  the  boundary  between  Indiana  and  Illinois, 
and  empties  into  the  Ohio  142  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  latter.    It  is  navigable  for  flat- 


126  THE    WABASH   RIVER. 

boats  about  400  miles,  and  in  time  of  high  -veater  steamboats  ascend  as  far  as  Lafayette.  The 
total  length  of  the  Wabash  is  estimated  at  550  miles.  Bituminous  coal  is  found  along  its 
course,  almost  everywhere  below  Lafayette.  It  receives,  in  its  course,  the  waters  of  many 
respectable  tributaries,  among  the  most  important  is  WHITE  RIVER,  which  passes  through 
the  State  from  cast  to  west,  and  waters  a  great  extent  of  fertile  and  well  settled  country.  Per- 
haps no  river  in  tlie  world,  of  its  magnitude,  drains  a  more  extensive  and  fertile  country  than 
the  Wabash  and  its  tributaries.  It  forms  the  heart  of  the  State  of  Indiana.  The  following 
places  are  located  on  or  near  the  banks  of  the  Wabash,  commencing  near  its  source  :  Alex- 
ander, Adams  co.,  la.;  Newoille,  Bluffton,  and  Lancaster,  Wells  co.,  la.;  Tracy,  Mt.  Etna,  and 
Huntington,  Huntington  co.,  la.;  Vtica,  La  Oros  and  Wabanh,  Wabash  co.,  la.;  Peru,  Miami 
CO.,  la;  Lewisburg,  Circlcville,  Logansport,  and  Anistirdam,  Cass  co.,  la.;  Lnckport,  Burnetts- 
ville,  Tiptonsport,  Carrollton,  Paragon,  Delphi,  West  Delphi,  and  Pittsburg,  Carroll  co.,  la.; 
Americus,  Tippecanoe  co. 

Lafayette,  county  seat  of  Tippecanoe  co.,  Ta.,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Wabash  river,  378  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  was  laid  out  in  1825,  on  land  bought  at  govern- 
ment prices.  Its  progress  lias  been  steady  and  rapid,  and  it  is  now  among  the  iirst  towns 
in  the  State  in  population  and  commercial  importance.  The  Wabash  &  Erie  Canal  passes 
througli  this  place,  bringing  it  in  connection  with  Lake  Erie.  Lafayette  contains  a  fine 
court-iiouse,  jail,  and  public  iiflices,  8  or  10  churclies,  4  printing  offlces,  a  county  seminary, 
2  paper  mills,  and  several  pork-packing  establisliments.  Population  about  10,000.  It  is  in 
direct  communication  by  Railroads  with  Indianajxilis,  Chicago,  and  New  Albany.  Au 
immense  amount  of  produce  is  forwarded  from  this  place,  via  canal  and  railroads. 

Wheaton,  9  miles  below,  in  same  county,  is  a  small  village. 

La  Grange,  3  miles  below,  in  same  co. — Maysville  5  miles  below,  in  Fountain 
CO.,  la. — Independence,  Warren  co.,  1  mile  below. 

Attica,  Fountain  CO.,  la.,  8  miles  below  Independence,  is  a  flourishing  place, 
surrounded  by  splendid  forests  and  beautiful  prairies,  with  a  soil  of  great  fertility.  A  largo 
and  increasing  trade  is  centered  here.     Population  about  1800. 

Williamsport,  2  miles  below,  county  seat  of  Warren  co.,  la.,  is  a  thriving 
town,  with  an  active  trade.  Portland,  Fountain  co.,  la.,  Smiles  below  ;  Baltimore,  6  miles 
below,  in  Warren  co.,  la. 

Covington,  4  miles  below  is  the  capital  of  Fountain  co.,  la.  It  is  a  ship- 
ping point  for  large  c{uantities  of  grain.  Stone  coal  and  iron  are  found  in  abundance  in  the 
vicinity.     Population  about  1800. 

Perryville,  Vermilion  co.,  la.,  9  miles  below,  is  finely  located,  and  has  a 
large  and  active  trade.     Population  1100. 

Vermilion  River,  empties  into  the  Waba.sh  10  miles  below  Perryville.  It 
takes  its  rise  in  Illinois,  and  is  navigable  for  about  yO  miles,  to  Danville,  111.,  during  high 
water. — Lodiville,  2  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Vermilion  river,  in  Parke  co.,  la. 

Newport,  7  miles  below  Lodiville,  and  1  mile  from  the  Wabash,  on  Little 
Vermilion  river,  is  the  capital  of  Vermilion  co.,  la.     Population  600. 

Montezuma,  6  miles  below,  in  Parke  co.,  la.,  is  an  active  village.  Popula- 
tion about  500. — Annieshurg,  2  miles  below,  in  the  same  county. 

Clinton,  10  miles  below,  in  Vermilion  co.  Population  about  550.  Large 
quantities  of  produce  are  shipped  from  Clinton. — Nuina,  2  miles  below,  in  Parke  co. — 
Harrison,  14  miles  below,  in  Vigo  co. 

Terre  Haute, 4  njiles  below  Harrison,  is  the  capital  of  Vigo  co.,  la.  It  is 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Wabash,  also  on  the  National  Road,  and  the  Wabash  & 
Erie  Canal.  It  was  laid  out  in  1816.  It  is  a  center  of  railway  communication  ;  one  to 
Indianapolis,  one  to  Springfield  and  Alton  111.,  and  one  to  Evansville,  la.,  connecting  with 
the  Oliio  and  Mississippi  R.  R.,  to  Cincinnati  and  St.  Louis,  at  Vincennes.  Also,  one  to 
Crawfordsville,  intersecting  the  New  Albany  <t  Salem  R.  R.  to  Michigan  Citv.  Terre 
Haute  is  beautifully  situated  on  ahigh  bank  of  the  Wabash,  and  is  the  center  of  a  large  and 
increasing  trade.  Large  quantities  of  f^our,  pork,  and  grain,  are  shipped  by  the  canal  and 
river,  also  by  the  railroads.  The  town  contains  6  printing  offices,  10  or  12  churches,  3 
banks,  a  court-house,  a  town  hall,  and  a  large  academy.     Population  about  8000. 

Darwin,  25  miles  below,  is  the  capital  of  Clarke  co.,  111.  It  is  a  thriving 
village. —  Yorke,  16  miles  below,  in  Crawford  co..  111. — Hudsonville,  9  miles  below,  in  Crawford 
CO. — Jlferom,  Sullivan  co.,  b  miles  below. — RussellvUle,  25  miles  below,  in  Lawrence  co.   111. 

Vincennes,  county  seat  of  Knox  co.,  la.,  18  miles  below  Russellville.  This 
place  derives  a  great  interest  in  the  history  of  the  West,  from  the  fact  of  its  being  one  of 
the  first  settlements  formed  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  It  was  first  occupied  by  th« 
French  settlers,  as  a  military  post,  in  1735,  and  called  Post  St.  Vincent.  In  the  year  1749,  the 
Dame  of  Vincennes  was  given  to  it,  in  honor  of  F.  M.  Da  Vi>ckkne,  a  gallant  and  much 


CUMBERLAND    RIVER— TENNESSEE   RIVER.  127 

respected  French  officer,  -who  fell  in  battle  with  the  Chiokasaws.  in  1736.  A  largo  and 
beautiful  prairie  is  in  the  vicinity,  the  soil  of  which  is  very  productive.  The  seat  of  the 
territorial  government  was  here  until  1813. 

Vincennes  contains  a  large,  commodious  city-hall,  court-house,  jail,  and  county  offices, 
6  or  8  churches,  among  theni  a  fine  cathedral,  St.Gabkikl  College,  a  theological  seminary, 
several  manufactories,  and  a  population  of  2500. 

The  Ohio  &,  Mississippi  R.  R.,  connecting  Cincinnati  with  St.  Louis,  and  Evansville  A 
Vincennes,  connecting  with  the  Tcrre  Haute  cfe  Vincennes  road  to  Cliicago,  cross  each  other 
here,  thus  opening  through  this  city  an  outlet  north,  south,  east,  and  west. 

Mount  Carmel,  36  miles  below,  capital  of  Wabush  c.o.,  111.,  io  bcautifullj 
situated,  and  a  very  thriving  business  place.     Population  abt)ut  1600. 

Graysville,  45  miles  bolow.  in  White  co.,  111.,  is  a  flourishing  village,  with 
an  active  trade.     Population  about  650. — Niw  Baltimore,  9  miles  below,  in  Posey  co.,  la. 

New  Harmony,  la.,  G  miles  below,  New  Baltimore,  and  IG  miles  from  the 
nearest  point  of  the  Ohio,  though  about  60  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash,  following 
the  meanders  of  the  river.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  line,  ricli,  and  heavily  timbered  country, 
interspersed  with  small,  rich  prairies.  It  was  first  settletl  in  1814.  by  a  religious  sect  of 
Germans,  called  Harmonites,  under  the  guidance  and  control  of  George  Rapp,  in  who.se 
name  all  the  lands  and  property  were  held.  They  erected  about  200  substantial  buildings, 
planted  vineyards  and  orchards,  built  mills  and  manufactories,  anil  were  wonderfully  suc- 
cessful in  converting  a  wilderness  into  a  tinelv  cultivated  plantation  in  a  sliort  time.  They 
had  even  the  luxury  of  a  botanic  garden,  and  a  green-liouse.  Their  groat  house  of  assem- 
blage, with  its  wings  and  appendages,  was  nearly  100  feet  square.  In  1^24,  the  celebrated 
Robert  Owen,  of  New  Lanark,  Scotland,  purchased  the  entire  possession  of  the  Harmonites, 
at  $190,000,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  a  communit_v  upon  the  plan  of  his  "social 
system."  The  plan  proved  a  failure,  and  was  finally  abandoned,  A  plank  road  extends 
from    New  Harmony  to    Mt.  Vernon.     The  Population  of  New  Harmony  is  now  about  500. 

Chainville,  20  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  and  40  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Wabash. 

THE   CUMBERLAND   RIVER 

Rises  in  the  Cumberland  mountains,  and  interlocks  with  the  liead  waters  of  Clinch  and 
Kentucky  rivers  ;  flows  southwesterly  through  Ky.,  more  than  250  miles  ;  enters  the  State 
of  Teun.,  and  after  a  further  meandering  course  of  about  130  miles  it  readies  Nashville  in 
Lat.  nearly  35  N.  Thence  flowing  north-westerly  203  miles,  it  empties  into  the  Ohio  at 
Smithland.  The  Cumberland,  the  second  largest  "tributary  of  tlie  Ohio,  is  about  GOO  miles 
in  length,  and  drains  a  territory  estimated  at  18,000  square  miles.  It  is  navigable  about 
6  months  in  the  year  for  steamboats  as  far  as  Nashville,  and  for  flat  and  keel-boats  some 
300  ruiles  further.  This  river  passes  through  a  country  of  remarkable  fertility,  some 
portions  of  it  rich  in  iron  ore,  and,  no  doubt,  otlier  valuable  minerals. 

The  followitig  towns  are  located  on  and  near  the  banks  of  the  Cumberland. 

Mt.  Z'/ca.5aH<,  Harlan  co.,  Kv. — Barboursmlle,  Knox  co.,  Ky — WUliamshuri),  Whitley  co.,  Ky. 
(About  12  mile^  below  this  point  the  river  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of  60  feet,  which  presents 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  scenes  in  the  Slate.) — CrefLsburg,  Russel  co.,  Ky. — BurksmUe, 
Cumberland  co.,  Ky. — Celino,  Mei/smllc,  Gaitiesburo,  and  Granville,  Jack-on'  co.,  Tenn. — 
Carthage,  Smith  CO.,  Tenn. — Cairn,  Sumner  co.,  Tenn. — Lockpnrt  and  Rivrs,  Wilson  co.,  Tenn. 

Nashville,  capital  of  the  State  of  Tennessee,  and  seat  of  justice  for  Davidson 
CO.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Cumberland  river,  203  miles  from  its  month.  The  city 
stands  on  a  solid  rock,  elevated  to  the  Iieightof  from  50  to  175  feet  above  the  level  of  llie  river. 
The  commerce  of  Nashville  is  very  extensive,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  principal 
article  of  export  is  cotton,  of  which  large  quantities  are  shipped  to  the  southern  markets. 
There  are  some  fine  public  buildings  and  institutions  of  note  in  Nashville,  among  which, 
are  the  State-house,  Penitentiary,  Hospital  for  Lunatics,  the  Nashville  University,  a  female 
Beminary,  several  schools,  and  a  large  number  of  churclies  for  tlie  various  denominations. 
The  University  was  founded  in  1806.     The  library  contains  12,000  volumes. 

Besides  the  buildings  mentioned,  Nashville  contains  several  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, a  large  number  of  wholesale  and  retail  stores  of  all  kinds,  and  a  population  of  about 
20,000.  The  terminus  of  the  Nashville  &  Chattanooga  Railroad  is  here  ;  and  railroads  to 
other  important  points  are  constructing. 

•Clarksville,  Montgomery  co.,  Tenn.,  55  miles  below  Nashville,  is  a  thriving 
place,  and  has  considerable  trade.     Population  about  3000. 

Palmyra,  15  miles  below,  in  same  co.,  is  a  small  village. 

Dover,  oO  miles  below,  capital  of  Stewart  co.,  Tenn. 

Tobaccoport,  a  small  village,  15  miles  below,  in  same  county. 

Canton,  16  miles  below,  in  Trigg  co.,  Ky.     Population  about  300. 

Rockcastle,  a  small  village,  5  miles  below,  in  same  county. 

Eddyville,  17  miles  below,  (and  60  miles  above  Smithland,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Cumberland,)  in  Caldwell  co.,  Ky.,  is  a  thriving  village.     Population  about  700. 


128  THE    TENNESSEE   RIVER. 

THE   TENNESSEE   RIVER, 

The  largest  tributary  of  the  Ohio,  and  one  of  the  largest  rivers  east  of  the  Mississippi,  ia 
formed  by  tlie  union  of  the  Clinch  and  Holston  rivers,  which  rise  in  the  Alleghany  moun- 
tains of  Virginia,  and  unite  at  Kingston,  Tenn.  It  tlien  takes  a  south-west  course,  travers- 
ing the  nortliern  part  of  Alabama,  and  then  changing,  flows  in  a  northerly  direction  through 
Tennessee  and  Kentucky,  and  enters  tlie  Ohio  at  Paducah,  in  Latitude  37  north.  The  total 
length  of  this  river  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Clinch  and  Holston,  is  about  1200  miles  ; 
being  longer  than  the  Ohio  from  Pittsburg  to  the  moutli.  The  obstructions  to  navigation 
are  few,  and  could  easily  be  remedied.  '1  he  first  obstruction  is  the  muscle  shoals  at  Flor- 
ence, Ala  ,  about  280  miles  from  tlie  month.  Up  to  this  point,  steamboats  can  ascend  at  al- 
most any  season  of  the  year.  Above  tiiese  shoals  the  navigation  is  entirely  unobstructed  for 
the  distance  of  nearly  TiOO  miles. 

Tlie  country  through  which  the  Tennessee  flows,  is  mostly  fertile,  but  is  thinly  inhabited. 
On  the  upper  part  of  its  course,  it  has  mucli  beautiful  mountain  and  valley  scenery.  The 
area  drained  by  this  river  and  tributaries  is  estimated  at  upwaid  of  4O,0OO  square  miles. 
The  following  towns  are  situated  on  or  near  its  banks. 

Knoxville,  on  the  Holston  river,  county  scat  of  Knox  co.,  ea.st  Tenn.,  is  a 
flourishing  city.  The  situation  is  beautiful,  elevated,  and  healthy,  with  a  fine  view  of  the 
surrounding  country,  and  the  mountainsSn  the  distance.  Knoxville  has  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments of  various  kinds,  among  the  most  important  is  that  of  Window  Glass,  which  ia 
carried  on  extensively.  It  is,  also,  an  important  railroad  center.  It  was  laid  out  in  1794,  and 
was  the  State  capital  till  1817.     Population  about  6000. 

Louisville,  is  a  flourishing  place,  in  Blount  co.,  Tenn.,  about  20  miles  by 
land,  below  Knoxville. 

Kingston,  county  seat  of  Roane  co.,  Tenn.,  at  the  junction  of  the  Holston  and 

Clinch  rivers,  is  a  town  of  considerable;  business. 

Washington,  county  seat  of  Rhea  co.,  Tenn. 

Harrison,  county  seat  of   Hamilton  co.,  Tenn.     Iron  and  stone  coal  aro 

fcbundant  near  this  place.     Population  about  500. 

Chattanooga,  about  250  miles  below  Knoxville,  in  Hamilton  co.,  Tenn.,  is 
a  flourisliing  town.  The  terminus  of  the  Chattonooga  Railroad  is  here.  Stone  coal  and  iron 
ore  abound  in  the  vicinity.  Manufacturing  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  it  is 
an  important  shipping  point.     Population  about  4000. 

Whitesburg,  is  a  small  village  of  Madison  co.,  Ala. 

T  r  i  a  n  a ,  a  small  place,  in  same  county. 

Decatur,  Morgan  co.,  Ala.,  is  a  thriving  town,  and  is  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  Tuscumbiatfe  Decatur  Railroad. 

Muscle  Shoals,  a  name  given  to  the  rapids  in  the  Tenn.  river,  dividing  the 
counties  of  Lauderdale  and  Lawrence,  Ala.  These  rapids  extend  20  miles,  the  fall  being,  in 
that  distance,  about  100  feet,  and  an  impassable  obstruction  to  navigation,  except  during  the 
highest  stages  of  water. 

Florence,  county  seat  of  Lauderdale  co.,  Ala.,  is  at  the  head  of  navigation 
below  the  rapids,  and  280  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tennessee.  This  is  the  principal  ship- 
ping point  for  the  produce  of  the  surrounding  country,  with  which  it  has  a  large  and  in- 
creasing trade.  A  fine  bridge  crosses  the  river  here.  There  are  several  large  cotton  factories 
at  and  near  Florence.     Population  about  2500. 

Tuscumbia,  Franklin  co.,  Ala.,  is  1  mile  south  of  the  river,  and  is  the 
■western  terminus  of  the  Tuscumbia  &  Decatur  Railroad.  Population  about  2000.  At 
Tuscumbia  there  is  a  very  remarkable  spring,  which  flows  from  a  fissure  in  a  limestone  rock, 
and  which  is  said  to  discharge  20,000  cubic  ifeet  of  water  per  minute. 

Newport,  a  small  place,  in  same  county. 

Chickasaw,  a  thriving  village,  in  same  county. 
^    Waterloo,  Lauderdale  co.,  Ala.,  ia  a  small  village,  about  30   miles  below 
Florence. 

Savannah,  capital  of  Hardin  co.,  Tenn.,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business, 

35  miles  below.     Population  about  1000. 

Carrollville,35  miles  below,  is  a  small  village  in  Wayne  co.,  Tenn. 

Sharonsville,  a  village  in  Perry  co.,  Tenn. 

Perry ville,  in  same  co.,  20  miles  below  Carrollville.     A  large  quantity  of 

cotton  is  annually  shipped  from  this  point.     Population  about  300. 

Reynoldsburg,  50  miles  below,  in  Humphreys  oo.,  Tenn.,  110  miles  above 
the  moulli  of  the  Tennessee  river. 

THE   END. 


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